Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F250 Won't Getting Power?
Jul 4, 2015
OK . So here's the deal. My 2000 7.3 ford f250 170k miles. Going from phx az to flagstaff az . For some reason I'm hitting about 40 miles per hour with the pedal all the way down going up a decent grade. Seems like something isn't giving the motor power. I'm pulling a 28 ft toy hauler pretty much empty . Under 5800 pounds . What this could be . Also was get pretty close to the red on water temp gauge.
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I've got a 2000 F-250 with a 7.3. The other day I was driving down the road and it lost power and my foot almost went to the floor. I was at the bottom of a hill when it did this and I was running 60 mph. By the time I got to the top I was running 20 mph and had the truck to the floor. When I was driving it home it was tacking around 1800 rpm and my egts were only at 125 degrees. I know I'm not getting fuel. I thought it could be the fuel filter so I changed it. Still no luck. It'll start back up but it dies if I take my foot off the accelerator. It shook terrible when I was driving it home too. Is it injectors, uvch, hpop, or something else?
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Cooler weather has arrived and my 2000 f250 won't start. Wait to start light is coming on, no power passing through the two relays on top of the engine. Are both of these for glowplugs? My 97 only had one. How do I diagnose relays on this truck? If you cross out the two relays truck fires right off so I know the glowplugs themselves are good.
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I'm having issues with my girlfriends truck turning over. It won't turn over at all. I'm not getting any power to the small wire on the relay on the passenger fender or the red wire with a blue stripe off the ignition module.
I've cleaned and tested the batteries and the terminals. I've replaced the ignition switch the ignition module the starter and the starter relay on the passenger fender and I've also checked the neutral safety switch. I've checked all the fuses and relays also.
It's a 2000 Ford 7.3l automatic.
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I have a 2000 F-250 7.3 L Diesel w/200,000+ miles on it.
I use the truck for snowplowing and last snowfall one of my employees broke the overdrive switch on the PRNDL shift lever. I just replaced it and as I went to start the truck I had just turned the key to run in order to let the glow plugs warm up and the truck attempted to start itself.
As it was running I could hear the starter continue to run although I never fully turned the key. I have since then replaced the ignition switch and the key lock cylinder. That didn't fix the issue, I then pulled the fuse box that is inside the cab of the truck to inspect the GEM module. Other than lots of dust there was no corrosion or any see-able issues with the module. I cleaned all connections thoroughly and even applied a little dielectric grease to the connections.
Still has the same issue, I ran a voltmeter to the trigger wire on the starter relay and it reads 10V when the key is turned to run. I believe it should not read any voltage until the key is turned to start. If I have the trigger wire on the starter relay disconnected the truck won't start, obviously. I don't believe the starter relay is bad because it does start only when the key is in the run position and it has never attempted to start without the key.
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I have a 2000 f250 7.3 with about 230,000 miles on it. So I filled my truck up to go out of town got on my way drove about 50 miles and the next stop I made the truck shut off and would not start again. I figured CPS went out again! nope changed it still not start. So check the fuel pump seemed fine was getting diesel. Checked oil, was a little low so i topped it off nothing. So i left the truck over night and came back on sunday still nothing. I finally got it started with a shot of quick start i know its not good but i had to get this Truck home. I drove and made it almost home took my foot off the pedal and it stalled again so i pulled it home. Had a guy go over and scan it and it says the oil pressure is at 30 psi when cranking so he says the hpop is probably bad.
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3L and I pulled this from the overflow tank. I'm thinking it's oil since my oil cooler is leaking but just want to make sure it's not fuel and need to do injector cups...
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I just bought a 00 f250 cc that originally came out of Canada so the speedo and mileage is all in kilometers. I have bought a use cluster that is in standard units to replace it with. I am just curious if all I have to do is replace the cluster or if there is other thing that need to be replace as well to make it work right.
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So I'm not sure if I should post this here or in the 1994.5-97 section. The reason being I have a 2000 f250 with a 97 7.3. It currently has a mechanical fuel pump but they keep crapping out. We dont have the money to do a $600 diy conversion so were looking for a cheap solution.
So the 2000 has all the fuel lines and plugs to put a electric fuel pump in, but if I just threw a electric pump on then it would feed to the mechanical fuel pump which I'm guessing is a no no? Or possible?
If I put the electric fuel pump would I just have to remove the mechanical fuel pump and run lines from the pump to the bowl?
If the fuel bowl can't hold the pressure of an electric fuel pump then would I be able to swap the fuel bowl only and be good to go or is that impossible?
Let me know what you think were trying to do this as cheaply as possible.
2000 f250 auto 4x4, 97' 7.3 motor.
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I have a 2000 7.3L f250 superduty. after rebuild and a yr now have engine smokes when you rev the engine and an imbalance on No1 cylinder causing injector to carbon up poss from prev misfires due to injector harness now solved? Found the turbo exhaust outlet pipe leaking oil we think because the wrong size clamp fitted. will fit new clamp tomorrow but if this does not solve problem what next? This has now cost thousands and still having problems...
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I have a 2000 f250 with the 7.3 and 181,000 miles on it, recently got stuck in the snow (in 2wd because i forgot to lock the hubs) and the rear wheels did alot of spinning. Now i randomly have the OD light start to blink, sometimes its a half a blink, sometimes it'll stay on for a few seconds, itll do it randomly while crusing down the road at a constant speed, also noticed my rpms fluctuate a tad at idle.
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00 F250 338k auto
No error codes or warning lights (Forscan verified)
No smoke out of the exhaust
No oil or coolant leaks
Have banging noise from the motor. When cold truck sounds normal, quiet. When it warms up, the banging becomes audible. You can hear it at idle. You can hear it under acceleration. Frequency increases with RPM
When at speed, and letting off the throttle, noise goes away.....comes back when back on the throttle. Any time during driving when I let off, engine quiets down to normal. To me it sounds like exhaust leak, bur not sure how to check for those?
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I have a 2000 F250 4x4, it has been sitting in my garage for about 3 weeks. I cranked it up and backed it up about 10'. A few hours later I noticed a lot of transmission fluid on the floor. I remember hearing a hissing sound when I cut it off but didn't think anything about it. The fluid is on passengers side of truck, right side of the engine. Most of fluid is toward the rear but some ran down in front of the axle also. It's up high also, I've got fluid on rear of valve cover. I've cranked it up and let it run but can't get it to leak. Where did all this fluid come from?
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Every time I hit a hill, loaded or empty, or get on the truck on level ground after about 15 seconds it acts like it's running out of fuel. The pump starts getting noisy like it has air in it, but it'll straighten out eventually. If you don't let off the fuel it'll eventually stall out. No check engine light, no codes. Truck has a ts chip but it does it on all settings. New fuel filter, changed oil with hot shots secret, new air filter, hutch mod done. I'm at a loss for what to do. Good fuel pressure also.
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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My pickup has 316,000 miles on it. It's a 2000 ford f250 7.3 powerstroke. I have always bragged how my truck can pull anything because it has alot of power. Yesterday when pulling a 28' travel trailer up an incline I noticed I didn't have much power and it steadily got worse. Now I'm at a crawl when I hear a noise sounding like it lost air compression for a few minutes then the noise stopped. I stopped and looked to make sure everything under the hood was still attached and everything seemed fine.
I got back in and continued very slowly a few more miles home. Gauge were all good, never got hot. I put a scanner on it and it threw two codes. P1247 and P1248. I haven't noticed any unusual smoke. This is my second ford I've owned and know that when weather gets cold you may have to plug it in. But this truck it doesn't matter if it's 100 outside it will not start without plugging in for at least 1 hour. I've replaced all glow plugs hasn't worked. So I am assuming this break down now has something to do with it. I really am starting to not like fords!
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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I will start with what I have done to my truck. Hutch and harpoon mod, fuel pump, new orings on fuel lines, fuel filter, air box, 4" exhaust. My issue only happens when my engine is warmed up and I put it under a load(driving up a long hill or pulling up a long hill). My truck starts to shudder and feels like missing until it looses all power to where it won't even pull itself and will just barely idle. It doesn't die though. I watch the engine oil temp and it seems to be around 195-200 when it occurs. I can turn the truck off and let the oil temp cool to 150-160 and then start the truck up it will miss for a second then clear up. I will start driving again and it seems fine until the oil temp gets up and start putting it under a load. I have read many posts and can't figure out exactly where I need to start. Some of the codes I pulled are P0603, P0470, P0732, P0542 and P1211.
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1999 f250, 280,000 miles. I use Power Service with every tank, oil changes every 3500. Had a few of the injectors changed several years ago after getting bad fuel. Tranny "built" when rebuilt, about 60,000 miles ago.
Truck starts and drives every time, no miss or rough idle, no smoke. Just not as much power. It downshifts sooner and really seems to resent towing my atv trailer. Where do I start ?
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As I'm cruising once I hit about 50mph I start getting a vibration in the peddles and floor board. It's not real bad but noticeable for sure. When I hit 70mph it's worse and the truck even sounds like it's vibrating. As soon as I let off the peddle and coast everything is golden.. Smooth.. So it seems to be a problem only under power..
A little back story : About a year ago I was getting bad vibration and loosing power. I put it in the shop and the mechanic said the filter or screen in the gas tank was clogged so he cleaned it. I went to Korea for a year so the truck sat in government storage for a year. When I got it back in March I put in back in the shop to have the front passenger side hub replaced.
I don't know if any of that has to do with the vibration I'm getting now.
Truck
2003 F250 ext cab
7.3l
179k miles
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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