Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Radio Makes A Pop Noise Then Cuts Out?
Jan 8, 2015
Lately (within the last year) after about an hour in the truck my radio will make an electrical pop sounding noise and then the sound cuts out for about one second. The pop is not very loud. It will do this about every 15 seconds at first and then after ten or so minutes it's every 1-3 minutes. Doesn't matter the source, it does it on all of them. The volume is at normal (adult ) listening volumes. Interestingly the subwoofer does NOT cut out which points me towards the amp inside the radio. It also seems as if heat may be part of the issue as it takes a while before it happens. If I turn the radio off and wait 15 minutes and then turn it back on it will work for a few minutes and then start popping.
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I have a f350 6.7l powerstroke diesel. It has been shaking real bad sometimes to the point of going only 15-20mph. And sometimes while it shakes it makes a rattling noise in engine area. The weird thing is that it doesn't do it all the time. We have noticed it mostly when gas gets low.
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I have a 2013 that randomly stutters or cuts out for a second while accelerating. This happens whether I am slowly accelerating or full throttle. This used to happen once every few months but it is happening more frequently now. It will randomly happen while trying to accelerate on the freeway. The truck feels like it stalls, then takes off. It feels like it loses boost pressure so maybe a wastegate issue or possibly an EGR valve issue. No codes are set.
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I have a 2004 F250 4x4 with 204,000. runs great! But last year, I noticed the A/C would work fine to begin with, but after running down the road a bit, it would cut off and I would have to turn it off, let it "rest" a bit, then it may or may not come back on, now I am a electrician by trade, and I figure it is a bad switch somewhere, but a intermittent problem is heck to find sometimes!!!
I replaced the low pressure switch in the accumulator, then I was thinking the little wiring plug might be bad, so I replaced that but it's still doing it. I was going for the relay next, but I'm not sure which one it is and can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the system. I'm stumped on which way to go. Its full of 134a and will freeze you out--- when it works!!
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I have a plow truck that over heats and cuts off. And when it cuts off it won't start till next day? I know the plow has to be low this is not my first plow truck.
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Where the factory BT module is located? The other day while listening to music, I hit a bump and my bluetooth cut out, then came back about 5 minutes later. Almost as if it lost connection to the stereo then reconnected....wondering if something isn't connected securely...
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Just installed my SCT livewire TS. The truck runs good without a tune but it has egr delete so it had check engine light. So I put a performance tune with egr disabled so it cleared code. But I noticed at pretty heavy acceleration the fuel seems to cut out. Usually once boost builds. Does the same with the street tune.
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What are the odds that the fly wheel is ok and I just need to replace the starter? I can hear it engage the flywheel, it's making the zzzzzzzzzzz noise after it disengages the flywheel, can these starters be oiled or anything to prevent that noise?
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This truck isn't mine but it's an 05 F250 automatic. We just did oil cooler, STC, standpipes, dummy plugs, EGR delete, and cleaned the turbo. Truck starts perfectly and runs great 99% of the time. But after a high load throttle situation right when you let off the throttle the engine sounds and feels like it cuts out for a split second, then it comes back and everything is fine. It does it with stock tunes but it is more noticeable with his SCT tunes loaded. There are no codes being set. The weird thing is if your drive it relatively easily it never does it, and it never does it while it is actually under high load, at WOT it pulls like crazy until you let off a bit and then it happens.. It also doesn't do it every time but it is fairly often. It has edge insight with fuel pressure monitoring added, ICP doesn't drop out and neither does fuel pressure. What could cause it to do that?
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Having issues with their mirrors folding in? One of mine makes a popping sound and will not fold in or out. I can hear the motor running, sounds like a gear is out of alignment. Have tried to reposition manually with no luck. Is there a rebuild kit for the internals or will I need the entire mirror assembly?
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I have a 2004 F250. Owned it for a little less than 4 miles (186k on the odometer) .. The other day making a routine run and the radio goes out. Stopped to check it out and found I had no power windows either.
Made it home, checked the fuse on the radio and its good and the the power window fuse is also good. Put a meter on the terminals and have no voltage going to them. What I need to look at???
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I've got a KR with MyTouch Nav with a real annoying rattle behind the MyTouch stack right between the volume and the passenger's temp. Any pics or guidance on how to remove that grey trim piece so that I can get some felt or foam rubber back there?
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As the title says I'm driving down the road and the radio just turns itself off, If i hit the power it turns on but it's like a ghost hit turned it off.
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I have an 04 f350 and the other day the windows and radio quit all at once. Lots of people are having intermittent problems but mine went from being fine to nothing all at once. I tried the circuit breaker and the relay but nothing seems to fix it. What this is?
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I've had transmission issues with my truck that the dealers can't seem to duplicate. The truck makes a metal on metal screech when downshifting from 5th to 4th and 4th to 3rd on occasion. The two dealers claim they cannot duplicate the issue and there's no CEL so there's nothing they can do. The shifting is also super slow between gears and regularly hangs in 4th until I let off the pedal for a good two or three seconds. All gear changes are slow.
Now the truck is exhibiting a new issue. When coming to a stop, a second after stopping the truck faintly jerks forward. Almost like the torque converter is not fully unlocked.
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Installed a 20'' light bar on my 2012 and when I turn on the Aux 1 uplifter switch my radio stations have static. This was not the case before the install. I have the hot wire tied into the Aux 1 (25amp) switch. Ground is run to drivers side battery ground. Do I need some kind of relay in line?
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Getting ready to take my Truck in for the Radio turning offt. About half the time I start my truck the radio doesn't play sound, it's on but no sound. If I touch it or change the station then sound starts to come out, is this normal?
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2011 F-350 6.7L. Three years old. 60,000 miles. The lights and radio work, but she won't turn over. Tried a jump start from a car with no response from truck. Wrecker coming.
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Don't have a clue what's happening here or where to begin looking but about 20 seconds after cranking the truck ALL my instrument panel gauges go dead, radio goes dead (nothing on it's display) and my driver door controls all stop working simultaneously. Funny thing though, I can still see what the computer sees with my edge insight that's plugged into my OBD2 port and all those read as normal. The engine still runs and I can drive with no issues. My headlights still work fine as do all my signals.
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We just replaced an injector in my truck. Everything was fine, ran great, etc.
On the freeway home, the dash, windows, locks, radio all quit working. at first they'd stop and come back, stop and come back, etc. then finally they stopped. As I was getting off the nearest exit, the truck started dying on me. Once I got pulled over out of the way, it acted like the battery was completely dead.
After a few minutes of scratching my head and staring under the hood, I happened to look at the passenger side batter, and the crossover cable from the drivers side was broken off right at the terminal!! We must have broke it off while doing the injector. as I look closer at it, it had been broken before. Some idiot before me had actually taken a broken crimp style terminal, shoved it and crimped it into a new one and called it good.
I was able to redneck it back together so i could finish the last couple miles home. I fixed it properly with a new crimp terminal, heat shrink, etc. Why did the engine die with the crossover connection broken? was it because the series was not complete, and all the electronics were running off the battery(s) and not the alternator? I'm really confused. I've heard of people only running one battery before.
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Issues with your sync/radio that in the lower right corner it says to "connection error-see delear"?
My controls on my steering wheel will no longer change the channel or adjust the volume. When it does change the channel it goes crazy and changes multiple channels.
I have also noticed my GPS arrow seems to drift off the road I'm traveling on and then will jump back to where I'm driving.
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