Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Radiator Removal To Repair Leak?
Mar 25, 2014
Removing the radiator on these trucks to repair the leak? It looks pretty straight forward. Remove the fluid, grill, hoses, and the few screws on each side that connect the other cooling coils to the main radiator. then hopefully it should slide straight up and out. A radiator shop said they would replace the gasket between the plastic end caps and the radiator if I take it to them. Which brings me to my next question. Is it the gasket that is causing this notorious leak or is it a crack somewhere or a loose crimp? Mine is leaking from the usual spot. Driver side on the bottom at the seam. Then runs down the frame to the ground.
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I thought I remember a posting about removing the radiator to do the cooler because it made it easier to work standing in the engine bay with the engine in front of you instead of leaning over and removing everything from outside ? I'm getting ready to do my 4th external oil cooler? And is it difficult to remove radiator, and/or worth removing it ?
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I was just outside and noticed a little puddle under the front of the truck. I crowled under her to find orange coolant on the seam of the radiater right above the drain. I thought maybe the drain was open a little but no, it was tight. I have 40000 miles on the truck.
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I am in the middle of a several thousand mile road trip, and I am with family in Utah when this evening I noticed a puddle under my 6.0 Excursion.
Coolant leak? - YouTube
The fluid does not smell like typical coolant, but from the location of the drip, I cant think of it being anything else.
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On Friday am I noticed a 6" sized puddle on the garage floor. Coolant leak on the drivers side coming off the frame. Dropped it off at the dealer on Sunday and today the tech tells me it was in fact a radiator leak and the new one will be here wed. They hope to have it buttoned late Wednesday. I am assuming all will be covered under warranty.
I have 23k miles logged and had just got home from a 1300 mile run pulling about 18k worth of hay and trailer. Truck performed flawlessly. Averaged 11mpg for the trip. I am hoping this is the first and last radiator replacement I have to go thru.
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Just had to replace radiator at 38k on my 2012 SD. Now I have another leak at 41k. Looks like it's wherever the lower radiator hose leads. Kind of a weird junction. I don't think it's coming from above there, but not sure. It's the primary dgas bottle that was low. The radiator was covered under my ESP. We'll have to see what's up with this one. Been eying a denim blue SD at dealer, thinking this is going to talk me out of it though. Not especially happy right now.
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My truck just passed the 3 year/36k by 2 days! I got it on 8/4/10 but it only has 27,000 miles of course I just found a puddle of coolant under the right front drivers side. After a little reading, I guess this is common. Should I push for Ford to fix it or get an extended warranty and turn it in on that or... Aftermarket yet that isn't half plastic like this stock POS?
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I have approximately 66,000 miles on my 2013 F250 truck and noticed a small drip from the front drivers side around 40,000 miles. That random drip is now a leak and the truck will be going into the shop to replace the Primary Radiator.
I absolutely love this truck, but what a disappointment that this isn't a recall. What scares me is that my buddy who has a 2014 F250 will be going in for his second primary radiator in 3 years of ownership.
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Do I have to remove my fuel filter and bowl to attempt a repair on my HPOP leak?
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So my dog was riding in the back seat of my 2011 SD with covers when he suddenly went nuts over seeing a bunch of Prong Horn running along the road and jumping a fence. It was pretty cool to see, but he scratched the heck out of the arm rests.
How the scratched dark grey color can be repaired? Everything about the truck has remained pretty pristine inside and out, but this is really bothering me and I can find no information.
I'd even consider recovering all 4 with some sort of kit, if available like they have for some dashes and interiors.
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When I dropped my 2 frame rail batteries I noticed the clamp on the positive battery cable was broke. How to splice in a new clamp?
Pick and pull is an option. I would rather repair my OEM cable and be done.
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2003 250 superduty 6.0 ... I had to do the icp sensor. I went in from the top and discovered that the oil cooler was failing also. Replaced the icp and the oil cooler. Got it all back together. It would crank but wouldn't fire up. it did try for a about a tenth of a second. that's as close to firing as it got. The shifter has been loose. i ran it through the gears and the back into park. now it won't even crank.
Took the starter in to have it tested. it tested fine. Went to put it back on the truck. With no real force tightening the electrical connection it just snapped off the solenoid. put a new solenoid on it. Still no crank. Checked all related fuses and relays. They all seem to be good.
When I turn the key to on I get the buzzing noise and everything. Been through a lot of the no start check list. I don't have the ability to quite test everything. But what i can check. i do have an obd2 scanner. I cleared the code for the icp. I don't have any other codes showing. I have tripled checked that. After the weekend I am going to have to give up and take it in I think.
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Lifting a crew cab on an 05 6.0 with out a shop lift? I'm going to replace the head gaskets and install studs. I have removed many regular cabs with a tractor front end loader and a 4x5 timber thru the windows.
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I posted about my steering issue and i went ahead and did the gear box and now on to the ujoints ...
HUB LOCK ASSEMBLY is in 2 i started to gently pry it out with a flat head in a star figure while jiggling and pulling the whole unit with my other hand well ...
The cover plate separated from the rest of the lock and I am lost ...
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What's the best way to remove front rotors from the hub without damaging them on my F350 4X4?
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2005 F350 6 liter.
AC compressor clutch was toast. Thought it was just the clutch. Started to notice the truck struggling to start, with some smoke on acceleration that was not present before.
Today, paid a guy to replace my AC compressor clutch. He called me out a bit ago to show me what he found.
Looks like it was not the actual clutch. Looks like the bearing on the pulley took a crap. Bearings got wedged between the face of the pulley and the clutch. Mangled up the compressor clutch coil as well. The actual pulley, snapped off the bearing part. Pulley was only held on by the center bolt on the clutch hub. So, long story short, the compressor is locked up. Have to replace it.
This guy tells me he cannot do it, because to remove the compressor ,the motor has to be unbolted from the motor mounts and raised. Is this true? I have a service manual, that does not say anything about that at all. It does indicate that the compressor has to be removed with the third bolt loosened but still in place.
Can I get some info on the removal of the AC compressor in this truck? The idler/tensioner pulley has already been removed. The fan shroud has been removed.
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I want to remove the 60% portion of the rear seat (seat and seatback) in order to make some room for my dog on a long trip this summer and I don't need him fighting with my daughter for space on the seat. Removing the actual seat back is easy enough, but I want to disconnect the middle seat belt at the bottom. It appears to click into the piece that attaches to the truck floor, but I can't figure out how to release it. There is a small hole in the "thingy" (yes, that's the technical term for it ) that I assume would be related to the belt release, but I can't seem to get it to release.
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I want to get rid of the stock exhaust and run a 4' or 5' exhaust all the way back. Will I still need to use DEF? Completely remove the whole system.
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, 211,000 miles and the third radiator that was put in this truck is leaking!! Has there been a recall This is not right. I haven't even had the truck five years and this will be over 5 grand in radiators. Is a person suppose to budget an extra grand a year if they want to own a ford diesel?
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How many of you put a screen in front of all your radiators to keep bugs and stuff from clogging them up? Is there much of an air flow restriction (from the screen)? It is about the first thing I always do when I get a new vehicle.
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Trying to replace my steering stabilizer and in the process I broke the nut close to the steering box. Would not budge so used a bar and well I broke it. Now I can't pop it out am I doing something wrong? Here are a few pics. I'm totally bummed nothing seems to be working for me.
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