I only hear it in gear under load so I can't stick my head under the hood to pin point it. I dont see any black streaks and I replaced the EGR tube. Is it commonly just the gasket or do the manifolds crack? If they crack where?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
View 8 RepliesI had a fuel starvation problem because Ford painted the inside of the fuel tank and the paint was coming off and clogging the filters and because I foolishly drove it I now have white smoke spewing out of the tail pipe and an engine miss.
I also explained that I thought that the white smoke did not smell sweet like antifreeze, but rather like diesel. (Hoping that a head gasket replacement is not required.)
I am in the middle of doing the Hutch Mod with frame-mounted Racor PS120-2 jar-type screen pre-pump filter and shortening my previous Harpoon Mod and paint stripping and powerwashing the inside of my tank. Next I plan to move on toward the engine issue.
This evening I was under the van with a flashlight and I noticed that there was a black liquid of some sort at the driver's side exhaust manifold where it joins the up-pipe. At first I was afraid to touch it fearing that it would be carbon-sooted water, but it felt and tasted like carbon-sooted diesel.
And since I haven't started the engine in two weeks and it has been routinely near or over 100F in Sacramento, water would have likely evaporated days ago.
Does it make sense if the fuel starvation problem caused an injector nozzle or its cup to crack or to stick open or to otherwise spew unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold which would cause the white smoke? Obviously, the unburnt fuel must get from the affected cylinder(s) to the tail pipe somehow, which likely means out the exhaust valve, through the exhaust manifold to the up-pipe and through the turbo to the exhaust pipe and finally to the tail pipe.
See pictures at my CP. I can't figure out how to attach them or put them inline here because it still says I can't do attachments.
What is my next move? Remove the driver's side valve cover? If so, what should I look for, etc.?
2002 E350 extended body van 7.3 diesel auto trans converted to 4x4 (bought new)
I just finished installing a new turbo (shaft play and lots of oil in the compressor side), RR up-pipes, and T500 (250k and once had a very long crank to get the ICP up to start).
Anyway, except for another exhaust leak at the pass side up-pipe to manifold, it seemed to run okay but with lots of white smoke. I only have about 50 miles after the install, when it suddenly starting surging and made a lot of loud knocking noises. This then went away and came back again rather quickly. I was close to home, so I made back under power. I also received the two codes listed. My IPR is original, but two summers ago I installed the IPR re-seal kit. Everything on the IPR looked good when it came off for the T500.
After reading around, I saw that low fuel pressure / air in fuel can cause problems. I connected a pressure gauge to the pre-filter port on the filter housing, and got 40psi at idle. I then took a diesel shower and blew out the fuel line into the tank. After re-connecting it, the fuel pressure stayed the same but the engines idles much better, but still has blue smoke. It's the original fuel pump (to me anyway) and original fuel line connections.
I have about 3/4 tank, and no place to put it, so I'd need to run it out for the Hutch mod, or least to get in there and inspect. Would eliminating the Ford connections at the pump be worthwhile for now, and is 40psi at idle adequate? Wondering if it's time for a fuel pump?
I will start with what I have done to my truck. Hutch and harpoon mod, fuel pump, new orings on fuel lines, fuel filter, air box, 4" exhaust. My issue only happens when my engine is warmed up and I put it under a load(driving up a long hill or pulling up a long hill). My truck starts to shudder and feels like missing until it looses all power to where it won't even pull itself and will just barely idle. It doesn't die though. I watch the engine oil temp and it seems to be around 195-200 when it occurs. I can turn the truck off and let the oil temp cool to 150-160 and then start the truck up it will miss for a second then clear up. I will start driving again and it seems fine until the oil temp gets up and start putting it under a load. I have read many posts and can't figure out exactly where I need to start. Some of the codes I pulled are P0603, P0470, P0732, P0542 and P1211.
View 14 Replies1994 f250 7.3 turbo problem.. runs great on the level.. Cruises 65 no problem.. We have an 8% grade coming from town and half way up it starts cutting out and sounds like a jack brake under the hood and loses power.. Once over the top it clears out and runs fine again.... I just changed the fuel filters but no luck... I have been wrenching on cars all my life but no diesels..
View 6 RepliesBeen fighting a coolant issue on '02 F250 4x4 with 7.3. Truck runs hot when under load (ie towing, or ac running on a hot day going down the road). Will sit and idle all day with ac on high and 100 outside. I hear my fan at cold start as normal but that's the only time I hear it. Still has original water pump, fan clutch and radiator. I know all three could stand to be replaced with 340,000 on it. But can't afford to do it all at once.
View 14 RepliesFirst off I have a 2001 7.3 with 294000 miles. While pulling my camper after it gets warm it puts out a very loud whistle it seems to happen when the fan clutch kicks in it does not sound like a belt squeal it almost sounds like it's coming from the turbo area. The engine seems to Surge while this is going on but the RPM gauge doesn't dictate that it almost sounds like it's the fan clutch surging. I took a short video of it while it was doing it ...
View 14 RepliesThe issue: when I reach 37-40mph I have a new sound which I believe is the transmission 4R100. It sounds like a flat spot on a tire, or the sound tires make when they leave the sticker on them. The cadence of the sound is slower than the rotation of the wheels.
If I let off the accelerator, the sound stops, as soon as I add load by pressing the accelerator the sound returns. If I shift to Neutral the sound is gone.
If I coast at any speed the sound is gone. It is only audible when under load at speeds above 37-40 mph. The cadence does increase as I speed up, but it doesn't sound as fast as the motor is turning (~1900 rpm's).
I monitor the truck with torque pro using the PIDs defined here on FTE. I can see lock-up in 3rd and the shift to overdrive. When in lock-up, I see 1-7rpm TCSlip.
Watching transmission temp as reported by torque, the hottest I see is 183* pulling an enclosed 6x12 @ 75 mph. Ambient temp is 95*. Excursion currently has 240k miles on the clock.
This sound was first heard by my wife two weeks ago. I thought I had tire issues and they needed to be rotated. The sound is still present, and now identified only when the truck is in drive, and under load, regardless of me pulling a trailer.
Yesterday on my 500 mile trip, the truck hiccuped several times which I believe was around the time I was either moving in or out of overdrive. Details in a different thread: [URL] .....
Anyway, I've looked at all culprits and can't find anything with the motor, or electrical system. I can't get to a transmission shop until Monday, and won't have my AE until I get home Sunday night. I have a 500 mile run tomorrow. I checked the transmission fluid and it's at a good level, pink, and doesn't have a bad smell.
I have an 03 F250 7.3litre. I have noticed the last few times driving while hauling that my vents start pushing hot air when under a load (example: driving up a long, steep pull) even if I have the AC on. It's starting make me a lot hot under the collar (pun intended) .....
View 14 RepliesOk, I have owned my truck for almost a year and it has 151,000 miles. I have noticed on a few occasions puffs of blue smoke and especially at night in the headlights behind me I notice a lot of smoke when I'm getting into the throttle hard. Under normal driving conditions I don't usually see anything.
Today I noticed it when I was backing my camper(8000lbs) up a small hill onto the side of my garage. It was puffing blue pretty good going up the hill while it was under load.
I have no check engine light on, the truck seems to be running fine. My oil consumption is about 2 quarts every 3-4000 miles. I tried the blow by test with the oil cap but besides some smoke out the filler neck no problems... I don't know very much about diesels so for me to try and trouble shoot this is a problem.
I have done some searching on this, seen a video on YouTube but haven't read anything that is firm on what it is. We pulled our 5er for the first time last weekend and the chatter was pretty pronounced in the Arbuckles here in OK. I was running around 65 mph when I hit the largest hill and as I was climbing my speed naturally dropped, boost was around 17 - 18 psi when the chatter started.
Is it something to be really concerned about? Is there anything to be done to prevent it? I'm pretty much still stock, only deletes have been airbox to 6637, and I deleted the heater by turbo for the boost gauge. Other than that everything on truck is still stock.
My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
View 1 RepliesIll start off with my mods and recent maintenance things I have done before fully describing the issue.
E99 7.3l with 190k on the clock
Full 5" turbo back
TS-6 chip
EGT, Boost and trans temp gauge
New ford glow plugs
Re-orings injectors
new valve cover gaskets
new fuel filter and fuel lines
new turbo with a ww2
Newer trans and oil pan
I think that should do it, now for my problem. The truck starts good cranks over once and is running with no hesitation, the engine run a little rough, more than normal vibration at idle almost like a small miss. No smoke at idle.
While driving with no/little load on the engine runs great , but under load there is a good amount of white smoke/ oil smell. The turbo is new and is not leaking oil I have already checked over that and the exhaust is new but there is some oil that is at the tail pipe in liquid form. The exhaust up pipe that goes to the turbo is not covered in oil either
The truck cruising in OD or in 3rd with O/D off around 2k rpms it shudders real bad almost like the truck is going to shake its self apart. but at like 2400 rpms and above its fine. Where is a good place to start the diagnosis as I am pretty new to the Diesel world. From what I've read it looks to be either rings are junk or maybe I have some bad injectors (thats what it feels like to me) but would that cause it to smoke like crazy?
My rearmost drive shaft u-joint is bad and has slop. I've been having vibration for about 7-8 months, but just started hearing a noise within the past week, especially when taking off with a load on the drive line (uphill or heavy acceleration). The vibration has not gotten worse, just that the noise has just begun to show itself.
I have one u-joint which is OE and has 275K miles on it, and it seems to be OK at the moment. The other two (including the rearmost unit) both have about 100K miles, as does the center support bearing.
Just because I don't want to worry about anything, I'm going to replace all three u-joints with Moog Super Strength units, and will also replace the Center Bearing with a new Spicer unit... just because I can and don't want to be pecked to death with multiple failures in the same drive line. I ordered the Moog joints because the only Spicer joints I could find were for the 4wd configuration.
That's the context... here's my question... The parts are on order and won't get here for several days. I've been driving the truck like it is at about 1500 miles monthly. Do I continue to drive the truck for another week before getting the joints and bearing installed? I know it's a guess... just looking for more perspective.
Was hauling a bobcat this AM and noticed something odd in my rear view. Under steady accelleration (either light or heavy foot pedal pressure - steady either way), the exhaust would puff out sporadic extreme dark clouds of smoke. The puffs weren't fast like every cylinder rotation.. but every second or so.. puff of very thick black smoke mixed in with the expected black smoke we see.
Truck has 350k miles with regular oil changes. Year ago someone hooked the injectors up to the computer software (buzz test) and all of them checked out to be in very good condition.
The same tech pointed out some dark blowby at the uppipe on the back of the engine. Other than that the truck is in pretty good condition for its age. What could the sporadic very thick/dark puffs of black smoke indicate?
I just installed a new MBRP 5'' exhaust system in my 7.3. I have only put a few miles on the truck since it was installed and I now have a black thick oily residue in the tailpipe. The exhaust system had some sort of oil in it when it was shipped. I remember getting it on my hands when installing it. I think the oil in my tailpipe is just the oil burning out of the exhaust system which mixes with soot that turns it black. When I installed the new up-pipe, the exhaust side of the turbo was dry. Like I said, I haven't ran the truck many miles with the new system yet. A few friends of mine have looked at the exhaust and they think I have a bad turbo seal. I didn't have any oil in the exhaust with the old system. It was sry. My truck has 135,000 miles on the original turbo. I hope my turbo seals aren't bad.
View 7 RepliesRecently I came across a guy parting out his F-250 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Said it had a blown engine, and didn't know what was wrong, but oil was coming out of the exhaust.
My question here is why that's happening. I don't have any experience with the powerstrokes, so I'd like to know what the culprit is before I even consider buying it.
I own a e1999 Ford F350 7.3 4x4 with a Garrett GTP38R turbo. I have been having issues with very little power and pulled an CEL of P0221. I know it's for the APS and have been trying to trouble shoot it as a new APS has not fixed the problem. However, while working on that I just noticed an oil leak appear. I tracked it down and can visibly see it leaking out the top of the passenger side exhaust manifold in two places. It is seeping out the top. Is oil supposed to even be running through here like that?
I recently replaced my up pipes with the newer style bellowed ones. While I had the turbo off I replaced all the o-rings top and bottom and did the EBPV delete on the pedestal. I have been having very little power and cannot the truck over 5-10 MPH and stays at low RPM's so I originally thought it was the leaky up pipes. Those were fixed along with fuel pressure checks which came back good. I then pulled the P0221 code finally. While I had the turbo off I inspected it and it did spin freely and had no side to side play in it.
What was unusual to me was there was a small pooling of oil in the turbo when I took it off. I know the CCV goes through here so some oil is normal. Also, when I was diagnosing the up pipe leak I could see a small amount of oil spraying out the blown donut gasket along with the exhaust gases. I don't think that is normal.
Is there an internal seal in the turbo that can go bad causing oil to spill into my exhaust and possibly leak at the exhaust manifold? Or do I have an internal oil leak from somewhere else?
New up pipe and manifold gasket time!
Massive exhaust leak.. Likely the reason for my 5psi boost.
Wish I had the funds for headers but on the up side, no broken bolts!
I'm having an issue with massive oil consumption and no oil leaks on the ground! No clue where the oils going but I burned more than 2 gallons today in a few hours of driving exhaust smells awful but the truck is running fine.
View 14 Replies