Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Shudder When Engine Lugged Down To 1000 - 1100 RPMs On A Hill
Mar 19, 2015
I purchased my 2013 F350 PSD July of 2014 and immediately noticed "the shudder" when the engine was lugged down to 1000-1100 rpms on a hill. Sounding like somewhere around the turbo belching air too. At first I was startled but learned to manually downshift to higher rpms and it will stop. Once or twice I tried accelerating out of it and it shuddered as bad as the poster who said it made the steering shudder too.
My truck has 16,000 miles and I never let the rpms drop now. So I figure I have a real problem I'm not imaging. What should I tell my dealer is the TSB or remedy ?
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While I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
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I drive a 2008 Elantra automatic,and have a constant engine shudder/vibration whenever the rpms are between 1000 and1500. The engine shudder stops as soon as I accelerate above 1500 rpms,or take my foot off the gas completely.
The dealer recommended cleaning of the fuel injector system,not sure if thats the course to take.I do know my model has had fuel pump issues,but the dealer has told me all recalls on the car have been processed.
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I've got about 1100 miles on my new truck now and I will be heading to S.D in a week or so towing my car hauler with FJ40 on top and camping gear. About 10 000 pds.
Would it be wise to dump the factory oil and go with 5w40 Rotella? It has been getting really hot here the last two weeks and its only getting hotter as I drive south.
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I noticed a slightly higher RPM at idle (1100-1200) with outside temps in the mid 50's after a 15 mile trip. I dont recall what it usually is, it just seemed to revving higher. What would say normal RPM's are on a warm engine.
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If I could determine the resistance of the accelerator pedal at around 1000 rpms, couldn't I rig up that resistance and switch it on in the accelerator pedal circuit to make the truck go to high idle? Any flaws in my thinking?
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I have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
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IOur 2003 suburban often gets a "reduced engine power" displayed by the computer and the RPMs drop to below 1,000. The vehicle will not accelerate and will not go above 1,200 RPMs no matter how much gas it is getting. Flooring the gas pedal has absolutely no effect and the truck continues on its merry way at about 20 miles per hour.
I have been told by various amateurs that it is the gas lines or electronics that regulate the gas flow. The reduction in engine power seems to happen randomly, but most often if the vehicle is idling for too long (and I'm sure the 110 degree heat doesn't work). I can get it fixed much quicker if I know what the problem may be.
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Yesterday it was running fine today only half throttle, going up a hill no power throttle push 12 down let off the throttle engine smooths out and starts picking up speed ....
EGR stuck????
CAC boots look good do not hear any leaks on the tubes
no smoke
ICP 675 at idle full temp, cold 1200
OEM filters with OEM caps
ficm 48.5 to 47.5
Can hear the turbo spool up
Oil temp less than 10 dec difference with water temp
No code showing up
141,000 2003 F-350 dually
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So my 11' F350 is over heating when the engine RPM's are below about 1300 whether the truck is moving or not. If I let it idle for 2-5 minutes I can watch the temp gauge go to red and an engine over temp message appears. I noticed that if I rev the engine to > 1300 RPM it cools back down.
This appears to be a water pump going bad, any other thoughts? Are there instructions for changing the water pump here on the forum?
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Just bought my 2013 Platinum 350 DRW 2 weeks ago. 9,000 miles on it. I was cruising along yesterday at around 45 mph in 6th gear going up a slight incline. Truck was fairly low rpm don't remember what exactly. As I'm going up this hill it begins to shudder quite a bit almost seemed like the turbo shuddering while lugging up the hill at a low rpm in 6th. I stepped into the throttle to get it to downshift into 5th and it stopped. I never experienced anything remotely like this in my 2011 6.7.
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2011 ford f350, 200,000 miles. I was getting an antifreeze spray on the windshield while pulling and going up a hill. It was from exhaust pressure going into the coolant system. It was building over 16 psi and blowing out the degas bottle.
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a few times when making a tight turn on hilly terrain or a hill on a road, I've noticed a grinding sound in the front of the truck and a vibration in the steering wheel. I've so far chalked this up to the hill assist feature, but today I was on relatively flat ground in a parking lot with a dip in it. While crossing the dip in a tight turn, I noticed the same thing again.
I've checked the tires/wheel wells and there is no rubbing, etc.
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In addition to significantly louder noise from the Turbo on start-up, we've started to hear a pretty concerning noise while descending a hill in Tow-Haul. Not sure that the T/H has anything to do with it other than getting the engine in a RPM range that causes the noise. We've taken it in and tech says "That's just normal noise"... What ever that is.
Here is a link to an example : Tow haul making a lot of noise in my F350 diesel. Pulling a very heavy horse trailer. - YouTube
Best next steps for a 64,000 mile 2012?
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Today I visited a buddy who lives on a pretty steep hill. I always set my E-brake while in Neutral to make sure it's holding the truck before sliding it into park. So I got out and unloaded a few things and was in his garage. I heard a skidding sound outside, I was about 40 feet away from it when I looked out my truck was skidding down the hill!
I ran out and to the drivers door, opened it and pressed on the brakes with left hand right when it hit the bottom of the hill and it barely stopped from hitting the blue car parked on bottom of the hill. Next time if I stop on this hill I'll make sure it''s nose up hill and make sure I have 4X4 engaged to have all wheels locked up. I know this probably happened because the lack of weight on the rear wheels but this was a pretty crazy scare with only 7800 miles on her!
You can see the skid marks from my rear wheels, my friend lives in the middle of the block.
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My 2004 started shuddering at 45mph or while going up a 4-6 degree hill. It was well past the suggested 100,000 mile spark plug change. I thought about changing the plugs myself until I heard that they could possibly break and would be difficult to remove. I took the truck to a shop and had the plugs changed.
For about 2 days it ran okay, but the shudder returned and we got PO303 (mis-fire cylinder #3), PO316 (mis-fire on start-up), and PO171 (system to lean, bank one) Codes. The shop replaced the fuel injector on cylinder #3 and again the truck ran okay for about 2 days. My son and I cleaned the other three injectors on bank one, cleaned most of the sensors and the MAF.
That work cleared the PO171 Code, but we still had a mis-fire on cylinder #3. We swapped the spark plugs between #1 and #3 and got a mis-fire on cylinder #1. We replaced the plug on cylinder #1 and that cleared the code. The truck is running great.
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I do what's written in the book (hold brake, turn ESP off, S-mode) but when i press the throttle I cannot go over 1000-1100 RPM - after a slight vibration the clutch seem to disengage and the engine goes idle. What am I doing wrong or is my version without LC?
The car is 2009 Golf 6 1.4 TSI 160hp DSG.
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Had these 2 warning lights show up this morning for no reason. What does it mean? Truck drove fine to work. Guess a trip to the service dept is in the future.
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Audi A3 3.2 owner here from Fortitude and have rough / lumpy idle issues? While at a stop in neutral w/a cold or warm engine, it seems a little rougher than one would expect. If you rev it to 1000-1100 rpm the whole car shakes.
Engine Mounts worn?
APR Software causation?
Cam Followers or faulty coils?
Do I need a heavier duty front and top engine mount?
Wondering if CAI and Exhaust along w/ the APR ECU tune is causing it or if I'm just being paranoid.
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So I have had this happen 3 times so far. As I am driving, and step on the accelerator, I get a very bad shudder in the engine. The whole front of the truck is jumping up and down. Once I slow down it stops and is fine.
It has happened on the following three occasions but it is intermittent and does not do it all the time:
1. driving up a long grade at 45 mph for 5 minutes. I stepped on the accelerator to speed up and it happened.
2. Getting on the highway from 45 to 70 fairly quickly.
3. Once I got on the throttle heavy and got up to 80 MPH. I laid off the throttle to slow down and when I stepped on the accelerator again it happened.
I was not towing at any of these times. I do have warranty still but since I cannot always replicate it, I have not taken it to the dealer yet.
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The past month or two, my garage-kept 2011 F350 6.7 with 38K miles will shudder on startup for a second or two or three then runs normal. What would be causing that? She is my every day driver, but I don't drive her every day. Seems that the longer she sits, the rougher the startup. Last time I drove her was Monday. Started her up tonight to run to the store and she shuddered for about three seconds.
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