Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Vibration From Rear Of Vehicle Happens Constantly Whether Loaded Or Not
Aug 30, 2012
I am experiencing a pretty noticeable vibration from the rear of the vehicle (steering wheel does not shake and I have no "death wobble") when hooked to my 14K trailer and also my stock trailer (to some degree). Happens constantly whether loaded or not, although it is a bit better when loaded. Happens much more on rougher country roads, but is still there on the interstates.
The trailer is new to me and I rebuilt the entire brake system, repacked bearings & tires have great tread, but have not had the tires spin balanced.
Can't tell whether a shock change (FX4 Rancho) will fix it or not.
I DO get a pretty severe roller coaster deal when hooked up and going over a dip. Truck just continues to bounce tail to nose, tail to nose, etc. That in itself is obviously shocks, but I am more concerned about the vibration.
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While I am loving the fuel millage and ride of my new truck, I have my first concern. In the last few weeks i have hauled a truck bed full of dirt, and 3300 lbs of sod. both times i would use tow haul mode, and while the truck had plenty of power, it would shutter when accelerating from a stop. Mostly first gear 0-15 mph.
This is my truck with a fancy electronic controlled transmission, so on the old pickups this would be a torque converter slipping, but all the ford dealer wants to tell me is "its electrical and they want to reflash my transmission". I am at 26k miles and have less than 10k left on my warranty...
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When I bought the truck it had some crap tires on it and the deal was that they had to put tires on it for me. I just picked it up and notice that I have a vibration at 40mph it then goes away by 45 then it comes back at 60 then gone by 65. The vibration feels like it is come from the rear.
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I ran about 500 miles today loaded up pretty good and noticed every bump I hit that was enough to rock the truck and trailer that there was a noise I've never heard before. It was like the difference between asphalt and concrete road surfaces, but was only present when the springs were sufficiently compressed. Temps were between -10 when I left to 10 or so above when I was destinated. Would that cause the noise?
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2005 f350 6.0 all stock except egr delete. My turbo is spooling up and down constantly. I can actually watch my VGT duty cycle fluctuate while sitting at an idle too. I've cleared the codes and p0299 always shows up first, but then I'll get p0069 BARO/MAP, and a p0470 exhaust pressure sensor eventually. Sometimes it takes an hour of driving before those show up. I can watch all these values on my torque pro, and nothing seems out of the ordinary other than the turbo opening and closing at will. What can cause this? I hate to just start throwing sensors at it.
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My 04 PS was blowin white smoke constantly while running. I just towed a uHaul from Connecticut to Virginia Beach and had some coolant issues on the drive down (I was out of coolant on 95 in PA, added coolant and it made the rest of the drive no problem). I got here to Virginia and it was low on coolant again. I added coolant to it, and now I have some other issues. I had what looked like oil comin out the stacks onto the bed, so I pulled the turbo thinking it was seals. But the turbo was just rebuilt prior to me buying it with a wicked wheel in it. It still had stock EGR and it has 202K on it.
Checked and found EGR valve was wet. Ordered an EGR delete kit, and just finished installing it. Now with everything put back together, the truck doesn't want to start. It cranks but doesn't fire. I pulled the codes from my tuner and I got: P0403, P0405, P0683, and P2623. I know P0403 and P0405 are related to EGR but the others I'm at a loss on. The EGR delete kit I bought included the blank to remove the valve but what do I do with the plug that used to plug into it? Any way forward to get the truck back up and runnin again? This is my daily driver and not lookin to break the bank to get it goin again but I really need her to be reliable.
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if 08 factory running boards will fit on my 15? After ten weeks of waiting she finally in town but the dealer told me I never mentioned running boards so it's either swap my old ones or pay 600 for some after markets similar to the factory running boards.
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I was driving my vehicle and turned a corner and the vehicle completely died. No illuminated instrument panel, power windows, radio, turn indicators, HVAC not working. Turned ignition key off and back on and blank instrument panel no information. The vehicle does not crank.
All components which do not require the ignition key turned on work fine; IE headlights (low and high beams; they are bright), emergency flashers, power mirror, power seats, brake pedal adjust, door locks (remote and from the door panel), horn, and interior lights to name a few.
Is there a relay which the ignition switch activates to provide power for all components tied to the ignition switch? If so where is it located.
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I'll try to keep it simple. MkV r32. 79k
When sitting in a parked position, engine running, and I jog the wheel back and fourth I'm hearing an awful clunking noise from what sounds to me to be the steering rack.
-The noise can not be replicated unless the vehicle is stopped with the front suspension loaded.
-While moving, be it 5 mph or 55 mph the noise can not be replicated.
-Tyrolsport deadest kit installed upfront, no apparent play in the u joint that connects the steering shaft to the rack.
There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of information about issues with mkv steering racks making noise like I'm describing. Most information pertains to subframe shifting which can't be the case.
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I just had the Local Ford dealer perform an oil change. I noticed the motor running a tad different almost right away but put it off thinking it was something else going on. well i get several miles down the road and anytime i accelerate there is a noticeable vibration and little power. I also noticed that both my water temp and EOT were above 200*. I called the dealer and of course the service department had gone home for the day. I will be calling first thing tomorrow morning.
My drive from work to the dealer is well over 20 miles and at 60-65 my water never got above 189 and the EOT never got above 195. so after oil change water temp got to 205 and EOT was at 215 at the max. This is with no load going 55 mph on the hwy. I have a Ford Premium warranty on the truck as well and this is why I decided to have them do the oil change. they have done the previous oil change as well with no issues.
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I have been chasing this vibration that seems to happen around 50 to 60 mph. It seems to be the last 2 gears in the transmission. It's not really a chatter, but more like a drive line vibration. At 70mph it goes away completely and is smooth as glass.
I have had the driveshaft rebuilt once, and just recently balanced. I am convinced it is not in the driveshaft. While it was being balanced the tech removed the harmonic balance r weight that was on the rear part of the shaft. Now the vibration seems magnified.
I was thinking it may be the clutch that is incorporated in the torque converter. Is there any way to disable the clutch just to see if it is the cause of the vibration? The truck had a lift and big tires on before I got it. It is now back to stock. It's a 2005 F250 crew cab short bed 170k miles.
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172k on the girl now. Getting a little vibration while driving yesterday. Looks like it's time for new U-joints, carrier bearing pinion seal. Thinking of going grease less again since these lasted 172k. What brand should I go with? Or should I install ones that are grease able?
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Sitting at a light. I noticed a slight vibration while in gear. Get home. Put her in park and noticed it again. Took her for a spin again. It seems to do it at low speeds, cruising and goes away once I'm on it? What would be a good starting point to track this down?
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I don't think I've really noticed this before, but I filled up my 50 gallon Titan tank and added a full 32-ounce bottle of Power Service Diesel Kleen (treats "up to" 100 gallons) before hauling some stuff and running through that tank in a weekend. I didn't really intend to but wasn't paying enough attention and put at least 3/4 of the bottle in and said screw it and let it have the rest.
I don't know whether that has anything to do with it, but since then I've noticed at idle it seems to have kind of vibration at idle, like a low frequency buzz. At speed it appears to go away. It's not horrible or anything, just noticeable, made more so by a flashlight I had in the hard side pocket of the 4-cup center console buzzing against the plastic.
What could be causing it and how to treat it? Doesn't seem like something worth taking to the dealer even though I'm still a little under the 36k mile original warranty.
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I replaced the all 6 tires and all 3 rear u joints on my 03 dually and steering all feels tight but I still get a vibration above 60.
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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I have a 2007 Ford F-250 6.0L that's making a vibration noise when I come to a stoplight with my foot on the brake, just idling. I just recently replaced the front brake pads this past weekend. I looked under the hood and visually checked for any obvious things that could be making the noise and did not find any, I did notice my power steering pump is damp with fluid. Now this noise only occurs when my foot is on the brake, anytime my foot is off the brake, it goes away.
I checked brake fluid level and power steering pump fluid level, both are fine except power steering fluid looks like chocolate milk. I don't know if the power steering pump would be the cause of this, but I'm going to replace it because it's leaking and I'm guessing the fluid for the power steering is way overdue. I've only owned this truck since March of this year and it has 128,000 miles on it. Hopefully this video link to youtube works, the sound in the video is the same noise that I'm hearing from the truck. Where this noise is coming from.
Vibration noise powerstroke - YouTube....
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I've mentioned in the recent passed a vibration I have and thinking it may be one of my hub bearings. Now I really can't tell if it's that or something else as it feels like powertrain when accelerating but at speed feels like I'm driving on gravel?? The vibration is a tight one if that makes sense..it's bugging me to death.
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Truck has just over 5000 miles on it. Had the tires road forced, no luck! Took it to the dealer ford said replace the tires 2 at a time (r then f), picked it up yesterday no better and said that ford wants to put a new driveshaft in it!
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Truck is an '07 F350 Supercrew, 8ft bed, SRW, 2wd. I bought the truck last month and noticed a low frequency driveline vibration starting at about 45 mph and is noticeable to about 65 mph. Feels like a bad u-joint. So I pulled the drive shaft (two piece) and checked the joints. They seemed find so I sent it to a commercial truck shop that does driveshaft work. Had the joints replaced and the shaft rebalanced.
Re-installed drive shaft and went for a test drive. No real change in the vibration. The hangar bearing seemed fine so it wasn't changed. Doesn't feel like a wheel out of balance. My experience tells me its a drive shaft.
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2004 Excursion... 1st time into a 6.0 for me so I took my time. Truck has 192000miles.
PHP Ficm atlas 40, 58V Swamps
SCT Tuned via X4 (recently)(Extreme street at the time)
Synthetic 0w30 summer and 0w40 winter.
FORD filters ALWAYS, 5000mile intervals no pushing it
FORD fuel filters, BOTH regularly.
Studded, AFE Stage 2, Liberty EGR Delete.
42's, 4:88's with Detroit in rear
Highway driving and feel a stumble. Weird, then another, ok that wasn't a bump. Then steady rough idle and a heavy vibration when I lightly got back up to speed to get myself home.
Had new filters so started there. Just changed in the spring here and they were in pretty new condition but swapped them out anyway. Stripping the cap, 120 bucks and had to put a new one on.
Start truck and still rough idle, test drive and still a bad vibration.
SO, I read and search. Scanning with Ford or AE are my number one priorities and they were done along with Fuel pressure check.
Scan revieled Inj 6 out, fuel pressure at 60 PSI. We pulled plugs off injectors with results except 6, confirming it's not working.
Ordered an injector and the Aliant Power rebuild kits to freshen up the other 7.
Disassembled all 7, NO stiction problems at all and all 7 spool valves were clean as a whistle. Bodies of injectors were good on 6 of them and had a screen in cyl 3 what was completely gone (the 3 screens around the body of the injector). Tip was also plugged but one hole. (used brake cleaner in tip and air to confirm 6 holes were clear) Used the body of the core on that injector but not the spool part. Replaced all O-Rings incl the seal inside the top where rail snaps into. Sanded spools (800grit 2-3 turns) and installed same way they came out. Stem pipes and dummies new as well.
Reassemble, carefully and fire truck. WOW....running abit rough but smoother. Ive read it takes abit to get air out of system and to expect longer cranks ect. Shut it down. INspect for leaks. Button up the ficm, and few other things. Re-fire truck with abit longer of a crank. Fires and running smooth. HERE's where it starts acting up again. I can feel a small stumble....then another....then full time again. Exact same as before. Pull 6 off and it's that injector again.
Here's the big mistake I made. Reinstalling injectors, I put the new one in #4 spot and number 4 in 6's spot. Not smart, I know.
Pulling inj plugs off around entire motor while running and def No 6.
Put things away, call buddy and he says possible FICM. or harness.
So i pull inj harness and OHM every single pin and map it. 100%, I go grab his "good" ficm and test with that. HOLY COW, FOUND IT. Started great... Then as she warmed up ICP at650ish, EOT ECT getting to 100-110F (only a 4-5* delta always monitor) is starts to vibrate and run rough again.
Read some more....OHM testing is one thing, actually load testing harness confirms if it's actually no good. Harness is 450 bucks plus our lovely 13% tax so I want to diligently cross this bridge. Grab a harness off a running 6.0 and test next day.
Fires up and runs smooth. Then, as temps come up it starts again. Walked away last night and when I fired up this morning. Started great and as she warmed up vibration was back. Along with a intermittent squeak from the turbo housing area.
Codes.... SCT X4 tuner is reading nothing DTC's and hasn't since day one so I "assumed" no codes until buddy scanned with AE and since it's last WiFi update wouldn't connect to computer and gives me error code 10007 when I try to tune. **Ended up fixing last night, went into another "Tune revision update" and now connects to my computer AND returned my truck to STOCK and resested truck. Still running rough.
So I plug my PHP FICM tuner and get codes:
P1102 "Unkknown" (reading here I had my AFE off and not plugged in)
P0113 Intake air HI input
P0284 Cyl 8 cont/bal Fault
P0603 Internal control Module KAM error
P0611 FICM Perf (58v swamps, I've read always throws this code and I've had that code since day 1)
P0676 Glow #6 fail
Lastly I'll add, no smoke out tail pipe at all during all testing minus the black puff when tune loaded.
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