So, that means I have put 106,104 miles on my truck this year, and missed about 7 weeks for the truck being in the shop, could have been another 17,000.
So, it's time to replace the factory original brake pads?
I bought new pads for my truck and the fronts went on with no problem at all, but when I got to the rear the tabs/ears on the pads are about 1/8 inch wider than the notch they are supposed to fit in. I bought part number BR-1067, which is supposed to fit but obviously doesn't. What part number should I have bought? My truck is a 2007 F250 Super Crew Lariat FX4.
View 9 RepliesWe had approximately 7000 miles on our 2014 250 when we first heard our squeaking when we applied the brakes. This happened after we had been driving a while. Took it to the dealer to see what was causing the noise. They found out it was the front brakes. They removed both front wheels to find the inner pads wearing at an angle and the caliper piston boots partly melted in middle. They ended up replacing the brake pads and calipers with new and machined rotors.
View 14 RepliesOk so we just replaced our front and rear brake pads and had the rotors turned. Our rear brakes are fine but both our front brakes now make a clunking/popping noise when we brake.
View 4 Replies2015 F350 King Ranch. I am constantly getting flashed when my low beams are on. They are pretty impressive for factory headlamps but the high beams leave much to be desired. They pretty much suck.
376 mile trip tonight, 200 miles of it in the dark. I was flashed six times. I drive this trip twice a week, every week, almost always in the dark (Alaska). I'm usually flashed by on coming traffic a similar number of times each trip. The trip is usually made late at night so there is little traffic... so getting flashed 5-7 times could often mean 50% of the traffic.
Happens whether the truck is empty or loaded. Only people who don't flash me are semi trucks but cars, trucks, etc do.
Lights appear to be aimed fine and I haven't touched them since I got the truck new back in June. I find myself running the high beams, which provide less visibility than the lows, so on coming traffic can actually see me switch the high beams off in an effort to avoid getting flashed. Nope... they still flash me.
I'm at 30K miles and notice my front pads are nearing their end. Before someone says, "use search" I already did and didn't find anything. I know our front brakes are shared with the TTS so I figured I would start a thread for a central place regarding people's experiences. I'm quite impressed with the stock pads as I tracked the car and never got any fade all day. The squeal on the street is very occasional so I'm thinking VW put a more aggressive pad on the R in the first place. That being said, what have others found if they replaced their pads with something aftermarket? The car is my daily driver.
View 4 RepliesI just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
View 14 RepliesWell I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
Just got out of the dealer they said they recommend front brake change. They quoted me for ~730 just for Rotors/Pads/labor on the front (I am going to shop around).
I tried search Golf R Brakes info prior to posting but alot of the searches are for people buying Golf R brakes for Gti's.
1) Do I need to Replace Both Rotors and Pad at the Same time?
2) Currently Car is still stock and see's no tracks, the most car would see in the next 2 yrs would probably be stg 2+ if that. Would OEM Rotors + OEM pads be sufficient? or should i upgrade pads? Below is listing i found with some different pads options.
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3) Car is currently a 47.5k miles with oem brakes, should i just replace rears as well? even though dealer did not recommend?
4) SS Brake Lines, should i get them?
I replaced the front pads on my 2011 sonata with ones I purchased at an O'reilly's auto parts store about 11,000 miles ago. They did squeak initially after swapping but I thought that would go away eventually, nope it still makes that squeak/screech during dry/hot weather. Not all the time though, its mainly when coming to a stop over a long distance (slowly). I drive mostly highway miles. Will replacing them with OEM pads fix the issue?
View 7 RepliesReplacing remaining three calipers on my 2006 F-350 2wd as a preventative measure after I had a drag on the left front. Passenger side front being difficult. Caliper won't slide off pads. I believe pins are stuck but it doesn't seem they've got the caliper stuck - appears that I can't get pistons to stay compressed enough to clear pads. Caliper has some wiggle on pads - just not enough.
I tried multiple C-clamp iterations but can't get there just yet. I'd rather not fool with the bracket and removal won't fix my problem, just allow me to work it on the bench. I do have a replacement caliper, so damaging it to get it off is an option. I have sprayed Kroil into the piston seals in a Hail Mary when I pick this up tomorrow.
Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
View 5 RepliesI've had a clinking sound at the front of my car when driving over sharp bumps like seams or cracks ever since about 6k miles. I only notice it with the windows down. I used to think that it was the coils on my Nuespeed sport springs hitting each other, but after I got coilovers and the noise didn't change I was sure that it wasn't the springs. When talking to my mechanic on the phone he suggested that I see if the problem goes away if I apply the brakes when driving over something that causes the noise, and sure enough the noise isn't there when braking.
View 1 RepliesGot my first CEL at just under 40K miles. P4023, Redundant temp sensor range, so looks like I get a new DEF tank sensor. Of course they are on national back-order still. One would have thought that Ford would finally have these in stock but no.....
View 8 RepliesI've owned my '04 echo since new. It now has 172,000 km on it. It still has the factory original shocks and struts in it. Surely its time to replace them. I've never owned a car that used struts before. Now I have read here before if they aren't leaking then they are ok.
I guess I could do the old shock test of bouncing the car up and down and see how many times the car bounces after you stop pushing up and down on the fenders. The car just seems to ride harsher over the bumps in the road now.
I had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.
My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.
My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?
I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?
I bought a 2004 E350 van that has been driven 9000 miles in the past 6 years. Replacing a thermostat in an E350 6.0 Powerstroke van?
My van is running on the cold side ECT 176-180 when idling. It will reach 190 when I am driving. The EOT is 6-10 degrees higher.
I am flushing the system with Restore and plan to replace the T-stat soon when it arrives from Amazon. I have 3 gallons Cat ECT-1 full strength coolant and a lot of distilled and reverse osmosis water for the flush.
Is it a long procedure? There is not much room in a van to work with ease. If it's too involved, I will find some over time at work and pay my mechanic to do the install.
Wanted to replace my front headlights on the '06 with the PIAA Extreme White bulbs.
Before I ordered them I looked to see how easy the bulbs were to access...
Looks like its a bear to access. Is there a video??
As a side note I already have the Brite Box installed, which I really like
I have a 2012 F250 6.7L with about 62,000 miles on it. I purchased this truck new in October 2013. I had my first check engine light last Friday. I scanned it and it was a P20BD (Reductant Heater "B" Control Circuit/Open) is what I found when I searched for it. I had the truck in on Tuesday to the dealer. They are telling me it is the Reductant Pressure Line and the repair will be $690. They didn't have the part so I picked up my truck and have an appointment scheduled for Monday.
Since picking the truck the check engine light hasn't returned. I find this odd and it makes me wonder if they are correct or not in their diagnostics.
The other question I have is isn't the DEF system part of the emissions system? If so why isn't it covered under the emissions system warranty until 80,000 miles or 5 years?
Well so far I have had this truck for 5 years and I'm going for the third set of tires. So far I have run Nitto terra grapplers, and currently BFG at ko's. Both sets wore out around the 20,000-mile mark, they both wore very evenly, rotated every 6,000 miles, properly inflated, check the lineup at 2 different reputable shops.is it something about the 275-65-20s that make them wear faster? I really don't need an at tire as I don't go off road that much so I'm thinking of a good all season radial.
View 14 RepliesFan Clutch went out today 47,000 miles.
View 5 Replies