Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Rear Main Seal Leaking Where Engine Connects To The Transmission
Nov 5, 2014
I haven't had time to take my truck to the dealer to actually be checked yet but it appears I might have a rear main seal going out from what I can see. I pressure washed the whole underside of my truck the other day and there is fresh oil where the engine connects to the transmission.
My truck is a 2011 with a 2013 engine in it. The truck has 103,900 miles on it. The engine has almost 60,000 miles on it. I have the extended warranty on it which is good. All this truck has to do is last 2 more lousy months and I'll replace it.
2011 Ford F-450 6.7L Diesel 12' Flatbed
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2011 F-350 CC, 45k miles... Found out yesterday mine is leaking. Way to early for these issues to pop up.
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I am tearing down my junkyard engine to prep it to put into my truck and I came across this on the rear main seal... is this a wear ring?
It kinda looks like a oil slinger. My new seal is on the way so I have nothing to compare it to.
I don't want to be yanking on it if it's supposed to stay.
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Took the torque converter cover off and this is what I see. Before I took it off the cover looked oily. Prev I replaced the EGR valve and some other sensors and there was oil on top of the engine. Does this look like a rear main seal or oil dripping from the top of the engine?
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Last year, I had the unfortunate experience of having to get my engine replaced on a 2003 Infiniti G35 (only 121k miles, I got it used in '06, long story, I assume previous owner didn't take very good care of it). I opted to have a local mechanic find a used engine instead of paying for a rebuilt one and he was able to find one that had ~60k miles on it so I went with it. Now it's 9 months later and I have started noticing a burning oil smell while sitting in the car at a stop. I took it into a shop (not the one that replaced the engine, different tire and lube shop) and they found that the rear main seal was leaking pretty badly and that's where the smell was coming from. They don't do that kind of work so I need to take it somewhere else to get any repair done.
I feel like, if a second diagnosis also says RMS is the problem, that the shop that put in the engine should have given me a new RMS when they put in the used engine. Is it not something that would be visible and thus easily replaced when installing the new engine? If they did in fact replace it, it wouldn't possibly have failed on its own after only 8 or 9k miles, would it? I don't normally hearing about RMS problems until cars are well over 100k miles.
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Changing out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
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Newly acquired 2011 Santa Fe GL. Recently had a 2008 Azera GLS.
We received the Santa Fe a week ago and have since put 600 km on her. I took her into my work (auto mechanic) to wash and wax, looked underneath the engine and noticed 2 drops of what appeared to be engine oil. Between the transmission and engine block there are 2 10mm vertical bolts. The drops of oil have accumulated on the head of the bolts. There is a small "plate" between trans and engine with oil "weepage". My guess is the engine rear main seal is leaking! Not a small repair and certainly at 600 km.
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I was getting ready to replace the carrier bearing and noticed the rear pinion seal is leaking. Before attempting the replacement myself, I would like some opinions on the noise in the video below. Is this normal? I am confidant I can replace the carrier bearing and pinion seal, but not sure I have the tools for anything else.
YouTube ...
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My daughter has a 2000 intrepid with i believe a 2.7 engine. the rear main seal is leaking.
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Took my 2014 GX in for 5k miles service even though it has only 1K miles (bought it in Nov 13). The service write up person recommended oil change (10K service). I was cool with that because I still believe in first oil change in 1K miles when the car is new regardless of what car manufacturer says.
After 1 hr waiting, the shop manager told me that my GX needs to stay longer because they discovered a small leak in rear main seal. From what I read on the internet, it is a time consuming repair.
I don't drive the car much, 1k miles in 7 month. It is parked indoor most of the time. I do drive it 5-10 miles every 2-3 wks to cycle the car. I also use battery tender to keep the battery charged.
I was surprised that this happened. My friend's 2014 GX (he bought it because I told him Lexus is much more reliable than his LR3) had his back up camera replaced at 3K miles.
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Couple weeks ago found some oil drops in the drive way so I got Underneath to see this disappointment. Hope the pictures come through for you all to see. She's been in the shop since Monday.
front crank case seal gone bad! what a mess.
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I took the front axle shafts out a couple months back and remember NOT seeing any differential fluid in the axle shaft housing. But then when I took the tire off tonight.. I noticed diff fluid leaking from from the axle shaft dust seal ?
1. I didn't think diff fluid flowed up near those front dust seals ?
2. That's a brand new dust seal so I'm guessing some debri must be in the connection causing the leak ?
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I have a 2008 E450 with a 6.0 and 5w110 trans. It started to leak at the bell housing. I figured it might be the front tc seal so I dropped the trans and replaced the seal. Reinstalled trans but its still leaking from the junction of engine and trans and from where the starter goes into the trans.
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I spotted a leak last nite on my 6.0. It is coolant, running down the right rear on 2 metal lines that go to the trans I think. It was dark and 24 degrees so I did not spend too much time looking. Shut the mother down til I could research. 2004 250, 6.0 FX4x4, stock. Coolant was changed to green by previous owner. Bought it 4 months ago. 187,000 miles.....
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Had oil seal failure on the rear differential at 35,000 miles?
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Have a 2004 F350 dually diesel 6.0 - will now be replacing the passenger rear wheel seal for the third time in 8 months - replaced 12/2014 again in 6/2015 - took in for extensive engine pairs 7/8 got back 8/27 and have to replace the wheel seal again. Cannot figure out why blowing out so often - what to do to stop it from blowing out? Called the dealer and they were absolutely no support at all - mentioned something about a thicker seal?
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The engine runs beautifully, but we cannot stop an oil leak. The Machine Shop replaced the front and rear main crank seal three times and it is still leaking. We took the truck to Ford who put the dye in and checked for the leak with a black light.Their analysis was that they would START with the oil pan gasket. We then took that info to the Machine Shop who said they could see the oil leaking from the rear main and front seal again and replaced the seals in it again. There is still oil leaking from the engine. From the same place. Why we can't seem to stop the leak,and ultimately how to fix the problem?
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I have a 1995 Celica GT, 5sfe engine, 5 speed manual. Front main crank seal appears to be leaking. I've replaced transaxles before but no timing chains or oil seals. Is the access from the wheel well and fairly straightforward?
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I replaced the front mail seal on my 2003 Hyundai Elantra. It was running beautifully until I put it gear to take a test drive. It dumped half the oil in about a minute. After reading online that there may be a problem with the thrust bearings, I pulled the oil pan and found a thrust bearing in the pan. Is this something I could fix without pulling the engine. Every thing looks good and there are no metal shavings or signs of wear. The car has 170k.
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So I changed my fuel filters the other day.
All was tight and no leaks. Even ran the motor the customary few minutes and then went on an errand to lowes. So drove it a few miles. All good.
So just outside of town about 10 miles, third gear, up hill plenty of boost the inlet line on the filter let loose.
Sorta looked like I was driving on wet roads except I had all this smoke coming from the hood of the truck.
Pull over quickly so didn't loose much. That darn yellow quick connect had somehow worked itself loose.
Simple reconnect, check three times, wipe as much stuff up as I could and on my way again.
Not fun when trailer is in tow. So I suppose I lost a quart or two at most but enough to do some undercoating anyway.
Check those connections often.
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So, had a transmission fluid leak. Couldn't find the leak so I went to a transmission shop. The diagnosis is that a snap ring broke and resulted in a hole in my tranny, something about reverse gear pressures weakly designed snap ring.
Not too happy about this, being that I had thought that the transmission was the strong point of my truck... Is this common?
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