Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F250 - Electric Fuel Conversion?
Aug 16, 2015
So I'm not sure if I should post this here or in the 1994.5-97 section. The reason being I have a 2000 f250 with a 97 7.3. It currently has a mechanical fuel pump but they keep crapping out. We dont have the money to do a $600 diy conversion so were looking for a cheap solution.
So the 2000 has all the fuel lines and plugs to put a electric fuel pump in, but if I just threw a electric pump on then it would feed to the mechanical fuel pump which I'm guessing is a no no? Or possible?
If I put the electric fuel pump would I just have to remove the mechanical fuel pump and run lines from the pump to the bowl?
If the fuel bowl can't hold the pressure of an electric fuel pump then would I be able to swap the fuel bowl only and be good to go or is that impossible?
Let me know what you think were trying to do this as cheaply as possible.
2000 f250 auto 4x4, 97' 7.3 motor.
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I was wondering if it is possible, due to budget, to perform the electric fuel pump conversion in steps. By that I mean could I remove the mechanical pump and install the electric pump on the frame, but retain the stock filter housing and regulator? I would use high pressure hose and run from the stock pump supply line on top of the engine to the fuel bowl inlet and then use high pressure to run to a three way fitting, and a bit more hose to join the fitting to the stock lines running to the head. later as budget allow I will replace the filter assembly and regulator and then the lines to the heads.
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I have a 2000 F250 7.3L and I pulled this from the overflow tank. I'm thinking it's oil since my oil cooler is leaking but just want to make sure it's not fuel and need to do injector cups...
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Every time I hit a hill, loaded or empty, or get on the truck on level ground after about 15 seconds it acts like it's running out of fuel. The pump starts getting noisy like it has air in it, but it'll straighten out eventually. If you don't let off the fuel it'll eventually stall out. No check engine light, no codes. Truck has a ts chip but it does it on all settings. New fuel filter, changed oil with hot shots secret, new air filter, hutch mod done. I'm at a loss for what to do. Good fuel pressure also.
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There was no power getting to the fuel pump on my 2002 Ford F250 73 diesel traced it back to the inertia switch no power in or out but I'm getting power at the fuel pump relay put the code scanner to the PCM and no communication....
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OK . So here's the deal. My 2000 7.3 ford f250 170k miles. Going from phx az to flagstaff az . For some reason I'm hitting about 40 miles per hour with the pedal all the way down going up a decent grade. Seems like something isn't giving the motor power. I'm pulling a 28 ft toy hauler pretty much empty . Under 5800 pounds . What this could be . Also was get pretty close to the red on water temp gauge.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3. Recently started this problem idling at 1000 Rpms when stopped completely and when I let off the gas pedal it idles real funny like it's fixing to run out of fuel. It does not do this all the time however. At times it runs great. I had my mechanic scan it and at first it was the exhaust pressure sensor. Replaced it and it ran fine for awhile and it started doing again. Took it back in to get re scanned and it was throwing a bad ICM code. Replaced this as well and I'm still having the same problem. Had it scanned again and it's not throwing any codes now. I have no check engine light on and as long as I'm on the gas pedal it runs great. It's just when I roll up to stop or when I'm stopped completely. Again it does not do it all the time.
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I've had an engine oil leak for some time. Recently I've had to add about a quart a month. I got some fluorescent dye and added it to the engine oil last time I added a quart. Ran the engine for a few weeks. Then cleaned the engine valley with cleaner and hot water.
Tonight I investigated the top of the engine with a black light. To my surprise, the oil leak is coming from the fuel bowl, right around the drain valve. I can clearly see about a drop every 3 seconds of fluorescent yellow liquid falling into the valley below and yellow all around the valve.
I expected a leak from the HPOP not the fuel bowl. Do I have a bigger problem? Is engine oil getting into the fuel? I plan to replace the seals in the fuel bowl, but not until I know whether I have a larger problem to address.
2001 F250 Crewcab, 220,000 miles
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I've got a 2000 F-250 with a 7.3. The other day I was driving down the road and it lost power and my foot almost went to the floor. I was at the bottom of a hill when it did this and I was running 60 mph. By the time I got to the top I was running 20 mph and had the truck to the floor. When I was driving it home it was tacking around 1800 rpm and my egts were only at 125 degrees. I know I'm not getting fuel. I thought it could be the fuel filter so I changed it. Still no luck. It'll start back up but it dies if I take my foot off the accelerator. It shook terrible when I was driving it home too. Is it injectors, uvch, hpop, or something else?
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Cooler weather has arrived and my 2000 f250 won't start. Wait to start light is coming on, no power passing through the two relays on top of the engine. Are both of these for glowplugs? My 97 only had one. How do I diagnose relays on this truck? If you cross out the two relays truck fires right off so I know the glowplugs themselves are good.
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2002 7.3 F350, 190k miles ....
If there is indeed diesel fuel in my coolant, what is the most common cause of this problem? Truck has low power when towing 8 tons.
I've replaced water pump due to truck overheating and blowing off radiator cap during first hard tow up steep hill.
Replaced all radiator/heater/coolant hoses.
Replaced radiator.
I've also flushed the cooling system 5+ times now with coolant flush and distilled water. Each time, less and less evidence of brown-colored stop leak.
The stop leak looked like diarrhea, slightly chunky. After the third flush, stop leak in coolant lessened.
HOWEVER -- 4th/5th flush of coolant each still looked like brown milk. Coolant has a strange chemical smell, possibly diesel fuel.
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I'm having issues with my girlfriends truck turning over. It won't turn over at all. I'm not getting any power to the small wire on the relay on the passenger fender or the red wire with a blue stripe off the ignition module.
I've cleaned and tested the batteries and the terminals. I've replaced the ignition switch the ignition module the starter and the starter relay on the passenger fender and I've also checked the neutral safety switch. I've checked all the fuses and relays also.
It's a 2000 Ford 7.3l automatic.
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I have a 2000 F-250 7.3 L Diesel w/200,000+ miles on it.
I use the truck for snowplowing and last snowfall one of my employees broke the overdrive switch on the PRNDL shift lever. I just replaced it and as I went to start the truck I had just turned the key to run in order to let the glow plugs warm up and the truck attempted to start itself.
As it was running I could hear the starter continue to run although I never fully turned the key. I have since then replaced the ignition switch and the key lock cylinder. That didn't fix the issue, I then pulled the fuse box that is inside the cab of the truck to inspect the GEM module. Other than lots of dust there was no corrosion or any see-able issues with the module. I cleaned all connections thoroughly and even applied a little dielectric grease to the connections.
Still has the same issue, I ran a voltmeter to the trigger wire on the starter relay and it reads 10V when the key is turned to run. I believe it should not read any voltage until the key is turned to start. If I have the trigger wire on the starter relay disconnected the truck won't start, obviously. I don't believe the starter relay is bad because it does start only when the key is in the run position and it has never attempted to start without the key.
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I have a 2000 f250 7.3 with about 230,000 miles on it. So I filled my truck up to go out of town got on my way drove about 50 miles and the next stop I made the truck shut off and would not start again. I figured CPS went out again! nope changed it still not start. So check the fuel pump seemed fine was getting diesel. Checked oil, was a little low so i topped it off nothing. So i left the truck over night and came back on sunday still nothing. I finally got it started with a shot of quick start i know its not good but i had to get this Truck home. I drove and made it almost home took my foot off the pedal and it stalled again so i pulled it home. Had a guy go over and scan it and it says the oil pressure is at 30 psi when cranking so he says the hpop is probably bad.
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I have a 2000 F-250 SUperduty with a dana 50 front end , and as most of you know the front hub bearing's are junk, and expensive to replace. I know dynatrac has a kit to convert it to the tapered, cheaper, servicable bearing's. But 2g is a lil out of my price range. I was curious if anybody has tried takin the knuckles and stub shafts off an older dana 60 and putting the knucke's on the front axle to get the older bearing style instead of the hub bearing and the actuall lock outs instead of the POS vaccum style.
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Where the fuel pump is located on a 2000 F-350 7.3L Diesel? Also, how complex is replacing this?
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Okay a little update on my truck not starting, and for those who have not read my earlier post. My water in fuel light has been on in my truck for probably a month of use. I drained the water sep under the truck nonstop and added several bottles of water remover and the light would not go out so I assumed the sensor was just bad. (im new to owning a powerstroke btw) I broke down coming home from work, got it towed home, and still cant get it started. It will crank fine just wont fire up. I tried unplugging the ICP, i replaced the CPS, and ordered a new water sep/ fuel filter for under the truck. And the fuel filter on top was just replaced a month before breaking down. Every single time i drain the separator tons of clear water diluted fuel comes out before it turns greenish.
Not sure if this could be a cause of getting water in my fuel but one time i filled the truck up completely and it was like the water overfilled and probably a quart or two of fuel spewed out onto the ground. Not sure where it came from. Also I have just over a quarter tank so i was thinking maybe the float broke and I just needed to add fuel but today before i went to add fuel i drained the sep and tons of water came out... Im so worried about hydrolocking my engine or ruining my injectors. But I dont know if my issue even is water related if the sensor just went bad...
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I just bought a 00 f250 cc that originally came out of Canada so the speedo and mileage is all in kilometers. I have bought a use cluster that is in standard units to replace it with. I am just curious if all I have to do is replace the cluster or if there is other thing that need to be replace as well to make it work right.
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I have a very small fuel leak in my 2001 F-250. I was going to just let it go until I needed to do other work (since I get 20mpg city and 25mpg highway), but I went to a "new" inspection guy, and he flunked me. So now I have to fix it. And for all I know, my mpg and fifteen other things will break when I try to fix this.
Today I spent 4 hours in the heat putting in two new o-rings on the water separator valve. But the truck still leaks fuel. Climbed up on top of motor while it was running and looked, but I don't see where the fuel is leaking out.
Online research suggests to me that the next most-likely culprit is a steel fuel line that wears through from vibration and chafing. Is that correct?
This truck is so eaten up with rust (came from salt belt) that I bought a LOT of fuel line stuff a year or so ago, so that when things started falling apart from rust, I would have the parts on hand.
Now I'm wondering whether I already have the part I'm likely to need.
So far, I have bought:
1. Dorman Fuel Supply and Return Lines
2. Riff Raff Diesel High Pressure Crossover (HPx)
3. Riff Raff Diesel Fuel Rail Crossover (FRx)
So my question is, am I likely to have something to replace the part that commonly leaks on these trucks due to vibration/wear/chafing ... or will I still need to buy another part?
I'm thinking that one of the two lines in item #1 above is the problem child...
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I have a 2000 7.3L f250 superduty. after rebuild and a yr now have engine smokes when you rev the engine and an imbalance on No1 cylinder causing injector to carbon up poss from prev misfires due to injector harness now solved? Found the turbo exhaust outlet pipe leaking oil we think because the wrong size clamp fitted. will fit new clamp tomorrow but if this does not solve problem what next? This has now cost thousands and still having problems...
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I have a 2000 f250 with the 7.3 and 181,000 miles on it, recently got stuck in the snow (in 2wd because i forgot to lock the hubs) and the rear wheels did alot of spinning. Now i randomly have the OD light start to blink, sometimes its a half a blink, sometimes it'll stay on for a few seconds, itll do it randomly while crusing down the road at a constant speed, also noticed my rpms fluctuate a tad at idle.
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