Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Stock Subwoofer Not Working
Nov 17, 2013
One thing I noticed with my truck was that the sound was really poor (truck is fitted with "premium sound") - I followed the common thread and replaced all 4 speakers with the Infinity 6829CF's, when doing it, it definitely improved the mid and high range clarity, but in the lower end there was nothing.
I then discovered no movement in the sub... I am a little electrically challenged, and wondered if you have some pointers (i.e. does it have its own fuse/relay to check)
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Why my subwoofer won't work? Dealer is stumped. Dealer changed out the speaker and amp. They have been waiting on the Ford Hot line for over a week to get a direction and nothing yet. The speaker does move ever so slightly on highest level.
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Are there any guides out there on how to remove the stock subwoofer? I have been searching numerous places and coming up fairly blank on how to remove it. So far I have found that I need to remove the seatbelt bolt, but looking in the trunk it appears I need to remove the piece of trim that runs along the trunk lid floor and both the B and C pillar in order to remove the trim that goes over the subwoofer.
Does the trim clip into place on the trunk lip, pillars and over the sub? Looking for any more information on getting to the stock sub? I have found a half dozen threads of people swapping them out, but no one posted how they got to the subwoofer in the first place.
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Looking for if it would be okay to tune my 6.0 with the SCT SF3 tuner with the stock exhaust, I measured it and the stock exhaust is 3 and 5/8 inches...
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I want to get rid of the stock exhaust and run a 4' or 5' exhaust all the way back. Will I still need to use DEF? Completely remove the whole system.
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Just wondering, what the max boost rating on a stock turbo, stock engine in a 2011 is. I know the gauge goes up to 40 PSI, but I don't think I've ever seen my go past 20.
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I have a bit of a quandary with my 6.0 and I'm wondering how it compares to others. If you have a hot or race tune (example: super panty dropper) on your 6.0 with stock injectors, what is the peak high pressure oil that you see at full throttle?
Need to know high pressure oil PSI @ full throttle, year (or better yet which style hpop you have if you know), if your ecu tune is a "race" tune, and if you have any FICM tuning.
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Stock rear suspension F250s. Can measure from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame? My truck has just lift springs with no blocks and I want to know what size lift they are. I'm also considering switching back to stock springs because the lift springs ride like crap.
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Truck has an SCT tune from Innovative Diesel.
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What harnesses or adapters do I need to get my some aftermarket speakers plus my aftermarket subwoofer hooked up. I have a 4 channel for the speakers and a mono for the subwoofer.
Trying to figure out whether to go this route or buy the wiring harnesses and dash kit needed for my old pioneer d3 double din HU and hooking up RCA's that way.
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It blows, but only lukewarm..... feels like it's out of or low on freon, but I won't know until tomorrow. Searched the forum but I appear to to be the first with this issue? I just hope it's covered under warranty, whatever it is.
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Defrost not working. Looking for the vacuum pump so I can troubleshoot it. Where to find it in the engine bay and trouble shooting it other than listening to whether it's on or not when engaging 4x4?
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I can't seem to get my fog lights to work. i checked am both bulbs are good. I did pull out the headlight switch. I checked fuse 43 an its good. I popped dash out an checked wires to headlight switch an found the wire for the fog lights, yellow wire on my 05.
Its getting power when I pull the headlight switch out to turn on fog lights. Pulled plugs of of fog lights an getting no power to them.
They use to work. i put in some HID headlights an they still worked. then i put some led's in my instrument cluster an sometimes they would work an sometimes not. now they wont come on at all.
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I went on a 4oo mile trip the other day and kiddos were in the back playing games and powered up- Next thing I know the AC seems to not be working. It was pretty cool outside so I tested it a little and I could not feel any cool air in the seats and teh vents were not very cold.
Clutch seems to be engaged and not cycling.
I am taking back to them Wednesday.
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My truck does mostly pavement duty so no telling how long ago 4WD quit working but I needed it the other day and it's now a no-go. It's the '06 truck in my sig and it has ESOF.
When I flip the switch (4hi or 4low acts the same) my A/C continues to come out of the dash vents, it doesn't change. With KOEO I can hear a whirr-click from under the truck when switching 4wd on and off, I get noise both ways. 4x4 light on the dash seem to work correctly.
Broke out FORScan and got the following info:
===GEM DTC P1832===
Code: P1832 - Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
Module: Generic Electronic Module
Diagnostic Trouble Code details
Transmission Transfer Case 4WD Solenoid circuit failure
===END GEM DTC P1832===
[Code] ....
Any tips to quickly nail it down between the switch, GEM, wiring or solenoid? Looks like the whole thing is failing. I've climbed under the truck and all the wiring appears undisturbed. No recent work under there. In FORScan, these DTC's were generated in a user initiated test and I didn't pick up the instruction to re-run the test in 4x2 mode until I posted just now.
Under the hood everything seems to be routed correctly and connected. Vacuum pump runs a short while on start up like always has. I can lock hubs manually and they don't seem to be binding hard but they are a little stiff, haven't done that before so I don't know how hard it should be to turn them. I have a MiteVac but haven't tried using it to try and lock the hubs. Not sure any of that matters (yet) with the DTC's listed above.
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Do the gauge cluster out of one super Duty will work in another truck, just plug and play? I have a 2015 550 that the fuel gauge has quit, which is causing the truck to go into limp mode because it will not allow a regen on the DPF. This is a business truck and i need it to be rolling. There appears to be a national back order on gauge clusters from Ford. I have another truck in the fleet that I could do without so I was wondering if I could just swap the clusters would it work?
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Noticed a problem on the way to work my passenger headlight doesn't work when they are on automatic but do work when I turn them on manually with the switch
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I currently own a 2006 F550 4x4 pick-up. I just finished changing the oil and my oil pressure gauge is not working....
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My dads truck is an 04 and we have went through this before. We replaced the whole head light switch and they still didnt work. All the sudden one day they started working again. They have worked recently until now. Same condition as before, the fog lights work, parking lights work and when you pull the lever back for high beams they come on as well but no headlights. Looking for a diagram to track this down.
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Was driving today and noticed that at idle my heated air went away. Coolant temp at this point was 185f. Once back to driving, the heat returned. The variant in temperature seems to be related directly to engine speed. What is wrong?
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My Edge is reading "PO528: Fan Speed Sensor Circ No Signal". When I'm pulling a large 5th wheel up a 4% hill by the time I hit the top (if I don't slow down)warning beeps are gong off and my ECT is at 240. I can hear the fan come in at 215 and it stays in all the way up in temperature.
All the posts say c/o the fan clutch. While that may fix the fault signal, would it do anything for the temp situation. If the fan is locked in it seems like a lot of money just to clear the fault. Or......is the fan still slipping but sounding like it's working? This my be not related but I did notice that as the temp rises the AC starts not working. By the time I reach the top of the hill it is blowing hot. As we go down the other side and ECT comes down, it starts cooling.
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