Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Replacing Tires Replace TPMS Sensors Too?
Feb 23, 2014
Got 62K on my OEM Michelin LTX-AT2 tires. Very happy with the wear. Going to get them replaced in the next month with the same thing.
Question is, what is the expected life on the TPMS sensor/batteries in the wheels? Should I be replacing those at the same time? I put about 20K miles on per year, so tires last around 3 years. If TPMS is some multiple of 3, then I am ok, otherwise I will replace them when it goes in for new tires.
Any real world experience on battery life?
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Car is year old, 20k. Replacing tires because of bubbles. I expect to run new tires for about 3-4 years. Do I need to replace the TPMS sensors?
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My 2007 ES350 had a problem with the TPMS where it would flash for the first minute and then stay solid. After checking all 5 tire pressures and resetting the system by using the button under the drivers side dash, I determined that it was probably a bad sensor. Seeing as how they are 7 years old, this seemed reasonable. (I also checked to make sure the passenger side button for the second set of tires was not pushed).
I just had new tires installed at Costco, and brought 5 new sensors for them to install. They supposedly did whatever sensor registration magic is required, but I am still having the same issue. The light blinks for the first minute then goes solid.
What is interesting is that when I try to reset using the button, the light flashes slower (about 1 per second) 3 times, then goes faster (about every half second or so) for the rest of the minute. Is this some code that the system is trying to display?
Also, is there any trick to getting this system re-initialized that I can pass on to the Costco techs when I take it back up there?
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I just purchased a 2014.5 Camry and winter is around the corner. I was going to buy a set of oem 17in SE rims and put snow tires on with out the tpms sensors. The question I have to ask is once the light comes on can you disable the traction control. Reason I ask is because on my 2011 accord it forces the traction control on and is sucks. Snow tires without the sensors.
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My understanding, and it seems logical to me, that if you rotate the tires and do not reset the TPMS, the pressure and alarm would come from the wrong location. I have been told that the TPMS sensors are, serial number unique and the car needs to know what serial number is at what location.
Anyway, for a do-it-yourself guy to rotate the tires and have the alarms come from the correct location??
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Why are my tire pressure sensors going off, I have 70#'s in the front and 62#s in the rear, which is more than enough air.
None of the tires have a leak in them, yet I keep getting the sensors to trigger, and why would it be so hard for the system to point out which tire is low??
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Nothing mechanical, fuel filter change and coolant check. While its there I am going to have them look at a few things:
1. Back up sensors - they work intermittently with a message that comes up saying "check back up sensors" or something to that affect on the display. The icon on the display that lets you check off or on will not let you put a check mark next to "on" after you push the "OK" button to get out of the check message. There is nothing coating the bumper/sensors (mud or anything).
2. Blinkers - sometimes, out of the blue, my left turn signal comes on and it doesn't like to go off. I have to push the blinker wand down to the second full position then back, or repeat if it comes back on. It is almost always the left blinker. It also happens sometimes when I start the truck.
3. Windshield wipers - sometimes if I go from the remote start to key power in the morning I get the windshield wipers going. So I will turn them on with the dial and back off. This is pretty rare.
4. The Ford emblems are starting to corrode.
5. I might have them look at the cruse control - sometimes I can get the light to come on the dash and go to green when I push the + button, but it doesn't hold the speed. I have to shut the truck off and restart all the electronics for it to start working again.
How to check the back up sensors? My gut tells me with the rest of the issues that unless they can repeat and verify my "complaints" they won't be able to do anything. There probably isn't a code thrown for the blinkers going on at will. Is there anything I might be able to do to fix it? Or do these issues require parts being replaced - which we're back to square 1 with being able to verify what it's doing at the dealer?
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I have read countless threads and have done research and can't figure out my issue. Had remote start installed in the truck a month ago. The day it was installed sensors were working. I left the shop and went to back in and noticed they didn't work and the light popped when in reverse and sometime it will the random beeping. I did the check and found the inner right sensor was not buzzing. So ordered four from eBay and it still doesn't work. I even switched one of the others out thinking it was the eBay special issue. It didnt work so it's just that sensor. Now what? I have checked the wiring under the truck and it all looks good. What's my next step? Could the remote start have taken just one sensor out?
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A few weeks ago, the TPMS light (and the start-up warning) came on. I checked all the tire pressures and they were fine. I checked the spare tire, and sure enough, it was low and I fixed it. However, the TPMS warning still comes on every time I start the truck. It's not the flashing icon that indicates a problem with the system, it's just the steady "low tire" yellow light.
Not only is it annoying, but it won't indicate if there really is a low tire.
I know the old TPMS sensors only worked when the tire was rolling. If the modern sensors work that way, could it be the spare tire monitor? Is there anyway to know which sensor is sending the warning? I know the dealer is going to charge me an arm and a leg to look at this, so I'd like to know what's going on before I take it in.
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Had my TPMS warning go off yesterday on the road 400 miles from home. Checked all the tires, all within spec and continued on. But started to wonder if the spare tire also has a TPMS unit and it could be the spare fell below the threshold. I have not checked it yet, but figured I would ask if the spare also has TPMS.
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I had the low tire pressure message and light come on back when i was visiting california, about 3 weeks ago..i checked the tire pressure, and a couple tires were maybe 5 psi low at the most.. i aired them back up to the right pressure (as stated on the door pillar sticker) and the damned light/message is still coming on.. how do I reset the TPMS? it says in the manual to just drive the truck 20mph+ for about 2 mins after getting the tire pressure correct, and the light/message should turn off. i have done that...
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For the last couple months when not towing I take the front tires to 65 psi and the rears to 50 psi. It gives me the warning light which I click OK to every time I start it. This weekend I put everything back to 80 psi getting ready to tow and I can't get the warning light to go out anymore. I double checked my pressure to make sure everything was OK and it was. I will be taking it in unless someone knows a reset or something else to check out before I do.
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Is there a way to shut off the TPMS? Can you adjust the working pressures? My 2016 F350 which I have had now for 3 weeks, has 65psi in the front and the rear is 80psi. which empty rides like a rock. I want to lower it down to 60psi (rear). This made a heck of a difference on my 2008 Dually. Think that will cause a light?
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My work truck that I drive, a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 extended cab, rear parking sensors quit working. The button on the dash is lit up all the time like when you shut it off. I posted this on the F-150 section too and was able to find a suggestion that you can listen to each sensor while in reverse and if you don't hear a clicking at the sensor it has failed. All (4) sensors are clicking away while in reverse so not sure what else to check, no one in the F150 section, so that is why I put it here.
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Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
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2013 F350 SRW . Pressure is correct . Anything special you need to do to make the light go away ?
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I just bought a set of 2013 20" rims for my 2012 F-250. I can't seem to get the tire fault light to go off. I've gone through the "learn" process but it won't read them. Are the TPMS not the same between years?
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I'm not trying to sound like some dumb kid here but it really bothers me that my truck can't spin the tires. I don't go around beating on this thing, but when my friend's 95 jeep cherokee with a bone stock I-6 can roast his tires off, its kind of embarrassing that my 570 ft lb diesel cant even get a chirp on wet ground. I do have a limited slip rear axle, but shouldn't I still be able to spin them at least a little?
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2005 Excursion 6.0 with normal bullet proof mods... towing 6000# dual axle enclosed race car trailer.
I've been towing this same package since 2008 all over the eastern half of the US and averaging right around 10MPG.... hand calculated from fill up to fill up. Sometime a bit more on a flat run to Daytona, or a bit less through the mountains... but very close to 10 MPG.
Well the factory trailer tires finally wore out and I replaced them with 8 ply Maxxis M8008 trailer tires...... highly recommended by the camper crowd.
Since then, I've been round trip Baltimore to Pittsburg, and Baltimore to Daytona (total of 2500 miles) and I've been averaging a bit over 12 MPG consistently..... again hand calculated. Same package, same highway speeds.... nothing has changed in my towing style.
Seems almost to good to be true. At this rate the tires will almost pay for themselves by the time they are worn out. Any trailer tires make such a difference ?
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The truck is a 2004 f250. Build date is 7/ 03 so its an early 04. I have been in a parking lot for 3 days now with no money trying to get this truck to start. Me and my dad replaced the ipr pigtail and the ipr thinking this might have been the problem, because the ipr pigtail had a damaged connector.
Before doing this work the icp sensor connector had no oil in it, now after replacing the ipr and cranking the engine the icp has some oil in the connector, could this cause a short and not let the truck start, and if so will unplugging the icp allow the truck to start?
We were having trouble with no starts before this happened and when it did all we had to was push the ground wire back further that goes back to the ficm and the truck would start, but that is not working anymore.
Is it possible the ipr is not seated properly or the new ipr is bad out of the box? Or maybe the made in tawain pigtail connector to the ipr is bad?
We are thinking it may be a short somewhere in the harness since everytime we pushed the ground to the ficm up further to where it grounds before when we had no start problems this might have took the short out of the ipr or icp pigtails and allowing the truck to start. Injectors are buzzing when key is turned and I can hear the fuel pump.
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Can you replace the passenger side up pipe without pulling the turbo, etc? My bellows blew out. Y-pipe is still ok. I've already deleted the EGR, so what's the best to put back? Go back to the original style or just put in a straight pipe? Where to get one?
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