Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Traction Control Turn Off And Stay Off When Push The Button?
Jan 26, 2013
Does the traction control turn off and stay off when you push the button? I read an owners manual and the way it is written makes me wonder. It makes it sound like the traction control reengages when you put the truck in reverse. Even when you had it turned off.
What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?
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1993 ford ranger ... Having issues with washer fluid not working. Mine has started cutting out or not even working when I push the button. But if bang it on the end of the handle with something hard it will work just long enough to clean the salt off the window.
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I have 2 messages showing up in the message center / control panel. I have taken the truck to the dealership and we cannot recreate them while the truck is at the dealership. How it can be resolved.
2013 Ford Superduty Platinum : 33,800 miles and the truck is stock
Messages : service traction control / Downhill decent control fault
This will happen just driving down the road or just after starting the truck and taking off.
It has happened towing my work trailer and also not having the trailer connected to the truck.
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How to completely turn it off, I got nothing so far. I cant do it with my H&S, I have access to ford IDS which is also unable to turn it off. The only thing I have found to work is unplugging a wheel speed sensor, which sets off dash lights... Im thinking of finding a body control module without advancetrac.
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Why my traction control light stays on? just installed sikky headers. The light will not turn off no matter how long i hold the traction button. Could it be a sensor? No VSC or CEL only traction control light...
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My right rear tire picked up a screw this evening heading back toward Seattle from Chelan. I put the spare on and continued on my way. I noticed for the first few miles the traction control warning light was on. It went off and stayed off until I stopped for fuel and again it came on for a few miles. I'm suspecting this is due to a slight diameter difference between the 20" wheels with the Michelins and the 18" spare. I really hope this didn't stress the differential (3.55 ELD). As I understand it, unless locked the ELD is open all the time..... I would assume Ford wouldn't equip the truck with an incompatibly sized spare......
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My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
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2014 F250 6.2. I turn traction control off while plowing or any winter driving. With it off I can spin rear tires,but as soon as there is the slightest turn in the front wheels its like something takes over. Lose of power and sounds like anti lock brakes kick in. Is this normal. I like to throw in 2wd and spin around while plowing. Also the kid in me has never left and I like to drift in turns. It takes all the fun out of winter driving.
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I had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.
My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.
My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?
I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?
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I have a "VAN" Ford E350 and I need to check push rod on cylinder 1 and 5 left bank, how to do this?
Is ok if I remove the ARP head stup then check push rod and then re torque the head stud?
Full Story here : [URL] ....
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I have already logged 6K miles on her, crazy, but it's my job. I have pulled 5 maybe 6 trailers (form trailers, about 15K pounds loaded, this time of year). Loaded or unloaded, when I push the throttle in 2nd, 3rd gear, I feel a shudder, like transmission shudder.I know this thing throws down 800 ft. lbs. of torque, should I not be pushing it so hard? Or, what am I feeling?
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2012 Golf R ; only mod is APR software with launch control and no lift shift. When i shift hard into second power is cut like traction control is being activated. To be clear the instrument cluster indicates ASR is off. I have two codes that pop up in VCDS (no check engine light) these codes have popped up at least twice now. They are below.
005634 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 2
[Code] ....
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'03 Excusion 6.0psd....new batteries a year ago, new starter a month ago, head gaskets etc a year ago....
Today I go out and start it up, no problem. Gather up the kids and head out to load up. When I climb in, I hit the unlock button to make sure the kid's doors are open and the engine stumbles.
I thought maybe I was imagining things so I hit it again and the same thing happened but it died but fired right back up. Drove the kids to school and it ran fine, no problems.
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My traction control lights is on and stays on during driving. Any reason for this?
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My 09 camry didn't come with the traction control button. I don't want to do the pedal dance every time I want to turn it off. Is there any way to install a button to turn it off just like the factory one would?
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Coming up the mountains here in Ca last night. Snowing and slippery. Put truck in 4x4 light came in saying engaged. Driving very slowly and almost slid off road with two kids and wife in car. Then noticed that there was no front traction happening. Locked hubs manually and all was ok. I think this is a serious problem. If in auto and dash confirms 4x4 engaged then it should be. I am just very lucky to not have seriously hurt my family or someone else. Is this a recall on Fords part I truly think they need to be held accountable if so.
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Alright so I have an 09 Corolla sport and cannot find the traction control button. I feel extremely stupid but I just can't find it..
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So the other day I was waiting on my friend outside her job, but the car was on off, I got bored and pushed the Push Start button twice without holding the brake so only the stereo will turn on. However when I turned on the car again to driver off the stereo shut off and wouldn't turn on. It's been three days now and I was hoping it was some sort of glitch that would fix itself out, but it hasn't. Its a 2011 Sonata without the Navigation, Just the simple bluetooth fm/am radio with CD.
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2002 jetta AC only works if I turn on and then start car
1- get in car, push in AC button
2- start car
3- feel cold air
4- will blow cold forever (if car is running)
If I am driving and turn on, it does not work. Seems that it trys to come on, kicks compressor for maybe a second then waits 5 seconds and trys to kick again. The pressures are high but in green (OK), when I first saw this I added a little Freon , it did not change characteristic.
When it does not work the rad-fan comes on and blows, When it works the rad fan blows as it should.
This is a 4-cyl 2.0 GL and does not have climate control...
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Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
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I painted the senser on the dash black on the inside so the headlights stay on all the time. My question is the dash lights don't stay on all the time, I assumed they would with the headlights on and senser cover painted, drives me nuts with the dash lights coming on and off. How to make dash lights stay on.
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