Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Shifting Not Smooth From 3rd To 4th / Slight Hesitation
May 19, 2014
i bought a used 2011 F250 and really like the truck and there is no comparison when towing the trailer.
1.) I've noticed the truck doesn't shift smoothly from 3rd to 4th. Under light acceleration the RPMs climb, then drop slightly, then climb, and finally the truck shifts into 4th gear. It's almost like the truck wants to shift but doesn't. I believe a selenoid was replaced on the truck.
2.) From a dead stop, when pushing slightly on the gas pedal there is a slight hesitation or unresponsiveness with the truck wanting to proceed forward.
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I had a no-start, replaced standpipes and dummy plugs. Passenger side dummy plug o-ring was shot, some of the others were pretty worn. Polished the spool valves and replaced injector seals. Confidently put it back together and fired it up. Idled sweet, bad low on power, especially at low rpm. FMP was bumping 45 so sent it to ED. It seemed a little better but not fixed. No visible smoke. Engine temp doesn't seem to make a big difference but it may be slightly better warm. Fuel consumption is hovering around 9mpg over the last 150mi. FPW stays around 800us warm/5.8ms cold. I think the low mpg is the excessive throttle needed to pull away from stops and climb hills.
I spent the day checking stuff and found the following.
The only codes are for a couple of glow plugs and a "key in ignition" error. No contribution codes. Monitored (with FORScan) the turbo (MAP, Baro, EBP, VGT), FICM, TPS, ICP/IPR(cold and warm) EGR, vRef, MAF vs TPS, and some other stuff like miss fire count (0), voltages everywhere I could look, and FPW. I saved a dozen files while checking this stuff and can be more specific on the numbers. Fresh fuel filters, No bubble in upper filter housing while cranking. Fuel pressure was 64 at idle, 61 when power braking or revving. No leaks on CAC or exhaust.
Possible culprits : Could I have done something to cause low power when I cleaned up the injectors? I'm sure the orientation of the spools and coils were right but I did "fudge" on the torque for the coil screws. If anything they may be a bit loose as I read a couple of times over tightening would cause problems. I am certain there is no play and a slight amount of load on them. I did clean the tips and bodies on a bench grinder with a gold colored wire wheel, light pressure and just a quick pass cleaned them up. Also, I ohmed the coils while they were on the bench. No shorts or opens except where there was supposed to be opens. All the coils were .5ohm except three read .6 and two read .8. Injector buzz sounds raggedy, not smooth. Any of that a issue?
Cold ICP/IPR is higher than it used to be, at 40 degrees I see 35% and 1300psi but ICP desired is 1250psi. I also noticed monitoring the TPS, rpm desired stays at 0. All three tracks measure position but one shows a constant .25v while the other two vary. Throttle position fault stays at "no" at all times. When it was a warm no-start (at the beginning of all this) I cranked it for maybe a minute total. ICP never went above 300psi so I knew why it wasn't starting. It was cranking normally in the beginning but part way through the second try RPM's went up suddenly as if it got easier to turn. When I started the truck the next day it limped home in this "low power" mode and even though it starts righ up now and idles smooth cold, the power issue remains. I plan to get a better set-up and recheck fuel pressure at WOT tomorrow.
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06' with 85,000 on it started smoking yesterday. When idling , and stopping at red light, and then sometimes it doesn't. Run it this afternoon for about 10 miles, let it warm up. Ran good and smooth didn't smoke when cranked then at the red light it started to put out a little white smoke. Drove back home, pulled egr valve and it did have a little wet on it, the coolant level has dropped some to. I scanned it and it didn't have any codes, no misfires or anything! Is it safe to say that the egr cooler has a small crack in it and its just starting to leak?
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2003 F350 6.0 with 290k+ ... It has a skip in the engine at idle and running. At times when running down the road skip seems to get worse. Changed both fuel filters, didn't work. Truck start up is normal, no leaks, and flashing no codes.
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Last night I bought 2000 F250, 346k on it... Crew cab short bed 4x4 with ranch hand bumpers like I wanted .... Headed back home (Miami FL ~1100mi) and covered about 200 miles @70-75mph before i ran into few problems ....
First off, while cruising I noticed slight hesitation in the throttle, with loss of speed regardless of pedal pressure, noticeable on inclines. It would go away on downhill and get smooth response again and pick up speed. This went on for about 40 miles.
Then I noticed heater blower stop blowing hot and start blowing cold, without me changing any settings. At the same moment, I noticed temp gauge move up and I hit next exit offramp to check what's up. During right turn at the end of off ramp truck stalled. Pulled to the shoulder, and popped hood.
Noticed empty degass/overflow bottle. Carefully opened lid and water gushed up to the top. When all pressure slowly released, water pulled down and emptied the bottle. Both upper and lower radiator hoses are empty. Engine oil has no traces of water tho. There were no leaks under the truck. I then tried to fire up the truck to get me to the gas station 1/8th mile away.
No crank in Park. WTS comes on and goes off. Cranks in Neutral, RPMs come up some, oil pressure shoots up to normal running position, but won't fire. Tried a while then gave up as not to kill starter and batteries completely.
Fuel pump works 20 sec then shuts off. There is fuel in bowl. I covered 140 miles since last full fill up, so not fuel pickup issue I don't think.
Summary
Have crank
Have RPM
Have oil pressure
Have fuel
Have (had) batteries, now not so hot
It's cold out ....
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(2000 F-350, 7.3L, 205k miles) Over this weekend, I noticed while driving mostly in the lower gears, that there was a slight hesitation with the throttle pedal depressed about half way or less. Seem to get worse as the day went by, but no lights or anything came on. Changed the fuel filter and added a fuel injection cleaner to the tank. Checked the oil and it was low, so I filled it to the correct amount.
Drove it around the next day, and it seemed to be good, until it warmed up some, and continued to hesitate. The hesitation seems as if it's not getting constant fuel, and the truck jerks a little. Once you get up to over 2000 rpms, it goes away. Looking up other reviews on similar issues, most have pointed to the throttle pedal sensor and just changed out the pedal assembly. Before I take it that far, I wanted to see what was the corrective action.
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I am having a slight hesitation problem on my 2002 gls. When the car is cold and I am shifting with low rpm there is a slight hesitation untill higher rpms then it seems to clear. I wouldn't say a "stutter" or enough to "buck" the car but definitely noticeable. The strange thing is when the car gets up to temp it seems to stop. Almost like a carb on an older engine.
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So I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
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So lately I have been having issues with my 6.0 smoking, hesitating, and chugging. It seems worse when the vehicle has been idling for a minute or two (as in at a red light) and when I depress the accelerator it starts to move, but chugs and sputters, spurting light gray smoke, then the boost hits hard, the truck surges forward, leaving a massive cloud of smoke behind, then seems to run fine until I come to a stop again. I got the usual EGR codes, so I cleared the codes, pulled and cleaned the EGR valve of all built up soot and carbon, and reinstalled it. It seemed to run okay again right after doing that work on it, but then started acting up again this afternoon.
Shot the same codes for EGR (P0404, P1335). I cleared them again, and it continues to drive like crap. Other than EGR that I can look into? Or will I need to pull and clean the valve again tomorrow when the sun is up? At first I was thinking I might also be having fuel injector stiction issues, possibly turbo vane stiction issues, maybe FICM issues, but it's only feeding me codes for EGR.
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I'm taking my new to me 2011 KR 6.7 I've had it 1 week, to the dealer tomorrow to get them to look at the hesitation on takeoff. I have read on here that not all trucks are doing it. There is 25500 miles on it and have been averaging 15.3 mpg empty, is this about normal for what people are seeing? I'm running the 3.31 gear ad I thought I would get better mpg. This truck was built in Feb. of 2011 would it have the 400/800 settings or would it have to be flashed?
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My truck is developing a hesitation or a miss when accelerating. It only does it in the beginning of accelerating like when just starting off from a stop. Seems like its more noticeable with the more I get on it. If that makes any sense. When just lightly accelerating it doesn't do it, like going slow through town from light to light. But when I give it more is when I feel it. It seems like it only does it before the turbo kicks in and it puts out a little smoke too only before turbo kick in. After that it runs good with no noticeable miss or anything. WOT runs feel good after it clears up. Its just when first starting out with anymore that 1/4 throttle I can feel it.
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I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
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So I was turning into my neighborhood tonite, when I got a really loud thud and a major hesitation in the engine. Fortunately I was in my neighborhood and could basically coast to my house.
No CEL came on and I don't seem to have any leakage (only thing dripping underneath was condensation from a/c I believe). Obviously too late for service tonite, so have tow scheduled for 7am. What could have happened? The no CEL has me confused. I was able to restart it and it seems to idle fine, but give it has and it hesitates.
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When I am on the highway, my 2005 Excursion (6.0) will hesitate/sputter/buck intermittently, usually between 70-80mph/ 1800-2200 RPM, but especially triggered by hills and inclines. Each sputtering episode usually lasts about 5-10 seconds and then will go away for minutes at a time. Does not sputter upon take off or initial acceleration. There is no smoke of any kind. Just got it out of the shop where the mechanic replaced ALL 8 injectors and the fuel pump, as well as flushed the fuel lines, and new fuel filters, and oil change (2 injectors were bad, but there was metal in the fuel filters, so to be safe I replaced all of them - ALL OEM PARTS for everything, including filters).
The week before, I had the IPR valve replaced. Also, recently had the back pressure sensor replaced and the EGR was deleted - and turbo cleaned when the EGR was deleted last month. I also tried unplugging the ICP sensor to make sure that wasn't the issue. Dropped $6k into this thing in the past month and about to lose my mind (and wallet). All research points to either clogged EGR or bad fuel injectors, but both have been addressed, so I am not sure where to look next. No current codes showing up. No signs of leaking oil.
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Have just about 1,600 miles on tuck born on 12/14/11. Love it, but.. When going slow in subdivision I am getting some hesitation/bucking when going in the upper 20s/lower 30s. When I feel it I look down and I am usually in 3rd. Is this the transmissible thing? When it happened Sunday it felt like it was going to die. If I start off with a quicker start (to get to highway speed) it shifts fine. It just started the last few weekends......
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I've only owned a 6.0 for about 10 months now. I have a 2005 SCab FX4 with 125,000 miles on it. It has an Airaid cold air intake and MBRP exhaust without a muffler, everything else is stock. The stuttering/hesitation starts at about 1500 rpm, is worst at 1600rpm and seem so to go away at 2000rpm. It also seems to hesitate when I barely press the gas pedal while driving. Based on other fuel issues with other vehicles, I would assume this is a fuel problem, but am not well versed in the 6.0 engines. Fuel filters were said to be good by the dealership about 10,000 miles ago. EGR valve was replaced last week. I'm not blowing smoke of any color, even at WOT. I was thinking an injector may be the issue, but I show no other symptoms besides the hesitation/vibration. I don't feel any lack of power when I give it full throttle. I would like to know a definitive way to diagnose the problem without going to the stealership.
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Finally registered on this site after hearing good things from others who are currently on here. Been a 6.0 PSD owner since buying the truck since new in 2003-F250 CCSB. I have done regular maintenance on it and have had a good run until recently. Everything is stock on the motor and currently has 229 000 miles.
I will describe my current problem: I have borrowed my brother's tablet and have the following numbers from the Torque pro app. While trying to accelerate it now has a hesitation and seems to not have the power.
At idle: 630 psi HPOP, 24 % IPR, 47 volts FICM, ICP volts .1
Trying to accelerate on at highway speeds: 1230 psi HPOP, 83% IPR, 47 volts FICM, ICP volts 2.6
Also, sometimes when starting the truck it seems to rev extra high for a split second. My brother says I may have a high pressure leak on the system. What I should check first?
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Recently I replaced the unison ring on my turbo, EBP sensor and cleaned carbon out EBP tube/upper part of motor. After doing so she seemed to run fine but not like I remember when I first got her. Plenty of power but ever so slightly off, only an owner would notice. Few weeks later she hesitates a little bit while she's cold in the morning. I let her run 3-5 minutes b4 actually driving but as u know it's a little while to get up to operating temp. Temps seem OK 190-200 EOT/ECT. Fresh oil/filter, air filter, coolant, EGR was cleaned out a little while back and EGR valve replaced 25k ago. I'm not sure where to look at this point...the motor has about 30k on it.
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
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Sitting at a light. I noticed a slight vibration while in gear. Get home. Put her in park and noticed it again. Took her for a spin again. It seems to do it at low speeds, cruising and goes away once I'm on it? What would be a good starting point to track this down?
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So it looks like my lift pump (low pressure fuel pump and sending unit) is going. Multiple low fuel pressure warnings over last two days and hesitation at low RPMs. Not hearing pump run when I turn the key all the time but no issues starting. About 16,000 miles since last fuel filter change but picked up new filters today at dealer.
Asked about a fuel pump and he quoted PS401 and none available in Canada and had to inquire direct to Ford - 30 day wait on a part that will turn my truck into a brick if not replaced. Can't find a PS401 but I can get a PS 402 out if the USA in 5 days.
Any difference in these? Dealer is an idiot and can't even determine if there is a difference or too lazy to find out for me. I don't even know if I can prime the truck if I change filters at this point and this is a quick change job for me if I had the pump. Going over the system from back to front in the morning.
Don't ask about warranty. Just hit 160,000 KM on my truck.
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