It clunks real bad at random times. Whether I have had the e-brake on or not (sometimes even with it on, so I have not put any load on the locking mechanism in the tranny).
Its a 2014... Does not matter if its inclined ground or flat.
My 08 F350 V10 it replaces never once clunked.
I have a 2016 f350 super duty with 6.7L engine, at random times engine sounds like it has a rod knock, give more fuel, it goes away, driving at 40 to 55 mph the whole vehicle shakes all at different times and different days vehicle has under 6500 miles want to now anything before going back to dealer..
View 6 RepliesMy co-worker has an 06 F250 SC 4x4 and is getting a P0713 code. 2006 Ford F250 6.0L Diesel ... Tow/haul light comes on flashing at random times. Truck is reading a P0713 code which is the TFT Sensor Failure/Replacement
Ford dealership is telling me that I also have to pull the valve body and install the new upgraded wiring harness (3-3.5 hours labor) but a thread on this forum stated I just needed to replace the sensor in the tranny pan and reconnect the wire harness. Do I need to upgrade the wiring harness?
Lately my truck has been smoking at random, it's not very often & only seems to happen while stopped with transmission still in gear (traffic light, etc). And at this time, I believe its a faulty fuel injector (still originals) although not confirmed.
2006 w/a 6.0 Diesel (130,000 miles) no CEL
Random Smoke 6.0 Diesel - YouTube....
I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
I picked up a 2016 F250 Powerstroke in the first of March. I owned a 2011 before and loved it.
The 2016 has been great so far, but I've noticed a sound that wasn't present in my 2011.
When the transmission is warmed up, I get a "cla-click" sound from the transmission area when sifting from park to reverse. It doesn't do it all the time and I can only hear it, not "feel" it.
This AM I heard a similar click sound when I came to a complete stop. I only heard it while stopping, not while taking off. I could repeat it almost every time I stopped. I was in drive the whole time I heard the click sound while stopping.
What it may be? I know sounds are one of the hardest things to communicate/diagnose.
I have an 03 Excursion with 220,000 on the clock. Started getting harder starts randomly about a month ago, maybe a little more, pulled codes got p2290. Reset everything, changed the oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, eventually the ICP sensor itself and rebuilt the IPR with new screen kit and rings. Hard start went away for about a week but ICP pressure was dropping drastically during hard throttle or even trying to go up a good sized hill. I had a bypass oil filtration kit on and noticed that the connection on top of the oil filter housing was weeping at idle and leaking enough at throttle to possibly cause an issue. Replaced with new OEM filter cap and fill cap, and ended up with a no start and low ICP pressure.
Got it started today after a long crank (15+ seconds), ICP and IPR at idle both warm and cold are mid 600's and low 20's (I can get actuals if needed). After reaching operating temp starts fine after shut off (both immediate and after sitting for 20 minutes). I picked up a selection of parts and tools including an ICP air test tool. Also grabbed a hpop gasket kit and the updated O-rings for the whole system. Live scanning wise I have an Edge CTS and also an SCT x4 that I can use.
I have a '97 Ranger with about 120k, 5 spd manual transmission, 2wd. For the last 2-3 months I'm hearing and feeling a clunking or rattling noise (I can't decide which it is) coming from the rear of the vehicle at random times.
I can't really predict or find a pattern of when the noise will happen, but it seems like it is most likely to happen when I'm either accelerating up a hill or when I'm braking relatively hard. It happens whether the clutch is in or out. Doesn't seem to matter. It does NOT happen when idling, only when traveling. I don't ever remember it happening at highway speed (65mph).
If I have my hand on the stick shift I can feel the shaking / rattling as it happens. There seems to be no impact on the performance of the vehicle - no additional trouble shifting into or out of gear, accelerating, or anything else.
On a recent trip I towed a 1,000 lb trailer and I did not feel or hear the noise at all during that trip (about an hour each way). Any guess as to whats going on?
2003 6.0 FX4 w/ Auto Transmission, 180,000 miles
Last transmission service - unknown (I have owed the truck for 3,000 miles). I just acquired a clunking sound when shifting from R to P or R to N. No noise from N to D or lower or back up to D. It does not grind into gear, just clunks one time. It is rather loud.
All shifting while driving is normal, no slipping, or noise. This occurs on level ground, at operating temp, and +-650 RPMs.
Fluid level is okay. No strange odor. What will be the next steps to investigate?
Had a hot no start going, found dummy plug issue, replaced dummy plugs. While in there I cleaned the injectors (passenger side only) and put back together. Cranked multiple times, had to recharge batteries a few times as it is in the 10 - 20 degree temp range. No joy on re-start following the work.
Numbers I'm getting are:
KOEO With ICP connected:
ICP - 0
ICV - .07
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - eventually builds to 400+-
ICV - eventually increases to .13
IPR - maxed at 84.7
ICV too low so...
After disconnecting ICP
KOEO
ICP - 0
ICV - 0 (disconnected)
IPR - 14.8
While cranking
ICP - up to 1693
IPR - to 65.5
Still no start.
Ran through FICM check and the numbers are fine - 48 key on, 47 key during buzz, 47-48 while cranking.
I do get oil pressure registering on the dash gauge.
Fuel is in the filter housing
Oil filter housing refills with oil as expected when cranking
Only code is the P2285 once the ICP is disconnected
2003 f350 6.0 psd
Long story short, 7 out of 10 times when I turn on my headlights (while driving) my ABS light will flash, all gauges will drop to zero then instantly resume their place, lights are on and everything seems to be normal..
Recently it seems that when ever what I just explained above happens, and I press the brake pedal shortly after the truck pulls to the right. Harder I press the brakes the harder it pulls the truck off the road. Pretty scary stuff..
Brakes look good. Although I haven't checked the fluid or for any real notable leaks.
So I took the wife to the pumpkin farm today, and was we were pulling into the grass/mud parking lot, my tires just started spinning. I stopped because I wasn't going anywhere and I turned my truck to go into 4x4(SOTF) and it made this LOUD clunk and then went into 4x4. Everything is ok and I tried it 4-5 after that to see if it would keep making that noise and it did not.
View 14 RepliesI replaced the speed sensor in the differential yesterday, but it didn't make a lick of difference. I've been having intermittent problems with the speedo ever since I bought the truck. When the speedo starts acting up, the truck will sometimes momentarily cut out and buck a couple of times. It was first mentioned this post, post # 35. I had the truck in the shop for a new oil cooler, EGR delete, standpipes, dummy plugs and STC fittings, and when I got it back it ran worse than before as detailed here in post #1. It turned out I had a torn IPR screen.
I replaced that and it cleared up all of the problems I had except for the speedo problem I originally had. The truck actually ran perfectly on the way home from work yesterday, about 20 miles. No speedo problems and no cutting out. This is not unusual, as the problem is only intermittent. I put the new VSS in last night but did not drive it until this morning. This morning, same thing again, speedo swinging crazily. When cruising about 70 it the speedo would suddenly jump up to about 90 and that is when the truck would cut out and buck a couple of time. The VSS is a Dorman product and proudly displays "MADE IN CHINA".
Should I try a better quality sensor? Rock Auto sells an Airtex/Wells sensor that seems to be of good quality, but I can't determine where it was manufactured. The only reason I bought the Dorman is because I could get it next day from Amazon. Should I be looking at another source for the problem? This is very discouraging because this one thing is what is keeping the truck from being mechanically sound, and I'm trying to get it ready to tow an RV this summer.
So my recently purchased 2005 f350 has an abnormal long crank. I searched all the internet and everything pointed to STC fitting. Well I knew I had some other things I wanted to knock out so I ended up buying an update kit from sinister diesel. It included an updated fitting, new degas cap, updared turbo oil feed and return lines, blue spring update, and "dummy" tubes or something like that.
During the last few days I have removed the turbo, and finally got to the hpop. As I was removing the turbo I thought I might have the updated lines as there was no braided area in the feed tube. Sure enough I pulled the hpop and I have the one piece fitting. So now that I have wasted all this time removing all this stuff for no reason I still don't know what is causing my long crank. I am going to probably install the new fitting and lines anyway but where do I go from here?
I have a 2011 F-250 with 112k miles.
On 11/25/2016 at approximately 110k miles: my truck was 100% stock. I was about a half hour into a 3 hour drive and I got a Check Engine Light. I stopped to get some food and my truck was idling for about 10 minutes when the light came on. My code reader said it was for P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance". I cleared the code, restarted the truck and drove away.. I drove about another 5 minutes until I started hearing a real bad air leak and the truck just didn't feel like it was driving right. Check engine light never came back on, but it just didn't feel right so I towed it home.
The truck went to the dealer, they said they found the EGR Inlet Tube was cracked, and that explained the air leak sound I heard when I continued driving, and they said the truck was probably running rich from the lack of air and that set the P0278 code. They replaced the tube and everything was fine.
On 12/14/2016 with around 111,500 miles: upset that just one pipe breaking could take down the whole truck with no one having that part in stock to get me back on the road, I "deleted" my truck. Removed the DPF, installed "block-off" plates for the EGR (which goes in place of the EGR inlet tube), a Cold-Air Intake, and H&S MiniMaxx. (Exact parts can be found in my signature).
On 12/25/2016 with around 112,500 miles: I was getting ready for work and I started my truck using the Ford Factory Remote Start that was original equipment on the truck. The truck ran for about 10 minutes when I hopped in it and took off. As soon as I got in it, The Check Engine Light was on and I had a code for P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance". I erased the code and restarted the truck.. drove to work (around 50 miles) with no problems. Truck ran fine, I never felt any problems, and no smoke or anything like that.
10 hours later I'm getting ready to leave work and let the truck run on remote start for 10 minutes. I hop in the truck and drive away.. there's no check engine light, but, my tuner says there's two DTC's.. P0278 "Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance" and now P0281 "Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance"... I cleared the codes, restarted the truck, and drove home with no problems.
12/26/2016 I started the truck on remote start again for 10 minutes. No check engine light, but the tuner says there's one DTC for P0281 "Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance". Cleared the code, restarted the truck, and drove to work with no problems. Got back in the truck after 12 hours, drove home and didn't get a DTC or Check Engine Light on the drive home.
12/27/2016: No DTC's or Check Engine light. Where I should start looking to fix this?
I have searched and have found a few threads on various transmission shifting issues. However nothing really pertaining to 13+ trucks that is only happening under certain conditions. It seems earlier trucks with problems were experiencing it all the time, not intermittent.
Here's what I got.... This only happens when:
- temp is 20 degrees or colder
- Truck has been sitting and is cold
- Trans temp under 70-80 degrees
- Only happens on the 3 to 2 DOWNshift when cold
The first few downshifts from 3 to 2 have a slight clunk/bump to them...just enough to feel it. After the first few initial downshifts from 3 to 2, it will not do it then, shifts fine and smooth. After a minutes of driving it, it will not do it until the next time it meets the list of items above. If I skip this gear manually until it has warmed up, it will not do it when returning to it.
-All other gears both up and down shifting feel good just the 3 to 2 when it does happen.
Once the transmission is warm or the temp is warmer outside the problem is non-existent and transmission shifts great in all gears and is smooth as butter!
Whenever I take off from a stop or slow to a stop, there's a clunk in the drivetrain. It feels like a bit of play before the drivetrain engages and when it releases...torque converter maybe? Taking to the tranny shop soon...
View 10 RepliesWhile driving into work today I noticed that when I turn the exhaust brake on the light flashes 4 times and turns back off. This definitely does not seem normal but it is cold outside. Could it being 9* have anything to do with this?
View 11 RepliesI've got an '05 F-250 starts and dies numerous times, have to rev throttle to keep running then it stays running. I've replaced FICM, PCM, Eng. harness, IPR, CMP, what else is there to do?
View 3 RepliesSo the Ex is starting to behave badly again in the morning! From time to time, when starting first thing in the AM cold the Ex will spit sputter and die all while puffing black smoke. Total time is under 3 seconds.
Start it again and it is fine. I have not had this issue before. There are absolutely no codes what so ever! And since it is such a short time sputtering nothing really shows up on the ScanGauge 2.....
My 2011 F250 6.7 started throwing multiple codes a couple of weeks ago. I cleared them but they all came back at the same time. What these are pointing to? I'm assuming they're all related?
P0402 Exhaust gas flow excessive detection
P1249 Wastegate control valve performance
P0471 Exhaust pressure sensor A circuit range/performance
It throws 9 codes total, the three listed above, 3 times each.