The other day i noticed my turn signal was blinking rapidly. I found that my drivers side bulb was burned out. I am trying to convert most of my lights to LEDs on my truck and figured that I'd replaced the tail lights with LEDs. After replacing both rear taillights with LEDS I still have the rapid blinking turn signal. Whats the deal? is it just the LEDS or what?
View 13 RepliesMy 2002 Elantra (about 276,000km) had some kind of leak in a power steering return line. A mechanic looked at it, said I needed to order the replacement part from Hyundai. Got the part, the mechanic (not Hyundai) took 2 hours and fixed the line.
Driving away from the mechanic, I noticed the front right turn signal was blinking abnormally rapidly. Left turn signal is fine. I call the mechanic, tell him what's happening, and ask if it might be related to the power steering line fix (after all, they're both in the right front side of the vehicle). He swears up and down he touched nothing having to do with the turn signal.
Okay, maybe it's just a coincidence. I buy a new signal light and put it in. Same thing with the front right turn signal blinking too rapidly. While driving back from replacing the bulb, a car cut in front of me and I went to lay on the horn....nothing happened!! No sound. To top it off, for a while now, the dashboard lighting has been dimming slightly at certain times.
What could be causing all this? The alternator is fine, someone tested it.
I've been having an electrical issue for the past few months that I've decided to address now that the weather is getting a little warmer.
What happened is the left turn signal was blinking fast, so I assumed bad bulb, and later that day it stopped blinking fast and now I press the lever down to indicate a left turn and there is a quite loud buzzing sound. Sounds like it's coming from where the relays are, but I've replaced them and the bulbs and still nothing has changed.
I've also replaced the multifunction switch to see if that was an issue, but a new one did the same thing so I returned it.
Running lights work all around, but now there are no left blinkers, and also my left brake light doesn't come on. Pulling a trailer I have the same problem, I had the plug tested and only 3 of the pins have anything to them.
I know nothing about auto electrical systems.
Started truck, used windshield washer and noticed High Beam Indicator was lit on dash. Headlight switch not on. Drove to Ford dealer, turned off truck, high beams would not shut off. Dealer replaced the Turn Signal/wiper/High beam switch assembly. Dealer had one in stock. Service manager said they have replaced a few of these Switches. So if your High Beams come on without the headlight switch on you cannot turn them off even if you shut off and exit truck. Also the "You left your lights on warning chime" does not sound when you exit truck.
View 14 RepliesLast night I was heading home from a two day race and found that my turn signals wasn't working. the running lights are working and obviously i could feel the brakes working.
well i hooked up some jumpers to a 12v battery and the 7 pin and the lights work. to make 100% sure it works i hooked it up to my neighbors Tacoma. it all worked. well..........
On my last f150 when it was new this happened to me too. it ended up being the turn signal fuse on my truck.
I hooked right back to my truck again and just made sure my plug was all the way in and still nothing so i know its my truck side.
Now my last f150 owners manual had a section to where it told you what fuse is what and where. well i don't even see the f250 fuse box is and don't know which one it is to see if its blown.
All of a sudden, my turn signal won't stop automatically after making a turn. I read that the multi function lever needed to be replaced. I did, and nothing changed... what is wrong since its not the lever assembly itself?
View 6 RepliesHearing a whistle noise after installing the Recon smoked turn signal lense? The whistle starts between 40 and 50 mph and is the driver side only. I have triple checked the installation and it has the same clearance all the way around as the left side. I sent Recon an email on Jan 5th about this issue and still haven't heard back from them.
View 14 RepliesI'm looking for a 3156 LED Amber turn signal bulb for the front turn signal, I've looked around haven't found anything! Any success story with this particular bulb, and does it require a load manager when installing?
View 14 Replies2004 F250 6.0L!!
An issue I noticed right off the bat was that whenever I had the driver side turn signal on, and the brake was applied, the turn signal freezes.
I took apart the tail light and found a concoction of wires...I posted a diagram illustrating what it looks like.
There is this pesky Red wire that is spliced into the tail light bulb socket wire (specifically the green wire).
There is a trailer brake installed...if this means anything. I've tried disconnecting that with no luck on fixing the issue.
How to further troubleshoot would be great...electrical work is not my forte!
I have a 72 F250. When I put the left turn signal on and apply the brakes, the signal stops blinking. I checked the bulb and it was fine. What is the likely cause?
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe right hand turn signal light bulbs flash rapidly both in the front and rear, the left hand side is normal. I am trying to locate the turn signal flasher module but without any luck, looked under the dash in the fuse box and under the hood in the relay box. Is it in the relay box...
View 7 RepliesIt all began on my 1997 Camry when the driver's front turn signal began the rapid flashing thing, indicating to me that the bulb in the front was out. I replaced the bulb. The running light part works, but the flasher still does not. On the front passenger side of the car, the turn signal works, but the running light does not. I replaced the passenger side bulb at the same time I replaced the driver's side bulb. The flashing turn signal works as it did before, but the running light still does not go on.
The problem shouldn't be the bulbs - they are new. The flasher unit behind the fuse box should affect both lights flashing, so it probably is not that.
What thing or things can cause one light to flash for the turn signal but not be on constantly for the running light (passenger front side) and to work as a running light being constantly on, but not flashing as a turn signal (driver's front side)?
OK...I ask that you bear with me while I explain my question/issue.
I bought a used 2006 F350 Super Duty diesel last October (Oct 2015) and it has about 124,500 miles on it now. Last week, the power cut out as I was driving home from running an errand. Jumped it and got it back to the house. Suspected the alternator as both batteries tested low (according to AutoZone). Purchased the 110amp alternator and after a few days...I was able to get the alternator installed. AutoZone charged the batteries back up.
Today, I was able to start the truck and drive it around the block in order to make sure everyone was okay - before I took it out on the streets. Got back to the driveway....ABS light comes on, radio shuts off, odometer light goes off, etc. I shut the engine off and let it sit for a minute. Try to start it back up...and nothing happens. Ended up disconnecting both batteries while I ponder the root cause of the issue.
Is it possible the 110amp alternator is not strong enough to handle the power requirements (and that's why the dashboard lights went out)? To the best of my knowledge, there's only 1 alternator. The only "extra" that's installed is the tow/haul package (which I haven't used yet). According to the Ford Parts web site - after I enter the VIN for my truck - the results show a 110amp alternator (heavy duty alternator).
Would exchanging the 110amp for the 140amp be the most logical place to start? Or is there something I missed as a replaced the alternator?
I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
View 14 RepliesWhile I know this has been covered before, I could not find anything pertinent to 2011-2015 model years.
So, I changed my turn signals to LEDs, and now I have the fast-blink behavior. I realize this is because of the significantly decreased amperage and resistance of the LED modules. I did a similar mod on my 2007, and simply found a replacement low-current blinker relay (on eBay, I think), and replaced it (it was physically located behind the extra small glove box near the middle of the dash.
My questions are, 1) for a 2015, should I use the same method of replacing the blinker relay? 2) Any brand and model that will work for this application and/or where one can be purchased and 3) Where is that relay located on the 2015 model? If not, should resistors be used?
99 Ranger XLT 4.0 4WD Automatic. With the turn signal blinking and I depress the brake the turn signal stops blinking until I release the brake. Where to start.
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My truck has never felt like it has run right since I replaced the leaky ICP. The replacement was not a Ford or International product so I am afraid that it was a mistake. I replaced the plug also. I'm sure I got the wiring correct. I've been several hundred miles since.
I got on it today to get on the interstate and threw a code 2286. I cleared it and drove for a while to see if it would come back. It does fine unless I get on it, then it will throw the code again. I did it twice in a row so I figure I have bought a cheap ICP? My scan gauge is not good enough to get all the on the on the fly info you need.
My turn signal blinking noise just stopped but turn signal lights still work and no error codes or messages. I know some folks don't like the noise but I do since the noise lets me know that I've left the signal on.
I do not remember seeing it in either fuse box.
03 f350 srw. Today and a few times in the last couple weeks when sitting at a light with truck in gear it has surged a little bit. Not hard enough to make me push the brake pedal harder but noticeable climb and then fall of a couple hundred rpms. I remember hearing or reading of somebody else with the same issue and it ended up being a bad ICP. Checked it koeo when I got home and it was at .35 volts(scan gauge II). I don't recall the right number but that seems higher then what I remember it should be. What else other then pulling the plug and checking for oil should I be looking at? I replaced #5 and #6 injectors about a month ago, and everything seems to be good with that. I don't think the two are related but I'm no expert.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 f350 6.0, just replaced the oil pressure sensor in January, now, my truck is surging like crazy! I heard it could be the ICP sensor, how easy is this to change? And where do I find it if this is the problem!
View 1 RepliesHad a bad turbo on my 07 F550 with a 6.0. Replaced it today and took her for a ride. Started smoking and oil was spitting out of the weep hole in the muffler. A lot of smoke. The truck was smoking before I replaced the turbo too but I didn't have any oil coming out of the weep hole. I'm hoping it is just oil that had been passed into the exhaust by the bad turbo that is now being burnt off and pushed out by the new turbo. Does this sound plausible?
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