I replaced all my shock and the last one front passenger side gave me fits. The lower mounting bolt stripped and I am unable to secure the shock. My question is..is it safe to drive around without the front shock to get over to the parts house? I plan to use back roads and low speeds. 20 mile round trip.
View 6 RepliesWell about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
View 3 RepliesI am a new 6.7 owner and had/ have a 7.3 As I have been getting to know the truck I have been under it and noticed that the front drive shaft and axle are locked in. My hubs are switched to auto but I know on my 2000 7.3 when my hubs are on auto my front axle and driveshaft are disengaged... I'm wondering if the new 4x4 system is different. I know that can save on MPG
View 6 RepliesIs this part covered by my premium care esp warranty? I thought that I read it was at one time might be mistaken.
View 8 RepliesHaving that flash on the dash? Truck was running fine and the buzzer when off and dash said I think -- when safe stop and shut off engine immediately. Scared the scr-p out of me so not sure if that was word for word. Jump on the binders and got it off the road and called a wrecker. Now it's at the dealer waiting for them in the morning. Checked oil and don't see any leaks. Now I have lost my confidence in the truck. 42000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesSo I have a 06 350 and I'm getting clunking from drive to reverse and now with drive too, I know my rear diff is on it's last days but I am wondering if that could cause the clunking and now my truck around 90km shakes likes crazy and same thing wana know if that's the diff. And if I was to fix diff myself would it not just be easier for me to just swap axles if I wanted to be cheap??
View 12 RepliesIs my car relavtively safe to drive?
I just took my car (1984 Toy Corolla DX) to the mechanic and the right front strut fell from its mount. The mechanic lowered the vehicle and reinserted the strut. I drove it home, ever-so-cautiously. Is the car safe to drive for emergency trips (pay bills, buy groceries) until I can get it fixed next month?
I'm driving a 2008 Highlander, but this question applies to almost any car, I think. On a couple of occasions the Highlander has lost power, and I've lost braking and steering ability. Each time this happened I was going at slow speeds and was able to stop without a nasty problem then restart the car. But what if this happens and I really need to brake? Three related questions:
(a) Are power brakes going to stop the Highlander even when it has lost power?
(b) If not, will the parking/emergency brake be useful?
(c) If the answers to (a) and (b) are "No", what should I do?
Of course, I'd love to know why Highlander lost power, but my Toyota dealer was not able to replicate the problem, even after driving the SUV 100+ miles (the two occasions it happened to me were separated by about 5000 miles of driving).
Today I was driving my 04 f350 6.0 I got to a red light when it turned green I hit the accelerator and it would not go it would only go about 10 so I limped to a parking lot and it shut down, it will crank and it sometimes Will start but only rev up to a grand then put in drive and it dies I had someone run me out a new pre programmed FICM and I replaced it right there and still will crank but won't run so I had it towed to a ford dealer and dropped my key in the drop box, what it may be?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2004 6.0 with the 5L110 transfer and torqueshift transmission. While test driving after installing everything, I didn't get 7 ft down the road and the tires locked up and she came to a dead stop. Now I only have reverse but I can still feel the tranny engaging into drive but will not move.
View 2 RepliesIf the truck is cold when i put it in drive it engages fine. Drive to the store, start it up again after its warm, I then need to rev to 800 rpm to get it to engage. Once drive is engaged one time i can go from park to drive, rev to drive doesn't matter it works correct every time. Rebuilt the transmission with suncoast kit. New precision industries billet torque converter. New trans pump, new valve body, replaced all pistons and seal rings. Replaced all the solenoids except lo rev and overdrive. Will change those in the next couple days. Side note transmission had this exact issue before i rebuilt it. Exhaust back pressure reads 55 to 60 psi at idle. I replaced sensor, cleaned pipe, and checked the wires for cuts. Previous owner had a smoke switch wired up at some point but he removed it before i bought it. Truck is tuned by innovative, sxt livewire... does the same thing with stock tune.
View 14 RepliesOn Saturday I drove my truck 450 miles, all of it towing, in hilly New England. The turbo boost gauge was operating at 20psi or higher for many of the hills, and the 13mpg average was indicative of how hard the truck was working (normally empty I will get 20+). The next day, I drove it about 3 miles and it started a regen. Why? Wouldn't it have been passively regenerating for most of those miles? A steady 75mph for hours at a time?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel with a 12 foot flatbed on it that I use for my power washing business. The air conditioner sometimes won't work when I first drive it in the morning. After I make a few stops and turn the engine on/off a few times it will all of the sudden start working again.
This happens about 2 or 3 times a month and I don't have time to have it sit at Ford so they can duplicate the problem. It's going in for it's 60,000 mile service in the morning anyways so I'll still have the dealer look at it. What might be causing this?
2015 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12 Foot Flatbed
Me and the wife just now noticed this issue after about a week of owning this 6.0 f350 auto 4x4. Leaf spring front and rear. Long bed. Listing all this stuff because not sure if it matters.
Around 50mph if we drive normally about 1500rpm the truck seems to jerk a little as we climb in speed. If we get the truck into the 2000rpm range it goes away.
Not sure if it's suspension, transmission or engine. Any clue what it could be. ???
I have a new issue that started last Friday. When I put the truck in gear and let it begin to pull itself, drive or reverse, it has a strange jerking or slipping deal. It doesn't happen every time but when it does you can feel it in the drivetrain. I took it to the shop that did the motor work and they ran a diagnosis(while I watched) on the motor and its turns up nothing. It runs perfect, shifts like it always has, but just has this jerking/slipping thing when I let off the brake and it starts to pull itself.
If I go from brake to throttle its fine. I had the rearend diff worked on to fix the leaky ring and pinion seal and the differential cover sealed at the dealer last month. I searched and don't see anything like what I am experiencing. Could my tranny be giving it up now? It has never been overworked and never overheated. I had the full fluid service done at about 70k and now it has about 130k on it.
I've pulled the fuel lines and disconnected all the electric plugs. I don't seem to be able to remove the unit as the 4x4 drive shaft is in preventing me from full removal. Is this possible? Do I have to remove the drive shaft? Very frustrating as this should have been a 15 minute or less job. A video would be useful, but all my searches show only two wheel drive removal.
View 14 RepliesNear the end of a 5 hour drive on Christmas day my check engine light came on. I read the code: P0401. I got it into the dealer this week and was told it was a blocked EGR cooler. The truck has 66k miles. Lucky for me, I have the extended warranty! They replaced a "tube assembly". I sure hope this is not something that is going to repeat. I would hate to pay for this repair in the future. They had the truck 2 days. Is this a common problem or am I just "lucky"?
View 8 RepliesMy buddy has a 2011 250 and is having some weird issues with a clicking noise. It started out when you put the truck in gear (D or R) and touch the gas it would click. Seems to be coming from the middle to rear part of the truck. Now it clicks when he's driving. This all started after he got 35's and a leveling kit. It's taller springs in the front and added a block in the rear. It has less than 15k on it.
View 14 RepliesI just noticed I could manually down shift transmission in D drive by tapping - on shift lever. I thought this was only possible in M manual mode.
View 3 RepliesI've been having frequent, low speed, short trips lately and have been seeing the 'Cleaning Exhaust Filter' message pop up. Given that I have only been mere minutes from my destination in each case, I thought 'good luck with that'.
Today I see the 'Drive to Clean' message, followed by the 'Cleaning Exhaust Filter' message which stayed on (I have been used to it appearing for only a second or two.)
It should all be fine tomorrow though as I have a longer trip planned.
First... Items I have replaced:
- New EGR valve
- New sensor
- New Fuel filters
- New Oil filter
Problem:
While driving I have a stumble along with a small amount of black smoke at this time ( was white/bluish smoke ) previous. I have dis-connected the batteries to force the computer to relearn the EGR valve. The turbo spools up .. getting about 20 psi @ hard throttle and then about 5 psi after it goes into the final drive gear. Speaking of which ... the stumble is always worst on the final drive gear...