Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Touchscreen Stopped Working / Completely Locked Up
Nov 2, 2014
The touchscreen for radio, navigation, etc. stopped working. Completely locked up. My truck is a 14 with less then 3000 miles.
View 9 RepliesThe touchscreen for radio, navigation, etc. stopped working. Completely locked up. My truck is a 14 with less then 3000 miles.
View 9 RepliesFirst time ever. It has 175K on it. Ran fine yesterday. Went out this morning and it almost started, then stopped firing. It was facing down hill, so I thought possibly it wasn't getting the proper volume of oil, so I checked it and had to added 2 quarts to get it up to the proper level. This did not work.
I do have one question: Does the Water in Fuel light stay on until it starts? After turning it over again, it wanted to start at first, then stopped firing completely, but while cranking the WiF light goes off. Does this mean that there is no water in the fuel?
I m keeping it on the charger to make sure the batteries are up to snuff when I try it again. I only crank it for about 15 seconds before I let it rest. I don't have a code reader but I do have a ScanGuage2.
I have a 2003 CC f350 6.0. I am having some ac problems. I replaced the Compressor , dryer , orifice tube and condenser I pulled vacuum and charged to proper level. I did all this about 3 weeks ago. Was blowing 38 out of center vent driving down the high way. Ambient temp about 100.
OK now for the problem. Yesterday I was at the parts store truck running. AC was cold when i got there. Blowing hot air as i left. Never got cold compressor never kicked back in. I put gauges on it this afternoon High/low pressures where about 10lbs over ambient temp (Engine off)
Ac will not engage at all. Jumped low side cut out nothing. Replaced ac relay old one tested bad still no ac. I can supply 12V manually to the clutch with my power probe and ac kicks on and work great. There is no voltage at the ac clutch connector. I am at a loss on this.
There is power 12V at the low pressure cut out pigtail. There is 12V on 2 of the high side pressure cut out pins. But no voltage at the ac clutch. You can feel the new AC relay engaging whenever the ac is turned on (engine running).
My cruise control stopped working today on my trip back from Yosemite. Tried looking through the owners manual, but apparently it doesnt have its own fuse. Everything else seems to work just fine, so I am gonna start there.
View 14 RepliesJust got back from a 1200 mile camp trip pulling an 18K toy hauler. 500 miles into the trip the HVAC blower stopped working. Right after the torrential downpours we had last week. Did some limited checking and found the relay under the hood real hot. Swapped it out with the DEF relay and no luck. All the fuses were good.
This was in the Littleton, MA area. Dragged the truck and camper to a Ford dealer who had no interest - "make an appointment for sometime next week". Dragged the trailer to another Ford dealer who was equally not interested. From here we towed the 130 miles to our next stop.
You really miss your HVAC when you have to drive with all the windows open and two fur dropping Golden Retrievers in the back seat. The fur just circles around and ends up either in your eyes, nose or mouth.
Next day I was off in search of a repair. 20 or so miles north I find the next Ford dealer not intrested. Now I'm pissed and rant a little bit at the dealer.
I did almost 20 years in new car service, all highway dealers. Not once did we turn down a vacationing family on the road with vehicle troubles. We have even done engines and transmissions for travelers broken down.
60 miles to the next dealer in Laconia, NH, Irwin Motors, Ford, Lincoln and Toyota.
Same initial story “we are really busy and backed up”.
But, if I was willing to wait a little bit they would see what they could do.
45 minutes later I get the news that I need a blower motor and it is ordered.
No problem. I show up at 2, park the 5<sup>th</sup> wheel in the lot and at 3:30 we have a free wash coupon and we are on our way. And the service people couldn’t have been more pleasant to deal with. Even the techs came out to visit the dogs as we were walking around. 5 stars for Irwin Motors.
luckily about 5 minutes from home my trailer running lights AND the lights on my dump truck body stopped working. i assume they hooked the lights to my dump body to the trailer lights. i was towing an old trailer that has electrical issues so I'm sure that caused it. Under the hood there is a 30 amp fuse #26 that i think is the culprit. (All the other similar fuses are shiny and that one is kinda black). I've never bought fuses like this before, what type is it? it's a big square one. Are they available at auto zone? Does the whole thing pull out and do you need a special tool for it?
View 3 Replies I was driving my F2007 Ford Focus and all the lights on the dash went on and then all the power went off and the car stopped. Once it stopped, there was no way to get the power on and I couldn't switched gears. I guess I shifted into park once the car started freaking out and now it's impossible to switch to neutral. The only light on the dash that works is the anti-theft symbol, which seems to go on for a second when I turn the ignition on. It doesn't stay on solid.
From what I've googled, it seems like the car's computer got tripped into activating the car's anti-theft locking system? I'm not really sure. (I was driving the car while this happened -- scary!) But AAA towed the car to a random auto repair shop near my house. Should I be having a Ford dealership look at this? Or is it fine in the hands of a private repair shop? Timing couldn't be worse -- I was going to drive my car across country for a new job in two days, so I'm hoping this can be sorted quickly and my car will be safe to drive by then.
So since I bought this truck a few weeks back I noticed it rode alittle "rougher" than some of the other trucks I test drove. But for the life of me I could not find anything suspension wise so I crawled under and looked else where to find this......
I'm ordering new mounts from AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories I've read good and bad things about using after market poly bushings, and I'm just not wanting to take the risk. I want it to ride like factory. There are a total of 8 mounts, just the rears are going to run $150.
Also on a side note, I'm thinking of swapping out the exhaust. The downpipe is a full 4' and its hitting in alot of places. Do most of you run the 3.5" DP like MBRP makes?
Passenger far rear Top of same one, basically gone Here you can actually see where the shell has been hitting the frame bracket The middle ones look ok but are pretty dry rotted Drivers far rear is completely gone top and bottom The exhaust pipe is whacking the cross member because the hanger isn't even being used
Was driving the last week and happened to look down and notice the display for my climate controls was completely black. They were still running at whatever I had them last set at but couldn't change anything or turn the system off. Pulled into a parking lot, turned the truck off then started it again and everything was working fine.
Couple days later, was driving down the road again, glanced down and now my climate display, stereo display and odometer display were all black but once again everything was still functioning, just couldn't change anything. Turned my wipers on to check those, heard a little click, and all the displays popped back on like normal???? Wipers worked just fine too.
I'm assuming a short somewhere but wouldn't even know where to start to look or if it's even within my limited skill set to try and track down.
I am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
View 6 RepliesI have a late model 2004 F-350 6.0 powerstroke. 182K miles. Auto Transmission
What happened. Condensed version
Left house, drove out to highway, got on highway. Everything feels normal.
About 1 mile of going 70mph, I notice I can no longer accelerate. after 1/2 mile, I begin loosing speed, and engine will not rev past 1000 rpm. I eventually pull over (another mile), put in neutral and will not rev past 1000. put in drive and start to idle to highway exit. it gets about another .5 mile and begin going up a hill when it completely dies. Will not restart.
No prior issues with the truck. Full tank of fuel.
What I have tested so far. Ficm 48.5 volts cranking. Icp .225V KOEO, .875V Cranking. LPOP is registering pressure on the dash. No Fault codes.
I have gotten it to start twice now, one time it allowed me to rev to 750 rpm, where i used 4 low to make it onto a trailer. second time would not rev at all. idling at 250-300 rpm.
That same night as it died, I drained the transmission pan/ TP filter and filled with 8.5 Quarts of Mercon LV. This is the first time I have done this since purchasing @ 161K miles. Everything seemed normal, no leaks present.
Also my buddy showed me how to enter the dash test mode and we cycled through these. Not sure if this is relevant.
So, What do I test next? I don't think its HPOP issue since the ICP is reading .875 volts at crank. I did unplug the ICP and it still would not start. I don't think its the injector side of the ficm because they buzz as normal with koeo, but this is a possibility as I don't have equipment to test. Egr valve is clean for age of truck.
Would it be possible that the Mercon LV knocked crud loose in the transmission causing it to fail/seize? would siezed tranny cause the engine to behave in this manner?
Fuel bowl on top of the engine was full of fuel. I have not pressure tested it yet as I can hear the pump running during key on.
could i have a bad crank or cam sensor?
Multi-injector failure?
Bad Icp with HPO failure?
2003 F150 4wd with auto climate control. My blower for heat and AC completely stopped working a few weeks ago. I have checked all fuses, i replaced the relay under the dash, i replaced the blower motor control module. I supplied power to the blower motor itself and it ran fine with no noises. I ran the self test on the controller in the dash under the radio and it passed. I am not sure what else to try.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 E350. The front HVAC completely stopped working, but still getting good air flow from all rear vents. Checked fuses, but not sure where to go next. Not sure if it could be the blower if rear vents still work. Have read that a vacuum leak would cause it to default to the defrost setting, but that isn't working either.
View 5 RepliesJust over 7000 miles all of a sudden I got this loud grinding noise in the rear end like a brake locked up. Pulled into a parking lot. Don't think it's brakes. Put the truck in reverse it got even louder for a second then it quieted down after that. Naturally this happened on a Saturday.
View 6 RepliesWhat is the common cause of brake light failure? I drive a 2005 F150 Lariat 4X4. When i started the lights flickered until they completely stopped working. To me it seems like a short, is there a specific, common place where a wire is not properly mounted or rubs on something?
View 1 RepliesRecently my power windows stopped working...sort of. Here's what I mean: If the drivers door is closed none of the windows will go down. However, if I open the drivers door halfway or all the way I can roll up/down all the windows. If the windows are down and the drivers door is closed I can, almost always, roll up the drivers window, however the other windows in the truck will usually not roll up. Open the door halfway and up they go.
A couple of other things I have noticed. When I press the down button for the drivers door window, with the door closed, I can hear the relay, under the dash, kick on and the window will move about a millimeter down then stop. Additionally, the courtesy light on the drivers door comes on while the door is closed. I haven't checked if the other courtesy lights come on at the same time.
Hopefully my explanation is understandable. I would love to solve this issue. Getting tired of opening the door to roll down the windows. Plus when there's a fly in the truck and I'm driving I can't get it out.
So loss power on take off and then stopped at store quick shut it down. Came out of store ten minutes later no start just turns over and over. I replaced IPR last year the one on passenger side near frame if that's correct and perhaps this is the ICP near back of engine?
View 14 RepliesI have searched and the only thing close is bad sensor for water in fuel light but it does not say they lost power. When driving or leaving from a stopped position, if I put any extra load on engine by pressing on accelerator pedal fast the water in fuel light comes on and the glow plug light comes on and the truck loses all power. Not 12V power just engine power. I have to let off the pedal and the lights go out and I have power again. Until I press the pedal hard again and it does it again. I have drained the filters and replaced them and still the same.
View 14 RepliesCruise just stopped working. The fuses all check out ok. What would be the next simplest thing that I could check before turning the problem over to a mechanic?
View 14 RepliesWell a few days ago I pulled up to a gas station on my way to work for some coffee and since I leave for work before 6:30 AM my headlights were on. Well only the running lights were working. Well I shrug it off and later that night I come to the realization that both headlights weren't working. I tried the high beams and they do work. I also pulled both bulbs and both the filaments on each bulb seemed to be intact. What could cause this? I checked fuses 9 and 11 under the hood and they were both fine. I'm kinda at a loss right now.
View 9 Replies03' F350 Crew Cab DRW FX4 Lariat 6.0
180k miles
Has EGR Delete
Blue Spring Kit and recent Fuel Filter Kit
Last Friday I got the truck back from a local mechanic that had replaced the water pump. Took it out to put fuel in it last night. About a mile from the house it felt like it bucked then died. While still rolling I stuck it in Neutral and started it back up. Got fuel and back home, no problem. Total trip around 4 miles.
This morning I get about a mile from home (other direction) and it does the same, engine quits and it rolls to a stop. Except now it won't crank. Has electric power, just won't turn over. Both batteries are pretty new Napa big CCA ( I believe 800 ).
I walk back home and get my '04 F250 6.0 (180k also) and drive back to the stricken 350. Thinking a battery may have crashed a cell I remove the ground from one battery and jump it off with the 250. No difference. Reconnected battery #1 and Disconnected battery #2 ... Same thing, no crank.
I didn't really think it was a battery issue since it started fine, but if one of them had crashed a cell it could have shorted. No dice.
Now I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump. Would not having line pressure keep it from at least cranking? IE like a safety feature so the injectors don't try and run dry?