Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Tail Lights Go Out / Wire Harness In Front Left Wheel Well Rubbed
Oct 21, 2011
My fathers truck had the tail lights go out the other night so we checked the fuse and the bulbs both good. Took it to ford and they found that a wire harness in the front left wheel well had rubbed through and needed replacement. I went and checked mine and yup it was rubbing through the wire just not all the way yet. Might want to take a look. It is at the top of the well near the coil spring. I will get the camera out tomorrow in the daylight and take a picture of the location.
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So I went to the car wash this morning and when I pulled into the stall I heard a somewhat loud rattle coming from my front drivers side wheel. It sounded like there were a couple stones in the cap that covers the lug nuts. That wasn't the case. It did it in reverse also. Before I take it to the dealer Monday morning. Its a 2011 F-350 6.7 Lariat 4x4 w. 32,000 miles. I also have have a little whine coming from the rear when I take off from a standstill.
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Started about a month ago with a very infrequent squeaking coming from area of front left wheel. Has started getting more and more frequent to the point of being constant for about 10 minutes today, then just went away for the remaining 15 miles home. Front left hub was definitely warmer than the other one but not too hot to touch or anything. Start of a bearing issue or something to do with the auto locking hubs for the 4wd???
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2012 F350 Lariat - want to install cab lights. Can't locate correct wire to tap for power. I want to use the same power that powers the parking lights so these come on as they should. Is the best connect on the driver or passenger side, and what color wire is it? I've read yellow with green stripe (and found about 4 of them) and a brown wire I couldn't find.
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As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
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I'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
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So my tail lights and license plate lights are not working. The head lights work also my gauge cluster lights are not working. Which fuse I should check. Or what it might be?
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I'll preface by saying, my technical know how ends with swapping out lights. I'm sure this is an easy fix, but not sure where to look first. I recently got a pair of smoked out taillights and 3rd brake light and installed the tails..................easy job. Finally climbed up on the back to swap out the 3rd.............lights worked before I disconnected. Connected the new one, no go, so figured, I bet bulbs are out. Plugged original back in, no lights. Figuring I tripped a fuse somewhere.................any tips finding the right fuse?
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While pulling the bed and dropping the fuel tank to replace the sending unit, I noticed a green wire that had been cut extending out of the harness of wires that connect the rear lights. a bunch of cars were tagged in the neighbor hood and they probably cut that wire. it connects to a black and red wire in the Y at the harness. Where does it go to? Simple ground wire? No tow package on the truck either. Where it leads too?
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Well I'm am getting a low toned squeal out of the left front of my truck every time I pull away in the morning. I thought it was the caliper sticking as it wasn't releasing but I replaced the brakes and that and it still is happening. I guess I am going to looking at the hub and see if the hearing is bad. What do you all recommend for a hub replacement. (OEM, moog?) I looked it up on white bear is part # AC3Z-1104-B right?
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Any limited number of lights the factory trailer harness on the truck can tolerate? I'm looking to add some extra running lights on my trailer, also want to put a couple of lights on each running board on the truck, they will be tied in with the trailer harness since it is not monitored by the BCM. I did a search on this a few different ways and couldn't find anything.
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I've had a rattling/clunking sound from my front left wheel recently so I jacked up that corner. As soon as the tire elevated off the ground the bottom fell inward. I could easily push the top of the tire inward and pull the bottom of the tire outward. Does this lead to a bad hub or bad ball joint(s)?
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I have developed a sounds that sounds like metal on metal. Not a grinding but more of a "swish swish swish" light metal rubbing when the truck has been running a mile or two. I can barely hear it over the radio but its very noticeable when the window is down. It is not affected by the pressing the brakes and it gets louder and faster in direct portion to speed. It will occasionally leave and start right back up. I touched the front rim around the hub and it was hotter than I wanted to hold onto. It didn't burn but it was hot. It was 105 degrees that day. Here is what I have done.
I replaced that front hub in 2010 and probably have 50K miles on it. I did the 3-9 test and there was no noticeable play. I spun the hub and while it seems to spin ok it does seem a little dry.... I will pull it tomorrow and see what it looks like.
I pulled the calipers off and the brakes pads are at half way and there is no burnt smell. I spun the rotor and it seemed flat and straight. I do have a small tiny lip all the way around them on both sides but I figured that's normal with 265K. I pulled the pins and they were dry but they didn't seem to be sticking. I cleaned them up with the boots and am going to replace them when I get some brake grease tomorrow. I have not looked real hard at the caliper but I plan on pressing that with a C-Clamp tomorrow to check it. Since the rotors and pads looked OK, I assumed there was not a stuck caliper although haven't ruled it out. The axle behind the hub seem to spin freely before I removed all this stuff and the hubs are not locked.
I think I covered it all .. I also thought it could be a rock or stick but nothing came out of my caliper or rotor when I took them off ..
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Is there a difference between the two harness #'s here besides the first number:
3C3z9d930aa
4C3z9d930aa
Are they the same part? Is one for a different model truck than the other?
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Need to know the Ford part number for cab light wiring harness? I am wanting to install some LED cab lights but I do not currently have any so I will need the wiring harness.
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Is it possible to add the decent control if my truck didn't come with it? Is the harness already wired for it and the computer programmed for it or would I have to get it reprogrammed and get a new harness?
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Will a 05 injector harness work on a early 04?
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Have a 2010 Lariat crew cab and I just bought an upfitter switch set and relay harness. Found where to mount the relay block and have been able to get the switch panel installed in its home. For the life of me though I cannot find the plug in the main harnes under the dash to plug the relay harness into to power everything up. I've read several threads here and even found the drawings that indicate plug #C215 in a diagram for the 2011+ trucks. When I get access panel out and look underneath the dash where it should be....no spare or open plug. Is the plug location diferent in 2010 from the 2011?
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As it turns out my entire dash needs to come out to repair the HVAC so thinking while it's out I should add the diesel supplemental heater. What's involved with this? I need to replace the entire HVAC plenum so imagine the version with the supplemental heater can be bought instead. I know it's an 1800W electrical heater so my main question is the wiring harness on a regular truck setup for it or do I need to change the harness. And then I suspect the HVAC control module would need to be reprogrammed as well.
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Could a leaking passenger side glow plug harness cause a "hot no start?
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I'm really struggling to get this sucker off my 2014 6.7 F350
it says in the ford manual to lift the plastic tabs then pull off, I did that easily with 3 on each side, but the end plug on each side (the one closest to the windshield) does not seem to have a liftable tab (it looks different to the others as its at the end of the cable)
I've almost broken it but not quite, its over $300 for new harness, ouch
I do have the odd little hook tool they sell for this, it worked with the other 3 for sure, but I've spent ages on the 4th on each side and cannot budge either of them
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