Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Steering Box Adjustment Same As Gear Box Adjustment?
Jul 28, 2017
I've searched and can only find instructions/details on 6.4L and older Super Duty trucks. The process is the same to adjust the gear box for a 6.7L?
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What's the best way to access the adjustment nut I can see it through the wheel well but it looks like I would have to take that off the get to it
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My headlights are blinding other motorist an I can't figure out how to adjust them...
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Was wondering if there is a way to adjust the view angle of the back-up camera? Mine appears to be a little off center.
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I have a 03 Solara with the 1MZ that has had the engine replaced with a 02 camry 1MZ. I bought it as a project, and have everything worked out, but I've run into a problem that I need solving. The power steering adjustment bracket is different between the two cars, due to the T-belt tensioner it doesn't have a stud to mount it too. It has the tensioner at a angle, not straight up and down.
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How many have had luck and results adjusting there steering box.I ajusted mine and it corrected the bad wandering proplem. I just hope this will last.
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My buddy has a 97 Ranger 4X4 Automatic. The gear selector has become out of adjustment. To get the truck started you have to pull up on it (the gear selector) and it is getting worse by the drive. I think it is going to leave him stranded in the near future if it is not bought back in to adjustment.
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on my diesel, the steering box has a larger lock nut on top of another smaller (5/8") nut at the lash screw. I was wondering if the lower 5/8" nut might turn with the upper lock nut if I don't also hold it in place? because if the lower nut is fixed to the cover then I don't have to worry about it. I'd just loosen the upper 17mm lock nut so I can make a minor lash adjustment.
It's just that I didn't expect to see both an upper and a lower nut securing the lash screw. I'm beginning to noticed some minor sector shaft play. being that it's a diesel the fan shroud is basically in the way, if I need to use two tools at once, there's not much room in there for two ratchets with extensions. The reason for my concern is that at center I start to see minor drift/bump steer. Haven't looked too deep in the components just yet.
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Is there a way to move the wheel higher than the highest setting? I like to keep the seat at its highest and its difficult getting in and out of the truck.
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My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
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I've got 2003f150 4x4 and had a fender bender front end out of line so had it lined up but steering wheel 180 degrees out..well watched a video about just adjusting drag link..so i crawled under ready to adjust but cant find an adjustment collar. Mine the only one without it?
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My reverse lights and back up alarm will not engage unless i hold up on the shifter while in reverse the only thing i found was a adjuster for the indicator....
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Been monitoring this excellent forum for a while, having taken the plunge last year. The car is stunning, although I have been waiting for a gremlin or two for a while now and it finally seems to have happened.
Having set up the driving position using the excellent forum guide, all was well. Last week, however, the steering column failed to move out from the dash to the memorized position. I have tried manually, to no avail. All other motion - up, down and away appear to be normal, just the switch or motor that moves the column towards the driver.
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At center, my truck is able to turn 2 1/2 revolutions to the right and only 1 1/4 turns to the left. Making sharp left turns is not possible currently. What needs to be adjusted in order to get the steering centered and even?
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On my 2013 GLS i went to adjust the column back to me as my girlfriend drove on saturday night (octoberfest ) and as i pulled it back out the car shut off. i pushed it back in a little and the car started fine and has until i tested the issue again this morning when i got to work. i moved it about half way out and the radio shutoff. moved it a little more and the whole car shut off. it will not start until i push it back in some.
I am thinking that a cannon plug or something is either too short or routed wrong or something to that effect as i have the ignition on the column instead of the push button.
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How can I replace a broken steering adjustment handle on a 1999 Grand Am?
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I am searching for any kind of adjustment that might enable me to force the clutch level to the positive stop. It stands off about an 1/8" to 3/16" and I think is the reason I am not getting engagement in first gear, it slips heavily but fine in all other gears. The key way on the the lever prevents me from moving it a notch or two if I thought I could and don't know if that's even the answer . I can't figure out what is preventing it from returning fully on its own I can push it by and and a little fluid will squirt from the reservoir. Ive replaced the slave cylinder and bled it.
Is there any adjustment under the dash? This is a 2001 elantra that I just put a 2000 trans 5 speed.
My original plan was to pull the parts from the 2000 and replace in the 2001. I had lost 1st and 5th totally and found a 2000 that went right in with some minor mtr mnt mods. It shifts just fine except for this 1st gear thing. I saw a video and am having second thought about that move. I dont really want to pull the trans out again.
1st gear just keep slipping. new clutch kit installed when I swapped them out. It feels like a linkage thing somewhat but I cant find adjust ment to tryout.
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My steering wheel, when pulling away or towards me (reach) is juddery/squeaky. I think its the 'rubber bead/dust seal' under the instrument binnacle rubbing on the plastic steering column shroud as it moves in and out. It works and doesn't sound slow and the motor does not sound under strain, its just noisy as the shroud does not run smoothly against the 'rubber bead'.
Up and down (rake) is quiet.
To lubricate the plastic is silicone lubrication spray the way to go? Or is there another lubricant and/or quick & easy way to get it to not squeak.
Its not a big deal, but it would be nice to have it working properly when I get in and out.
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I have a 2000 Ford F-350, I can only adjust the mirrors (both) in one direction, (to the left only) the up and down movement works also.
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When using the power lumbar adjustment in the seat back of my wifes 08 eddie bauer explorer, it stopped moving and I now hear a snapping / popping noise from the seat back. Is there any way to remove leather seat cover to check out what might have come loose or broke?
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So I can successfully set the height at which the tailgate should stop, and in fact, the "power" function seems to stop there. But once the motors stop doing their thing, it just keeps slowly creeping up, as though the gas pressure in the struts is too strong for the tailgate weight. It's brand new, so this wouldn't be surprising. But is that the way it's supposed to work? If so, what's the point of setting a height at all? In my case, I want it top stop just a couple inches before hitting my garage door.
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