I am looking for a source for switched power under the dash. I am going to wire up power to my TST507 TPMS but I would like to have switched power. I have a bundle of wires all capped off under there but no idea if any are switched power. I thought I would ask before trying to probe each and every one.
View 7 RepliesMy wife has a 2009 VW Passat 2.0T and I gave her a Garmin for Christmas. I'd like to wire it directly into a switched 12v power source. I know this is a common question on car forums but my searches for "12v switched power source," "12v," and "switched power" in the Passat B6 forum didn't turn up anything of use. Where I can find a good cord to tap into? I'll be using a vampire clip but am not opposed to using a fuse tap if someone knows of an open switched fuse spot.
View 2 RepliesI would like my two 12V power plugs to be switched with the key instead of on all the time. Is there any easy way to do this?
View 14 RepliesI used my 4x4 high for the first time. I switched it on at about 40mph on an icy road and heard a quick grind as it engaged. After it was active I noticed that I the truck sounded different. Not bad necessarily but I could definitely hear that the front drive shaft was engaged as I drove along. Is this normal? In my last Ram, the truck didn't sound any different as it operated in 4x4.
View 14 RepliesI'm rocking a 2005 Ford Excursion with the 6.0L PSD. When the Ignition key is switched ON prior to starting, the injectors cycle in a priming sequence.
What I need to know from owners here, is how does that sequence sound to you? Does it start slow and then increase in speed until it's complete, sounding like a rise in pitch? Or does it just make the same sound the whole way through?
Trying to debug a random no-start and I'm trying different theories. Current suspect is the FICM, despite the OBDII always reporting 47V - 48V. For me, the priming sequence starts slow and then runs faster until it's complete. Trying to figure out if it should sound the same the whole way through.
Ive changed all relays underhood cause i could not find info on which relay is which, checked all fuses under dash. Checked to make sure up stream on 4x4 fuse position has power. And i checked for power at 2 wire on transcase no power at 2 wire, i am also finding no power at back of dashswitch.. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows complete esof schematic
View 14 RepliesStopped at the store, came out, started truck, ran for two seconds, shut off, hasn't run since,had no codes,or any other issues. I have checked all the fuses,breakers,main power supply off of passenger battery, still nothing. I have head and taillights, power points on dash, dome lights, chime for headlights. 79674 miles.
View 6 RepliesGot a Decreased Power message across the dash info center today and was limited to only around 5lbs boost. I stopped and pulled the codes and here is what I found:
P054E - Fuel Quantity lower than expected
P1249
P1247
P0471 - Exhaust pressure sensor range/performance
P02D7 - Injector learning @ max
P0402 - EGR flow excessive detected
I dumped the trailer and limped home to change the fuel filters. I could only go 35mph on the flats and 10mph on any kind of up hill slope. I switched out the filters, purged the air, fired her up and cleared the codes, all seemed well. I backed out and went for a test lap around the neighborhood, as soon as I turned the corner and rolled on the throttle and reached 35 the message came back and the codes returned. I will be towing it in to the dealer tomorrow for diagnostics.
2015 F350 6.7L, 43,000miles
My family and I were driving into West Virginia this morning when the reduced engine power message came up on the dash and the truck died. I coasted off to the side of the road as best I could and got out. Immediately I smell diesel fuel. I look under the truck and there is fuel all over the passengers side frame and when I keyed it back up fuel started spraying down by the right front wheel.
Pulled the fender liner back and saw a small rubber hose that looks like it came off of a tee fitting down by the egr components. I tried to get it back on but wasn't able to get it seated 100% and when I tried to restart it blew off again. Truck is completely stock and ran perfect right up until it died.
I'm wiring a backup camera and I need to energize a wire with +12v source that turns on when the truck is placed into reverse.
If I can connect the wire to 12v which automatically energizes when the truck is shifted into reverse, the backup camera will turn on automatically.
Surely I could pull the signal from the reverse lights, but I'd like to find something in the fuse panel because that is where the wire terminates and I'd rather not extend it all the way to the reverse lights on the back of the truck.
Where's a +12v source in the fuse box area under dash that energizes when the truck is put into reverse?
Simple question for the group as I learn about my new B.O.A.T 6.0 diesel.
What is that blue light left of the steering column yet on the dash?
I finally have the OBD II reader and running the Dash command on an iPhone 5s. I have downloaded the Ford Super duty 6.7 Skin for the dashboard. It seams to be reading most information but It will not give me the exhaust gas temperature. Not only that, I am still trying to set up some gauges with difficulty. Is there something else I should be doing or setting for this reading. Or is there a different Apple app that I should be using?
View 14 RepliesI found out by accident that my vacuum pump is now running all the time. It's not the gray line to the heater valve and it's not the vacuum canister as I already checked the easy stuff. I need some direction where to start looking under the dash as I have never been under that part of my truck. Any common issues or where to look?
More information: The pump only runs all the time when the HVAC control is set to OFF or MAX AC.
2004 f350. Trucks starts, runs, normal. But just noticed the gauges are not moving. Speedo stuck at 50, tach is at idle. Lights up just fine.
Have a code for the fuel sender, had that issue for awhile now, but also have u1262.
Our 2011 SD 6.7. 190,000 km Came home after a week off and started the truck up via the command start, when I got in it the little red battery icon was lit up on the dash. Well this is my 3rd SD and in the past I always ended up needing an alternator when that light came on. So off to the dealer and was about to replace it, the service rep. stated the alt. was ok and there was something else wrong and it was turning the light on.
So you think here goes my next weeks pay looking for the Needle in a hay stack. Guys the Tech who is a great guy found a 18 guage red wire that runs from the pass. side battery under and infront of the motor not in any real wire harness and it goes to the alt. had some corrosion forming in under the insulation causing some resistance, and it was telling the system to turn the dash light on.
The tech replaced the bad wire and all is good now. Also you can test the out put of the Alt. and it will show around 15 volts with the truck running even with the red icon on, so you will know it's the bad wire and not an Alt.
I painted the senser on the dash black on the inside so the headlights stay on all the time. My question is the dash lights don't stay on all the time, I assumed they would with the headlights on and senser cover painted, drives me nuts with the dash lights coming on and off. How to make dash lights stay on.
View 14 RepliesMy buddy's '05 will not blow out of the dash vents, you can make the a/c blow out the defrost or the floor but no dash. Vacuum pump is working great, rarely ever kicks on and doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere in the system that I can tell yet. Pulling a vacuum on the red line will make it start blowing out the vents so the door is functioning.
I thought maybe I had narrowed it down to the ATC solenoid and manifold (Ford part #5c3z-19d611-aa) not working properly but found that the F-150 guys having problems with the o-rings on the back of the control head. Seems they replace the 4 o-rings and all is well, cheap easy fix. Are the units on the diesel set up that way too?
A quick search for EATC problems on the diesels didn't bring up much, seems they don't tend to fail. He's wanting to sell it and asked if I could try and fix the problem. It's been about a year since I last looked at it, so my recollection might be a bit foggy.
I have a 2006 Super Duty 6.0L, and I'm what are the two temperature gauges on the right side of the dash are? I'm sure one is engine temp, but what is the other one? Also, which gauge is which (in terms of top/bottom)?
View 11 RepliesRecently, we took a trip pulling our 5th wheel, even after suspecting another stuck unison ring, sticking turbo issue. When Climbing a gradual grade, we had the "wrench" light come on the dash. The truck seemed to go into the "limp" mode. I pulled over, let the turbo cool down for a minute, and then shut off the engine.
I let it sit for a minute, knowing we were on the freeway shoulder, restarted it without clearing any codes, and it started up without the wrench lit. No limp mode and continued home. I did this twice throughout the trip. I then tried to pull and OBD codes and found none such as a P0299. Seems like there should have been a code saved to evaluate the issue.
I recently installed an egr delete and ever since, my vents have been stuck to the upper dash no matter which setting I put on. The vent will push the air conditioning, regular air and heat all the same. I have checked the fuses and they are all good.
View 5 RepliesI switched to red ELC back in September , bought a billet thermostat housing , and did the "dual alternator " upper hose. now i seem to be getting small leaks around my hose connections and thermostat housing. I don't have any pics yet but I'll get some. It looks like it barley leaked. Then dried up
I re tightened everything again but no difference. My coolant level hasn't dropped or Anything that's why I haven't been too concerned. Here's when it first started happening