I have a AC Delco 3 1/2 ton that will blead down faster than I could get a jack stand under the truck. Not that I've tried. Just curious where to go from here without wasting more money.
View 14 RepliesHave a 2012 F250 4x4. Have read many posts about different lifts etc. I don't want to go real big but I would like to go to a larger tire than the stock Michelins.
On a F250, done a 2 inch front leveling kit and switched out the rear blocks to F350 blocks. Assuming I wanted to put new shocks on with this change, what level kit and what adjustable track bar (from what i've read this is pretty much required).
When installing front lift shackles, do you place jack stands under the axle, or the frame? I can't really find an answer. I assumed the axle, but i saw a thread and from what i could see it looked like it was supported at the frame and the axle was hanging free in the air. Just want to be sure before i start unbolting the stock shackles tomorrow and kill myself.
View 14 RepliesThis is my first winter with my 05 F250 that has the 4wd controls on the floor. I'm just trying to figure out the proper way to put in in and out of 4wd. I did some reading and everyone talks about engaging the hubs, but my truck seems to have automatic hubs because the selector Is not on the outside of the hubs. Am I missing something obvious or am I just reading the wrong things. When I bought it at the end of summer, we tried 4wd out but only for a second and it would grind and be generally unhappy when we were doing it (while driving slow, and complete stop to go to low).
View 14 RepliesOn my way into work this morning I had one of those everybody needs to stop NOW moments. Hit the brakes hard, really hard with wheels chirping and all, after i got mostly slowed down the pedal gave way and went to the floor. I let up and pushed again and they were fine, but at that point I didn't need to hit them that hard again. The rest of the way in they worked fine braking normally, and before hand as well.
I'm thinking the master cylinder is going bad. Any tips on diagnosing for sure?
No matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
View 8 RepliesEver since I've had this truck my parking brake has acted like this. My buddy has an '03 and his acts the same, but I figured I'd ask the question.
9 times out of 10 to set the parking brake, the pedal goes almost to the floor and doesn't seem like it really does anything. The other 1 out of 10 it goes half way and feels like it actually sets. Is this normal?
Doing some suspension work this weekend. Wondering where the best place for jacking up my truck (99 f250 SD 4wd). I need to take the U bolts off so I can't put the jack there. I've got a 2 ton, 3 ton, and 25 ton jack. Only one stand. I need the whole rear end jacked up at the same time. Same for the front. I've heard your not supposed to place the jack on the pumpkin. Is it OK to just jack it up by the axle and put the stand as close to the outside as possible?
View 14 Replies2005 f250 240,000 mile has been hard starting a couple of days in the low 20's. Fires and stalls, got it start the first time it acted up but had to long crack with throttle to the floor. A week later would not start at all again fired and stalled. Plugged it in for 2 hours and fired right up. I had the FICM replace at about 150K and all glow plugs at 130K I will check it this weekend. Am I looking at another ficm or something else? Whats the trick to getting them started when they fire and stall. Need to go on a trip and can't plug truck in at airport and temps will be in the teens next week!
View 14 RepliesTrying to track down a vibration issue. Not steering. But, idling in gear and driving. I feel the vibration through the go pedal and floor board and seat on driver side.
Checked obvious points. Down pipe, complete exhaust system. Motor mounts, tranny mounts and steering.
Got to be some other spot I'm missing. Checked driveshafts. Everything seems OK.
Need to check a rear brake tomorrow. I looked around the side of the car and there doesn't appear to be a flat spot for a floor jack. There is an area that looks bent like someone used a floor jack there but not sure it is the right place to lift. I have the factory manuals and they don't point to the locations either.
View 1 RepliesI recently lowered my car and installed some CF side skirts, but when I went to go do an oil change, my floor jack barely fit under the car, and when I started jacking it up, it started applying pressure to my CF sideskirt. I was cringing as I was watching it flex, hoping it wouldn't cause the clear coat to "web".
I ended up finding a couple blocks of wood, and drove up on them to get the car an extra inch higher off the ground, but my CF side skirt was still meeting my floor jack. Those of you who are lowered with side splitters/skirts.
I have a 2011 F250 4X4 Supercab 6.7L that has a highly annoying knock/rattle (you can't hear it) under the front passenger side floor. It feels like someone is tapping on the floor beneath your feet any time you hit a bump or when on a rough road.
Its been in at least 5 times in 2 yrs with cab mount adjustments/shims, cab mount replacements and realignment of the exhaust and brackets. The knock has been there since about day one (I assume anyway, I'm rarely on that side of the cab) and have burned up my 36k warranty, although I'm told i'm good because it is pre-existing.
I keep insisting its in the suspension and keep being told they can't find anything. The mechanic indicated that this is a known problem, but Ford has not put out any service bulletins other than to do the cab mounts and suspension. Has anyone had this problem and found the solution?
Just purchased a new 2015 and it came with the cargo net option. The net stores in a bag that is anchored to the rear trunk wall. When I try to access the spare tire I can't lift the floor panel that covers the well. The cargo bag overlaps the solid floor panel and won't let it lift. I tried removing the net from the bag to make the bag more flexible but it still blocks any attempt to lift the trunk floor panel.
There must be a way to do this and I'm just too dumb to see it right now. I was able to finally lift the panel with a combination of tucking, twisting, and cursing my way through it. Surely I'm overlooking something obvious?
If the cargo net bag would just unclip then the problem would be solved. But it appears to be screwed into place.
I am installing a fuel pressure gauge into my 02 7.3 I went to the thread the sensor into the plug hole on the fuel filter housing and it wasn't threaded, turns out the sensor thread is slightly smaller and a different thread ... The directions say to install it into the filter housing or the lift pump ... So I'm assuming I have to go the lift pump direction of installing it but where the lift pump is or how to install the sensor into it while not throwing a code or causin problems ... A step by step and even pictures.
View 14 RepliesI have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
View 2 RepliesI bought a 2002 body with a late 99 engine with lower miles a couple years ago. I knew it had an oil leak when I bought it. My other truck had a turbo pedestal leak. This truck has a small pedestal leak but it's not that much of an issue as there is little oil in the valley and next to nothing running down the back of the engine.
The other leak is getting worse. It has been leaking somewhere up front and coats the main steering arm off the steering box, the lower rad hose and the rest of the steering linkage. Last night after driving around 100 Kms I have oil running out from under the engine across the floor.
I changed the LPOP after thinking the front leak was from there. Unfortunately i don't think it was.
I am hoping it's the oil cooler and not the HPOP. One other thing is before yesterday's trip, I installed my homemade ccv mod off my other truck. I don't think the leak is coming from that either.
Okay I'm also having issues with vibrations on the floor board. I replaced the carrier bearing last week and not sure if correctly done or maybe I didn't get the splines in the exact order they came out in but the vibration is still there if not worse. I was thinking I could order a new rear drive shaft for around 350.00? would it matter how it was installed?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 7.3 and I have a hypertech Max Energy Programmer set to stage 3 in my truck right now (100 HP). I noticed last night when I was going up hill and had my foot to the floor the truck would hesitate for a minute and then lag before it was would catch up to itself. I did it again on some flat ground and noticed when it did do that my boost gauge would get to 20 and then fall to Zero. If I start out and gradually get to the floor without punching it the truck drive fine. How to fix it?
View 2 RepliesIn my 99 with a zf6 it seems like when I push the clutch to the floor it's not disengaging all the way. It has a newer valair clutch in it maybe 15000 miles on it. It's really hard to get the truck in reverse or first from a stop. If the truck is stopped and it's in reverse or first with the clutch to the floor it will move in that gear. Is there a adjustment on the clutch? I'm thinking no since its hydraulic....
View 14 RepliesWhat is failing. I have a 2000 F350 PSD with 116k miles. When I bought the truck last year, I noticed that the clutch pedal would squeak while it was coming off the floor. It doesn't happen when the engine is cold. I need to drive it about 30 min before it starts to happen. On longer trips, several hours, the squeaking is louder and the pedal gets very stiff. When I stop for fuel, I've come close to stalling when coming out of 1st gear. I can push the pedal to the floor, but on the way up, the pedal squeaks, and then once I reach a certain point, say 3-4 inches off the floor, the pedal looses all freeplay. The best way for me to describe it is the pedal travels up faster than it normally does when it's cold, and if I don't compensate with more throttle at that point, it will stall.
I've learned a lot by reading this forum for the past year, but I don't know the first thing about how to diagnose problems like this. I've taken it to 2 mechanics for test rides -- one thinks the clutch is fine and thinks the problem is the slave cylinder or a broken bushing in the pedal.
The other shop is also a small independent shop, but they specialize exclusively in Ford trucks, so I thought they would be more knowledgeable. But now I'm wondering if they could sense my ignorance and are taking advantage of the situation. They also took it for a drive, but they think the slave cylinder is fine and that the clutch needs to be replaced. I questioned him about the slave, and he pulled it to look at it, and asked me to push the pedal slowly while he was under the truck. I still had a little resistance and a faint squeak even in this situation. But he said the hydraulics are so simple that he felt we could rule that out. I can't remember exactly what he said, but I think he believes one of the springs in the clutch plate has failed. I just know they are suggesting a new clutch and they want to machine the flywheel to original specs.
I thought the leading symptom of a failing clutch was slippage under a load. So under strain, I would expect my engine to race occasionally, like I'm in neutral. But I've NEVER experienced anything remotely like this, even when driving hard in the hills pulling my travel trailer.
I know something is wrong, but based on my limited knowledge, I'm not sure what. It's getting a little harder for me to move the shifter into 1st and reverse, but once it's there it's fine. I've never experienced any racing or slippage in any gear. The one definite symptom I have is that squeaky pedal that when driven for a couple of hours, gets so stiff that it can cause near stall outs. With those symptoms, what do you think is going wrong?