Any luck reattaching tailgate end cap molding? Mine has a few broken tabs and is hanging on for dear life. But if I can reattach I would. I know I could drill a few holes and run in some self taping screws, but that would be quite ugly.
The tab(s) broke when lifting the heavy gate with the step closed one to many times. Using the left side now to close.
Part number 8C3Z9941018AA.
Item 2 in below image...
I have noticed that the tailgate doesn't sit level when opened, the cables are too short for it to horizontal. The rear of the gate is 1-1/2" higher than the front. The cables need to be about a 1/2" longer for it to sit right.
View 14 RepliesMy tailgate is getting increasingly hard to open (and it's not me getting weaker!). I now have to pull pretty hard towards the left side of the handle to get it open, whereas I used to just pull in the center without much effort and it'd fly open.
View 13 RepliesI just identified an annoying squeak as the right side of the tailgate, right at the hinge, rubbing on the section of the rear passenger side quarter panel (one with FX4 decal) where it curls around to the rear. Any way to easily adjust the tailgate slightly to the drivers side? When the tailgate is up, the gap is noticeably smaller on the passenger side, and when down, the edge of the tailgate rubs the edge of the quarter panel, paint to paint.
View 1 RepliesBacked up into a bush and it seems it was a little bit more stout than expected. There was a large branch that pushed my tailgate latch so far up now it's stuck. If you look at the pics below, there's a tab on the right hand side that was over extended and now stuck/holding the handle up. I'm a little reluctant to just try hitting it as hard as i can out of fear that I'll snap something.
View 5 RepliesMy tailgate emblem has lost the blue color. Is this a common problem? Is it easy to replace the emblem?
View 12 RepliesThe truck is running awesome but I am getting absolutely no boost. Question. If the map sensor is broken would I get no boost?
View 3 RepliesCan I run and/or drive the truck for a few days until I have the new one? If I can, should I leave this piece out or leave it in (oil filter holds it down)?
View 6 RepliesJust picked up a new to me very nice 2011 F350 SWB 4X4 Lariat. While going through it and I missed this when buying it, the top of the under-hood fuse box was missing and just covered over by a makeshift cover of rubber and black duct tape.
I have ordered and received the the new fusebox cover ( what a bear to get into place ) and then figured out that the PO had broken the clips that lock it down.
I have tried to get a long zip-tie around it, not much luck, and now I get a C-clamp into there to keep it closed?
I really do not want to have to order a new fusebox and pull this one apart and rewire, that just screams electrical gremlins for the life of the truck.
My old pipe to the heater core coming off the front cover was frozen in place, and long story short, the flange where the tube goes in with the o-ring broke.
I found part number 3C3Z-6608-B, which is the Motorcraft Front Cover kit and includes the LPOP and water pump, gaskets, seals, etc.
Another few hundred bucks and more time I don't have, but is that the right part? Is it possible to just get the cover? Considering the age of the motor, I'm OK with replacing all these parts, but money is getting a little thin at this point.
Just got a look at my 03' 6.0 turbo at Ford dealer. Truck still had boost but a real bad noise that was hard to describe. Pulled codes but no turbo code like the last turbo's. All the vanes were fine & no rust on the unison ring BUT the turbo shaft was broken. 3rd turbo went at 13,700 miles in July 2005 & now have 47,700 miles. I know I should drive it more but at 75 & having sold my boat it does't get driven to much.
I use Stanadyne with every tank full & drive it hard at least once every week to give the turo a workout. Use only Motorcraft oil every 3500 miles. Broken shaft on turbo would move about a 1/4 " on one end & a 1/2" on the other end. Ford service said they have seen shafts break before but said it was nothing I did to cause it.
Having a turbo shaft that broke? My 03 F250 turbo shaft was just replaced by the dealer, actually the whole turbo. This is the 4th turbo. Truck has 48000 miles on it. 1st 3 turbo's had sticking unison ring & vanes but this one had a broken shaft. Mechanic said unison ring & vanes were fine.
View 4 RepliesWhen I dropped my 2 frame rail batteries I noticed the clamp on the positive battery cable was broke. How to splice in a new clamp?
Pick and pull is an option. I would rather repair my OEM cable and be done.
Before taking to Ford or random trans shop just yet, looking for diagnosis recommendations (or an item or two to replace DIY). Torque converter bolts are broken or TC itself? Solenoid (but would expect a code)?
Issue: Doing 45MPH at the tail end of the 6hr drive, then engine simply revved and coasted to stop. No lurch, pop, noise felt like a manual transmission popped out of gear and into neutral. When the shift to R/D/L/4x4 hi/lo, can feel transmission engage. Engine revs and 'slips' are the best way to describe (no abnormal noise otherwise)I can feel it applying a very slight load (doesn't move, but can feel it try). No warnings/issues leading up to this in the 6yrs and 100k miles I have owned (has 174k miles now). No leaks/visible issues underneath.
Fluid is not burnt, the level is ok. Replaced (no flush) Mercon SP fluid at 125k when bulletproofing. No codes, including hard codes. Trans temp was 165 before/after, which is normal. All engine temps/values on Scanguage normal. SCT tune since bulletproof (though don't abuses it), set back to stock. Also disconnected pos/neg and touched both sets of cables together for several mins.
It appears the spring that keeps pressure on the handle has broken, now the console lid won't stay latched.
View 4 RepliesWhile diagnosing a low power and misfire condition on my 04.5, I was measuring coil resistance at the injector connectors. Found 1,3,7 had open circuits for one of the solenoids. 3 bad injector coils and no codes, no contribution codes... Why?
Anyway, pulled it apart to find the spool valves of 1 and 3 came out with the oil log the small bolts that hold them to the bodies had broken off. #7 only 1 bolt had broken off and the other was there but loose.
I got this truck with no history, and Had a variety of issues, like a bad fuse box that caused a no start, massive amounts of water in the fuel, and it had sat for 6 months untouched before I got it. I took care of the previous problems search for my previous posts if interested.
So what caused the spool valve to get blown off the bodies? I'm not sure if these have been rebuilt or ever removed, truck has 135 k. Could it be the water in the fuel that seized the intensifier piston?
Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
View 14 RepliesI broke my radiator drain plug got a replacement but how does the stock one come out? Is there a clip or something?
View 7 RepliesJust bought a 03, the seller showed me a exhaust leak. I found a bolt broken off, flush with the head. Looked at the passenger side when I got home, that side leaks too, and found one broken off bolt there too. Question, are these easy to do? As in, I have extracted broken bolts before, but they where on my V10 and I could just weld nuts to them and they came right out.
View 14 RepliesSo I received my International bellowed up pipes from Riffraff and I figure I will start soaking all of the bolts with some aerokroil before I get started on monday and I see the very last bolt head near the up pipe is gone. The bolt is there but the head is gone and you can definitely see soot buildup everywhere near it. I don't know if I should order a new manifold for the passenger side and new bolts, order a driver and passenger side manifold and new bolts, or just order one set of new bolts and try to get take the passenger side manifold off and replace the one broken bolt.
View 4 RepliesWell I just "did" the glow plugs on my recently acquired 99 7.3 and while 7 came out with no problem, one of them gave me more resistance when turning than expected and then "snap". Now here is the interesting part. What actually came out is the threaded top portion of the outer wall, while the rest of the outer wall and the electrode are still in the block. I have done a lot of searching and it seems that usually the electrode detaches from the outer casing and the entire outer casing comes out with only the electrode or part of the electrode stuck in the shaft (usually due to carbon buildup or swollen tip). In this case though, the outer wall of the plug sheared in two, which seems to imply that the outer wall itself is what is stuck in the shaft and not the electrode. The attached picture hopefully explains what I am trying to say.
I can easily latch on to the end of the electrode with some vice grips, but even if I managed to get that out, I would still have the outer wall of the plug in the hole. At the moment I just screwed the threaded part back in to keep the everything from blowing out so I could crank the truck. It cranked right up and seems to run fine. My inclination is to just leave it as is and hope that 7 good glow plugs will do the job, as I have some nightmares about making things worse in trying to make them better. Any chance of the electrode falling into the cylinder if this much of the outer case is still there? How to remove stuck electrodes, etc. but none on a stuck outer casing?