Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: When Put Into Reverse Buzzer Came On And Stayed On
Jan 2, 2013
Ok, It was -17 this morning. I had my truck plugged in and got in this morning and it started rite up. BUT, there was a warning light on, in the dash. The light that looks like a engine block. So, I drive by the dealer and ask him what it is. Hes tells me that the Def is frozen and when it thaws out the warning light will go off. So, I drive around pretty much all day today, but the temps didn't get above 5 degrees all day. Got home and the warning lights was still on. Another thing, when I went to put her into reverse the buzzer came on and stayed on. Guess it frozen too. You colder area guys have this same problem?
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On a 2012 ford f350. We put on a tommylift gate and took off bumper with sensors. We added sensors to tommylift, now constant beeping in reverse because of location of sensors. Is there any way to permanently disable the revese buzzer??
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On a 300 mile round trip yesterday the service engine icon came on and stayed on. This happened once before last December after I bought my used 012 250 6.7. I took it back to the ford place and a mechanic cleared it on the gauges. This truck has correct oil and fluid levels. How to clear? It has been 4000 miles since they changed the oil and filters an I want to go a couple more K miles before I change it myself...
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Having that flash on the dash? Truck was running fine and the buzzer when off and dash said I think -- when safe stop and shut off engine immediately. Scared the scr-p out of me so not sure if that was word for word. Jump on the binders and got it off the road and called a wrecker. Now it's at the dealer waiting for them in the morning. Checked oil and don't see any leaks. Now I have lost my confidence in the truck. 42000 miles on it.
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So i had been up in the woods for better half of the day. I had been in 4wd a few times, didn't thrash on anything and while driving home about 30mins into the return trip on the pavement i noticed my speedo only showing 10mph. I know i was easily going 50mph. I changed my SGII gauge to show MPH and sure enough i was going way faster. Eventually the needled dropped to zero and stayed that way for at least 5 miles. Then I came to a stop to and made a right turn giving it a bit of throttle and the speedo began to work correctly and did so for the remaining 5 miles. the Odom also during that time wasn't adding mileage. could this be from the rear sensor ontop of the rear diff?
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I have a new issue that started last Friday. When I put the truck in gear and let it begin to pull itself, drive or reverse, it has a strange jerking or slipping deal. It doesn't happen every time but when it does you can feel it in the drivetrain. I took it to the shop that did the motor work and they ran a diagnosis(while I watched) on the motor and its turns up nothing. It runs perfect, shifts like it always has, but just has this jerking/slipping thing when I let off the brake and it starts to pull itself.
If I go from brake to throttle its fine. I had the rearend diff worked on to fix the leaky ring and pinion seal and the differential cover sealed at the dealer last month. I searched and don't see anything like what I am experiencing. Could my tranny be giving it up now? It has never been overworked and never overheated. I had the full fluid service done at about 70k and now it has about 130k on it.
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I am using my son's truck this week, 2012 F250, 120,000 miles or so. I left it running in the drive while I got something from inside the house. Guess it was idling approximately 10 minutes. When I put it in reverse the transmission would not shift and the truck didn't move. I killed it, re-cranked it and it went in reverse.
As I was driving down the road the transmission would change gears up and down for no reason. I stopped the truck, and put it in park. I would put it in drive and the transmission sounded like it wanted to slip. I put it back in park and the transmission would not engage. I then killed the truck, re-cranked it, and it drove fine for awhile and started doing it again,
I kill the truck, re-crank it, and we go down the road.
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2011, 69,000 miles. My truck is experiencing very hard shifts from park to drive or park to reverse after a cold soak. It goes away once warmed up. I can't find any excessive driveline play and my transmission fluid level appears fine and in good condition.
The last repair done on my truck was around 7,000 miles ago and it was for a transmission fluid leak around the bell housing. They just replaced the seal between the torque converter and transmission.
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I'm having problems with my 6r140 in my 2011, the truck is an early build around 8/2010 I believe.
After cold soak when shifting into reverse after allowing engine to warm a bit the transmission almost always slams hard into reverse.
After that shifting from 1-3 is awful, the transmission will try to go into 3rd but downshift to 1st then fail to go back into 3rd multiple times. This situation is extremely dangerous when trying to pull into traffic.
Oh and once the transmission gets into 3rd it will skip 4th and go right into 5th. There is only 94k miles on this transmission/truck.
I just bought this truck about a month ago, does this sound like an issue with the solenoids in the valve body?
I'm very mechanically inclined and can swap them if need be but now we're talking few hundred in solenoids and then getting the trucks pcm flashed right?
Also fluid has been changed and I used mercon lv.
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Reverse lights not coming on, and parking sensor stuck at ' OFF ' , have replaced switch to no avail
Any tips out there ?
2005 6.0 Supercab Lariat diesel Auto 4 wd
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What is the source of the sound? Listen for the clunk b/w 3 and 4 seconds. I just dropped off my 2016 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x2 at the dealership. I'm afraid that they will say the sound is a characteristic but I never had the sound on my 2011 Super Duty 6.7 CC LB 4x4. This sound happens when I go from drive to reverse or when using the exhaust brake when towing. The sound does not exist when the transmission is cold only when it is fully hot. It will also make this noise when climbing a really steep hill in first gear with fiver and the torque converter needs to slip a little.
As far as I can tell all of the u joints are tight and the axial support is tight I only have 2000 miles on my truck.
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05 F-350 6L .. Automatic Transmission
When I got the truck I noticed it would slam hard into reverse. Ever since it is taking longer to engage reverse gear and now I have to rev it to 1000 rpms for it to engage with a hard SLAM.
I also noticed that if I do a fast take off, there is a knocking sound coming from drive shaft/differential area (like knock knock knock knock knock then goes away). Then a slight vibration ending at around 30 kph (~20 MPH). There is also some oil leaking from the transmission. I added some mercon sp yesterday - it was a bit low.
My guess for the knocking and vibration is the center support bearings and U-joints. Transmission??? One thing I know I am going to be banging away at that shaft but the transmission problem really scares me.
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I picked up a 2016 F250 Powerstroke in the first of March. I owned a 2011 before and loved it.
The 2016 has been great so far, but I've noticed a sound that wasn't present in my 2011.
When the transmission is warmed up, I get a "cla-click" sound from the transmission area when sifting from park to reverse. It doesn't do it all the time and I can only hear it, not "feel" it.
This AM I heard a similar click sound when I came to a complete stop. I only heard it while stopping, not while taking off. I could repeat it almost every time I stopped. I was in drive the whole time I heard the click sound while stopping.
What it may be? I know sounds are one of the hardest things to communicate/diagnose.
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So I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
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A few days ago after returning from a trip, my wife backed the car out of the driveway and we heard a loud high pitched squeal the whole time we were in reverse. It almost sounds like a weeee noise or a buzzer of some kind. She says that occasionally while driving with the window down she has heard additional noises.
As if the car is trying hard. She said today when she pulled into the garage she heard the a similar noise while stopping. Now, this noise is nothing I've ever heard before on any car. It isn't like a normal brake squeal or anything like that.
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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1992 Honda Accord with 104,000 miles automatic transmission..was my mom's car and has been consistently maintained and serviced and gently driven!!The car performs well until...about 3 weeks ago when it starting revving up and the D4 light stayed on even when I was in reverse. Idling high and Drove like the car was in high gear.
Mechanic #1 checked the gear position switch and checked connection at Trans ECM. After unplugging and re-pluging in connector system functioned properly. And it did for about one week. then we were back to the same problem and it was clear that the car was not shifting like it should.
Mechanic #2 didn't provide much feedback: he emphatically stated that it was a transmission problem and that the trans would absolutely need to be rebuilt: price quote: $3500 including labor. I'm scratching my head at this point & reaching for the aspirin..as little as I know about cars I'm wondering how a transmission needs to be rebuilt at 104k?
Oh well..as much as I like this car, I don't want to put in $3500 and hope for the best. Mechanic #3 is a Hondo maven..and he says it's not the transmission...this is what he says: checked for codes; found none. Reset Transmission computer by removing power to it resulting in the car running better and D4 light if off. He advises that we Wait & See if problem happens again.. He suspects a possible electrical problem. Car does drive better and the D4 light remains off but when I get on the freeway the car seems stressed and noisy and when I decelerate, it's noisy. I am waiting for the other foot to drop.
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
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It only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
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