Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Sounds Like Rear End Binding When Backing Up To The Right
Jan 15, 2016
I have a 2015 F350 6.7 DRW King Ranch with approx 12800 miles on it and have recently developed driveline noise which sounds like the rear axle is binding when backing up to the right. The truck has the 3.73 limited slip differential. Not sure what could be causing this. The front hubs are in "Auto" and the truck is not in 4-wheel drive. I don't notice the noise when moving forward, only when backing up to the right or left. Never noticed the noise when backing in a straight line. For whatever reason, when backing up to the left, the binding noise is not as prominent as when backing up to the right. Binding noise is most noticeable when front wheels are turned hard to the right.
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I only get the fault when backing up. Driving forward it's never a problem. The truck is a 2015 F250. We are pulling a 33' travel trailer. Both are new. I was not sure if the fault when backing was something that happens or if it might be indicative of a problem. The manual says it's not an indicator of a problem. Rather, there might be an issue. Again, it works fine when traveling in a forward motion.
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I have had literally no issues with my 2004 F250 Super Duty. Went out and started the truck like every other time for the past 13 years. Started backing out of the driveway and burped the throttle and it just quit??
I put back into park and it rolled over for about a minute and finally caught. When i put it back into gear i had zero throttle response. I have a NOx sensor fault code and and EGR fault code. I replaced the FICM 2 years ago.
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I have an 02 F150 super cab Fx4 with a 5.4 engine. Earlier this week my wife pulled up to a stop light and the truck began to buck and jerk while moving. She pulled over and we had it towed back to the house. I pulled into the garage and something felt off, my first thought was rear diff clutches(the truck has 92k). I backed it straight out of the garage the next morning and it was popping and binding while backing up, it would move a little then act like it was up against a curb, then hit the gas, it would pop and move a little more. I popped the rear cover off the diff and the fluid was clean, and I did not see any metal shavings in it. Next I removed the rear brake disc to check if the parking brake shoes grenaded, they are fine.
Right now I have the rear end on jackstands, I put the tranny in neutral and turned the driveshaft by hand in front of the diff. It will turn in one direction and then not go back the other way. Not to sound ignorant, but is that normal operation of the traction lock diff? Next thing, while turning the driveshaft by hand, there is a clicking noise coming from the transfer case area. I slid underneath and could hear it coming from the case. Is this noise normal? I have no other truck around here to compare too. I have used the search function here at the forum, I am just not finding my particular issue. The truck was not in 4wd when this happened either.
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Our temps have hit into the -18 to -25 Celsius... I have noticed that on 3 different occasions now that the truck feels like its locked in 4wd when I reverse out of my drive way.My Truck is an F250 Crewcab with 4800 miles
This all started with the cold weather. At first I thought my 2 yr old was turning switches on while he was up front one time, but it happended again the following morning taking my 5yr old to school...
I back up up about 20 feet and then make a fairly sharp 90 degree turn and then all the way down the driveway to the street...its really noticeably on the 90 degree turn..once I turn to go forward it still seems jerky...same as having 4wd engaged on dry surface while turning..
After a little bit of driving it seems to go away...also keep in my mind that the 4wd switch has never been touched at anytime at all...we have a lightly snow packed driveway but my traction is still fine to where 2 wd is all that's needed
Could it be something in the rear diff "catching and releasing" for lack of a better term ?
Locker issues, clutchpacks...?
As I am typing I also remembered making a right hand turn on dry pavement and it felt like the rear end slipped a bit and then caught again, much the same way it would fell as if you hat one tire on a small patch of ice and slipped as ya took off and then caught as it hit the dry pavement...
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No complaints about the driveability of the truck, runs great, drives/stops straight, etc.
However, when driving really slow (<3 mph), and I put the window down it sounds like I can hear what sounds like stones in a hubcap. Sound seems like its coming from wheel area, not sure where. Not very loud, have to turn radio off, put window down to hear it.
Just had tires rotated about 1000mi ago at the dealership, they checked brake pad thickness(about 50% left).
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe GLS 3.5L AWD. Months ago I occasionally started noticing a strange sensation when backing up like the wheels were binding. Since it was intermittent I really didn't think too much about it and I don't drive the SF much except during bad weather or on vacation trips. The issue has gotten much worse and happens every time I drive it. This past week it bound up while turning into a tight parking place.
It binds to the point that the vehicle will just stop under normal acceleration. Backing up it does the same thing. When I finally got pulled into the parking place it felt like someone bumped me (I don't remember if this was before or after placing in park). I also feel it when taking very tight switchbacks in the mountains.
So doing research on this I came across the TSB about the Transfer Case Control Module, however after visually inspecting my module I determined it was made in May 2004 so it does not apply to the TSB.
Is it possible my module just went bad? So I am wondering what I should try? Replace the module with a used one (if I can find one) or foot the $300+ bill for a new one. Either way does anything need to be done to program it?
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my truck under throttle sounds like a jake brake noise that kicks in an out comming from turbo does it supose to do that
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I have a 2016 f350 super duty with 6.7L engine, at random times engine sounds like it has a rod knock, give more fuel, it goes away, driving at 40 to 55 mph the whole vehicle shakes all at different times and different days vehicle has under 6500 miles want to now anything before going back to dealer..
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Had extreme cold weather here and I left my truck unplugged for a couple of weeks. Started fine but stalled once the fuel was used up in the lines. Replaced fuel filer and filled with that anti gel stuff. Truck sounds like it is almost firing up but still cannot get it to run. When I turn the key on it sound like the fuel pump is working for about one minute and then turns off. Made sure the fuel filter was overfilled with deiseal. Turned it over so many times the lines should be full by now. I used that quick start stuff and it almost starts every time.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0 Diesel with 125,000 miles.
1st issue....When accelerating the fan comes on and it sounds like a jet engine taking off. Let off and it goes away! It acts like it does when you're towing something and put it under a load but you're not towing anything?
2nd issue...when towing a month ago hit a hill and totally lost power it was down to 25-30 miles an hour with it floored. Tranny gauge got up to about 3/4 but never any further. Let off pedal to try and get new gear and did not work, was like it was in a limp mode but never threw the wrench up. Finally got to top of hill and she cruised down other side just fine. No loss of power tranny back to normal. Then towed over weekend on flat land and tranny gauge went almost to overheat. Didn't seem to have power issue.
Since 1st tow issue it had 8 new injectors installed but hasn't seemed to change much. Fan issue was there before injectors and new injectors only, worked only with the cutting out it would do when cold and when driving in overdrive. Computer issue? Relays?
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I have a 2004 F250 Superduty with the 2003 6.0 Powerstroke inside of it. In the morning i can go out and start the truck perfectly fine starts up and runs like a champ, it will drive to any destination perfectly fine with no issues, ALTHOUGH .... once i reach where im going if i turn the truck off it will not start correctly. it cranks over and will start but sounds as if it is hydrolocking and in a matter of seconds kills itself. once it does this i have to let the truck sit for a minimum of 4-5 hours with the hood popped to allow motor to cool... as soon as its cooled completely i can start it and once again it runs perfectly fine until i turn it off again. if i leave it running at an idle it will sit and idle all day long and i can jump in and drive it fine. It just happens when it gets turned off.
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So I started my truck this morning and it sounds like air rushing out from the driver side of the engine. I currently have my ICP unplugged due to a bad sensor, will be replacing it on Sat. Also I have been having an issue with my turbo but I don't think that it's related as I here the air rushing sound when at idle as well at when driving. It seems to be a bit louder when the engine is cold but I could also be crazy about that.
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05 F-350 6L .. Automatic Transmission
When I got the truck I noticed it would slam hard into reverse. Ever since it is taking longer to engage reverse gear and now I have to rev it to 1000 rpms for it to engage with a hard SLAM.
I also noticed that if I do a fast take off, there is a knocking sound coming from drive shaft/differential area (like knock knock knock knock knock then goes away). Then a slight vibration ending at around 30 kph (~20 MPH). There is also some oil leaking from the transmission. I added some mercon sp yesterday - it was a bit low.
My guess for the knocking and vibration is the center support bearings and U-joints. Transmission??? One thing I know I am going to be banging away at that shaft but the transmission problem really scares me.
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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Ever since I picked up my truck (350 6.7, c/c, srw, lb) I get a "bounce" in the back of the truck right at 40 mph and it stops right at 45 mph. My first thought was that I have a bad tire. I have 18" Continental A/S tires on it. The bounce gets progressively worse if I stay between 40-45 mph but clears right up if I slow down or speed up out of that speed range.
This week I took the truck in because of the change oil light came on with only ~1200 miles since oil change. I finally remembered to tell the service department about the bounce. They had my truck for 3 full days and all they have managed to do is confirm my complaint, not fix it. They road pressure balanced the tires 3 times and they still had the bounce. They called the Ford hotline and were told to take the tires off of a brand new lot truck and see how they were. The bounce is still there with the brand new tires.
The bounce is unaffected by rate of acceleration or gear the tranny is in... it just happens at 40-45 mph no matter if I drive like my granny or a jack rabbit. I have heard comments like "its the nature of the beast" but I don't think so.
I took my truck back for the weekend but the tech is waiting on another reply from the hotline as to what to do next. Since the new tires didn't work my next guess is the drive shaft or rear end since it is definitely speed related. I just realized that I don't think I notice it when I am hauling my 5'er but I am not 100% sure about that.
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I have a 2013 f350 4 door longbed single rear wheel. The rear end bounces violently at 45 and 65 mph. Just today I had the truck had new shocks put on, was aligned balanced and tires rotated but it still bounces...
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Truck started riding weird, checked and my right rear tire is cupped. So now I get to buy new tires! I guess 60K and change on the original Michelin's is pretty good - whatdy'all think?
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I wasn't sure if I should be having any sway at all while pulling our new 30' TT. Dry wieght is 7200lbs, GVW is right at 9500lbs, tongue weight is around 800lbs, and I'm running a Fastway E2 WDH with sway control built in. While towing this weekend, I was experiencing a very slight amount of sway. It wasn't what I considered to be much of an issue but my wife and daughter both asked why the truck felt as if it was moving side to side slightly. When I say slightly, imagine a small glass of water filled about 1/4" from the top. The sway wouldn't have been enough to spill the water, but enough to sway it slightly back and forth. Winds were about 3-8mph hitting me from the north west (in relations to my trucks heading).
I do have some suspension enhancements that might have contributed to the sway. I have roughly increased the rear end by 4" by adding add-a-leafs and F350 blocks. I have Fox 2.0 shocks and a Helwig Bigwig sway bar. Plus I'm running 295 Nitto Trail grapplers , all 4 at 80psi. I've read that the more aggressive tires could also be a contributor.
My question ultimately is: should I be feeling any sway at all? Is a very slight amount of sway normal when pulling a 30' 9500lb rear hitch pull?
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I want to remove the 60% portion of the rear seat (seat and seatback) in order to make some room for my dog on a long trip this summer and I don't need him fighting with my daughter for space on the seat. Removing the actual seat back is easy enough, but I want to disconnect the middle seat belt at the bottom. It appears to click into the piece that attaches to the truck floor, but I can't figure out how to release it. There is a small hole in the "thingy" (yes, that's the technical term for it ) that I assume would be related to the belt release, but I can't seem to get it to release.
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When I bought the truck it had some crap tires on it and the deal was that they had to put tires on it for me. I just picked it up and notice that I have a vibration at 40mph it then goes away by 45 then it comes back at 60 then gone by 65. The vibration feels like it is come from the rear.
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