Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: TPMS - Low Tire Pressure Light Won't Go Away?
Oct 19, 2011
I had the low tire pressure message and light come on back when i was visiting california, about 3 weeks ago..i checked the tire pressure, and a couple tires were maybe 5 psi low at the most.. i aired them back up to the right pressure (as stated on the door pillar sticker) and the damned light/message is still coming on.. how do I reset the TPMS? it says in the manual to just drive the truck 20mph+ for about 2 mins after getting the tire pressure correct, and the light/message should turn off. i have done that...
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2013 F350 SRW . Pressure is correct . Anything special you need to do to make the light go away ?
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I had new nitto snows put on my truck and low tire pressure light is on.....Checked tire pressure 65 front and 80 back.....Started truck and screen said tms pressure low.....Hit ok and drove around on and off for 2 days now and cant get the light to go out......Is there some way to get the light out or do I have to go to my dealer to have it reset???
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Why are my tire pressure sensors going off, I have 70#'s in the front and 62#s in the rear, which is more than enough air.
None of the tires have a leak in them, yet I keep getting the sensors to trigger, and why would it be so hard for the system to point out which tire is low??
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One of the few disappointments I had with my 2011 F350 was it lacked a display of individual tire pressures like both Dodge & GM have. I figured the idiot light would have to do. Recently I found that an inner dual tire was flat. It made a subtle squeal when braking or turning sharply, and a quick inspection showed I picked up a nail.
I never got a tire pressure alarm. I read my manual and it describes the system, but the writeup only indicates setting up four tires. Am I missing something? Have you guys got a working tire pressure monitor on your duallies?
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Well, at a little over 10k I have my first issue. My monitor displayed a Tire Pressure Monitor Fault. All tires are OK. Light won't go out. Guess it just earned a trip to the dealer.
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I do 98% of my driving unloaded and almost never tow. (Kinda weird for an F350 huh) I know that the truck recommends going with 65psi front and 80psi rear but the rear tires seem to not be wearing evenly across the tread pattern. The edges still have the little rubber stubs sticking out of them even after almost 3000 miles. Should I be running a lower tires pressure in the rear when empty or should I just let tire rotations take care of the uneven wear. If I should air down, what pressure would be recommended? The front tires are wearing normally at 65psi and they have more weight on them then the rear.
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A few weeks ago, the TPMS light (and the start-up warning) came on. I checked all the tire pressures and they were fine. I checked the spare tire, and sure enough, it was low and I fixed it. However, the TPMS warning still comes on every time I start the truck. It's not the flashing icon that indicates a problem with the system, it's just the steady "low tire" yellow light.
Not only is it annoying, but it won't indicate if there really is a low tire.
I know the old TPMS sensors only worked when the tire was rolling. If the modern sensors work that way, could it be the spare tire monitor? Is there anyway to know which sensor is sending the warning? I know the dealer is going to charge me an arm and a leg to look at this, so I'd like to know what's going on before I take it in.
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So tonight I'm driving on I-80 and all of a sudden I hear a thud, the TPMS light comes on and a warning of low tire pressure. I get out to take a lot and the rear left tire is practically flat. Changing the tire was pretty easy once I figured out where everything was in the tray.
So now I'm in the market for a replacement tire as there was a huge hole in tread. I have a about 3000 miles on the car. Would you get a replacement tire that is the same make/model as the rest of the tires, or would you simply get a cheaper replacement? Once I am ready to replace the rest of the tires, I'm not sure if I would replace them with the OEM make/model anyway. At the same time I'm not sure how long the OEM's will last.
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I just got st coils and apr stg1 software put in my car and love it. the question i have is the other day my tpms light came on, so when the guys installed my software (today) the tried to set the pressures and clear the light and it wont go off i want to take it to the dealer but I don't want them to give me a hard time about the mods.
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First cold day of the year today and naturally my TPMS light came on. Checked the pressures with my own gauge, all at 34 psi. Inflated them all to 38psi and the TPMS light is still on. Drove a little ways - still on. Checked pressures again - still 38psi. I had this happen once before in mid-winter two years ago and I can't remember what I had to do to reset the TPMS light. Mine isn't one of the ABS/ESP systems so I don't have a reset button - I need to do something with the VAGCOM but I don't recall what.
What's weird is that the TPMS threshold should be 7psi per wheel shouldn't it? And my light came on when it was only 4psi down. Is there somewhere I can check and find out what the ECU thinks the threshold is - again with my VAGCOM?
2010 Tiguan 4MO
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For the last couple months when not towing I take the front tires to 65 psi and the rears to 50 psi. It gives me the warning light which I click OK to every time I start it. This weekend I put everything back to 80 psi getting ready to tow and I can't get the warning light to go out anymore. I double checked my pressure to make sure everything was OK and it was. I will be taking it in unless someone knows a reset or something else to check out before I do.
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This is the third time my TMPS light and "Low Tire Pressure" message have popped on... I have checked all (4) tires and they are still exactly where I had them inflated several weeks back when I went through this the last time. What the threshold pressure is to set the TMPS warning off? I do run about 10psi lower than the door sticker because the door sticker pressure was too much and wearing the center of my rear tires... I just find it odd and frustrating that there are no problems for a period of time, and then all of a sudden I have to go through and over-inflate the tires for a few miles for the TPMS sensors to reset and clear the light, and then drop back down to where I need them for proper tire wear and it seems OK for weeks, and now here we go again
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I have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
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What is the tire pressure that will trigger the TPMS to activate the warning light on the dash? I had 31psi in my left front and got no warning?
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I have a '13 with 11,000 miles that the low fuel pressure light has come on a few times this winter. I took it to the dealer and told them what was going on. They only changed the fuel filters and didn't investigate any farther. The paper work also said it was the low fuel light and not the low fuel pressure light...
It was fine for a few days but then it happened again. The fuel pump would make some noise as well. The light comes on and the fuel pump makes noise when the temp is close to 0 and I accelerate to highway speeds. I am running winter blend fuel and running the Ford anti gel so the fuel shouldn't be gelling.
I stopped in at the dealer again about a week ago and the service manager wouldn't send anyone out to listen to the noise. He set up an appointment for today. Today it was -8 when I dropped it off at the dealer and the light didn't come on and there wasn't any noise. It is supposed to be cold overnight so they are going to keep it to see if they can get it to act up again. They called into Ford but no answer from them yet.
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Just replaced the hpop on my 04' 6.0. It had been down for about a year because my low pressure oil light would come on after warm up. Truck ran PERFECT, but dam light would come on. Eventually it wouldn't start by cranking, but would on a bump. (I have a 6spd.) still ran good. I would never run it over 5 minutes because i didn't want to damage anything. Finally getting around to fix it.
After a day of air testing, we tracked it down to hpop. (air coming out of turbo drain tube). I had a hunch that the dam bb on pump had spit out from similar stories on FTE, and thats what happened.
Replaced pump. (its an older style pump BTW, although i have a january 04 build and every ford parts guy said differently.) Put everything back together and now it runs terrible! We ran the truck for over 20 minutes and it didn't get better. I am afraid its gonna damage something to keep running it. My mechanic says 5 cylinders are misfiring and its something to do with the ficm or injector harness.... But, it ran perfect right before the hpop change???? Everything was double checked to make sure it wasn't something dumb.
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I know it's posted a few places but I have a reoccurring problem. Whenever my truck goes below 100 miles of remaining range the low pressure light comes on. Within 10 miles the reduced engine power comes on.
First time at 11k miles, at the dealership for 4 days, test fuel filter for crystallization, tested the diesel fuel, checked for leaks and then reset the codes and gave it back to me. Said it only popped the code for low bank 1 pressure.
Now 12,800 miles, driving home from work. 87 miles remain on range, pulled in a gas station and the low pressure light comes on. Threw 25 gallons in it and made it about 15 miles. Currently sitting in a Walgreens parking lot waiting for a tow truck with the low engine power light on. They will only tow it halfway to my house to a dealership since I am out of road side assistance range.
Circumstances right now, its 65 outside so it's not gelling like many other people. I can here the pump running and it spooled up real high when I tried to restart it but did not fire. Grabbed the code reader and it had 8 general codes all for low fuel bar pressure.
Pretty happy that I dropped almost 60k on a truck that hasn't even made it a year yet and not even 13k miles on it
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My new 2016 F350 6.7, every single time I start the truck, I get the low oil pressure light. Even after letting the truck idle. I'm concerned because I have no gauge inside to see what it's running and I also have what sounds like a can of rocks noise at idle and when I'm slowly accelerating I hear a clacking noise. Is this normal or should I be headed to the stealership? Truck only has 1100 miles. I've owned it 3 weeks and this is really making me wonder. I forgot to add that I'm in Louisiana and it's not often really cold. It was 84 today and I had the same thing. Even after I drove it and turned it off. Started it back up, same light.
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I just bought 4 new tires and since then the Tire Sensor light comes on after I drive about 20 minutes. The place I bought the tires from has used their tool twice now and it is still happening. Could they have done something to have made this happen because I had no problem before they changed the tires...
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My right rear tire picked up a screw this evening heading back toward Seattle from Chelan. I put the spare on and continued on my way. I noticed for the first few miles the traction control warning light was on. It went off and stayed off until I stopped for fuel and again it came on for a few miles. I'm suspecting this is due to a slight diameter difference between the 20" wheels with the Michelins and the 18" spare. I really hope this didn't stress the differential (3.55 ELD). As I understand it, unless locked the ELD is open all the time..... I would assume Ford wouldn't equip the truck with an incompatibly sized spare......
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