Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Remove DEF System Only Without Tuning?
Aug 20, 2012
After all this time there's only a couple things about my 2012 6.7 I don't like, and one of them is the DEF system. I like the lack of smoke, and I REALLY like my warranty, but I don't like the acrid DEF exhaust smell and I don't like the amount of DEF fluid I'm going through.
So, looking for a kit to remove the DEF system but leave the truck otherwise untouched? I'd like to keep the DPF and not have to tune the truck, just eliminate the DEF and smell diesel fumes again.
I'm guessing this is a long shot given the amount of computer control of every aspect of the truck, but figured I'd ask anyway...
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Sunday I received the dreaded DEF system fault message on my 2012 CC SRW SB FX4 with 7800 miles on it. Warned me that speed will be reduced to 50 MPH in 50 miles. I have a CTS Insight, so I checked for DTC's. First one was P2200 - NOx sensor circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1), the second one was P204F - Reductant system performance (Bank 1).
After 50 miles it warned me that speed would be reduced to 50 MPH on next restart. Sure enough, Monday morning speed was limited to 50. I took it to the dealer, but I should have left it running. When the service guy started it, the fault had cleared and it no longer showed the P2200 NOx sensor code, although the P204f code was still there.
My question is, why in the world would Ford make it so that the code is cleared if the fault goes away, especially after putting you through the 50 MPH limit scenario?
Dealer did a reflash and said its OK now, but I'm not so sure. My trucks build date is 10/6/11. I read TSB 11-11-13 which states the NOx sensor module should be replaced for P2200 on trucks built before 10/11/11. Is that only for a persistent P2200?
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I'm replacing my water pump and was wondering how to remove this.
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Is there an easy How To write up on how to remove the front grill? I want to install some grill inserts I picked up.
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How do you remove the chrome piece around the cup holders? I want to plasti-dip it so it quits shining in my eyes.
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I've been searching for instructions/procedure on how to remove the instrument cluster on my 2006 6.0 Superduty. My odometer has been showing the classic signs of a cold solder joint, cutting in and out constantly. It's been doing this for a couple of years, and I've taken it to the dealership, since it's still under warranty, however they were not able to find the problem since they were not able to witness the lighting go off and on. I figured I'd just do it myself and not even bother with the dealership if I don't have to. I've read the threads on how to fix the issue, however, everything I've found is for 2004 or older models. Are there any threads specific to the 2006? Or, is the instrument cluster on the 2006 the same as another year model? Maybe I can find this info. there.
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I'm sure I could start tugging on it and the clips would show themselves, but I'd rather not break any unseen clips or screw points. Is there a picture aided how-to for the removal of the drivers side of a dash on a 2012 f250? My tuner comes today and I'd prefer a clean install.
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Tried to remove my rear interior light assembly up on the headliner but just couldn't figure it out. I can pry the clear lens off pretty easy but I want to remove the whole assembly from the headliner so I can put some sound deadner behind it because ever since I upgraded my sound system it rattles like crazy and is driving me nuts. I know guys have dropped the whole headliner to dynamat or sound proof it so someone's gotta know.
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getting ready to do a cooling system flush per the instructions Cheezit posted a while back, which say "refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section." I think I can figure out the drain and fill but how do you bleed the system?
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So you can see from the photo my AC condensor is pretty well f'd. My AC guy at work says I prolly wont be able to straighten the fins back out. My ac in the truck works when it wants to. At idle pretty well but driving it warms up. Sometimes works great, usually when its cold out. I'm sure this mangled mess isn't working. My question is, replace just yhe condenser or so compressor and accumulator at the same time? I don't know what is actually wrong with the system and don't "want" to spend the extra $ on the other items if I dont need them. But I kinda feel like I might as well.
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My check engine light just came on and a few miles later the "exhaust fluid system fault" also came on. I plugged in my scanner and these codes came up:
P2479 b1s2
P2033 b1s2
P050E
P0231 b1s2
I'm assuming these mean bank one sensor 2 is bad. Need to verify? I don't remember all these codes when the #4 sensor went bad.
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I just did a pressure check on the cooling system on my 04 6 liter. It reached 16lbs towing an enclosed trailer and into a strong head wind. I was just wondering what's the Normal pressure suppose to be, or is there a Normal pressure. I'm using the new style cap with the larger spring in it and it didn't kick any coolant out.
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Where the air intake for the cabin air conditioning system is? The past several trucks I've owned had a cabin air filter which I replaced annually. They get filthy and I can see why this dirt should not get into the evaporator coil. It will reduce air flow and here in Texas we need all the air flow we can get (106 today). It shouldn't be too hard to improvise a filter to wrap over the intake (for a cheap fix).
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I had a ford technician plug in and check my CEL. Says P246E, Bank 1 sensor 4, exhaust system fault. I am leaving for holidays in a couple of days but dealer to busy before I leave. Is this something that will leave a guy stranded on the side of the road? I've already been towed once...
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My friend has a 2006 6.0. Blew up the egr cooler and oil cooler and now the oil is full of coolant. Brown muddy messy muck. Oil cooler is out but I'm sure the coolant oil mixture has circulated so it's probably in the HPOP and the rails to the injectors and probably in the injectors too. Everything after the oil cooler is probably contaminated.
So, aside from draining the oil from the pan and sucking up the oil mix from the top of the block, (under the cooler. ..it's out but not the hpop) how do we get this flushed out without destroying anything else?
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So a little back story. Did the oil cooler a couple of years ago as the deltas were getting high. Coolant flush and new Ford gold. Also welded EGR shut and had PHP reprogram. That was approx 25k miles ago.
Well now I have to fix the EGR because it won't pass smog. But my truck is running hot again BUT only when climbing a grade while towing my toy hauler. As soon as I crest the Temps come down fast. Also my deltas are fine normal driving, which was not the case last time I did oil cooler. My deltas were off all the time.
Also when I shut the truck off and stand in front of it after driving I can hear the coolant system gurgling.
I will be tearing my truck apart next week to fix the EGR and was thinking of doing the oIL cooler but don't want to waste money if that is not the issue. How do you tell if the water pump is bad? Also the fan is working according to scan gauge but doesn't have the big whoosh and squeal like it used to.
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I own a 2011 f350 diesel. So 2 weekends ago when it iced over in DFW I ended up doing a bunch of driving in 4wd. I pulled out a couple people, even pull out a semi.
After this the truck went on the fritz and gave me a CEL regarding the tcm losing communication with the rest of the electrical system. The truck was stuck in 6th gear and all things related to the tcm gear indicator didn't work. (remote start, backup camera, traction control, stability control and trans temp gauge). I did have drivability issues with the trans when it would sometimes bang gears when i would get on it suddenly and it could get generally confused at times, so generally I drove it pretty gently. The truck had to be towed to the dealer because after a while it would only get neutral of 1st gear and obviously it shouldnt be driven like that. They replaced the tcm under warranty.
The kicker is that all of that trans bs is now gone, there's no more confusion and gear banging.. drivability improved 10 fold. Obviously they updated the software but i was wondering if that was all that was needed to get this trans in gear? (pun intended) maybe they did something else?
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Installing the diesel site fuel filter / water separator system for our 6.7's . And If so how do you like it. and your pro's and con's besides price.
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My question is can a cracked injector tip let gases back in the fuel system?
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2014 F250 Diesel... I got the msg saying 50 miles until speed limited to 50 mph. None of the earlier warnings re adding def. check def on computer and it said it was ok. I even added def and it only took a small amount until it overflowed. It was more than 1/2 full. The error message did not reset. I drove it around for several miles and it still would not reset. Having it services as we speak, and the tech is still having difficulty running down the cause. He has done a regen,and reset the computer and etc and still has not resolved the issue..
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I bought my 2015 F250 last November, and this spring my check engine light comes on with the message exhaust system fluid fault with the anoyying speed limitation. Bring the truck back to the dealer and they just say add def fluid, so I just have them do it. 2 weeks later the message comes back, bring it back to the dealer and they tell me it "needs reprograming" they do the work, light goes off. two weeks later light comes on again. Dealer puts in new exhaust sensors and reprograms the truck.
This fix lasts a few months in the mean time the truck shutters really bad under regeneration mode. Talk to dealer they claim its normal. Finally this week the light comes back on again. Bring the truck to the dealer and Ford keeps telling them that it only needs reprograming but that doesn't fix the problem. The dealer wants to replace the computer but ford isn't letting them do it (the truck is still under warranty) . I am starting to get pretty mad when I went out and bout a 65k truck not to have these problems.
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