Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Torque Specs For Front And Back Rancho 9000XL?
Sep 6, 2012
What are the torque specs for front and back rancho 9000xl? Really want to know the front top spec with the rubber bushings that squish flat the most.The rest ill make tight.
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What are the torque specs for tie rods for a 4x4.
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I read 18lbs for the water pump but it took a cheater bar (perhaps due to corrosion) to get the water pump lower elbow bolts off.
On reinstallation, what should the lower elbow bolts be torqued to? Checked the sticky (Ziggy's Torque Specs) but didn't see the specs for this item.
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Tell me the torque specs for the various attaching nuts of the front hub assembly for the 99 F150 4x4 5.4L (large nut on the spindle, mounting bolts to back of spindle, etc if any) ? I will need them to put everything back together after checking the tone ring for my ABS problem.
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My Front axle wont go back in! It kinda was a pain to remove too; but getting it back in is like mission impossible! I've tried turning the driveshaft, the other wheel, all kinds of stuff short if beating it with a hammer.
In an hour or so I am going to take off the diff cover and see if there is anything obvious, Id rather not but... I took it apart due to noises I was hearing up front on that axle / hub. I have all new seals and such just in case anything needed it.
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Just doing the bro in law's tie rod ends and we are wondering what torque we should be putting on the castle nuts? They are greasable Moogs...
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When I'm at 60 mph and go full throttle, it doesn't seem to down shift enough and the torque seems low. But when I go 1/2-3/4 throttle, I get the power I'm looking for. I'll test it later today and see what gear it shifts to with both.
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I tried searching here for a pid to get oil pressure. Can't find it. Is it possible to get oil pressure readings on these motors? I assumed it would be because we have a dummy oil pressure gauge on the dash. I thought it would be in the pop up list of gauges on Torque but I didn't see it.
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So I got a new tranny about a month ago. Everything works flawlessly. Until today.... Going up hills even small ones feels like I'm towing a house. No torque felling. In 3rd and 4th gear (automatic) it gains boost really fast and peaks at 28 lbs. and coasting downhill it slows itself down. I can go from 60 to 40 without braking in a half mile stretch. I fist noticed something was different when I started to drive home tonight; it makes a sort of whining or howling noise. I can't quite pinpoint where it's coming from. I'm tired of this truck but love it at the same time.
2003 125k miles New tranny New injectors New oil cooler and egr cooler Possible bad HPOP
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I am installing Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro on my Yellow Submarine. To keep an eye on things. Well installing it on my tablet, and installing that in my Yellow Sub. I already have the Bluetooth dongle. What to set up, what to monitor, what to test? Etc..... I want to continuously monitor this truck while driving it. Being it went swimming.
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With my first tow under my belt from this weekend in my new-to-me truck, I quickly learned that my TC shutters in 5th if I hold fuel down enough to bog the truck before it wants to down shift. The shutters are pretty violent as compared to others I've experienced in Explorers and F150s. When do you know it is time to change it out? Or, is there something else I can or should do before changing it?
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Was trying to give back to FTE, all have been useful. So I figure I would post a problem solver. Had a nice oil leak traced to cam sensor o ring. All back together now crank no start.
Truck is half in and out of the garage, torque pro isn't pulling any codes. I did accidentally pull my alternator cable out of the connector, luckily had one to replace.
Did I wreck the sensor taking it out? Will have to try and pull the beast out tonight.
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Anything besides a worn out Torque Converter clutch that might cause the incredible amount of shaking when the transmission tries to lock the TC?
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What the torque spec is for the driveshaft to rear differential flange mounting bolts on the 99 F150 4x4 supercab?
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Searched with no results. What is the correct bolt torque for transmission pan bolts on a 2012 F350 6.7L?
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I've done the testing of hitting the brakes when the TC is locked and when it's off the shudder disappears. My question is I recently had a trans flush and both internal and external filters replaced. There was a hint of noise before then but it seems it's getting progressively worse. Could it be that they used the incorrect trans fluid? Reading through it seems as if I should follow the steps of dropping the pan and looking for signs and symptoms and then replace with the correct mercon fluid (if that's not already what's there). Then maybe some additives like shudder fix? I just want to make sure I take the correct steps to solve the problem as to not break the bank getting a new TC put in and missed something cheap and easy. Also reading it could be motor related maybe a misfire so just looking for pinpoint the problem.
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Before taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
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Ok so here is my problem now. I'm sure its in the tramny but not sure what else. My shift from 3-5 has always been a little hard. Yesterday on my way to work I noticed shifts 1 thru 3 were hitting hard. Once I got up to 65 mph it was okay. Then pulling into work when I shifted to reverse it didn't go into gear right away and then it would hit into gear. Later that evening on my way home from work it was shifting the same but seemed worse. Then my tow/haul light started flashing and it seemed like the torque convertor wouldn't lock in. It would just stay in 5th gear and the more throttle I gave it the rpms would go up but I would only get a little response from it. Then a few miles down the road it just completely shut off on me. It will not even try to turn over. I could also hear a noise coming from underneath the truck. Something ive never heard before. I really need to figure this out
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Replacing EGR cooler/ EGR valve. Are there torque specs going back together with the EGR system? or is there a forum that has all the torque specs id need to complete the job.
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I had found the torque specs for the oil plug, oil filter housing the oil filter housing drain plug but I am unable to locate now.
30 ft lb drain plug
25 ft lb filter housing
10 ft lb filter housing drain plug
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So, I was on my way back home driving through the middle of nowhere Utah late at night, when I had an injector tip crack. I was able to identify which one and unplug it so I could get to Grand Junction, CO (about 350 miles away) where I have family. After a power nap I started calling parts stores and found an injector from Advanced Auto Parts (I couldn't find a motorcraft reman, but I was restricted for time). Installed it and all seemed good so I hit the road again. However, nothing changed. It still had the bad miss (rough idle, jerking/bucking when the torque converter locks up) just like when I had the injector unplugged.
The truck is an early 2004 6.0. It's the number 4 injector. I finally got home and hooked up my AE scanner to discover a #4 injector circuit low P0270 code and circuit contribution/balance fault P0272. It's definitely missing because disabling it has no effect. This could be a loose connector at the injector or FICM, because I can't afford another injector right now.
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