Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Truck Would Not Open Door Locks For Like Ten Minutes
Oct 29, 2012
My truck would not open door locks for like ten minutes or do anything. then all off sudden it worked again its this twice...
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Oct 29, 2012
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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Truck Locks Up At 45 - 50 Mph
I have a 2003 6.0l f250 disel and when I am driving and get up to around 45 mph it will shift and start to shake the whole truck and even if you mash the throttle RPMs won't move and will not gain speed until you let off the throttle and then re engage but it will continue to do this and I cannot seem to figure out what is wrong.
View 13 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 - Power Steps Extend When Open Driver Door - Location Of Door Switch?
So I have an issue over the last couple weeks, when I open the driver's door the power steps extend, and anywhere from 10 seconds to a minute later the step will retract like I closed the door. I didn't notice this the first time so the first step out of the truck caught me off guard. Now I pay attention to see it is extended before I get out.
So at first I thought it was a step issue, like it wasn't getting a consistent signal that the door was open, but I noticed yesterday when I had the door open, truck running, and radio on it all of a sudden retracted. I shut the truck off and got out but the radio kept playing because the truck thought the door was closed even though it was wide open. I closed the door and opened it and the radio shut off and the step extended and retracted like it should.
So last night I left the door open, truck off, no key in it. Over a period of 5 minutes, the step extended and retracted 8 times. My issue is only with the drivers door, the back doors and passenger doors don't appear to have an issue.
Where is the switch for the door? I think that would be the best place to start in replacing that.
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: With Door Open Door Ajar Message Goes Away?
Having issues with the door switches. My driver door, when opened, will cause a quick "door ajar" message then go back to as if I closed the door. Only once have I closed the door to have the dome light stay on. Doesn't do it all the time but is more frequent with the cold weather setting in. I got the service truck next week so its a good time to bring it in for warranty work.....
View 6 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Clicking From Door Locks / CD Player Says Initializing / No Heat From Vents
This is the it's always something post. Alternator rebuilt to 185. Batteries tested by AAA. When I went into the truck tonight the door locks made a clicking sound like the battery was going dead. Truck fired right up at 0 degrees.
I just installed WARN locking hubs and now I only have a defroster blower that works. Is there anything else besides a vacuum leak that might cause that?
6 CD Player has had problems loading and unloading for a few years but now it just says initializing and goes right back to radio.
I am really regretting doing the right thing two weeks ago and not letting this truck burn when it caught on fire on the Turnpike.
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Electric Door Locks No Longer Function - Hot Smell / Burned Out
Driving today I noticed a hot smell, it went away shortly after. When I got home I noticed the electric door locks no longer function. I guess this will be a test of my 3rd party warranty!
View 10 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 F250 - Truck Will Run For A Few Minutes Loose Fuel And Stopped
I have a 2005 f250 6.0 diesel. I have changed the 2 fuel filters, fuel pump, sending unit (was broke off in tank )and installed the blue spring fuel pressure regulator kit. My truck will run for a few minutes loose fuel and kill. Could this be a sensor or computer problem
View 12 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Annoying Chime Sound Whenever Open Door
Annoying key chime whenever I open my door the truck starts making a annoying chiming sound. Where the chime box is??
View 5 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: AC Will Blow Cold For About 3 Minutes And Then Stop For 10 Minutes
My A/C will blow cold for about 3 min. and then stop for 10 min......then cold again for 3 min.....then warm for 10 min.......what is going on ? It does this when on climate control and on A/C . I had a compressor go out about 1 1/2 yrs. ago due to a fan failing...the compressor tore apart... This is not acting like that though .
View 9 RepliesFord F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rear Door Locks Hesitate To Open With Key Fob Or Door Switch
My 04' FX4 rear door locks hesitate to open with the key fob or the door switch. I can get them to open sometimes but not every time. Why this is happening?
View 6 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Door Locks Actuate But Fob Won't Program
on my 2002 lariat.. Crew Cab dually. 7.3.. it will go into programming mode after 8 cycles.. Door locks actuate, but fob wont program. I checked the fobs and they are sending signals. What could be problem?
View 8 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2015 F250 - How To Disable Auto Locks
I tried the methods that I could find on youtube but with no luck.... I do not have the option to change the settings in the message center either...
View 14 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Dash / Windows / Locks / Radio All Quit Working
We just replaced an injector in my truck. Everything was fine, ran great, etc.
On the freeway home, the dash, windows, locks, radio all quit working. at first they'd stop and come back, stop and come back, etc. then finally they stopped. As I was getting off the nearest exit, the truck started dying on me. Once I got pulled over out of the way, it acted like the battery was completely dead.
After a few minutes of scratching my head and staring under the hood, I happened to look at the passenger side batter, and the crossover cable from the drivers side was broken off right at the terminal!! We must have broke it off while doing the injector. as I look closer at it, it had been broken before. Some idiot before me had actually taken a broken crimp style terminal, shoved it and crimped it into a new one and called it good.
I was able to redneck it back together so i could finish the last couple miles home. I fixed it properly with a new crimp terminal, heat shrink, etc. Why did the engine die with the crossover connection broken? was it because the series was not complete, and all the electronics were running off the battery(s) and not the alternator? I'm really confused. I've heard of people only running one battery before.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Cough / Sputter For A Few Minutes With No Power After Long Crank
So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Rough Idle And Jerking / Bucking When Torque Converter Locks Up
So, I was on my way back home driving through the middle of nowhere Utah late at night, when I had an injector tip crack. I was able to identify which one and unplug it so I could get to Grand Junction, CO (about 350 miles away) where I have family. After a power nap I started calling parts stores and found an injector from Advanced Auto Parts (I couldn't find a motorcraft reman, but I was restricted for time). Installed it and all seemed good so I hit the road again. However, nothing changed. It still had the bad miss (rough idle, jerking/bucking when the torque converter locks up) just like when I had the injector unplugged.
The truck is an early 2004 6.0. It's the number 4 injector. I finally got home and hooked up my AE scanner to discover a #4 injector circuit low P0270 code and circuit contribution/balance fault P0272. It's definitely missing because disabling it has no effect. This could be a loose connector at the injector or FICM, because I can't afford another injector right now.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: No Start If Sitting For Between 10 To 90 Minutes
I have an 06 f250 w/ 6.0. Having a no start problem. If my truck is warmed up and sits for 5 min or so and try to start it, it starts fine. If it sits longer than that , no start. But if I wait about an hour and a half, it starts right up. Why would it not start if sitting for between 10- 90 min. Starts fine cold.
View 14 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Pm-22 Go Bad With Open Can?
Will a gallon of fords pm-22 will go bad if the can has been open?
I was thinking of getting a gal can of the stuff but I'm worried it might go bad before I finish it off.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Filled Up With Diesel And About A Hour Later The Truck Is Knocking And Idling Rough
Wtf is going on, Temps are all good, no check engine codes...bad diesel fuel? I had 1/4 tank of diesel fuel when I filled it up...
View 14 RepliesFord 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Bluetooth Cuts Out Then Came Back About 5 Minutes Later
Where the factory BT module is located? The other day while listening to music, I hit a bump and my bluetooth cut out, then came back about 5 minutes later. Almost as if it lost connection to the stereo then reconnected....wondering if something isn't connected securely...
View 3 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Smokes White After 10 Minutes Warm Up - EGR?
My truck is puffing smoke after about 10 minutes and warmed up (looks white). It happens only one time for about 30 seconds and looks light grey or whitish in color, definitely not black smoke. The truck runs just fine, starts great, doesn't hesitate or studder, doesn't loose any coolant, no signs of pukage. In other words, it Runs perfect.
By the time the smoke happens I am usually at an intersection and see this white smoke billow past me or see it in the pass. side mirror. it's too hard at the time to get out of the truck at that exact 10-15 seconds it smokes to smell it or see it's true color without my sunglasses on but it looks white or greyish. not convinced it's a blueish color.
The truck doesn't smoke at start up or run rough so I'm ruling out injectors. I think it might be the egr cooler that is still connected eventhough there is no hot gasses going through it. (Did the up pipe mod). I might have an egr valve that has a bad seal on it. I'll have to remove the egr valve and see if it looks gummy in there since the egr cooler still routes coolant.
The other thing it might be is a bad oil seal on the turbo which is burning off leaked oil after it's warmed up, again I don't see it smoke for the rest of the day.
The very first time I saw it smoke was the day after I did the up pipe mod and capped off the egr cooler. I may have had a small cooler leak before I did the up pipe mod and now the coolant (if it's coolant) can't run in the exhaust or burn off there directly. My SCT turns off the egr valve but the valve may have a bad seal in it along with a defective egr cooler. will remove the valve to inspect tomorrow if possible.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Dies Hot - No Start For 10 Minutes
Early 2004 (IPC under turbo) 163000 miles. Injectors done last summer. Stock. Got a call that this guy died on the highway. By the time I got there (45 minutes?), it started and ran fine. He drove it for ahile, shut it down, drove it some more and it died again. I finally got it in and looked it over and test drove it. It died on me twice (Both times, I was pulled over and stopped. How lucky is that?) When it died, it showed that the Desired ICP dropped to zero just before the actual and the ICP voltage did. I wasn't watching the Regulator%. Cranking, it showed about 210 ICP and .19 ICP voltage. After it sat for maybe 10 minutes, it finally started.
Now, my question is, do I have a ICP problem or an electrical problem? My thinking is an electrical problem because to me, it doesn't seem like the oil would cool off enough in 10 minutes to allow it to become thick enough to build pressure again. I also noticed that the ICP dropped down to as low as about 590 at low idle once the oil temp was up to about 190, but it wasn't always that low - usually it was around 625ish. I have it idling right now and recording Sync now, but of course it's running fine. If my sync drops out, I need to change the Cam sensor or crank sensor, correct? If it doesn't drop out, I have a ICP problem. Does that sound right?