How to replace the side marker light in the headlamp?? Without taking of the grill and the whole head light assembly? I don't want to go through all that work for that little bulb.
View 1 Replies2012 King Ranch, Side marker lights on the side view mirrors. How do we remove it or gain access to bulbs!
View 7 RepliesI would like to replace my drivers side window. It has some deep scratches and with the windows tinted it really shows. Been looking for place to buy from but can't seem to find one.
The only one I found was on Amazon but was trying to find one cheaper or with no shipping charge.
I just replaced my batteries today on my 2011 F250 because of a no start situation. I guess it was about due since they were original and that gives me 5 + years of service and it happened in my driveway so I definitely am not complaining. However after I replaced them and started the truck the check eng lite came on....
View 8 RepliesI purchased a 2011 350 crew cab lariat 6.7 diesel last week. That night i noticed that the passenger side map light was considerably dimmer than the drive side. Had to go back to the dealership 2 days later anyways to get a second key made. Showed the tech the light and he gave me 2 new bulbs to replace both lights with. Both were great for about a week but i noticed the passenger side has once again become dim....
View 1 RepliesToday, I noticed some moisture in my drives side tail light lens. Of course I'm a few months past the bumper to bumper warranty.
View 12 RepliesMy left side rear blinker/ brake light is not working. The running/taillight side/filment of the bulb works, but the brake/blinker side/filament does nothing ! Just bought the truck used and it's my only issue, waiting on a owners manual, but I think each bulb is fused separate, and since half the bulb works, can I rule out the fuse and start chasing wires ??
View 5 RepliesWhen replacing the power steering pump on my 2006 should I go OEM on the pump or save some money and get a Napa or aftermarket remaned unit with the pulley installed? Also, whar is the fluid capacity of the power steering system?
View 14 Replies269k on a 04 6.0, in the rust belt, oil pan is needing replaced according to the tech. It looks rusty for sure. 1300+ to change it. I understand you have to lift the engine some to replace. Engine is stock, are there any aftermarket pan's worth looking at if I'm going to replace it?
View 7 RepliesMy low-beams are very dim and I am looking to replace them before an upcoming cross country trip. Question: what headlights do I have here, and what low-beam bulb do I need to order to get some more brightness?
View 7 RepliesIs there a way to fill up the reservoir for hpop and cooler after replacement? I didn't want to burn down the starter and kill batteries cranking all day until everything is full. I did the usual upgrades on the motor and about ready to try and get it started up. Where does the oil drain to when filter is removed?
View 3 RepliesSo, I blew my head gasket and have been looking for what to replace it with. From what I've seen, just an OEM gasket would be best.? I'm also putting ARP studs in it, unless there's another brand I should put in it.
View 3 RepliesCan I replace my n/g oil filter that is defective w/o draining oil? I did oil change and filter is leaking, bad gasket. If I remove oil filter will it only drain what is in filter or entire engine?
View 14 RepliesMy 2005 F-250 does not have power when the engine is cold. When the engine warms up then it seems fine. I believe that the fuel injectors need replacement. I was told that one cannot get new injectors. They are all re-manufactured. Is this correct?
View 14 RepliesWith how touchy our diesel fuel system is to any contaminates...what locking cap will replace the OEM fuel cap? Also, looking for a locking DEF cap? Looking for caps for a 2016.
View 13 RepliesI may have to replace fuel injector #8 on my 2004 6.0. Aside from doing brakes and rotors, I don't have any experience working on my truck.
Side note- this is the second injector to go bad in the past few months. Ford also wanted to replace the HFCM, so I'll be doing that as well.
Got everything done today. So I thought. Went for a drive. turbo not building boost. I checked the map hose and barb. Clean. Checked connection at ebp and vct, both plugged in. No exhaust leaks. turbo shafts feels good and spins good. made boost fine before repairs. 2006 6.0 f250 .....
View 14 Replies2004 6.0 90k miles... Oil cooler plugged & coolant puking due to egr cooler flash boil.
Flushed the coolant with tap water then replaced water pump and tstat weekend before. This week backflushed heater core & block. This weekend backflushed the oil cooler. My coolant system would be considered severe contamination due to tap water use resulting in rust. Average ect was 195-205 & avg eot was 230-240 before flush. Here's a baseline before flush.
Pulled the oil cooler exhaust cap, opened both block drains, pulled lower radiator hose, & hooked up otc blast vac. The pressure was pretty intense holding the hose into the bore just running water through it. Hit the trigger about 20 cycles of water then air blasts.
Filled with 1/2 gal of restore & tap water. Ran it for 2 hours with RPM 1k+ 95% of the time. Drove at 65 mph & grabbed some peak temps.
Then dumped restore while hot, was pretty cloudy but not that dirty. Let engine cool then filled with tap water, ran for 10 mins then dumped again. Stuck hose in degas with only the the drivers block plug pulled & revved engine a few times to have the water pump push any crap out. Pulled the oil cooler exhaust cap, opened both block drains, pulled lower radiator hose, & hooked up otc blast vac again. This time the back pressure on oil cooler was much less vs first time.
Took a mason jar with restore plus in it & boiled it in water. Got it up to 190 then poured it directly into the oil cooler & let it sit for 30 minutes. Then backflushed again.
Put rest of the whole gallon of restore plus in & topped off with tap water. Ran again for 2 hours with RPM 1k+ 95% of the time. Drove at 65 mph & grabbed some peak temps.
Dumped restore plus while hot & it was very green & contaminated with rust. Topped off with tap water, ran for 10 mins at 190 then dumped. Revved the engine again with hose in the degas bottle & only drivers block plug out to blow more junk out. Filled with tap water & dumped again.
It was late last night so I filled it with distilled & parked it. Plan to do 3 straight distilled water flushes this week running rpm 1k+ for 1 hour each time in hopes to rid all the chemicals.
The backflush didn't result in lower deltas, but it didn't puke from the degas bottle at all during both chemical flushes. The oil cooler definitely needs replaced but at least it's not puking anymore & will hopefully stay this way for about 1k miles of driving so I can let the coolant filter rid anything that breaks loose during driving. My hope was to get some sort of flow across the egr cooler to stop the flash boiling puking & get as much junk out of the system as possible. So I guess there's some sort of achievement in the end.
Currently running cheap regular green (mixes with all) elc. I am running the cheap stuff because when the coolant was puking a gallon of coolant every trip i couldn't justify upgrading to the Rotella ELC yet. Plan is to flush with rest of restore(1/2 gallon) after oil cooler r&r then switch to Rotella ELC.
From what I understand it should be dry where the valve goes. I would call it moist not wet but fairly moist. The top groove had the most wetness, the middle groove was dry and the bottom was nearly dry. Where do I go from here - the video I watched said to scrape out and vacuum - not dry enough.
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The cross members on my bed are toast. The whole bed bounces as I drive down the road. I know the cross members can be put in. I'm also considering a whole new bed. I keep hearing about these companies that pull the beds off new trucks to install custom aftermarket bodies, then sell the bed.
View 11 RepliesI have to replace the #6 glow plug. I confirmed it is bad and the harnes broke when trying to reove it with the proper tool. I ordered a new glow plug, ZD13, and a new drivers side harness.
I have never replaced a glow plug before but it seems pretty straight forward. I watched some youtube videos and did some reading.
I have read some state that you have to loosen the glow plug with a 10mm socket and then take some tubing and push it onto the glow plug to finish loosening it and prevent it from falling into the cylinder. I have read people saying it took them hours with a magnet to get the plug out of the cylinder.
If the plug is threaded and is removed from the threads how is it possible for it to fall past the threads into the cylinder?
Anything special I need to know? Anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the connection? What the torque spec is?