Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Sudden 6 Mpg Rise?
Jun 7, 2012
Last week I took my first long drive since taking in my truck for its 24000km service. Also first real drive on my new toyo m/t 275/70/18 ( same size as stock michelins )
About 1 hour into the drive, My exhaust regened, then slightly after I hit ( not held ) the ok button and it reset my trip. Which was strange as you need to hold it down to reset. But the bar just kept going. Then suddenly I went from 12.8 l /100 to 19 l / 100. Or converted it about 18-19 mpg to 14. After stopping and resetting the truck, it resumed 12.8 at 110 kmph.
Then today coming back on a 4-hour drive doing anywhere from 100 - 130 kmph ( 60 - 80 mph ) I could not get it to move off 13.8 l / 100 km. more then + or - .3
Is a 6 mpg difference normal for adding mudders? Or is my truck glitching or plugged somewhere.
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So at low idle my fan is running like 230rpm according to torque pro. I think this is causimg my ect to rise when at idle. It's usually 192-194* but if I'm idling in traffic or just In general (after it's been running a while) it climbs to 195.8, 197, 199.2, 201, 203, 204.8. Haven't seen it get higher than the 204. Now once I get moving again it will lower back down. I can see where I have flow into the degas not to mention the water pump is new. Could my low fan speed be my issue? I believe it should be more around 500rpm at low idle.
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I have a 2007 6.0 that this has happened to twice now. It's fine around town but I never hear the can come on. Friday when on the interstate my my temp gauge started to rise past normal operating temperature before fan came on. Is this normal? After the fan came on it stayed at normal temp for the rest of trip....
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I have a 2004 F250 6.0 DuperDuty with about 170,000 miles on it, so far no major break-downs, just a starter and a blinker relay, but now I have a problem.
When I start now, the truck starts fine and it sounds fine, but it has almost no power even if I floor the gas peddle, there is a delay of like 2-3 seconds and then responds slowly, like some tractor. Eventually it starts to move slowly, and after it warms up (after a few minutes), the gas peddle responds more normal.
Also - at about 45mpg, at lower RPMs about 1250, the engine starts to shake (weird), it doesn't do it at idle about 850 RPM, or when I get it up to about 1800RPM+, but at about that 1250 RPM it does do it, luckily I driver locally for a few miles.
What could this be ? What exactly happens when I press on the gas peddle, what systems are involved and in which order?
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I've got a 2004 F250, 6.0, with 150k miles. I was pulling a motorcycle trailer uphill in the mountains when suddenly I couldn't go over 10 to 15 mph. All the gauges read good but it just couldn't get any power.
Got to the top and checked over everything. Didn't see any issues. Drove it home (200 miles) the next day. It drove okay on highway but it felt like the turbo wasn't coming on. Coolant was low and EGR was gunked up but only slightly wet. From what I read, it sounds like EGR cooler is failing but would that cause the turbo not to come on or feel like that loss of power? Reading another thread, I thought it might be the fuel pickup but I dropped the tank and the sending unit looked very good.
I'm ready to throw on a bulletproof egr cooler, oil cooler and rebuild the turbo if necessary but hate to get to the end and find out none of that worked.
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My 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
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Ok I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
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Okay, so i was driving down the road. Turned around and all of sudden I have no power steering... The fluid is good and I actually just replaced this ps pump 2 months ago.. Also when I hit the brakes they kinda feel weird too like there not working fully or something... Should I just start tearing this ps pump off?
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Started with lots of black smoke all of a sudden. Not under any significant load at that time. Reached destination (barely) and started the search. Have taken off blue connectors on CAC passenger side. Top is marginal but see no holes. Pulled the MAP hose and see nothing unusual. Have not checked the driver side CAC or the BPV sensor. Have a ScanII device that shows no codes. Got my other scanner and it too shows no codes.
Had it towed home over 100 miles 'cause now it just barely runs. Idles fine but have a engine noise change (deep and hollow) every once and a while at idle. EGR leak? Doesn't blow black smoke anymore. More of a white/blue. Exhaust smells odd. Absolutely no turbo activity. When shutting hear no whine down of the turbo. No boost evident on the dash or on the scan II. I am at a loss at this point. Will check fittings again.
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Nothing but trouble lately with this thing. All the big stuff is done and just switched to Synthetic oil too. Now I have these intermittent RPM drops of about 200 - 400 RPM. Seems worse under load.
I've been advised to check the ICP pigtail which I can't do without taking it apart. I did program the ICP volts into the SGII. See the video.
Power stroke video - YouTube
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My truck is an 03 and I changed number 5 injector and number 4 injector, checked my ficm everything is good there now I have a contribution balance code for injector 4 now injector 5 and an EGR code some guys on hear before said it could be a sensor but today I talked to my mail man who also owns a 6.0 and he sounds pretty knowledgeable he says it's possible that it could be that the computer is not reading out right and those cylinders are getting to much fuel for an instant that's what's causing the sudden puffs of black smoke. My torque pro is giving me all these codes and I'm starting to think that there is something underlying....
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I have not been on here for a while my X has never had any problems 140,000+ miles. yesterday went out side to start her and let it warm up went back inside to make coffee came out 10 minutes later and found a server oil leak pouring out under the truck. Immediately turned her off popped the hood and found oil all over the back top of the motor? before I start tearing into it, need to know where to start. I've read IPC sensor, CAC hose, anything else to look for?
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I have a 04 F250 6.0 and change transmission and transfer case. Now all of a sudden the rear passenger tire is locking up but the rear driver side still moves. I've dropped the carrier and the ring and pinion looks great and so does the spider gears ... Need on whole new rear....
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So my buddy was driving my truck and boat through Amarillo and suddeny had a buck/surge accompanied with black smoke. I left my torque app with him. Its throwing codes: P2287,2285, and P????(fault log got erased and I'm going from memory) concerning #8 cyl. I got there today and we noticed coolant leak on left side. Its small and I cant tell the source, but it is wetting the exhaust manifold on left side. Also now its blowing white, black, grey smoke. At idle its more white/ grey. Under load it mixes a little blck in. I only had time to check the ICP on torque and at idle its bouncing from 0.9 to 1.1. Unplugged ICP ran about the same. Still started and idled fine with white smoke. No oil in ICP or connector.
So I'm no expert but I think ive got a bad icp and something else going on. I didn't pull the egr valve and look so no idea on the cooler ,yup syill have the cooler. Degas has a small amount of white residue directly under the cap but no puking. Degas is just below the max line (on the sticker).
One other note only code originally was the 2287 last night. Now this am there was the other codes ref'd above.
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2004 F250 6.0 L. New head gaskets, ARP studs, new oil cooler, new water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, 4" exhaust, EGR delete, new coolant bottle, radiator and cooling system flush, new injector seals and oil rail plugs all done at 98,000 miles. The truck is at 119,000 now and has been doing great since all the work. I have been frequently hauling very heavy loads and pulling cars on trailers and no problems. EOT has been staying about 7 degrees above ECT except on hill climbs. No coolant loss at all. Today suddenly while driving on the freeway (unloaded) the temps spiked. I pulled over when the ECT hit 240. Once cooled down I checked coolant level, hoses etc and since all was fine I took off again. Overheated again after about 5 miles. My understanding was that the Ford thermostat fails open if it fails. Do I have that wrong? Do I have a stuck thermostat? Some other problem?
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I am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
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2000 7.3 automatic suddenly went out of gear going about 30 mph wont go back into any gear, linkage checks fine, no slippage before problem, fluid seems normal good level not burnt no metal.
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I've read weeks worth of post to try and fix my late 99.5. First, I'll give syptoms then what has been changed/worked on. While driving at low rpm truck will shut off. As if the key was completely turned off. I am able to throw it in neutral and start back up. Not very safe.
Most the time when I feel the power/electrical loss I can hit the gas pedal fast and most the time "catch it" before it will completely shuts down. Also, I feel a very small "hiccup" at higher speeds. Not often tho.
Changed. Cps. Twice. First aftermarket, second ford.
Changed ICP sensor.
Had dp tuner installed. Right after tuner install abs sensor went out. Like the same day.
I have edge insight for all gauges.
I'm lost.. if these symptoms ring a bell for any of you that would be fantastic. I'm original owner...
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
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It only happens on a very Rare occasion.
When Cold, and when I start out as I open the throttle, it suddenly sounds like there is not a piece of quieting stuff on the engine. I mean its like I can hear right into the engine itself.
I back off, It goes away then I dont hear it again for another Month or two.
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