Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Trailer Lights Going On And Off
Aug 5, 2013
Been having a on/off problem with my trailer lights. Some times the right hand side does not work, them it starts working. I thought it was my trailer until I rented a bobcat this weekend. They couldn't get the right side lights to work.
I stopped by my Ford dealer and a service tech came out and checked out my pigtail. All checked ok. It seems odd that both trailers would not work on the right side. Two different types of trailers. One is my RV, the other was a flat bed for hauling the bobcat.
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Borrowed a buddys trailer that had wiring issues. I ended up blowing a mini fues & maxi fuse in my truck. 06 F350 CC ... Replaced both fuses in the truck and had park lights on the truck but now dont get any lights on any trailers. All factory plugs 7pin & 4 pin. I get turn signals and brake lights on the trailers but that is all. If the fuses are good were should I start looking for problems? or is there more fuses I may be missing. I have metered all the fuses under the dash aswell as under hood all check out. Where to go next ???
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Is there a fuse or something to check? All other lights work, just book the running lights
2006 f250 4x4 CC
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Last night I was heading home from a two day race and found that my turn signals wasn't working. the running lights are working and obviously i could feel the brakes working.
well i hooked up some jumpers to a 12v battery and the 7 pin and the lights work. to make 100% sure it works i hooked it up to my neighbors Tacoma. it all worked. well..........
On my last f150 when it was new this happened to me too. it ended up being the turn signal fuse on my truck.
I hooked right back to my truck again and just made sure my plug was all the way in and still nothing so i know its my truck side.
Now my last f150 owners manual had a section to where it told you what fuse is what and where. well i don't even see the f250 fuse box is and don't know which one it is to see if its blown.
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I've been looking for the fuse that runs the trailer running lights and couldnt find it and it got dark on me.. Does anyone know if its under the hood or inside the cab? I blew the running lights fuse hooking up the trailer while the lights was on...
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I have a 2012 ford 150 what fuse controlls the trailer lights.
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luckily about 5 minutes from home my trailer running lights AND the lights on my dump truck body stopped working. i assume they hooked the lights to my dump body to the trailer lights. i was towing an old trailer that has electrical issues so I'm sure that caused it. Under the hood there is a 30 amp fuse #26 that i think is the culprit. (All the other similar fuses are shiny and that one is kinda black). I've never bought fuses like this before, what type is it? it's a big square one. Are they available at auto zone? Does the whole thing pull out and do you need a special tool for it?
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Hooked up the toyhauler Friday and before we were off of our street I got the "Wiring Fault on Trailer", brakes on trailer worked, got out and verified the lights were working so we proceeded on.
When we got to the destination the manual says that if the fault stays on when disconnected it is an issue on the truck side, it is still on when the trailer is disconnected.
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My trailer wiring is not working, at least from what I can tell. Embarrassingly, I know this because the little brake light I have in my trailer hitch no longer lights up. I've tried different bulbs and a different unit, so it's definitely the wiring. I do not have access to a trailer right now, so unfortunately that's all I have to go on. It's plugged into the 4 pin jack. Is this something I should be going to the dealer for, or more like a blown/loose fuse or something?
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Hooked up to a bumper hitch trailer tonight with my 13 F350 and didn't have any lights but the brakes worked. Tested the bumper hitch trailer connector and there was no power on any terminals, with the tester still connected to the same ground I checked the trailer connection in my bed for my gooseneck trailers and everything was working. Just to check the trailer I hooked up my wife's 2015 F150 and all the lights worked. Can't figure out why my gooseneck connection works but not my bumper connector, also looks like my license plate lights are not working either.
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It just came on when I ran up to the gas station followed by the airbag light and the traction control light.. truck ran fine. I've tried looking this up found some people have had this message and there truck won't start.
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I only get the fault when backing up. Driving forward it's never a problem. The truck is a 2015 F250. We are pulling a 33' travel trailer. Both are new. I was not sure if the fault when backing was something that happens or if it might be indicative of a problem. The manual says it's not an indicator of a problem. Rather, there might be an issue. Again, it works fine when traveling in a forward motion.
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2005 Excursion 6.0 with normal bullet proof mods... towing 6000# dual axle enclosed race car trailer.
I've been towing this same package since 2008 all over the eastern half of the US and averaging right around 10MPG.... hand calculated from fill up to fill up. Sometime a bit more on a flat run to Daytona, or a bit less through the mountains... but very close to 10 MPG.
Well the factory trailer tires finally wore out and I replaced them with 8 ply Maxxis M8008 trailer tires...... highly recommended by the camper crowd.
Since then, I've been round trip Baltimore to Pittsburg, and Baltimore to Daytona (total of 2500 miles) and I've been averaging a bit over 12 MPG consistently..... again hand calculated. Same package, same highway speeds.... nothing has changed in my towing style.
Seems almost to good to be true. At this rate the tires will almost pay for themselves by the time they are worn out. Any trailer tires make such a difference ?
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I have a 15 F350 DRW 6.7 pulling a 19K fiver with 8K axles and disc brakes, I have to have my brake controller set at 10 to get the brakes to work well. The pads are good, just bled the system using a power bleeder, controller is set to electric over hydraulic with max gain. Why I need to have the controller set to max?
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I have both a hydraulic dump trailer with two 12v batteries and an RV trailer with two 6v batteries to supply 12v. Both trailer's batteries are wired to be charged from the tow vehicle if the TV is equipped with a charge line.
Does the OEM 7 pin connector on a 2005 Ford 6.0 F250 CC 4X4 have a charging line on it? If so which terminal / pin is it?
What gauge of wire is it and how much amperage will it deliver to the connector? For testing, when is it hot? When the truck is running only? When the key is on? Is it hot all of the time?
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And new 2015 king ranch hooked my trailer up for the first time today... all lights work and brake controller reads gain output but brakes on the trailer do not work at all.
They work fine on my other truck?
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I still have my 2011 6.7 f350 CC. I have a triple axle (single wheel) gooseneck tilt deck trailer that I pull my older dozer and backhoe on.
With the trailer brake gain set to 10 I don't have as much brake engagement as I would like. It actually wont lock them up at all when adjusting the gain. Loaded I don't feel any engagement when manually sliding the controller.
On my sons 99 f350, with after market controller he can adjust his output so that the brakes engaugelock at just about any adjustment (way over breaking) so I believe the trailer brakes work fine, I just don't get enough output from the factory controller.
Is there any additional adjustments the factory controller has or any suggestions to increase the output more so the brakes have a bit more engagement?
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2012 F250 Lariat with 18k on the clock. FOr the past two months I've had a temporary side job on weekends and had to haul some trailers. I noticed my trailer gain operates sporadically and if I try and adjust it she tells me there's no trailer connected. I've edited the settings and reset all the settings also. I find this particularly annoying when towing the 4,000 lb trailer but I'm also hauling single axle trailers and it hasn't registered that I'm towing once.
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I drained my batteries enough that I needed a jump after the last time I was troubleshooting trailer wiring, since I keyed on a bunch of times. What fuse or relay do I need to pull out next time? I'm thinking of pulling fuse 302, HFCM relay (or fuse 7 in the disto box under hood) to disable the fuel pump, but what fuse or relay is for the glow plugs?
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Brought my truck (2012 F350) for recall service for one of the faulty exhaust temperature sensors. It took them one week to replace the sensor (!), then when I came to pick it up I got: "Trailer Brake Module Fault" message on the display.
I have never seen this message, since I own the truck (I am original owner). The service adviser said it will take a minute to reprogram the module and took the truck back to the shop. Came back after a while, saying that it didn't work and I need to leave the truck, so another technician can work on it tomorrow. Tomorrow came and I got the call that they reprogrammed the module, but the message still shows up, so they need to work on it (another day!).
As of now they still don't know what is going on. Apparently they broke something while replacing the EGT sensor and how to fix it.
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On our way home from North Carolina, we stopped for lunch. When walking back to the truck, I noticed a huge oil puddle underneath the truck. It took about a quart to bring it to the middle line on the stick. Kept driving it home with oil blowing underneath the truck and covering the travel trailer (very unhappy wife!!). Where to look? It looks like it's coming from the valley and pouring down the back. I just replaced the oil cooler when I did the egr delete. I used about 1.25 gallons on the way home.
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