Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 - Cranks Over Fast But Won't Fire
Nov 30, 2015
I am having trouble getting my 2000 7.3 (200k) to start on the colder mornings. It will crank over fast, but won't start without a lot of tries. Today it took 6 pre-heats and cranks, but on others (and colder days) it has started easier. It does seem to be getting worse though.
I have replaced the glow plug relay recently so it *shouldn't* be that unless the replacement is fried. Starts fine the rest of the day and drives fine, but not in the cooler am (it was about 34 this morning). I also tested the batteries yesterday and while they aren't new, they tested okay.
Also, I read (briefly) about the CPS, but forgot to watch the tach this morning, but did notice it is pushing smoke out when turning over.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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2002 7.3 Power Stroke... I bought the truck about 4 months ago and I absolutely love it but over the last few weeks is has been acting funny at times, it doesn't do it all the time but it has been getting progressively worse, ill drive the truck all day and no problems when I shut it off and go to start it again it just cranks but won't fire.
* Batteries are charged and in good condition, oil is a little dirty but full, I have no codes or check engine light on, and my wait to start light seems to be working fine!
* If I supply a fuel source(starting fluid) the truck will fire but not stay running
* And let it sit for 15 to 45 minutes fires right up like there was never an issue.
* There are no blown fuses
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While driving my 99 F350 7.3 it died and I was lucky enough to coast home. No WTS light, no tach movement when cranking, no fuel pump, no CEL, Cranks great but no smoke or fire. New CPS & PCM still no lights or tach. Moved relays checked all fuses. WTF is wrong?
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The night temperture was only about 37 degrees. But every morning my 2000 F-350 7.3 crew cab 188,000 on it would not start. The first try there would be a split second where the motor would fire, but that would be it. I had to plug the engine block heater into my generator for at least an hour before it would start. I don't see how all the glow plugs could be bad at once??
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2000 7.3 Excursion. Truck ran fine on a 5 hour trip for family vacation. Pulled and to where we were going turn the truck off then what I had to do I came outside try to restart the truck for the next three days it would take 2 to 3 cranks before it was would start. Then on day number three tried six times and didn't start went to bed woke up the next morning and it took three cranks to start. drove it down to mechanic shop near me they have been troubleshooting and think it's an electrical issue the code is P1280; he said there were a couple other codes too and he would tell me what they were later but he never has. I took him a new CPS a new ICM and a new PCM, none of that fixed it. I am at my wits end here and really have to have my truck for work every day.
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2000 ford f150 4.6 auto. Will spin over but won't start. checked coil for fire, no fire. Check fuel rail for fuel, no fuel. No theft light flashing and no check engine light on. Has new battery and plenty of fuel in tank. Started fine yesterday but not today.
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I just bought an 04 Ford F250 diesel 6.0 with 92k miles. Previous owner installed a UNGO alarm with remote start. Last week, after work, I started it using remote start. I got in the truck and realized I had forgotten something, so I exit the truck and leave the keys on the seat. Truck is still running. The doors lock. I reached in through the cracked window and pushed the unlock button. Here's the problem.. the truck died immediately won't start.. mechanic says it's the high pressure oil pump. I'm thinking it's the anti theft system but no luck.
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Have starting problems some times, cranks over real good but will not fire . When this happens i have no fuel pres. But after it starts then it will run good This problem usually happens first thing in the morning. Is there a fuel pump relay in this system or do i have a bad pump . I only have 85,000 miles on this truck.
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Friends truck, 06 with 135k. Problem he's having is, truck cranks over fine but doesn't fire, if he kick starts it, it fires right up. Haven't had the chance to put my AE on it, figured I throw it out there.
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I have a 6 liter 2005 e350 diesel that starts great when cold and runs well all the time but after it warms up it just cranks but won't fire up. But if i shoot ether into the intake it will start. It doesn't show any failure codes.
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Friend's 2000 7.3 wont start, just crank and crank tried to fire but nothing in the cold leave it plugged in and it starts leave it in a shop over night and it starts with a shot of either, he is a truck driver and the truck will sometimes sits for 6 weeks at a time this time 2 weeks before I touched it. He wanted me to install a fuel pump so I did and started the following:
Cracked fuel lines to see if I had fuel psi at both heads
I tested glowplugs they all read at 0.3 on all 8
I have power to harness as the same at both sides of the relay
RPM tach jumps
Oil psi gauge rises
Using my phone I can read hpop and 2000 at cranking (how accurate that is im not 100% sure)
All fuses good
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E99 zf6 180k. Ts 6 position and 6637. Just found d out the oil was 25000 miles old and changed it. 400 mile trip followed by a few days in town with no problems. Shut it off warm and it won't refire. Takes 3 loooong cranks. Few minutes later it restarts hard but not as hard. Head out for a few hundred mile trip and it's running fine except all of a sudden "bucks" a few times within a couple hour window. I took data during the trip and never saw anything strange. Today a cold start, around town driving, and warm restart were all normal.
My thoughts are to
1. Verify steady fuel pressure (I only have a temporary gauge setup)
2. Check the fuel filter for oil.
3. Pull the valve covers to look for injector oil leaks.
#3, though, I dunno if it's worth it. Perdels look fine and icp seems to be about the same as it always has.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil. I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. If you need any info off the scangauge let me know and I will post the exact readings. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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2002 f250 7.3l diesel...
I got a new radiator and the tranny fluid was the worst the mechanic had ever seen. He serviced it and warned me that it might not be long for this world. I broke my flexplate and so I had to pull the tranny, and I decided to throw a new torque converter in because it was giving g me symptoms like a broken sprag( it wouldn't rev up or do a brake stand in gear, therefore slow takeoffs).
I was recommended to replace the tranny, I decided I could do the job again down the road if I needed to. About two thousand miles down the road I had a hard shift going from overdrive down to get up a hill and about 10 miles later the truck started slowing down....I couldn't give it enough pedal to keep it going and the engine sounded rough.
I pulled over and checked fluids and everything was fine, truck idled fine, bright red tranny fluid not burnt at all. Pulled on to the road again and it pulled fine until about 40 mph and it wouldn't go any faster. I got it towed home and ordered up a tranny from Ford figuring it must be toast, but I thought I'd throw it out to the forum to see if there is any other troubleshooting I can do before I install the new one in case it is some other problem or some electrical harness or something, or if that is a pretty standard reaction to a fried tranny.
Engine runs good at idle, shifts perfectly to drive and reverse, drives forward and back(I'm very hesitant to drive it out of the driveway in case I can't get it back in). Only happened two times before I decided to tow it. Temps looked fine on the gauges, fluid was a little overfilled in the tranny, but again, not hot or burnt.
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2002 7.3 PS TD.
Lately sometimes when I get in and start the truck all is well. Then the next time it will spin like a top, but not fire. New batteries. Then it will fire right up. It may go a few weeks, or days, then it happens again. Temperature does not seem to be a factor. It also doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. Once when rounding a corner at low speed, it just died, then started right up.
I recently changed the fuel and air filters. I think the glow plugs are getting old. In cool weather I turn the key on for about 1 min. before cranking. I have 110,000 on the engine with all original parts.
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I just replaced my up pipes, turbo pedestal O-ring, ICP, IPR, New O-rings in all my injectors and torqued to spec, new glow plugs, glow plug relay, oil loom wiring harness, new O-rings on oil cooler, oil filter, oil, and antifreeze. I have tried and tried on upwards of 75 or so time to get it to turn over. A little white smoke came out and it sounded like it wanted to fire up, but only a few times.
I have good batteries and a charger on it, 3-4 tries in 5-10 second bursts or longer if it doesn't lose power every 30 -hr. oil is in HPOP too. just found out my block heater is dead, but I shouldn't need it now. Tach moves a little when I crank it but only when my oil pressure gauge hits half way and that about the time it wants to start and starts white smoking.
2001 F-350 7.3 auto 2wd 4dr longbed 329,611 ml
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I have a 99 F450 bucket truck. I was up in the bucket when the engine died suddenly. It turns over but won't fire. I have no dash warning lights now either but everything else seems to be working. Lights, radio, annoying beeping sound from the key left in the ignition, etc. There are roughly 5 or 6 fuses in the panel to the lower left of the steering column that don't have power to them. Are they all supposed to have power when the ignition is on? I checked the fuse panel under the hood and all of the fuses that have 12V to them are good. There are a few small ones that don't have power to them but I don't think they do all the time.
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Owning a 2001 F250 Extended cab with a 7.3 I have not had a lot of questions to ask fortunately.
My truck has spent a lot more time sitting than running lately and when I went to start it the other day it cranked fine but would not fire. Quick read on this forum and the first thing I found was how if the fuel solenoid had less than 10.8 volts when cranking it would not start.
I went down and checked the battery voltage and it was at 12.1 volts no load. I put the battery charger on for about 10 hours (time to kill) and when I pulled the charger and cranked it over, started with no problem.
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I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
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I just replaced the glow plugs, gpr, valve cover gasket and harness. When cooled down, cranks but won't fire. Smoke DOES come out the tailpipe. If I plug it in for awhile it fires right up. What else can I do or check?
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