Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F350 - Missing After Start Up - High Idle - Got Codes P1316 / P1211?
Jul 18, 2015
Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.
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Recently I have had many problems with my 2000 7.3l .... The one I cant get rid of is the p1316 code. I have changed out the uvc harness and gasket with new ones, then removed valve cover's to double check connections again and they are fine. I am getting white smoke and the truck misses. I do not have a advanced reader for the codes just using my edge programmer. I have also disconnected the battery and cleared the code but it comes right back.
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Started my truck yesterday and drove about 1/4 of mile and all of a sudden I lost all power but was lucky enough to creep back home. Had a friend put it on a scanner and it spit out P1280 and P1316 codes. My truck will start and idle rough but has no throttle response and no power. I changed out the CPS and ICP and the problem still exists. I got an infrared thermometer and checked the heat coming off each manifold and the driver side was reading about 200 while the passenger side was reading about 75 while at idle. Pulled valve pan cover off the passenger side to check and see if the harness came loose and everything looked fine. So my question is do you think this could lead to a bad IDM?
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Just a heads up when it comes to this code. Today at work I was working on a 2000 f350 that the driver neglected on telling me he had a CEL on and truck was kind of sluggish (drivers are idiots they cant tell the difference) but no miss or any sign of problem except the CEL (he had electrical tape on the cluster. Well I put my AE to see the vitals and immediately code p1316, so I went to do a buzz test revealing that cylinder 1,3,5,7,6 were short to open circuit (forgot the codes) but they all sounded healthy. My next step since it was a quick and easy to do was to check the passenger side uvch to see for burnt pins and what not but everything checked out.
Checked the driver side #6 cyl for the same problem bit a no go. I ohm tested the injectors all of them checked out, wires all the way to the idm checked out so at this point I was in my atemp to see what the hell was going on I decided to install my obs idm on, and guess what happened next it worked immediately the sel did not come up and when I test drove it, my god it felt like a new truck.
Just a side note the idm, had no sign of water damage, and like mentioned to the untrained person most would not tell the difference on how it ran. To anybody that has checked and can't find the problem make sure you really and I mean really check your IDM really good.
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I've been battling this truck for over a month now and starting to go a little crazy, It's a 2001 f350 7.3L, with a "used" 7.3L engine from a 1997. Transferred all the necessary parts to make it happen. Keep getting the evil p1316 idm codes detected coming back upon start up. Anywhere between 5-30seconds after starting the left bank dies. I've gone threw and replaced the IDM with a reman unit. New valve cover gaskets (with new harness). even went the extra mile and put in a new power wire (for the driver side) running directly from the new valve cover into the IDM bypassing a connector above the left valve cover. All injectors are checking out around 3ohms. With glow plugs all around 1-2ohms. What's interesting about this is, I can disable any one of the injectors on the left bank (doesn't matter which one) and the engine runs great considering it's down on one cylinder. But when I hook up that last injector it will kill the whole left bank again.
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OK, truck is 2000 F350. I am heading on a 2000 mile roadtrip to Yellowstone for my wife's 40th birthday in two days. What was our rock of a vehicle is now causing me severe anxiety.
Over the last few days the truck has been difficult to start - almost stops turning over as if the batteries were low. So I ignored it because if I plug it in, it starts fine and if I drive it and it gets hot - it starts fine.
Tonight while driving - I noticed a high idle and then it went to normal - I thought it was weird and a few miles later at a stop sign it struggled at idle, sort of loping but not romping very high and the over drive light started blinking. When I got home when I went from drive to neutral it goes to high idle and then the overdrive light blinks. The first time it blinked it went off when I pressed the OD button - but now it continues to blink.
Would low batteries be the root cause of this? I will continue my search for blinking OD light but I thought I would get this in the queue in case this is bigger than I can handle. I have 48 hours to resolve this issue - leaving Wednesday early morning.
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I had a p1211 code when I first got Torque Pro hooked up. I figured it was just because I'd done a couple WOT runs and the HPOP just can't quite keep up with the injectors. I was told this might happen when I ordered the injectors from Gear head. I also noticed that my ICP peaked at around 3600 during one of these runs. I don't have it logged, but I'm certain it was up that high.
The code hasn't returned, but I haven't been running it too hard either. I don't quite know what to make of the ICPs actually being that high. From looking at a bunch of Rich's graphs his doesn't really get past 2800 or 2900. Is this an incorrect reading? Do I need to worry about anything?
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I have a 2003 F250CC 7.3 with 200,000 miles on it. I just purchased this truck about a month ago. My question is it blows black smoke. A little at idle but mostly when you give it any pedal. I have replaced all of the injector o rings and that didn't make a difference. Then I had it tested and it failed a CCT test on #2 cylinder. I have an injector to put in it, but am curious to find out if 1 bad injector would be enough to make it smoke all the time. I keep getting P1211 ICP pressure above desired. I had a friend of mine who used to work at a ford garage take a look at it with his computer and he said that everything looks good other than the CCT test.
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My truck was shuddering in od. So as I last effort thinking it might be injectors I pulled all of them and replaced all of the orings and valve cover harnesses. After all of this was done seemed to do nothing at all. Now a new problem has surfaced. It's having idle problems. It will now idle at 780-850 instead of 650-700rmps. Also on deceleration it will miss pretty bad. Checked all of my injectors again all connections are good and all of the injectors are tight. Not burning any oil. So I unplugged the icp and bam runs like a top perfect running engine. So I bought a new one and plugged it in and itake doing the same thing. So what is going on! Also it was throwing a random check engine light but wouldn't bring a code up I'm completely lost....
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Lately I have been having problems loosing power. Truck wants to miss mostly going up hill and runs sluggish I'll pull off the road and let it idle for a minute and it will run fine. And it is only occasionally some days it don't happen at all and other days it happens quit often. New fuel filter, oil is good, had it on the scanner and isn't throwing any codes. Around 230k miles newer injectors.
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I have a 2000 Ford F550 7.3. I bought a Superchips programmer to read the codes on my truck and up pops this P1316, so I did some research and found out that the most common problem is the injector wiring harness. I bought new valve cover gaskets and the injector wiring as well because the truck is old and I figured new wires wouldn't hurt.
So after installing the new wiring harness and gaskets I'm still getting this Code! The truck idles rough and serge's sometimes, also there is a lack of power and some shaking between 40 and 50 miles per hour, however form 50 to 60 MPH seem's to be just fine. I don't trust the "Mechanic Shops" around here and will only take the truck in as a last resort.
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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 CC 7.3L 323,000 miles auto trans. I have removed my tuner just to make sure that it was not the issue. The truck will run fine then all of a sudden the idle will rise then fall or shudder or go up and down and sometimes it will just Die but it always restarts. No trouble lights at all. I am not sure what is causing the issue?
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I have a 2000 Ford F350 7.3 with the auto and 262,000 miles on it. As far as I know everything is stock on this truck. It has been a great truck but lately its been making a strange noise. It almost sounds like an exhaust rattle or vibration but it is intermittent. Its not really loud it can be heard best in the cab at idle. I've looked all over on the truck and haven't found anything. I can't pinpoint where it is coming from. I tried starting the truck with the serpentine belt off no change.
I took the inspection plate off the bell housing and couldn't see any cracks the torque converter bolts appear tight, and the starter is not engaged while running. I've read a few forums on the torque converter going bad. It looks to me like its more the 99 trucks that had trouble with that. Did the torque converter issue carry over to the 2000's? Would a torque converter/transmission problem be intermittent?
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 ... A couple weeks ago I noticed that it was taking longer to start then it should be. Now I have to cycle the key switch 3 or 4 time to get it to start. There is a clicking coming from the relay block under the radio. Sometimes the truck will start sometimes it has to be rolled off. I have recently replace the starter and alternator. I have had the batteries tested and they are good. I replaced the two small relays in the block under the radio, one is for the fuel pump and the other I understand is for the door locks? I also read on here the large blue one is for the turn signal so I have not changed that one. After all this I still have the same problems.
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Here's the deal. 99 Powerstroke out new injectors and orings. Did orings twice to make sure i didn't damage it. New turbo, new utvc gasket, new ipr, new fuel pump, I new complete engine wire harness. I pulled the injectors and ran in another truck no problem. New injector cups compression was all in the 300-375 range. Any cold start smokes like hell. Goes away when driving after the first time of hitting boost. Spits and shudders for a few seconds until boosting. Every time I stop it starts smoking again at idle. No power loss not using oil. Can't get a grasp on this smoking issue. When cold start I kill millions of mosquitos in a one-mile radius.
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The night temperture was only about 37 degrees. But every morning my 2000 F-350 7.3 crew cab 188,000 on it would not start. The first try there would be a split second where the motor would fire, but that would be it. I had to plug the engine block heater into my generator for at least an hour before it would start. I don't see how all the glow plugs could be bad at once??
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I got a friend of mine that owns a 2000 F350 7.3 with around 280,000 miles. He said that the past 2 days its been turning over longer then normal before it fires. Once started, engine runs same as it always has. No sputtering or hesitations, idles fine, etc. However today, he drove to work, shut it off, then went to start it back up 10 or so mins later and now it will only turn over. Said he's getting fuel and compression is good. Unfortunately i dont know much about Diesel engines.
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I ran out and test drove a new to me 2001 F350 7.3L tonight. Everything seemed good, until I got back from the test drive. I pulled in and was sitting there with it idling. It seemed to idle fine, then a very small miss and very small shimmy then idle fine again; then another small miss and another shimmy. It continued like clockwork. Every time it seemed to miss and shimmy, the RPM would drop just a little, but not much. Does an ICP sensor sound like the problem, or maybe something more serious? 2001 F350 7.3L with 235,733 miles new trans, turbo replaced at 150,000 something miles. No blow by. Idled fine before driving, also drove fine. It doesn't seem to surge when idling, just kind stalls and shimmys for a split second then idles fine for a few seconds.
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I have looked through a ton of threads to see if I can find one similar to my problem but have not. I have stock setup but had a dealer installed anti-theft device. The first time it would not crank, it was like the the anti-theft plug was missing so I checked out the key, tried the spare and finally removed it all together. I checked all the fuses and swapped the Starter relay for another of the same part number.
I later sifted it into neutral assuming it was the P/N Switch and it started. This continued intermittent for several days but then Neutral wouldn't work. I got under the truck and pushed on the actuator rod for the transmission and it started again for a few days. If finally failed again and I had time to buy a replacement switch.
Once installed I verified I had back up lights in reverse but still no crank. I have since pulled off the starter and had it verified as good. Is there more to setting/adjusting the neutral switch or is there something I am missing before I tow it in?
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Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
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My wife returned home and stated that my excursion stopped running twice while she was driving it. She said both times were as she was letting off the throttle coming downhill an off ramp. Both times it fired right up and drove away fine.
I pulled the codes using torque app and it showed a p1211. Unfortunately I had just screwed up my gauge settings so I really didn't have any gauges set up so I couldn't use it. (It's for the 6.0 anyway).
After some Internet searching I am guessing it's an issue with the icp or ipr. How do I tell which one to replace? Truck does have a dp tuner normally set to 80 economy tune.
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