Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F350 - Crank But No Start
Jul 3, 2017
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 ... A couple weeks ago I noticed that it was taking longer to start then it should be. Now I have to cycle the key switch 3 or 4 time to get it to start. There is a clicking coming from the relay block under the radio. Sometimes the truck will start sometimes it has to be rolled off. I have recently replace the starter and alternator. I have had the batteries tested and they are good. I replaced the two small relays in the block under the radio, one is for the fuel pump and the other I understand is for the door locks? I also read on here the large blue one is for the turn signal so I have not changed that one. After all this I still have the same problems.
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I've replaced the alternator and starter recently and both batteries and the truck ran fine befor that. But it sat for roughly 2 months and now it seems as if its not getting fuel. Will start with a shot of ether but will die as soon at it burns it off
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New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
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I just started having an issue on my 01 7.3 f350 with 203k miles, it will crank much longer then normal to start. If you shut it off then try to restart right away it starts normal, if you wait 10 minutes long crank again. if you shut it off and turn key back on but don't start it you can wait an hour then start right away. IDM bad? Vacation in 2 weeks and I would like to get this fixed first.
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I got a 2000 7.3l with 400,000 miles on it that decided to just not start anymore after I parked it for a couple days. Its always been a hard starter due to needing glow plugs but I can deal with that. it doesn't even try to fire anymore. I replaced the CPS (my tack bounces when cranking). The ICP has oil in the plug so I just unplugged it for now till I replace it.
I pulled the IPR and cleaned it really good and bench tested it with 12 volts and could here it clicking so I put it back in. I can get under the drivers door with the key on and hear the fuel pump running. I gain oil pressure on my dash gauge when cranking. I check all my fuses. my WTS light comes on . I just don't have any fancy scan tools to make this easier. Also just cause I was feeling lucky I just went out and bought 2 new batteries for it yesterday so we are good there.
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Found icp sensor with oil in plug and codes p1211 and p1212. Icp sensor reading 0 pressure. Changed out icp sensor. Still cranks no start check oil level in hpop resverior, check with brake clean spray nozzle and no oil on it. Filled resverior with oil. She tried to start. Had to put the charger on her and she finally lite off and came to life. Questions, how would that resverior empty out? Was it because I pulled that sensor? Is there s check valve in that resverior hanging up?
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The night temperture was only about 37 degrees. But every morning my 2000 F-350 7.3 crew cab 188,000 on it would not start. The first try there would be a split second where the motor would fire, but that would be it. I had to plug the engine block heater into my generator for at least an hour before it would start. I don't see how all the glow plugs could be bad at once??
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I got a friend of mine that owns a 2000 F350 7.3 with around 280,000 miles. He said that the past 2 days its been turning over longer then normal before it fires. Once started, engine runs same as it always has. No sputtering or hesitations, idles fine, etc. However today, he drove to work, shut it off, then went to start it back up 10 or so mins later and now it will only turn over. Said he's getting fuel and compression is good. Unfortunately i dont know much about Diesel engines.
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Well, long story is that I starting have problems with my 2000 F350 Dually 7.3 PSD about 6 months ago ( ~10K miles ago ). I have sunk almost 5K$ in mechanics and the problem is still present.
By troubleshoot, I do not mean try this, try this, as that has been what is happening. I mean making test measurements and diagnostics. I am fairly mechanically inclined, but I am no mechanic. Looking for primers on how the 7.3 PSD works.
Symptoms: After the truck sits 12 to 14 hours, it starts and idles fine ( ~ 700 RPM on the 'Dash Tach' ) just as it has always done. During the first 5 miles of driving it, the SES light comes on and it sputters, stalls, and vibrates as if a couple of the injectors are not firing. It then clears up and the SES light goes out, except that it idles at about 1200 RPM ( 'Dash Tach' ).
It runs fine like this the rest of the day, If I shut it down it will start right up and run fine, but it has the high idles. Only if it is shut down longer than 12 to 16 hours do the symptoms, other than the high idle, reappear. The high idle is constant. Also mpg have fallen ( 13 opposed to 16 ).
It does not seem to be related to ambient temperature, or the amount of warm-up idle. I have idled it for three hours on startup and it is fine, until I drive the first 5 miles or so.
Now, I have had three mechanics work on it and they have replaced: the ICP sensor ( 3 times ), the Fuel filter ( twice ), drained, flushed and refilled the HPOP, replaced both sides of the valve cover wiring harness, put in a new IDM, fuel heater, CPS sensor ( 3 times ), fuel pump in fuel tank, EBPV ( not sure what this is ), and the last straw was saying the injectors needed to be replaced ( or at least the O-rings, but while we are in there you might as well ... ).
I bought a cheap code reader and it says: P1316 & P1211. I believe these are the same codes since day 1.
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I have a 99 f350 Ford 7.3 service truck. It will crank and run but when it gets to 150 or 180 degrees it shuts off and will not crank back until it cools off. I have change the ECM I have change the IDM still same thing it runs till gets hot and then it cuts off. I have changed IPR valve IPC sensor .check the high pressure oil pressure it is around 800 900 at an idle it is around that pressure but when first starts up it is higher once it starts and runs it idles around that pressure 800 900 psi....
I have hooked up my scanner and it shows around 150 degrees oil temperature it shuts off . The high pressure oil stays the same as it was when you first crank it the low pressure crankcase oil is 60 psi ... Once the oil temperature reaches around 150 ~160 degrees the engine will shut off . Once you let it sit overnight or for several hours it might crank up ....
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I have looked through a ton of threads to see if I can find one similar to my problem but have not. I have stock setup but had a dealer installed anti-theft device. The first time it would not crank, it was like the the anti-theft plug was missing so I checked out the key, tried the spare and finally removed it all together. I checked all the fuses and swapped the Starter relay for another of the same part number.
I later sifted it into neutral assuming it was the P/N Switch and it started. This continued intermittent for several days but then Neutral wouldn't work. I got under the truck and pushed on the actuator rod for the transmission and it started again for a few days. If finally failed again and I had time to buy a replacement switch.
Once installed I verified I had back up lights in reverse but still no crank. I have since pulled off the starter and had it verified as good. Is there more to setting/adjusting the neutral switch or is there something I am missing before I tow it in?
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I recently (in the last few months) have noticed my truck (1999 F350 duallie) seeming to be running very rich … I pull a 32' trailer with it and noticed on the art few trips the front and right side of the trailer covered with diesel fuel spots when I got home …. It also smells very rich when idling…. The last couple times I started it in the mornings it seems to crank a very long time before it starts …it still runs but its got issues evidently … it has these 3 codes :
P1280
P0475
P1670
The 1670 will clear , but the other 2 I can't clear, they are right back every time you turn the key on …
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Iam looking at a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke that has some problems first it is hard to start cranks like it has a dead cyl. Second after starting it has no power not even enough to move. At first it would only run if held wide open but once it warmed up it would idle and rev and move but barely still had a miss. The weird thing is it did not smoke blue-black or white also no strong smell of diesel and no smell of oil at all. The truck has 230ish miles and there are no maintenance records.air filter was new.
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I have a 2000 F250, 300k. Starts beautifully when cold, takes 10 seconds of cranking when at Operating Temperature. Did the injectors and plugs in September, kept doing it and now that it's summer it's getting harder and harder to start. Just replaced the ipr, still doing it. Gonna do an overdue oil change tonight or tomorrow, I'm hopeing that will improve it. I can understand 3 or 4 sec of cranking, but not 10. Truck hads no drivability issues whatsoever. Will an ICP fix it? Change to a heavy-duty 20w-50? (Last oil change was delo 15w-40) The code reader that I have is really basic, and only shows me RPM and map.
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I have a 2000 f350 manual transmission with electronic shift transfer case and my 4x4 won't kick on I've put it up on a lift and tried again but the front driveshaft won't spin and the light on my dash for the 4x4 won't work I'm also throwing 4 transfer case codes....
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I need a wiring diagram for my 2000 F-350 power mirrors also to go along with the power window schematics that I posted before.
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I have an 02 f250 230,000, first 7.3. I've owned it since Oct and put less than 6,000 miles on it. I have another cold crank no start. New glow plugs and Glow plug relay last weekend. Worked fine that weekend. It sat all week, then crank no start fri night, it was like 70 degrees for the high that day. Plugged it in over night and it started. Did not fire right up cranked it for a couple seconds. I drove it all day, started every time. Valve covers have 5,000 miles on them. Fuel Filter heater fuse not blown. But don't know how to check it for sure. And don't know where to go with it from here. Getting frustrated with crank no starts. No troubles found.
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I have a 1997 F350 7.3 with standard xmission. Have not messed with it since Oct of last year. Then it would crank but no start. Now when I turn the key there is no wts or nothing the gauges move, and tach moves when cranking, but nothing else.
The cam and crank pos sensors have been changed. The high pressure sensors changed. Now when I hook it to the AE it says cannot connect to truck. Where I need to start? Have checked all fuses that I know about.
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Friend's 2000 7.3 wont start, just crank and crank tried to fire but nothing in the cold leave it plugged in and it starts leave it in a shop over night and it starts with a shot of either, he is a truck driver and the truck will sometimes sits for 6 weeks at a time this time 2 weeks before I touched it. He wanted me to install a fuel pump so I did and started the following:
Cracked fuel lines to see if I had fuel psi at both heads
I tested glowplugs they all read at 0.3 on all 8
I have power to harness as the same at both sides of the relay
RPM tach jumps
Oil psi gauge rises
Using my phone I can read hpop and 2000 at cranking (how accurate that is im not 100% sure)
All fuses good
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So I got all 8 injectors upgraded and excited when I get them back I put them all in in kind of a rush. And in that rush I left the cylinders full of excess oil. So obviously when I tried to start it hydro locked. Angry at myself. I kept trying to crank hoping it would fire and just shoot that oil out. Nope, so I went back to taking all the glow plugs out and firing it all back out. Put it all back together then tried to fire her up. Took a minute but she started and I let it run for a while. Hit the gas a few times and then it died. Couldn't get it started again. It would just crank, I checked the icp and ipr and the icp did not build above 35 psi and the ipr was at 98.04% so I just figured the o rings blew out when it hydro locked.
So I took it all back apart put new o rings on, took my time and put it back together right double checking everything. Got it all back together and went to start it, it would just crank around 160-170 rpms, battery voltage at 10.6 icp built up to 140 but now it won't build past 40. Ipr still goes to 98.04. The engine ran just fine prior to injector change, I put a new upgraded hpop prior to injector change, new ipr, icp, cps. Everything checks out, but it will not build oil pressure while crank I've killed a set of batteries then went all out and spent 350 at napa for some optima red tops. I did notice the cylinder 7 injector is the AE injector. It suppose to be in cylinder 8, idk if that's affect the oil pressure building up?
But as far as I know, I'm not building oil pressure. So idk if the hydro lock could have ruined something to keep it from building oil pressure?
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i have a 2001 f250 7.3L PSD. it turns over but will not run. replaced the CPS , starter and the #30 fuse. IPR is new and all injectors are new, new gaskets and harness and new glow plugs new batteries. still just cranks and cranks. no oil pressure build up and no tach movement, oil level is good in HPOP. What could it be?
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