Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Right Rear Tire Is Cupped?
Jul 2, 2014
Truck started riding weird, checked and my right rear tire is cupped. So now I get to buy new tires! I guess 60K and change on the original Michelin's is pretty good - whatdy'all think?
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I have a 04 F250 6.0 and change transmission and transfer case. Now all of a sudden the rear passenger tire is locking up but the rear driver side still moves. I've dropped the carrier and the ring and pinion looks great and so does the spider gears ... Need on whole new rear....
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I do 98% of my driving unloaded and almost never tow. (Kinda weird for an F350 huh) I know that the truck recommends going with 65psi front and 80psi rear but the rear tires seem to not be wearing evenly across the tread pattern. The edges still have the little rubber stubs sticking out of them even after almost 3000 miles. Should I be running a lower tires pressure in the rear when empty or should I just let tire rotations take care of the uneven wear. If I should air down, what pressure would be recommended? The front tires are wearing normally at 65psi and they have more weight on them then the rear.
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Well so far I have had this truck for 5 years and I'm going for the third set of tires. So far I have run Nitto terra grapplers, and currently BFG at ko's. Both sets wore out around the 20,000-mile mark, they both wore very evenly, rotated every 6,000 miles, properly inflated, check the lineup at 2 different reputable shops.is it something about the 275-65-20s that make them wear faster? I really don't need an at tire as I don't go off road that much so I'm thinking of a good all season radial.
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hello, so yesterday at the local gas station I was talking to a guy who has a new, nice looking GMC 1 ton 4x4 nondually truck. we started talking about milage and he told me that going up 2 sizes and adjusting it in the onboard computer he was now getting 22mpg.
so I know this isnt an apples to apples kind of thing, and I do know that for example on my F250 it is geared to haul... but has anyone got real data on getting back down to a 3.55 gear adjusting tire size? has it made a difference ? especially if it is just a DD and not a work hauler. yes we all know if you go too far milage gets worse, but I always found for a non-work truck that the 3.2-3.5 rear gear ratio or equivalant eith by changing gears or tire size was a sweet spot for MPG.
right now at 13K I get about 17-17.5 mpg unless I am driving on the interstate and then I get a tad more.
thanks Fert
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How do you access the tire air valves on the DRW, the inside tire valve? I can't get my air guage or my compressor air filling connection on the inside tire.
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Why are my tire pressure sensors going off, I have 70#'s in the front and 62#s in the rear, which is more than enough air.
None of the tires have a leak in them, yet I keep getting the sensors to trigger, and why would it be so hard for the system to point out which tire is low??
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I had the low tire pressure message and light come on back when i was visiting california, about 3 weeks ago..i checked the tire pressure, and a couple tires were maybe 5 psi low at the most.. i aired them back up to the right pressure (as stated on the door pillar sticker) and the damned light/message is still coming on.. how do I reset the TPMS? it says in the manual to just drive the truck 20mph+ for about 2 mins after getting the tire pressure correct, and the light/message should turn off. i have done that...
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One of the few disappointments I had with my 2011 F350 was it lacked a display of individual tire pressures like both Dodge & GM have. I figured the idiot light would have to do. Recently I found that an inner dual tire was flat. It made a subtle squeal when braking or turning sharply, and a quick inspection showed I picked up a nail.
I never got a tire pressure alarm. I read my manual and it describes the system, but the writeup only indicates setting up four tires. Am I missing something? Have you guys got a working tire pressure monitor on your duallies?
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I just see a fluid by the front passenger tire leak when the diesel is running and ac is on.There was fluid up by both aluminum lines going into a plastic canister in the engine compartment on the passenger side.I couldn't find any cracks in the hoses or aluminum lines..The plastic canister I believe is (AC ACCUMULATOR ) did have a hiss of air when I shut the truck off. I can't see where the clear liquid is coming from. Just started to leak by the front passenger tire.
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Well, at a little over 10k I have my first issue. My monitor displayed a Tire Pressure Monitor Fault. All tires are OK. Light won't go out. Guess it just earned a trip to the dealer.
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2013 F350 SRW . Pressure is correct . Anything special you need to do to make the light go away ?
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So my brother in law calls me because he is stuck in the mud. I back up to hook up to him. One rear tire slips into the muddy rut. Other tire is on dry hardpack. The tire in the mud spins non-stop. The tire on the hardpack wont move.... I feather the brakes as I have read it will engage the truetrac. Nothing.... Is this thing junk? I was super ticked off. How do I test the truetrac to see if it still works?
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I was updating the firmware on my mini max tuner today and decided to calibrate for the 37" tires. After calibration was done I got the code P1635, which is "Tire/Axle Out of Acceptable Range". Should I bring it back down to 34" where the FORD ECU stops calibrating? I mite have lost traction control with this calibration as well. Mite find out tomorrow if I get an itchy foot. Truck seemed to drive better and pull harder off the line....low rpm's.
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I just bought 4 new tires and since then the Tire Sensor light comes on after I drive about 20 minutes. The place I bought the tires from has used their tool twice now and it is still happening. Could they have done something to have made this happen because I had no problem before they changed the tires...
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My right rear tire picked up a screw this evening heading back toward Seattle from Chelan. I put the spare on and continued on my way. I noticed for the first few miles the traction control warning light was on. It went off and stayed off until I stopped for fuel and again it came on for a few miles. I'm suspecting this is due to a slight diameter difference between the 20" wheels with the Michelins and the 18" spare. I really hope this didn't stress the differential (3.55 ELD). As I understand it, unless locked the ELD is open all the time..... I would assume Ford wouldn't equip the truck with an incompatibly sized spare......
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I've got an 2016 F250 Diesel 6.7 PowerStroke, which I bought fresh off the lot, and just got my regular oil change and tire rotation today, thru a local Ford Dealership. I'm working out of town, so I didn't take it to my home dealership as I have been every 5,000 miles since I drive a lot for work. As of today, I'm currently at 47,000 miles. Just to stay on top of things, any time I'm asked to get any type of extra additives, or filters needing to be changed, I do so. I don't like bad surprises when it comes to vehicles. So after getting my truck serviced today, and back to work, I notice a constant "Ticking" but do not know why. Thought maybe after running it all day at work, not literally all day, that it would go away. I took it in at 7:00am, and here I am at 9:30pm, and it still ticking. What it could be?
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Ok haven't been on here in a LONG time. Sold my '12 and bought a DRW '14 F350 to tow our fifth wheel. Just got back from a 775 mile round trip pulling our fifth wheel. My dad noticed my passenger front tire was going bald on the outside. I said yeah it was pulling to the right and thought my tire was low but when I checked it was the right psi.
Turning to the left I was starting to get a grinding type noise. If I rolled my passenger window down you could here something just grinding away but when you straightened out nothing.
So I took it into the dealer and they tell me the outside tire wear is normal. I said it has 22,000 miles and the passenger tire will be bald on the outside in 4,000 more miles or less. Said they can't hear any noise, yet my wife can hear it, kids can hear it and people outside the truck can.
It's not normal for the passenger or drivers tire for that matter to go bald in less than 25,000 miles? Tires have always been kept to proper psi, I've towed only about 5,000 miles total with it. They are also taking the worthless rancho rebranded shocks off and going with bilstiens. I should have replaced them 10,000 miles ago. They are horrible shocks.
It really torques me that they have it for a week and can't find anything wrong. When turning to the left it's almost like bump steer in 4wd just not quite as bad but with also a grinding sound that you can hear inside the cab and can feel it in the floor board. Nothing evident but just looking under the truck.
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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What to do 2011 F550 RampTruck 11,850 miles on it the vehicle has been back to the dealer 5 times for the same trouble code P0299. After the last time it was in they had it for 2 weeks seemed to be fixed. Last week one of my drivers was towing a Chevy S10 50 or so miles and heard a very faint ticking like a stone in the tire that got instantly worse and before he could pull over started rapping and stalled out. We towed it back to the dealer they removed the Cab disassembled the engine and found a "blown piston" is there quote. What should we do about this problem the dealer is supposedly fighting with Ford and Ford doesn't want to put in a new engine.They want to fix it instead....
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I have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
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