Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Wheel Bearing Gone Out - Making Noise?
Aug 5, 2013
Wheel bearing go out? My left front just starting making noise and when turned by hand you can hear the bearings are shot. Called around this morning and with my luck its on back order and the entire hub has to be replaced since the bearing is built into the hub.
Anyways, I was wondering replacing this unit themselves and how long it took to complete? I was going to let Ford do the work but I figured I have never done a job like this and wanted to give it a try and looking at some Youtube videos on older vehicles it did not look that difficult.
If I find that its not difficult I will tackle the other side as well since I figure it is probably not long before that side is gone also and I would not want that to fail while I am out towing somewhere.
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Have a rear wheel bearing making some noise. A friend told me that it is always the outer bearing that goes first . Can you replace the bearing without replacing the race?
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So my front right Wheel bearing is making noise and its a used Knuckle so its w/e. Guess ill use tonight to do all my bushings and fluids n stuff.
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The steering on my truck has become a little heavy after making a turn and bringing the steering wheel back to center. The steering feels heavy like I had a front tire half way down. There's a lot of drag then once on center it's gone. Could it be the beginning of the end for my ball joints?
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Immediately after I had four new tires installed on a 2000 Blazer 4wd, the front wheel bearings started making noise. At the time I thought the noise was from the new tires. A few thousand miles later my mechanic told me I needed two reman hub assemblies (sealed bearings) for ~$350 apiece plus labor.
Is there anything that the tire shop (independent not chain) could have done (accidentally or otherwise) to damage the bearings during the tire installation? I have to get 4 tires for my 93 Chevrolet Caprice and don't wish to repeat the experience.
Whoops, forgot to mention this happened at 56k miles when the truck was five years old. Is it possible that the bearings were borderline and the process of mounting the wheels put them over the edge? For instance, someone being a little over enthusiastic with an impact wrench.
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a few times when making a tight turn on hilly terrain or a hill on a road, I've noticed a grinding sound in the front of the truck and a vibration in the steering wheel. I've so far chalked this up to the hill assist feature, but today I was on relatively flat ground in a parking lot with a dip in it. While crossing the dip in a tight turn, I noticed the same thing again.
I've checked the tires/wheel wells and there is no rubbing, etc.
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I have a 2003 F250 6.0l 4x4 with 230k miles. All of a sudden it seems that the fan is very very loud and there may be a very little lost of power. Also i just replaced the fan clutch not sure if that may have anything to do with it. What could it be. I need to get this fixed this week...
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AC compressor makes a loud growling noise and lugs the engine briefly when engaged at idle and the truck has been sitting for weeks. After that initial grind, it works perfectly and makes no harsh noises. Can I replace the compressor bearing or should I swap out the entire compressor?
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Ok, so I leave the fire station this morning headed home and my steering felt weird. About 1/2 mile from home I hit a bump and my drivers side front wheel started making a screeching noise. I stopped and looked out the window and it appeared fine. I limped home and as I pull in the driveway, I lost all my steering. I look under the truck and this is what I found.
Not sure what to do. This is my daily driver and neither of my 2 mechanic friends will answer their phones.
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My buddy has a 2011 250 and is having some weird issues with a clicking noise. It started out when you put the truck in gear (D or R) and touch the gas it would click. Seems to be coming from the middle to rear part of the truck. Now it clicks when he's driving. This all started after he got 35's and a leveling kit. It's taller springs in the front and added a block in the rear. It has less than 15k on it.
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I posted a few threads about the P04DB code over the past several months. Last month while on vacation it came back and this time I was getting an engine light. So I finally got around to taking it in. The A/C blower was also making a clicking noise so I thought I would take care of both of those. At 41k and 42 months in service, the factory drive train warranty covered the CCV sensor replacement. The fan blower had to be replaced. So if getting that P04DB past 3/36, it is covered under the 5/60.
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I've got a noise that I just can't find. Have replaced a bunch of stuff trying to eliminate this sound.. steering pump, both front wheel bearings, new pads up front, both caliper brackets and pins. Did a new turbo, verified the new pump is not air bound, brakes work, no noise with wheels up, lock to lock, pumping brakes the whole time.
Sound is prominent at 1400 RPM, does go up with RPM, seems sometimes to follow a steer to the right. When I shut down, not at full temp a clunk happens, like a mechanical stop. That clunk is less noticed once up to temp and it really started after the steering pump. Sparky came over, listened with a probe, says it's not the pump, my BIL and a close friend say the same thing.
Today, when I nailed it, rpm came on hard, tires smoked and when I let off quick, truck died, like something held the belt. It just slowed and died, restarted immediately.
Shawn listened to the transmission, says he heard nothing there either but did hear something above that near the back of the motor.
IPR is spot on 21.8%, ICPV is .80-.82 and [email protected] However, it has been dropping to lower numbers recently, saw 15.4% and it often sits near 19.4%-20.4% for periods of time. Tap the throttle, right back to 21.8%.
I'm at a loss. I've tested everything I can think of. I can power brake the truck, no trans slippage, it spins the tires easily around 10lbs boost. The A/C seems low on the charge, it is freezing the dehydrator and I added some freon, 18oz can, the clutch is not frozen. Turn it off, compressor stops spinning like it's supposed to. The tensioners are not frozen or squealing, water pump is not making noise, temp is 200 on the dot. Trans is full, no burned smell. Motor oil is fresh, filters clean.
It sounds like a grinding noise and I'm about to tear the cover off the HPOP. I'm at 150k now and know it will need replaced soon, I've spent $2500 in the last 2 weeks, but before I tear it apart......
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One of the many things that impresses me about the 6.7 is how well it lugs...... it'll run right down to near 1,000 rpm in 6th gear and stay there till it absolutely has to shift. Like a diesel should. Well, recently, and now more frequently my truck is making some strange noises when it lugs down. It'll mainly do it if I'm towing light, like my flat trailer empty, or maybe if I have a decent load in the bed. But occasionally it'll do it empty. As soon as it lugs down low to 1,000-1,200 and pulls there for a few seconds you'll hear a couple squeaks, then a kinda chugchugchugchug noise. It immediately quits if you let off or make it shift down. It sounds like a turbo-related noise, but I don't really know. Truck only has 9k miles on it. I just know this is one of those things I'll take it back to the dealer and they'll give me the ol "we can't duplicate the problem here." What it could be?
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I have a 2003 6.0l... When I first bought truck, seemed to run fine. Since then truck has broke down on me once. I took it on a six hour drive, and couldn't turn vehicle off, because if so, truck wouldn't start back up until cool. After getting to my destination, fans seemed very loud every time I pressed pedal, and seemed very sluggish. Drove it a couple days and boost was low and fans continued to sound like they werre engaging even when I first started truck for the day. Had truck towed to shop, because it cut off on me when driving.
At shop : Truck had air filter, water in fuel sensor, o-ring for draining plug, new ICP sensor and harness, and HFCM cleaned up as it was filled with gunk.
After shop : Fans quit being so loud, but have not had near the boost I had before issues started. Truck struggles to go from stop, and around 15 psi boost gauge starts shaking erratically. Also, I have been losing coolant in a short period of time, and can't see any leak coming from anywhere, and also my radiator has been making a sloshing/gurgling noise and it will stop, then come back all within bout ten seconds. And I guess while I'm writing, I should mention the bucking after it downshifts in about third or fourth gear giving it gas makes the truck buck until the RPMs are above 2000 or it upshifts or downshifts, and at an idle seems to miss until warm.
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2005 ford f250 6.0 Started making this noise from front about a month ago, can't figure out what it is. Only happens when letting off accelerator or changing from P - D. The truck acts normal, seems to be louder when the truck is warm.
[URL] .....
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Was driving back home from shopping tonight and my truck was making a lot of noise when I tried to accelerate. I noticed the boost gauge on the dash was stuck at 35psi but the MiniMaxx showed 0psi.
No engine light so I babied it home which was about 30mins driving and managed to accelerate slowly to avoid the engine rattling. I didn't want to shut it down and restart in case it wouldn't start again for some reason.
When I got home I idled until EGT was <300F like I normally do (it never went over 700F when I was driving home) and then restarted it. The gauges worked fine, MiniMax showed boost and the engine revved freely with no rattling noise. I haven't taken it out for a road test, I'll do that when it's daylight.
Bad sensor somewhere? I would think if the turbo had failed it wouldn't have been fine after a restart.
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Well, I last summer my fuel filter/ pump started squealing, and making vibrating noise, replaced the fuel filter changed the noise slightly, some times it would go away, sometimes the line going to the filter under the hood would vibrate, couple weeks ago truck warning light came on- "low fuel pressure warning" came on, hum... went out, came on a couple days later, then finally put me into limp mode, luckly only 1/2 mile from home... checked filter on frame/ tightness, it was tight, the pump on the filter housing was very noisey still, well, I figured 200 dollars cheaper than taking to ford....
I waited and pump arrived 3 days later, replaced it and low pressure warning still on, but pump was very quiet, and when I restarted low pressure warning and reduced power came on in driveway, hum.... I thought code was still in computer, I disconnected battery and turned headlights on to try and kill the code, started it and now the engine light came on, nothing else, and truck ran fine....hum.... went to autozone, and they pulled the code, low fuel rail pressure, p0087, guy said to drive and code should go off, truck runs fine. Drove truck a couple days and engine light went off, Truck runs great.......All is good.
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Pulled into the yard today after about a 20 mile haul with my 2015 f450 6.7.
I shut it down after pulling in, from what i knew everything was fine. 20 minutes later i started it codes and lights went off like the four of july. A wrench light, oil light, temp light and maybe even an obama light. The gauges did not even move. I shut it down, let it cool then after starting it only the CEL came on. I bought two new trucks in 2015 and both had front end alignments off. The f450 doors fill up with water when it rains.
One day after a rain I put my seat belt on and the seat belt was soaking wet. The cab corner where the seat belt spools up was full of water. The tie rods and ball joints started making sounds after 20k miles so i checked them to find they didn't have ANY grease in them!!!! The def fill tube broke off driving through a small dip in the road (i heard it pop). My first new truck....glad l have my 96 7.3.
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I'm in the middle of replacing the hub and bearing assembly, once i got the hub assembly off, I noticed when I grab the axle there is a lot of play if I pull the axle up and down or left to right. Is this normal as the hub assembly holds it in position? I don't have any fluid leaking so the seal must be good, or am I missing something. I am trying to do this in 30 degree weather and it sucks.
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My passenger side wheel bearing is going out. I had a local company replace it under extended warranty 7 years and 90k miles back. I think I have gotten pretty good life out of it. I think it was from Napa but not positive. I try to grease then once a year but I'm not always successful.
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As soon as I stepped on the brake and started to move backwards out of the garage, pedal pulsed and ABS light came on. Now it comes on shortly after starting and stepping on the brakes. I just finished the drivers side wheel bearing, u-joint, brake pads, rotors, outer axle stub, and all "outer axles" seals replacement.
AllAboutMPG offered a suggestion about shims on the sensor and checking the ring (never done this, figure it out when I'm there later today?) I figured I'd put this here for some additional input and (hopefully!) later be a good search source and fix for fellow members
Here is the original thread. I installed a Timken complete wheel hub unit with new sensor already installed on the hub.
[URL] ....
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