Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Key Fob Remote Not Unlocking
Jun 27, 2015
My key fob remotes decided to quit working today, both of them simultaneously. which I thought was weird but I went ahead and put new batteries in both of them and they still don't work. I did a little research and figured out how to do the on off key thing 8 times to reprogram the key. I was able to get the truck to enter the programming mode, but when pressing the lock button on the fobs while in programming mode nothing happened with either key. my truck is a 2011 6.7 liter lariat.
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I've been told that manually unlocking the front hubs on my '15 F350 dually, might just improve milage. Any concerns about the axle lubrication from being unlocked for extended periods of time? I rarely need the 4WD.
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I have 2 fully functioning keys but I am looking at trying to program a miscut key I got for my truck just for the fob. What Id like to do is basically leave my key in the ignition and have a FOB with the actual key cut off so it is only the head containing the fob. I can remote start the truck, unlock the doors and then get in a use the key in the ignition as normal. I just hate the hugs key on my key ring. Is there a way to program the key fob, not the PATS key. Its miscut so thats not an option.
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I just bought a 01 f250 and started to hear/feel thia ticking/rattling noise. I have read a couple forums on the matter but I'm not really sure on what to replace ?
[URL].....
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I am sure some of use around the forums have seen some of Diesel Tech Ron's videos, well in this video he is installing one of Bulletproof Diesel's remote Oil Coolers on a 6.0
Bulletproof Diesel's remote mounted oil cooler install on a 6.0 Powerstroke - YouTube
I like the idea of these if you ever have to do any work on the Oil cooler or replace it it would make it pretty quick and you don't have top spend a day tearing the engine apart
I haven't hear of too many people having issues with remote coolers set up's like this. Maybe there are some remote oil coloer owners that have em that can shed some light on how they have worked so far on their 6.0's ...
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2 1/2 years ago I installed a BPD remote oil cooler with BPD filter. The stock oil cooler was clogging up for the second time and didnt want to chance it. The BPD oil cooler works great. I have never seen high oil temps in any driving condition. Last week I was replacing the hubs and seals on the front of the excursion and noticed the oil was leaking from the 90 at the end of the hose oil filter location. I called BPD and sent them a picture. The 90 is corroded and is failing. They said something about a 2 year warranty but because of the rust they would not send one out for free. I purchased a new hose and the other 90 that goes right after it.
They recommended that I spray it with undercoating or something. I live in upstate NY and deal with a lot of salt on the roads in winter. I do keep the truck clean in winter as much a possible. I am posting this so if there are any others in similar situation you should do something to prevent that 90 from rusting like mine did. If I had known this when we installed it prob would not be replacing it now. Will be replacing it tonight or tomorrow. BPD said I will need a 1 1/4 crow foot or remove the turbo to get to the other end of the hose. Not posting this to bash on BPD just sharing so any others can prevent this part from rusting out.
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So just recently my remote start quit working. It's worked fine for the last two years. Now after I hit the buttons the truck just honks. I tried going through the setup on the dash and turning it off and back on. Still just honks at me.
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I bought and installed the remote start last weekend, cut the keys and programmed them. all thats left is to activate. i have access to a snapon modif computer, can activate it with this or something similar, or does the dealer HAVE to do it?
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What option level has remote start as standard?
Or is it an add on option?
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When I bought my truck it had a ford remote start in it. This has only happened like 2-3 times.. when I remote start right after my truck starts there is this huge screech and obviously it worries me.
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Fast idle 6.7 when cold remote start. My GM had what could be called a auto fast idle when it was cold it idle a lot faster.
It appears my 2012 f350 does not , Ford dealer said he could install a fast idle using one of the switches.
And then if I park truck with park brake on and switch on it when I start it will fast idle to around 1300.
My question is being if truck is started by remote , will not this switch be off and by being off fast idle will not work , is this not the case?
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I recently did the high idle mod but as many of you know it does not work with remote start. I found the below link on how to make it work with rewiring how the aux switches receive power. Are the aux switches hot all the time even with the key off?
[URL] ....
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Had a lot of snow in the North East last week. Tried to use the remote start three times without any luck. Cleaned off the windshield and it worked. At best the remote is a weak system with very little range. How to use it or make it work better?
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I have read countless threads and have done research and can't figure out my issue. Had remote start installed in the truck a month ago. The day it was installed sensors were working. I left the shop and went to back in and noticed they didn't work and the light popped when in reverse and sometime it will the random beeping. I did the check and found the inner right sensor was not buzzing. So ordered four from eBay and it still doesn't work. I even switched one of the others out thinking it was the eBay special issue. It didnt work so it's just that sensor. Now what? I have checked the wiring under the truck and it all looks good. What's my next step? Could the remote start have taken just one sensor out?
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2015 with 35,200K on the OD. All stock! Hasn't been modded in any way.
I've been throwing a P04DB ,only, code off and on for awhile now. And now, it's constant. I know there is a couple of other codes that can go along with this but I'm not getting them.
I've somewhat started tracking when the code would return after clearing it. In the last 2 days, I've cycled the engine on and off with the key only and no code.
It appears, that the only time the P04DB code sets is when I use the remote start. I'm still testing this theory but so far that's what seems to be happening.
I'm wondering if there is a slight voltage change when using the remote start that is causing this issue? I've read where this issue is not only a 6.7 issue or even just limited to Ford.
The other thing that really sucks about this issue is if the sensor is bad you just can't get a new sensor, you have to buy the whole crank case vent filter housing too. Brilliant I say, just brilliant.
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I've had the Ford Remote Access installed on my pickup for over a year now and it's worked great up until about a week ago when I changed cell phone providers from AT&T to Verizon. Now when trying to use the app I get the error code 00011000. I up-dated the app to reflect the new carrier but it still doesn't work. And yes, my subscription to the service is current. What I need to do to get this working again, with winter just around the corner I'd sure like to have this functional again. I figured I'd give the forum a shot before I resort going to the dealer.
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It would be nice if you could have the rear seat heaters come on with the remote start, but only when you knew you would want them on. Like tonight 5 of us are going out and it will be hours and in the 20's when we get back to the truck. Where I park in the lot is at the limit of the remote start so it is farther than I want to walk to manually turn them on (plus doesn't that defeat the purpose of remote start.)
I was hoping that if they were powered on when I shut the truck down, they may come on at restart but nope. I tried a few combos of truck running on remote, and with the key. Is there a secret way by chance?
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2015 KR. want to install a high idle kit controlled by an upfitter. If I remote start the truck with the upfitter left on, will that switch be powered while the truck is remote started, activating my high idle?
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I have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
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I have a 2013 F-150 SCREW, I have an issue with my doors not unlocking with the remote and the inside door switch. It happens intermittently and not with the same doors.
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I have a 2012 XLE that I bought brand new in 2012 and twice this week I had locking/unlocking problems.
The first one was mid-week. I pressed the unlock button on the fob and the car beeped multiple times instead of a standard 2 beeps. I heard the locks unlock but could not open the driver's door. It felt as if the lock was stuck. I even tried the mechanical key that's hidden inside the fob and the same result. I then opened the passenger door and got in and moved the lock back and forth a few times and then everything worked fine.
Earlier this morning, I had the opposite problem. I could not lock the car using the fob. Had to do it manually like back in the day.
Can the battery or contacts in the fob be slowly going out? Should I start using my other fob? Should I have the dealership look into it?
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