Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 1995 F250 - Factory Remote Keyless Entry Blowing Fuse
May 11, 2005
I have a 95 f-250 psd with factory remote keyless entry. about 3 weeks ago i had a fuse blow that powers the keyless entry module, speed control, and a number of other systems.
If I replaced the fuse it blew right away so i got my wiring diagrams out and started unplugging parts of the circuit and my last attempt was to unplug the keyless entry module. presto no blown fuse so i got a module from a junk yard fixed the problem and now it has happened again. same exact thing. unhook the module and no blown fuse. i took the first module apart and saw no burned parts and no visible damage but here i am blowing fuses with no door locks, dome light and a few other things.
The fuse that blows is fuse 8. I am a mechanic and have full access to anything I need. I have another module under warantee but I want to be sure that its not something other than the module causing problems.
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I have bought a used 1999 F250 4-door 4X4 7.3. Is there any way to tell if my truck came with a remote for the keyless entry. It has power door locks and windows. I was debating on calling my local Ford dealership and seeing if they could check by the VIN number.
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I recently purchased a 1999 F250 S/D v10 5 speed ext. cab and only received one ignition key (no keyless entry fobs).
The truck does not have a keypad on the doors, but if this truck has the remote keyless entry option, how can I tell?
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I am trying to put in after market keyless entry on my 03 sd wired up my relays according to the 5 wire alternating door locks found on this page
[URL]....
but it keeps popping my fuse when I try to put it in, if this is even the correct set up I found another guy on here that used the same set up but never said if it worked or not
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Is it possible to add the factory keyless entry without replacing the complete dash harness? I have an aftermarket unit I can add but I'd rather have oe if possible. Truck is an 2003 f250 v10.
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I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
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I'm putting in a remote starter keyless entry in my 2000 f150 I have all the wires figured out except for the remote start part. Where the wires listed in the photo go? I do have the module required.....
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I have the factory keyless entry on my '03 F-250 SuperCab. I have always had to be within about 5'-8' of my cab to get the doors to lock/unlock. I thought it was normal for the longest time, but recently learned it's not. I am out of warranty now so I need to try and fix this myself. What is the location of the receiver module, and what it looks like? Also, is there an external antenna w/ the factory keyless entry, and where is it at? Transmitters are fine, as is battery power. Only think it could be is receiver/antenna.
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I have a 2001 F-450 SD with 7.3. What the problems would for the blowing of fuse #3. The DLC fuse. I mean I know it goes to the cigarette lighter as well. but when not in use it still blows.
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How do i program my keyless entry remote to my 99 grand am?!?
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If your truck came with the FOB to open the doors remote, but not the keypad on the door, you can add one. Originally the keypad was hard wired and was an expensive option. Several years later the newer keypads were RF signal just like the FOB. If you have or had FOB, then you have the keyless module on the truck (mounted to firewall infront of the emergency brake).. All you have to do is buy the newer style RF keypad, stick it to the door, and program like the FOB. I just did this on a 2002 F150.
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I had a problem with this issue a few months ago, was 45 minutes away from home, blew the fuse to the starter. Switched another one in, blew it too. Had it towed to a shop, they did some diagnostics, felt like it was a short in the starter, replaced it and all has been well (as far as that particular issue) until this morning. Got in it, turned the key it cranked for less than a second and stopped. I pull the fuse, sure enough, blown. Swap it with another, it blows.
I know I have a bare wire in the column, the OD light wire is chaffed, I fixed it before but it must be worn again because I can get it to light up depending on positioning of the shifter lever and as I recall, every time the fuse blows the steering wheel is cranked to the left.
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I have a 2003 Camry I4. My RKE stopped working. First I checked the battery in the remote, it reads 3v like it should. I searched and found how to reprogram the the receiver, so I tried that. I did the door and key dance and got to where when you pull the key out and the door locks lock then unlock. I try pushing the lock and unlock button, then just the lock button as per the instructions and I get nothing. Supposed to get one cycle of the locks if it works and tow cycles if it doesn't. I get neither of those, nothing happens. So I buy a new remote off of eBay (brand new, never used, OEM remote). I try the reprogram door dance again and get the same results. The battery in the new one reads 3v like it should as well. So I go off to a junk yard to replace the receiver door controller, I found one and replaced it and I get the same exact results.
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i have a 99 f350 psd, my problem is i don't have normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: dark green; FONT-FAMILY: inherit">parking</NOBR> and instrument lights, it blows fuse number 8 as soon as i turn the switch on. i checked all the wiring on my tail lights and the trailer hookups. i even disconnected the wiring harness going my tail lights and trailer hookups and it still blows the switch. #8 fuse is trailer tow electronic brake, illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil. it also blows #4 fuse which is trailer tow backup lamps, trailer tow park lamps.
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Upon trying to start my 2003 f250, it keeps blowing the 15A "Transmission Range Sensor then to Starter Relay Coil" fuse. Initially the truck would still start if i did not use the aftermarket Viper keyless start. however, now it doesn't start at all and keeps blowing fuses. I contacted the guy that installed the alarm thinking it might be something on his end. He walked me through reconnecting the factory starter wires which would isolate the issue if it was something on his end. it's still blowing fuses. battery terminals are good and clean.
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Need to diagnose this before I start ripping wires:
Truck started blowing the # 8 fuse under the hood tonight (15 amp #8 - trailer tow electronic brake illumination, park lamps, trailer tow park lamp relay coil fuse) which also controls the dash board lights (can't see gauges at night) and the tail light lights (brakes lights work) are out too. Figure I have a short somewhere.
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I just bought a 2004 Lincoln Town Car . I am trying to find the factory set master code for the keyless entry. Is there a website that I can enter the vin number and obtain the master code?
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I just finished a cab swap and I'm having a little trouble. Here's a link to what I've done : [URL] ....
KOEO the WTS light, battery light, SES light all stay on and no power to fuel pump. No communication with PCM (using AE). All fuses are good, but no power to PCM fuse (#22). When I apply 12v to #22, the truck will start and idle - but poorly because I still don't think fuel pump comes on. The idiot lights all stay the same.
I did get to pull codes while it was running and got stuff like IAT circuit high (its not plugged in), fuel pump relay short to batttery, and a few other short to battery things (park assist stuff IIRC). I thought that might have something to do with the redneck idea to boost the fuse with an external power source?
Just thinking while typing, I don't have 3rd brake light hooked up yet (just thought of that, I'll hook it up first) and bed/bumper are not installed, so no tail lights or park assist stuff is hooked up. I'm also not using overhead computer, so it's not plugged in.
My next step is to go back through all of the connectors and make sure something isn't 1/2 way plugged in or possibly plugged into the wrong place(s).
Looking thru the wiring diagrams is not a strong subject for me, but I was trying to figure out how power gets to the fuse and how PCM relay works (does it complete circuit to ground to energize the coil?).
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My 2006 f-250 just started blowing the #22 fuse when i go over a bump! Where the wire harness is for this. I've checked all the harnesses I could locate that looked like they could be rubbing on something.
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My 'new' 2004 F250 ExtCab SB w/5.4L sometimes 'drops' my keyless entry (key fob) for no apparent reason. Also, when I attempt to do the 'eight turns' of the ignition to get into program mode, it doesn't always work the first time (or second, or third, etc). Is this a common problem?
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As the title states, I have a 05 Sport Trac, just plain Jane. No keyless entry, no remote start, no steering wheel tilt. Just standard. I am wanting to install a Viper 4103 remote start/keyless entry kit to it. I just don't know if I will need any extra parts? I've tried googling and all kinds of stuff but cant find a straight answer. Some sites say I need an immobilizer bypass, some say I don't.
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