Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F250 Runs Out Of Fuel On Hard Pull / Long Hills
Sep 3, 2016
Every time I hit a hill, loaded or empty, or get on the truck on level ground after about 15 seconds it acts like it's running out of fuel. The pump starts getting noisy like it has air in it, but it'll straighten out eventually. If you don't let off the fuel it'll eventually stall out. No check engine light, no codes. Truck has a ts chip but it does it on all settings. New fuel filter, changed oil with hot shots secret, new air filter, hutch mod done. I'm at a loss for what to do. Good fuel pressure also.
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This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3L and I pulled this from the overflow tank. I'm thinking it's oil since my oil cooler is leaking but just want to make sure it's not fuel and need to do injector cups...
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I pulled with my 2000 F250 7.3 for the first time yesterday pulling a 12,500 5th wheel and then again today with an 18 ft ski boat weighting around 3500 for both the trailer and boat. I had this same issue pulling both.
Today when pulling the boat/trailer i was behind a slow moving truck and when we hit a hill with a passing lane i merged over and wanted to start passing him. We started off at around 45 mph up the hill and as I started pushing the pedal I wasn't gaining any speed and my rpm's didn't even get over 1500. It felt like a stall and continued that at around 45-50 mph up the hill (about a 65 degree slope). When I'm not towing the truck runs great, plenty of power and averaging around 16 1/2 mpg.
Only mods i have is a 6647 Napa filter, muffler delete and it's running the same 4 position TS tuner from the original owner. During normal operation I run it at the 75hp gain and when towing i use the 50hp gain.
In both instances i could see black smoke coming from exhaust when pushing the pedal but my rpm's wouldn't go up and truck maintained the slow speed going up the hill. Once at the top it drove normal and picked up speed without any problems.
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So I'm not sure if I should post this here or in the 1994.5-97 section. The reason being I have a 2000 f250 with a 97 7.3. It currently has a mechanical fuel pump but they keep crapping out. We dont have the money to do a $600 diy conversion so were looking for a cheap solution.
So the 2000 has all the fuel lines and plugs to put a electric fuel pump in, but if I just threw a electric pump on then it would feed to the mechanical fuel pump which I'm guessing is a no no? Or possible?
If I put the electric fuel pump would I just have to remove the mechanical fuel pump and run lines from the pump to the bowl?
If the fuel bowl can't hold the pressure of an electric fuel pump then would I be able to swap the fuel bowl only and be good to go or is that impossible?
Let me know what you think were trying to do this as cheaply as possible.
2000 f250 auto 4x4, 97' 7.3 motor.
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I've got a99 F2 50 super duty with a 2000 2001 motor. I got the truck in the beginning of last winter so this is my first summer with it.
When I first got the truck there are injector issues with the truck. Since I fix the issues there has been little problems out of the truck however it's still suffered misfires when Cold but once up to operating temperature it was fine. Yesterday I had to go with a friend before leaving for the trip I checked the oil it was full and appeared normal the trip was about 150 miles. I came home park the truck after everything was done. This morning I came out started the truck everything acted as it should... truck fired right up everything was great went and dropped off my trailer at the yard come back got fuel when I come back out from paying for the fuel the truck took about 30 seconds to fire up I checked my gauges and torque pro and everything seemed normal. So on my way I went.
I drove about 10 miles on the highway to the place I had to be when I got done doing my business I came back out to start my truck and it did the same thing this time however it took longer to start I managed to drive about a mile down the road when I noticed my old pressure gauge flickering and my Oil pressure light on I immediately shut it down and coasted into O'Reilly's parking lot I check the oil in the truck and it was empty according to the stick I added two whole gallon.... With it filled back up down the road I went. So currently the truck is still suffering from a long hard starts it takes 30 to 45 seconds before it all actually fire up once it fires up everything appears to be fine however the truck is slowly smoking a bluish black color... It's never done this before however I've never had this truck in the middle of summer when it's real hot out I don't think this is normal.
The truck doesn't appear to be down on any power actually it, acts as if it might've picked up of some power it is felt real peppy today compared to other days. Also I might note that about a week or two ago I started smelling diesel like either really rich diesel or raw diesel wasn't too bad but I just got whiffs of it for now and then. Now there is a burn oil smell present from the exhaust. Like I was saying earlier when I first got the truck I had to service the injector O-rings... I was told that the miss firing when cold was caused by the Poppitz sticking. The misfire hasn't been present since it got a little warm outside like I was saying it was only when the vehicle is cold.... Just thought I would mention the injector issue not sure if it's relative or not..... My thoughts are it's back to an injector issue or O-rings or possibly did I wipe the motor when it ran out of oil. I am not aware of where the oil went as there is been no leaks or drips.
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Went to start my truck (2003, 7.3 F250) one evening and I found the headlights on. No keys in the ignition and the truck hadn't been driven for 2 days. There was a strong smell of plastic and or electrical components burning in the cab. The truck started without a problem. I shut it off and the lights remained on. Cycling the MFS and light switch would not turn the lights off. I had to disconnect the batteries and leave it till time allowed for trouble shooting.
I've had it in my shop for three months now and this is what I've found so far.
-Source of the burn smell is coming from the fuse panel. More specific it's coming from a bulkhead that plugs into the panel. One pin connected to a White wire with 2 purple traces. I've traced this wire to one of 2 small relay packs in the engine compartment next to the driver side fender. I've replaced the relay this white/purple wire connects to as a precaution. This did not remedy my trouble.
-The local ford dealer told me this relay was for the A/C clutch. I located a 10amp fuse in position 10 and removed it. The headlights finally turned off.
-I started the truck and the A/C compressor clutch still engaged and ran. Smoke began to pour from the fuse panel once again. I killed the truck and head lights remained off. All done with the fuse in position 10 removed.
Here's where it gets weird!
-With the key/engine off and I turn the headlight switch on and MFS to low beam the fuel pump is running. Change the MFS to high beams and the fuel pump turns off.
I've looked over the wiring harness and there are no noticeable problems indicating multiple wires being shorted. How are all these issues related?
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I have my 2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke. 175,000 original miles by me and only me. SCT, MBRP, Howes or Stanandyne almost always. Runs like new. It starts rough if I don't plug it in. Even on 50 degree days. Then it levels off and runs perfectly. If I plug the truck in I can drive off immediately with perfect operation of motor. I just went 1500 miles. Pulling a car hauler with car. NP at all.
New Glow Plugs, GPR "Yes it works", IPR, New Harness, Buzz Test shows it's fine, New #8 injector last year, New O rings HPOP. My buddy who is a PStroke guy said this trucks runs too perfect for it to be injectors. He recommends seals for the injectors. What does this mean. Or what else can it be. Where should I start.
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Just joined today, I have a 2003 550 7.3. New HPOP, 3 new injectors, new seals on others, new fuel pressure regulator, new fuel pump, sending unit mod to eliminate filters. 733 HPOP pressure, 65 fuel pressure at idle. Truck runs out of fuel pressure after its warmed up and driven about 20 miles. Haven't checked voltage at pump while driving. I had taken it to a seasoned tech of 20 years and he had replaced HPOP and 2 injectors and it does start better but problem is still there.
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I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
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2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
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Iam looking at a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke that has some problems first it is hard to start cranks like it has a dead cyl. Second after starting it has no power not even enough to move. At first it would only run if held wide open but once it warmed up it would idle and rev and move but barely still had a miss. The weird thing is it did not smoke blue-black or white also no strong smell of diesel and no smell of oil at all. The truck has 230ish miles and there are no maintenance records.air filter was new.
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My 2003 7.3 f250 has trouble starting whenever the temperature is less than 65 degrees. If it is less than 50 degrees I have to plug it in for it to start. Once it starts it runs rough. I let it warm up and it still runs rough. Once I start down the road I'll get on it a bit and it takes off like something lets loose. It then runs geat for the rest of the day but does seem to still crank a little more than it should when I restart it through out the day.
The pickup has 152000k
List of repairs I have done to the truck:
-new gpr
-new glow plugs
-new uvch both sides
-new valve cover gaskets
-new blue cps
-new fuel filter
-new batteries everstart maxx 65n
The truck has an afe air intake, straight exhaust, and a super chips tuner set on mileage saving. It blows white smoke when first started but clears up pretty quick.
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But it starts. '99 F250 PS. Had code P1670, cleared it. No other codes. Started truck back up and ran KOER test with AE(which I'm not very good with). The code did not come back. It is hard to start plugged in cold or warmed up. I have WTS light and it goes out(glow plugs are original). RPMs are slow to come up (almost starts before it kicks in). Doesn't matter if fuel tank is full or not. Oil level is fine. Batteries are charged and check good. Starter checks out ok. Buzz test was ok. Now when I run KOER do I need to do anything other than hitting the initiate button?
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What's up power stroke fam. I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 7.3 liter this is what happen, was leaving the job site the truck started just fine ran for about 3 city blocks stopped at a stop sign and it started to run ruff like it was out of fuel but had a half tank then poof it shut off. After towing the truck home and trying to start it I could hear a relay clicking very sporadic the service engine light came on then when off and the truck started and the exact same thing happened started running ruff and shut off. Where should I start other than taking it to the shop?
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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I am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
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OK . So here's the deal. My 2000 7.3 ford f250 170k miles. Going from phx az to flagstaff az . For some reason I'm hitting about 40 miles per hour with the pedal all the way down going up a decent grade. Seems like something isn't giving the motor power. I'm pulling a 28 ft toy hauler pretty much empty . Under 5800 pounds . What this could be . Also was get pretty close to the red on water temp gauge.
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20 degrees out this morning truck not plugged in, didn't want to start had to cycle 4-5 times, each time waiting for glow plug Light to go out.
Finally cranked didn't sound pretty but cranked. Once it started idling on its own got out and seen a puddle of oil under the front of the engine drivers side center kind of.
Got up on the truck and shined a light in the valley and seen a puddle in intake valley. Heres my question? Where did this oil come from? Once it warmed up it quit and oil kinda disappeared from valley???
I had turbo off a few months ago because I thought I had a bearing down in it, but found some bolts lose. When I put turbo back on I broke the wire plug on front of the pedestal so I just left it unplugged. Very hard to cold start now that that is unhooked.
Did leaving this unhooked create a hard cold start? Should I put another pedestal on it with the plug or install one without it? Also will it hurt to leave plugged in overnight?
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Truck stalls out and cranks hard for 7-10 seconds before starting if I don't let it warm up adequately before I start driving. Transmission is hesitant to shift. Also, white smoke comes out exhaust if it's cold and I get in the throttle too much or if I hit 70+mph.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3. Recently started this problem idling at 1000 Rpms when stopped completely and when I let off the gas pedal it idles real funny like it's fixing to run out of fuel. It does not do this all the time however. At times it runs great. I had my mechanic scan it and at first it was the exhaust pressure sensor. Replaced it and it ran fine for awhile and it started doing again. Took it back in to get re scanned and it was throwing a bad ICM code. Replaced this as well and I'm still having the same problem. Had it scanned again and it's not throwing any codes now. I have no check engine light on and as long as I'm on the gas pedal it runs great. It's just when I roll up to stop or when I'm stopped completely. Again it does not do it all the time.
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