Coming home from a trip with my truck pulling the 5th wheel, we heard noises that seemed to be coming from the front hubs that sounded like stones in the hub caps. Once we got home I pulled the front lug covers to see if any came loose and were rattling around inside, but all were torgued properly. Everything drove strait and tight with no noticeable problems, should I be concerned....
View 8 RepliesThe truck always made a few strange noises after shutdown, but this is new and annoying.
Here's the scenario: Truck is warm and no CEL. A few seconds after shutdown, I hear all the normal(?) noises and then a noise that sounds like a vacume pump running starts and continues for about 20 to 30 seconds. Cycling the key, but not starting the motor will cause the noise to happen again and again on each key on/off cycle.
The noise seems to be coming from the top front of the motor. Could this be fuel pressure bleeding off? Is there a check valve that is maybe not doing it's job??
I've been told that manually unlocking the front hubs on my '15 F350 dually, might just improve milage. Any concerns about the axle lubrication from being unlocked for extended periods of time? I rarely need the 4WD.
View 9 RepliesOne of the many things that impresses me about the 6.7 is how well it lugs...... it'll run right down to near 1,000 rpm in 6th gear and stay there till it absolutely has to shift. Like a diesel should. Well, recently, and now more frequently my truck is making some strange noises when it lugs down. It'll mainly do it if I'm towing light, like my flat trailer empty, or maybe if I have a decent load in the bed. But occasionally it'll do it empty. As soon as it lugs down low to 1,000-1,200 and pulls there for a few seconds you'll hear a couple squeaks, then a kinda chugchugchugchug noise. It immediately quits if you let off or make it shift down. It sounds like a turbo-related noise, but I don't really know. Truck only has 9k miles on it. I just know this is one of those things I'll take it back to the dealer and they'll give me the ol "we can't duplicate the problem here." What it could be?
View 8 RepliesWhen I park over night while in 4x4, the next morning my hubs are disengaged and I have to manually lock them. There is an apparent slow/slight leak in the vacuum system. What would be the usual suspect, so I can start at that point?
View 3 RepliesI got new auto-locking hubs. The updated ones. As I proceeded to replace them, I pulled out old ones and when driver side came out, there was like 1/2 ounce of water that flowed out from where the auto-locking hub would sit. Strange. I had changed out lines, vacuum pump, vacuum solenoid and reservoir. All new and dry. I blasted both sides down with brake cleaner to clean off old grease, let dry and installed new auto hubs. So far so good. Will test the ESOF feature another time. I was wondering where this water would come from? Other side of wheel hubs are dry.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 f250 and I am unable to rotate the hubs from automatic. I have removed them and while I had them apart, I was still unable to rotate the selector. It wouldn't turn even with a crescent wrench putting pressure on it. I repacked them with grease and reinstalled and they still work when in 4 wheel drive. I am just concerned that when the vacuum does go out, I will not get the hubs to manually lock in.
View 10 RepliesNew to the 4x4 6.0 just bought an 06' King Ranch 130K miles. My other truck is a 95' 7.3 non 4x4 now for sale. So the new to me 06' will not lock the hubs in Auto mode but will in Manual. I have good vacuum down to each wheel hub which is where my question is.
The vac port at either wheel I get 20-30hg however I believe this is only because something is plugged. If I pump up my vac tester to ~25hg right at the wheel port the needle doesn't move, holds vacuum, but does not Auto lock the hub. So I pulled out the Manual/Auto hub by removing the 3 torque screws thinking my vacuum should then go to 0 but it doesn't it stays right at ~25hg.
Before I bought the truck there was some work done to the front end. New ball-joints, Rt tie-rod and perhaps a few other things I haven't ID yet. Could my problem above be an axle seal or something else perhaps installed incorrectly causing the small vac hole going down inside the hub to be covered up or maybe plugged somehow? I believe to replace the ball joints the axle, hub and other parts have to be removed, correct?
I was getting a growl/grinding noise from my front hubs (driver's side I think) when I do a slight right turn like going around a curve, not turning around a corner. Just started happening the last week after returning from a 4th of July roadtrip. First thought was wheel bearings going out and started reading up on the forum here to see what was needed. Last night, I started getting a continuous growl when I was 5 miles from the house so just pulled up and parked it. I'm assuming (without pulling anything apart), it's the bearing assembly and I can get the Timken version at Autozone locally.
The problem is I generally do my heavy maintenance at our family shop in San Antonio but I live in Austin so will need to do this in my driveway. I have all the basic tools, just need to know how involved it is to do in a driveway instead of a shop. Thoughts?
My 2011 6.7 has a strange tick when I accelerate once I speed up it goes away it happens in drive or reverse I only have 29000 on the truck it will tick one to three times and then stops I had new rear u joints put on and is still ticking and is driving me crazy u can only hear it with windows down ....
View 14 RepliesI've had good running on the truck but lately in the cold the idle has a weird skip to it like it's missing on a cyl. It will start fine, and run fine for about 30 seconds. Then it will start to mis. When giving pedal it goes away and it's driveable but it doesn't sound right. After a bit of running it's fine for the duration while warm. My monitors are I think all good, 48.5v, icp about 1250 psi. Is this the famed "injector stiction"?
View 5 RepliesJust notice this in the manual page 302 The vehicle should not be driven in 4x4 high or low with the lock hubs set to auto as this condition may damage driveline system components.
Page 303 It then goes on to say !!
Automatic operation of the hub locks is recommended and will increase fuel economy.
when using 4x4 once in awhile LOCK or AUTO
I have noticed my truck makes a front end noise when I make turns, like from a main road to a side street. What seems to cause it is if there is a little dip or bump during the turn. The noise it makes sounds almost like a tire rubbing a splash guard or something. It comes from the drivers side. It he truck is stock with stock tires and wheels and has 4300 mi on it. I was maybe going to take it to the dealer...
View 14 RepliesI recently replaced the front wheel hub and upper and lower ball joints on the the driver side of my 2004 f250 CC SB 6.0 fx4. Now when I put into 4 wheel drive I get a grinding noise that sounds like a worn out break pad from that side only. It didn't do it before and it only happens in 4x4. I have replaced the wheel hubs before and it was fine. Also The needle bearing race on the axle is good.
View 4 RepliesRecently purchased a 2005 F250 6.0. I noticed that sometimes when I brake it feels strange...like ABS activating in rear or something. Usually at 15-30mph when braking right after accelerating. Its a bit difficult to explain. I'm planning on getting a break inspection soon.
View 3 Replies06 6.0L 205k
EGR, cat, and muffler delete
IPR replaced roughly 10k miles ago
New oil cooler roughly 15k ago
Replaced turbo Y up pipe 15k ago
Replaced radiator, idler pulley, and serp belt roughly 50k ago
I've got a strange squeal sound coming from under the hood only when truck is cold? It sounds like a bearing and after it gets heated up the sound stops. I talked with a guy thats a cummins guy and he said he had a similar issue and he had to replace the bearing in the turbo? Also when truck is warm it will still do it, like for instance, if I run in a store and truck idles for 5-10 mins it will do it only if I romp on it for a short while like 2-3 mins then again goes away. And if I'm idling or in neutral, hot/cold, it does not do it, it seems to be only under a load. Pull a 26 foot boat no problems.
I have a code for iat sensor 1 circuit high. It's the only code I can pull. I replaced the sensor in the manifold and still no change. The truck revs up when started but kinda finds its idle rpm after a second and the idle fluctuates some when the truck is warmed up too. I have a snap on solus and all parameters seem to be good. Icp sensor is also new thinking it might be the cause. Other than that the truck runs perfect and doesn't miss a beat.
View 14 RepliesWhat could be making the strange pumping sound coming from under my hood after I shut off the truck?? It sounds like a small compressor or pump running.
View 4 RepliesI have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?
So with the hurricane coming to my house I did the balljoints on my drivers side yesterday to prepare to evacuate today. Everything went smooth with no problems. Now fast forward to the drive to Orlando, I hit a bump going 65 and my front right side (ball joint replacement side) starts humming. I pull over and it stops, get out see nothing obviously wrong and start back on my way with no noise to speak of. It happened again and again I just slowed to almost a stop and it went away. Yesterday after the repair I took it on a trip through some crappy roads, the freeway, and all that to ensure she was safe with no problems. Maybe it is the bearing failing all of a sudden (it looked fine when I took it off). I have had a vibration at 55 consistently i think is the tires now that I replaced the ball joints (was waiting to have the tire shop check balance until after the repair) maybe that could be it?
View 3 RepliesOk here goes. I recently replaced the front wheel hub and upper and lower ball joints on the the driver side of my 2004 f250 CC SB 6.0 fx4. Now when I put into 4 wheel drive I get a grinding noise that sounds like a worn out break pad from that side only. It didn't do it before and it only happens in 4x4. I have replaced the wheel hubs before and it was fine. Also The needle bearing race on the axle is good.
View 2 Replies