Has actually removed the block plug (from where ever it is) and installed a heating rod...I'm fairly mechanical, just not sure of the steps or tools needed.
View 14 RepliesI'm really struggling to get this sucker off my 2014 6.7 F350
it says in the ford manual to lift the plastic tabs then pull off, I did that easily with 3 on each side, but the end plug on each side (the one closest to the windshield) does not seem to have a liftable tab (it looks different to the others as its at the end of the cable)
I've almost broken it but not quite, its over $300 for new harness, ouch
I do have the odd little hook tool they sell for this, it worked with the other 3 for sure, but I've spent ages on the 4th on each side and cannot budge either of them
Doing oil cooler. Block heater plug is very tight. Is it reversed threaten?
View 1 Repliesmy egr delete j pipe orings give me trouble and i replaced but broke a bolt, now i think that big donut oring is leaking, i was reading you can put a 3/4 freeze plug in to eliminate any coolant into the intake, where does the freeze plug go,front cover or intake and does coolant still pass thru the j pipe?
View 7 RepliesSeen a coolant leak near the back of the block? I did an oil change and noticed coolant on the bell housing.
View 7 RepliesI didn't have time to trouble shoot but heres my problem. I plugged my 2016 6.7L in last night and when I checked it this morning the block was still ice cold. I didn't have time to investigate but i did make sure i had power up to the truck. And i noticed there's a connector just after the truck plug as well.
View 14 Replies2011 F-250 6.7
H&S Mini Maxx
Fully Deleted
What is going on with my tranny. I purchased my truck back in August with only 14k miles on it. It was a weekend camper hauler for the previous owner who drove very little. He bought it brand new and had it fully deleted with the mini maxx put in right away. I bought it in that current condition. Since buying it I have used it as a daily driver. Current mileage is 21k.
About 2 weeks ago I did 2 things. First, I decided to update my mini maxx from H&S's website to make it current as I was having a really firm shift from 2-3 gear. This is a know issue with my year truck due to a solenoid issue and I figured a more up to date tune might work. Second thing I did was tow for the first time since getting it. I towed an open bed car hauler with an SUV on it down the highway for about 150 miles. Prob about 7k#s. While on this trip I noticed my tranny temp go up to 235 degrees. When I reached my destination I parked the truck and stayed the night and returned back down the highway unloaded not towing anything and it still went back to 235. Trip was on the highway and is mostly flat with very few hills.
I monitor all gauges religiously and know my trans has never even gotten close to 200 before. My oil and coolant were both running in their normal mid to high 190 range and everything else appeared normal about the truck. I have talked to several diesel performance shops and received multiple ideas about what it might be. All seem to be in agreement that it is not my tuner as no one else that I can find has had this issue with their mini maxx after updating.
What is wrong range from the solenoid issue making the gears slip causing additional heat.... to my thermostat in the coolant valve having gone bad. I have had it in the local Ford dealership all week and they are completely clueless. They claim that everything they can check with their computer for flow and whatnot is functioning perfectly fine. They also claim that at 235 it is not out of spec according to Ford and that Ford doesn't consider this temperature to even be an issue or something that needs to be fixed.
Does the block heater come with some kind of a cord? I found the Box Link stuff under the back seat finally, the dealer said the block heater should be under there too? But it aint there?
View 6 RepliesDon't drive the truck but once a week but since its gotten colder here than usual is been harder to start when cold. Of-course I go thru the glow plug wait and then it kinda stumbles when its about to start. I do it again and most of the time is starts but seems rough for a few seconds. Once the truck is warm, no more problems starting.
I'm wondering if I have a glow plug gone bad and that cylinder is not warming up for me. Today I plugged in the block heater for maybe 2 hours and it started first time. Also, if just leave the block heater plugged in for long periods of time.. would it get to hot?? and wonder how expensive that is, most heater are costly to run. I have a timer but just wondering.
Well, I swapped a 2011 F250 SC for an F350 CC and I really enjoy driving it. 300 miles on the clock. My old 250 had the block heater and the pigtail to plug it in was low in front of the radiator. This truck also has the block heater, but I cannot find the pigtail to plug it in. In 2016 where Ford hid it at?
View 14 RepliesOk, is it possible to blow a fuze if the block heater is still plugged in when starting? Almost did this the other day and wondered if its possible to cause a short or something.
View 6 RepliesWhat the coolant temp should be around after plugging in the block heater overnight? Not looking for an exact measurement since this can be affected by OAT and the length of time it has been plugged in. But when it's -15 to -20F this weekend I was wondering what to expect.
View 13 RepliesI am doing heads studs and gaskets on the truck. I forgot to remove the stand pipe and started to lift the head off the truck with the engine jack. Well i bent the stand pipe and the port to the bock was a little loose. Tightened it back down and it seems ok. Could I have damaged anything by doing that? how is that all connected to the high pressure oil pump? I just want to make sure i didnt damage anything by doing that and since im already here I would rather make a fix instead of needed to tear down again.
View 5 RepliesI have a "VAN" Ford E350 and I need to check push rod on cylinder 1 and 5 left bank, how to do this?
Is ok if I remove the ARP head stup then check push rod and then re torque the head stud?
Full Story here : [URL] ....
Over the weekend I replaced the passenger side up pipe with one that doesn't have a spot for the EGR cooler. After putting the turbo back in it has a pretty bad exhaust leak. Sounds like it is on the drivers side somewhere near the Y pipe. When replacing the passenger up pipe I didn't loosen any manifold bolts or anything and I am thinking that the Y pipe is out of alignment with the turbo. What is the proper procedure to loosen everything up and get it aligned on the turbo? My guess is remove turbo, loosen drivers side manifold, loosen passenger side manifold, loosen passenger up pipe and tighten it again now that everything isn't under tension, install turbo and clamp to Y pipe, tighten manifolds. Is that the right idea?
View 8 RepliesAfter installing a new oil cooler my 6.0 will not crank over and I have no injector noise or communication with my scanner , that is until I unplug the center connector to the PCM then injectors come on and engine cranks and pcm communicates with the scanner....
View 3 Replies06 6.0 How do I remove the trans cooler lines from under the truck? I've got the lines hanging free they're unscrewed from the transmission and trans filter but I can't seem to snake them out to replace them. How is this accomplished?
View 7 RepliesOk yesterday while driving my truck the glow plug light came on couple times and lost power but the light would turn off and power came back. It has done this before and it was the injector harness grounding out on the engine. I replaced that last time. I checked over the knew one and did not see any chaffing on the harness.
Now this morning I go outside to start it and I can hear my fuel pump and vacuum pump but injectors wouldn't cycle. It has also done this before but I could never figure out why. Last time I tore into it checking through my wiring harness and couldn't find anything. When I put it back together it started fine.
It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
I have to replace the #6 glow plug. I confirmed it is bad and the harnes broke when trying to reove it with the proper tool. I ordered a new glow plug, ZD13, and a new drivers side harness.
I have never replaced a glow plug before but it seems pretty straight forward. I watched some youtube videos and did some reading.
I have read some state that you have to loosen the glow plug with a 10mm socket and then take some tubing and push it onto the glow plug to finish loosening it and prevent it from falling into the cylinder. I have read people saying it took them hours with a magnet to get the plug out of the cylinder.
If the plug is threaded and is removed from the threads how is it possible for it to fall past the threads into the cylinder?
Anything special I need to know? Anti-seize on the threads and dielectric grease on the connection? What the torque spec is?
Hooked up to a bumper hitch trailer tonight with my 13 F350 and didn't have any lights but the brakes worked. Tested the bumper hitch trailer connector and there was no power on any terminals, with the tester still connected to the same ground I checked the trailer connection in my bed for my gooseneck trailers and everything was working. Just to check the trailer I hooked up my wife's 2015 F150 and all the lights worked. Can't figure out why my gooseneck connection works but not my bumper connector, also looks like my license plate lights are not working either.
View 14 Replies