Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Remote Access Installed - Error Code 00011000?
Sep 28, 2014
I've had the Ford Remote Access installed on my pickup for over a year now and it's worked great up until about a week ago when I changed cell phone providers from AT&T to Verizon. Now when trying to use the app I get the error code 00011000. I up-dated the app to reflect the new carrier but it still doesn't work. And yes, my subscription to the service is current. What I need to do to get this working again, with winter just around the corner I'd sure like to have this functional again. I figured I'd give the forum a shot before I resort going to the dealer.
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I've had the Ford Remote Access installed on my pickup for over a year now and it's worked great up until about a week ago when I changed cell phone providers from AT&T to Verizon. Now when trying to use the app I get the error code 00011000. I up-dated the app to reflect the new carrier but it still doesn't work. And yes, my subscription to the service is current. What I need to do to get this working again, with winter just around the corner I'd sure like to have this functional again. I figured I'd give the forum a shot before I resort going to the dealer.
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My CEL is on and I pulled this code...I made the mistake of using a Hypertech programmer and the code came on soon after. I do have a stock code I saved from my SCT, would it fix it if I put it back in?
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2015 with 35,200K on the OD. All stock! Hasn't been modded in any way.
I've been throwing a P04DB ,only, code off and on for awhile now. And now, it's constant. I know there is a couple of other codes that can go along with this but I'm not getting them.
I've somewhat started tracking when the code would return after clearing it. In the last 2 days, I've cycled the engine on and off with the key only and no code.
It appears, that the only time the P04DB code sets is when I use the remote start. I'm still testing this theory but so far that's what seems to be happening.
I'm wondering if there is a slight voltage change when using the remote start that is causing this issue? I've read where this issue is not only a 6.7 issue or even just limited to Ford.
The other thing that really sucks about this issue is if the sensor is bad you just can't get a new sensor, you have to buy the whole crank case vent filter housing too. Brilliant I say, just brilliant.
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6.0 diesel 83,000 miles. My CEL is always on and my Edge gauge says it's lower than expected Mass air flow. I've changed the filter, cleaned the MAF with special cleaner and then replaced with new. I've replaced the EGR valve.
If I clear the codes and run it I don't get a CEL until I turn it off. But the next time I start it, there it is again. My Edge reads 0.0-0.3 MAF while running but what that means. One end of my cleaner box is slightly warped but I can't feel any noticeable leakage.
Everything runs fine but I would like to regain the ability to have that idiot light available to tell me if I have a new problem.
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I just did a test drive with my 04 6 liter, I did the stealth egr delete. I had a P0400 error code any concern?
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How do you access the tire air valves on the DRW, the inside tire valve? I can't get my air guage or my compressor air filling connection on the inside tire.
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Crew cab, have easy access to the under rear seat storage area to grab a few quick measurement? I need to know the entire length (side to side) and width at the widest points as well as depth.
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getting weak spray/dribble (yea, it could be a "personal problem " on the drivers side squirter. Left side great. I have replaced both squirters and blew out the line where it T's over to the drivers side.
Still weak.. I'm thinking its most likely low pressure coming off the pump and maybe it's time to replace I haven't crawled under there to inspect placement of pump. Thought while there I would also replace the reservoir.
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So just got a new pcm installed since i fried the last one anyway. I had a new trans installed almost two weeks ago factory 4r100 now i have a p0720 code. Id take it back to that dealer.
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Long story short: Got EGR Cooler and Oil cooler installed last week. New headgaskets and bolts. New down pipe. New orings on injectors. HPOP was installed 3 months ago before any of the above work.
Truck drove great for about 100 miles. Then stalled at a stop light. Restarted it. Drove another 10 miles. Truck then dies on me at 25mph. Wouldn't restart immediately. 10 minutes later it started. I drove it back home (couple miles). When i hit the last stop light, the idle immediately changed to crap. Very rough. Got home and parked it and since then I have not been able to start it.
I changed the EGR Valve, tried to start it and it wouldn't. Changed IPR Valve. Put all back together. No start. Cranked beautifully. But doesn't sound like it's taking fuel. note - no buzz/clicking from injectors and no fuel pump noise.
Here are my readings. FICM Sync - 1. I am stumped. I did recommended KOEO, checked emergency fuel switch reset, batteries are at 13.5 avg, checked harness wires and found one connector that wasn't snapped in cause the retaining clips were broken. Getting this connector replaced. Found another wire below chaffed. It is on the intake manifold. what is it for and could this be my problem? Pic below? This is where it connects to intake chaffed. The top of the two wires where they go into the connector were twisted around each other. Maybe wire to wire, maybe not. Would this cause my injectors to not buzz or fuel pump to not come on???
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My mechanic put a used 2005 PMC in my 2004 powerstroke. Now tachometer does not work, trans and coolant temp guages don't work and drives as if it is stuck in 3rd. gear. Does it need flashed @ a ford dealer to sync the two together?
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I installed a sct tuner on my truck and used the default street flash and my #3 injector promptly took a dump. Will a tuner kill injectors?
I just finished up oil cooler rebuild studs, blue spring and egr delete.
Now it looks like i have more injectors going bad.
I have 147,000 miles on the truck.
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Installed a 20'' light bar on my 2012 and when I turn on the Aux 1 uplifter switch my radio stations have static. This was not the case before the install. I have the hot wire tied into the Aux 1 (25amp) switch. Ground is run to drivers side battery ground. Do I need some kind of relay in line?
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I towed my 32 ft/ 600lb travel trailer 115 miles into arkansas today. When I arrived at the campground, the engine was running rough and shaking the vehicle. I saw highs of 175 (trans temp) 1150 (EGT), 214 (ECT), and 224 (EOT).
I recently installed the canned trans tune from my new SCT X4.
I pulled codes (none), checked cylinder misfire count on scangauge 2 (none). In fact, all gauges on the SG2 were within spec. I popped the hood and let it idle for 15 mins. Temps all dropped down to what I usually see after normal driving (not towing).
The engine did start to calm down as it cooled, but still sounded a rough
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I installed the Roll X on my truck on the 27th of June. On several occasions I have found one corner has come unlatched. I'm not sure if it is from the bed flexing when I go over a bump or what?
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I'll preface by saying, my technical know how ends with swapping out lights. I'm sure this is an easy fix, but not sure where to look first. I recently got a pair of smoked out taillights and 3rd brake light and installed the tails..................easy job. Finally climbed up on the back to swap out the 3rd.............lights worked before I disconnected. Connected the new one, no go, so figured, I bet bulbs are out. Plugged original back in, no lights. Figuring I tripped a fuse somewhere.................any tips finding the right fuse?
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I just bought the batteries I was asking about in this posting. Bought them at auto zone on my lunch hour today, they swapped them out right there in the lot, no problems. Watched carefully to make sure terminals were not crossed, etc. When I came out of work a few hours later, the #20 fuse for door locks was blown. I chalked it up to the battery change, and put a new fuse back when I got home. I come out an hour later to leave, and the fuse is blown again. I have not replaced it again, need to go get more of the proper amp rating.
No other changes to the truck other than the battery replacement. And that's the only anomaly. No other problems, nothing. Getting ready to head cross-country on a skiing trip, this Friday, so there really is no time to get to the dealer to get this looked at.
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My key fob remotes decided to quit working today, both of them simultaneously. which I thought was weird but I went ahead and put new batteries in both of them and they still don't work. I did a little research and figured out how to do the on off key thing 8 times to reprogram the key. I was able to get the truck to enter the programming mode, but when pressing the lock button on the fobs while in programming mode nothing happened with either key. my truck is a 2011 6.7 liter lariat.
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I have 2 fully functioning keys but I am looking at trying to program a miscut key I got for my truck just for the fob. What Id like to do is basically leave my key in the ignition and have a FOB with the actual key cut off so it is only the head containing the fob. I can remote start the truck, unlock the doors and then get in a use the key in the ignition as normal. I just hate the hugs key on my key ring. Is there a way to program the key fob, not the PATS key. Its miscut so thats not an option.
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Vehicle will not respond to anything. Remote key access wont work. No clicking or starter movement. No lights, radio, etc. Not the battery.
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