Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Won't Getting Rear Sway At All - Normal?
Jul 28, 2015
I wasn't sure if I should be having any sway at all while pulling our new 30' TT. Dry wieght is 7200lbs, GVW is right at 9500lbs, tongue weight is around 800lbs, and I'm running a Fastway E2 WDH with sway control built in. While towing this weekend, I was experiencing a very slight amount of sway. It wasn't what I considered to be much of an issue but my wife and daughter both asked why the truck felt as if it was moving side to side slightly. When I say slightly, imagine a small glass of water filled about 1/4" from the top. The sway wouldn't have been enough to spill the water, but enough to sway it slightly back and forth. Winds were about 3-8mph hitting me from the north west (in relations to my trucks heading).
I do have some suspension enhancements that might have contributed to the sway. I have roughly increased the rear end by 4" by adding add-a-leafs and F350 blocks. I have Fox 2.0 shocks and a Helwig Bigwig sway bar. Plus I'm running 295 Nitto Trail grapplers , all 4 at 80psi. I've read that the more aggressive tires could also be a contributor.
My question ultimately is: should I be feeling any sway at all? Is a very slight amount of sway normal when pulling a 30' 9500lb rear hitch pull?
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I've done a ton of searches and everyone talks about the 250 rear blocks being 2 inches. I got under my truck the other night and my factory blocks measured to just shy of 4 inches. It seems like everyone says that those blocks only come with the 350s...
is there some sort of package that I might have to come factory with the larger rear blocks?
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My truck is all stock and I am running in performance tune? And my friend the former owner said I need to let her loose about 75 percent of the time I am driving it because it's my DD and I do not tow anything on a regular basis. I do not want to stretch my bolts by unnecessary pushing, I don't know if I'm even pushing it hard but I normally get the turbo up to about 30 psi is that to much?
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I have an early 04, I'm not sure if there's a different in pressure over the years. But I'm curious what normal or average readings are. Btw I did replace the icp and pig tail last year. Here is what I have in psi from my sct
Cold start at idle 680 .23v
Warm idle 635 .24v
Cruising 1800rpms about 1500 .32v
WOT about 4200 .78v
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It takes about 10 minutes for the truck to drive normal. If I start the truck and sit for 5 minutes, then start driving... the truck has a very hard time changing gears and accelerating. Just trying to see if this is normal or not ?
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Decided to try and swap in LED bulbs into the sub par factory headlights and since some engineer somewhere decided it would be easier for me to have to remove the grill and headlights just to change a bulb, I noticed that the dual horn set up had the horns pointing back to the truck. Even worse, right in front of all the fins on the CAC, Raidator, etc. to reduce muffle the sound.
Now I don't know how things are where you live, but generally when I honk at someone, I'm not doing it so I can hear my own horn. The general idea I thought was so that others could hear my horn.
Of course the same engineers in charge of headlight bulb swaps also figured out the wiring for the horns so you can't just loosen the nuts (10 mm) and rotate said horns 180 degrees. You can rotate the driver side horn 180 degrees and call it good, but the factory wiring won't reach the passenger side horn if you rotate it.
You can however remove both horns and use a small screwdriver to unplug the harness that joins the two horns. If you swap the horns right to left and left to right, then you can put the factory wiring back together in a manner that leaves the horn outlets pointing forward towards others.
I can't insert pics into the thread as I describe things. I used to do that but FTE seems to have gotten rid of my gallery so I can't upload to there anymore and then post photos in the thread that way. So now you get them uploaded as attachments at the end of my rambling.
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What the normal tire pressures are so the TPS will not alarm? The sticker on the door says 65 front and 80 rear for my F-350, but I think this is a bit high when empty or not pulling trailers, etc. Additionally, is there anyway to adjust the TPS settings?
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I currently have a 2003 F-250 6.0 with 112,000 miles on it. While traveling interstate speeds (70+) and the I can hear the cooling fan rev up and down every 10-15 seconds. Is this normal?
Also when it spins up, it sounds normal then make a high pitched squealing noise. Thoughts?
I am also needing to rebuild the fuel bowl. I noticed DieselOrings offers rebuilds for the 7.3 but not the 6.0. Will these fit or any suggestions on parts?
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I'm having a bit of a cold start issue, need to know if it is normal or something is wrong. I live in southern Indiana and it's gotten down to a VERY cold 50 degrees (lol) and the past two mornings I have started it up and it seems to have a misfire first thing in the morning and it will kick into high-idle mode and after I shut it off and start it back up about 20 seconds later after the ECT gets above 100* and it runs perfectly. It has brand new 190/100 injectors from Warren, an IDP tune, and I am running 13 quarts of FoMoCo 15w-40 oil with 2 quarts of hot shot stiction eliminator (tried it before installing new injectors). And also throwing no codes. Is this normal or should I be looking for a problem?
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I have a 12 cc 4x4 drw. I hauled a bull and a cow about 100 miles this morning. I was pullling approx 6k including the trailer. The temp was about 75*. 50-60 miles into the trip I switched to the oil temp screen and the oil temp was 224* and the trannie was 199*. I was going into the wind which was about 20 mph, and I was traveling 75mph. The truck never lugged down heck it never shifted out of 6th gear. When I unloaded the cattle the temp came back down around 190*. Headed home and the temp got up to 226* and the tranni went to 205*. This was going with the wind and just the trailer. I am using oem 10w-30 motorcraft and motorcraft filters. The truck just has 9k miles on it. I am thinking that the oil temp is a little warm, should I be worried. What should I look for to diagnose. I like to do my own diagnosing if I can, the dealers around me can't find anything wrong even if you point the leak out to them. Should I be using a different oil?
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I know it seems like everyone's truck tends to have different tolerances when it comes to when it starts and stops regen when it comes to gpl but the last two times my truck has gone into regen it starts at 100% and finishes at 25%. Is it normal to stop regen when it gets to 25% or should it be stopping at 0%. Or could it be that the percentage in my truck is off and it's actually using the gpl to start and Stop? The only thing about that is that forscan says it's supposed to start at 100% which it does so if my percentage is off that would mean it was starting at 75% does it not?
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Took a trip today that was 3 hours there and 3 hours back. Truck ran normal on the way there (eot about 202 and ect about 196-198), but on the way back truck ran a little hotter than normal (ect as high as 214 eot stayed within 2-3* plus or minus ect). Fan did kick on every time I hit ect of 212 and would drop it down to 196-198 and oil temp would drop at the same rate.
Truck is stock 190k miles with a bulletproof egr cooler and coolant filter. Oil cooler probably has about 20k on it. (4th one on this truck- since I like changing them out as much as the rest of us). I checked coolant level when I got home and I might've added a pint to get to bottom of sticker. I'm not sure it wasn't a pint low when I did last flush and cooler replacement.
No puking and I can't find any leaks. I pulled egr valve and no moisture in manifold just a worm out o ring that'll I'll replace. I can't find any leaks. Where to check that I haven't? I don't feel like I'm losing coolant because I wasn't really low. My fan never failed to kick on when I hit 212 or stopped at a red light. No moisture in manifold so I'm not thinking losing coolant due to head gasket. Maybe radiator looks ok but tomorrow I will blow out any bugs to make sure.
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OK, long story short. I had P2284 code on my scan gauge after replacing the oil cooler. I contributed it to air in the oil system. Sure enough, a few days of hard driving and the code went away.
Now a week later, I fired up my truck on a cold start yesterday morning. It's not that cold here(low 40's in the morning), but the oil started off at about 50F. Correspondingly, ICP at is higher, at around 1000(it's like this every morning until oil warms up). I usually let it warm up a tad before driving but yesterday I didn't, and hit the gas pedal a little hard once and the truck started acting like it does when you get this code.
Sure enough, check scan gauge and the code is there. I drive home(about 15 minutes). A half hour later I start the truck up, check codes, and it's back to normal. Of course, oil temps were higher and ICP in the normal range between 580-590.
So is this normal? Since it doesn't trigger a CEL I assume it's more of a system parameters code? Only other thing I can think of, if this isn't normal, is a mucked up IPR screen from when I installed my BPD oil cooler.
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I'm new to the 6.7 so I'm still learning as much as I can. I recently added the exhaust filter screen to the display using forscan. I had a regen yesterday. I drove the truck until the exhaust filter displayed 0% full. I've driven about 130 miles today and noticed the exhaust filter is now 50% full. That seems really quick to fill halfway up in so few miles. Is this normal? If not what would cause it? I'm really entertaining the idea of deleting the rocket ship under the truck.
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I have noticed that my truck will crank longer than normal when i park backed into my drive way but it only does it every now and then. I am guessing an internal oil leak but it starts fine cold or hot.
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I had a '11 and when I turned the key on all the gauges would sweep across and then go to normal position. My '14 does not is that normal ?
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Having engine knock after sitting all day or over night with only 4K miles on it until temp comes up to normal...
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I know that average normal tranny temps for the new 6.7s are 200 degrees give or take which my truck does as well. but I'm wondering about how long is normal for the tranny temp to get up to that normal range? My truck can take anywhere from 20 minutes to almost an hour depending on if I'm on highway vs lower speed driving and it's been that way since I bought it. Am I worrying over nothing or my worries not just worries?
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When I fire her up, the AC will blow cold for 10ish minutes until everything is up to normal operating temperature. Then it tends to blow warm, and that last for about 20 minutes, before finally settling back down and being cold AC again. I initially thought it was an issue with my compressor disengaging, but it doesn't seem to be...
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I just took my new (to me) 2012 F350 out for it's first real tow job; pulled our 9,500lb travel trailer up and over the Sierra Nevada Mountains for a week long camping trip.
Under load, I started to smell a burning metal/paint smell in the cab, to the extent that I was wondering if something was wrong. All of the gauges were fine, and there was no unusual smell under the hood.
My wife discovered the floor on the passenger side was hot to touch (directly above the exhaust), and it actually started to melt a few plastic items in her purse.
I did just have the EGR valve replaced after it threw a code; not sure if there's some coating on the new one that could be burning off.
Isit normal for the floorboard to be that hot when working thes trucks?
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I know I have a clogged oil cooler and normally I'm not home much during the summer months to know how it does during the summer. The outside temperature is around 95*, but the thermostat on the Ex is reading from 102 to 112, and it actually read 122 yesterday. Also, with the hot weather, I'm not noticing the fan kicking on under normal driving without a load. The AC is working, but it's not the ice cold AC I'm use to and does get better while cruising down the highway.
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