Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Under Rear Seat Storage Area Access?
Feb 2, 2015
Crew cab, have easy access to the under rear seat storage area to grab a few quick measurement? I need to know the entire length (side to side) and width at the widest points as well as depth.
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We have a 2013 F150 Lariat. When you raise the rear seat bottoms the entire floor board opens into a really large nice flat space. By removing the storage tub from my 2015 SD Lariat will that provide the same results as the F150 ?
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How do you access the tire air valves on the DRW, the inside tire valve? I can't get my air guage or my compressor air filling connection on the inside tire.
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I've had the Ford Remote Access installed on my pickup for over a year now and it's worked great up until about a week ago when I changed cell phone providers from AT&T to Verizon. Now when trying to use the app I get the error code 00011000. I up-dated the app to reflect the new carrier but it still doesn't work. And yes, my subscription to the service is current. What I need to do to get this working again, with winter just around the corner I'd sure like to have this functional again. I figured I'd give the forum a shot before I resort going to the dealer.
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getting weak spray/dribble (yea, it could be a "personal problem " on the drivers side squirter. Left side great. I have replaced both squirters and blew out the line where it T's over to the drivers side.
Still weak.. I'm thinking its most likely low pressure coming off the pump and maybe it's time to replace I haven't crawled under there to inspect placement of pump. Thought while there I would also replace the reservoir.
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One thing I noticed when I was checking out the R is the lever came off rather easy.
I put it back on. This happened on both sides.
Is this normal? Would I want to Super Glue it?
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I folded down my rear seat the other day and it wouldn't unfold. I took it to Lexus and they wanted to replace a broken cable in the seat. I decided to do it myself. I found the parts I need on Sewell. The problem is that I am having a hard time getting access to the cables in the seat. How to get access to the cables in the seat or how to remove it so I can figure it out from there?
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It's my turn, while out site seeing my back seat power window don't work , the control from drivers seat or from the back seat door control, I popped both covers on the control switch and both are firmly plugged in, I don't have my meter with me to see if power is running back to the switch , this morning I'll try to switch out the two back seat controls to see if I can get at least that window to go down , 04 350 , would there be a fuse for each or is it in the switch in the door that the harness plugs into , that's the only window that won't go down...
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After towing my jeep 4 hours round trip for an offroading day, I noticed a jingling/rattling noise from my grille area. It is less audible from above (hood open), to my surprise. Everything works fine still, including the fan kicking on while pulling a hill as expected.
The only related thing I can think of is that I changed my belt before this trip because the old one squealed when it accelerated the fan and when it held full speed (2000+rpm fan speed). The new gatorback belt did not squeal at all. Could I have hurt the tensioner by pulling the belt too hard to remove it? I used the method of pulling the belt up on the passenger side of the alternator to get it off, and to put the new one on.
I notice the belt tensioner moves a bit at probably 20-30 hz, kinda dancing around. I don't know if it did that before.
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I have just acquired a 2011 F350, 6.7, SRW, 4X4, Long Bed, Super Cab with 125K on the clock.
It has an oil leak, not real serious but messy, that seems to be coming from an area above the starter. What is up there that could leak besides the valve cover?
I know that the later super duties have required the removal of the cab for any work much beyond an oil change. I certainly hope that this not the case here.
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Didn't think anything of it but i have noticed a few times this week when i start the truck after it's to temp, shut down for an hour, the restart I hear coolant gurgling in the dash area? Was very noticeable this evening. Still no overheating and heat blows nice and hot. Still getting the blows warm to a certain temp, then cold to a certain temp, then hot once to temp then will stay hot until fully cold soaked. Think my tstat is not acting right?
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I've just finished a marathon replacing the y-pipe, and doing the IPR screen. I had many seized/stripped bolts to contend with. 2 I had to cut off in the most awkward places.. Anyways, it all came together and completed the project late tonight...
Befoer even starting the truck I noticed coolant dripping from passenger side manifold/block heater area.. I obviously must have damaged something in my reefing on turbo to get it lined up with exhaust pipes, etc...
I cannot see the source of the leak, but it seems wet above the block heater, but pools there then drips.. I'm curious where to look. Could I have damaged the EGR cooler and its coming from there? At the manifold joint closest to the back, is there coolant flowing there? I am pretty frustrated, because after going through a day like to day, ripping my arms to shreds, straining for 12 hours straight, then having yet another issue to figure out...
Also this is as best as I could get the y-pipe to meet the turbo... slight gap at bottom.
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Dad's truck 2012 regular cab. Seat belt doesn't like to retract on it's own. The retracter(next to your left butt cheek) works fine, or so it seems. The belt seems to get caught in the swivel mount above your shoulder. I've tried a piece of sand paper in between the belt and the plastic but it doesn't work any better. Is there a way to adjust the retracter? Looking for a solution before we close the buckle in the door frame and have bigger issues...
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I have a 2004 Ex, 6.0 PSD, 4x4. I am experiencing a fuel leak after first startup. Fuel drips off both side of engine area but not coming from the top of the engine, valley is dry. Truck runs great, no hesitation or buffeting as if it was leaking from the intake area. After about 10 min of running leak stops but there is some occasional drips from residue.
This all started after I installed the IPR remote coil cooler and Gen 3 EGR delete. I thought I was smelling an exhaust leak but didn't realize it was actually fuel until just a few days ago when the leak became really bad for about 10 min, leaks about a cup of fuel. I have added a UV due to the tank to see if that will show the leak.
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Started about a month ago with a very infrequent squeaking coming from area of front left wheel. Has started getting more and more frequent to the point of being constant for about 10 minutes today, then just went away for the remaining 15 miles home. Front left hub was definitely warmer than the other one but not too hot to touch or anything. Start of a bearing issue or something to do with the auto locking hubs for the 4wd???
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I have a 2011 F-350 CCSB 4x4 w/ 20" Wheels and the electronic locker. I have had for some time a noise when I go over small bumps (pulling into garage up a 1" lip) at slow speeds. It sounds/feels like side to side movement. I have traced this down to what sounds like looseness inside the rear differential. To recreate, I lay down and shove hard on the spare tire. This pushes the truck side to side. I can hear a clank/clunk at both wheels around the brake area.
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I blocked off the hpop discharge tube to test for leaks, shop air. I am plugged into the oil rail drivers side, and keep getting a slight popping sound. The first time I did this it took ten minutes to start, so I replaced the top injector seals. The second time it did this after about four minutes, so I took the oil rail to the local shop and they did the ball tube orings in the rail, now I went to put it back on and it does it almost right away.
Am I just pushing the oil out of the injectors? is this normal or should I have NO air noise period? I guess I am not sure how these injectors work, where does the oil go after it enters the top of the injector? It seems like it's coming more from the top coil area, more so perhaps than under the oil rail.
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For a while now, I have been hearing a very high pitch whistle noise from the turbo/exhaust area. Everybody told me it was an exhaust leak, but I never could pin point the leak. While I was under the truck last weekend I found the flex joint on the passenger side up pipe was broken a leaking.
I ordered a Dorman replacement pipe that comes with a new gasket and hardware.
I will be the first to admit, I am not a fan of Dorman parts... BUT, this pipe is really nice. It looks identical to the pipe being sold on Dieselsite.com, it doesn't have the scoop inside to direct exhaust gas to the EGR cooler and it comes with all the mounting hardware.
[URL] ....
Once I got the turbo down pipe out of the way and soaked the bolts with penetrating oil, I had the broken up pipe off in 30 minutes.
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I have a f350 6.7l powerstroke diesel. It has been shaking real bad sometimes to the point of going only 15-20mph. And sometimes while it shakes it makes a rattling noise in engine area. The weird thing is that it doesn't do it all the time. We have noticed it mostly when gas gets low.
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So i did this with mine but friend just bought 06 6.0. How do u shut the chime off for the seatbelt again. I know parking brake on key to on position not run. How many time do u buckle and unbuckle again?
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Drove my truck for the first time in a few months and there was a noticeable ticking coming from the passenger side glovebox area when the HVAC is running. I cycled between AC and fresh air and the sound persisted. What it could be?
Took a quick video on my phone, you'll have to turn up the audio to hear the ticking : 2011 F350 HVAC ticking - YouTube ....
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