Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: No Front Traction Happening?
Jul 21, 2003
Coming up the mountains here in Ca last night. Snowing and slippery. Put truck in 4x4 light came in saying engaged. Driving very slowly and almost slid off road with two kids and wife in car. Then noticed that there was no front traction happening. Locked hubs manually and all was ok. I think this is a serious problem. If in auto and dash confirms 4x4 engaged then it should be. I am just very lucky to not have seriously hurt my family or someone else. Is this a recall on Fords part I truly think they need to be held accountable if so.
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How to completely turn it off, I got nothing so far. I cant do it with my H&S, I have access to ford IDS which is also unable to turn it off. The only thing I have found to work is unplugging a wheel speed sensor, which sets off dash lights... Im thinking of finding a body control module without advancetrac.
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My right rear tire picked up a screw this evening heading back toward Seattle from Chelan. I put the spare on and continued on my way. I noticed for the first few miles the traction control warning light was on. It went off and stayed off until I stopped for fuel and again it came on for a few miles. I'm suspecting this is due to a slight diameter difference between the 20" wheels with the Michelins and the 18" spare. I really hope this didn't stress the differential (3.55 ELD). As I understand it, unless locked the ELD is open all the time..... I would assume Ford wouldn't equip the truck with an incompatibly sized spare......
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Does the traction control turn off and stay off when you push the button? I read an owners manual and the way it is written makes me wonder. It makes it sound like the traction control reengages when you put the truck in reverse. Even when you had it turned off.
What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?
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My 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
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I have 2 messages showing up in the message center / control panel. I have taken the truck to the dealership and we cannot recreate them while the truck is at the dealership. How it can be resolved.
2013 Ford Superduty Platinum : 33,800 miles and the truck is stock
Messages : service traction control / Downhill decent control fault
This will happen just driving down the road or just after starting the truck and taking off.
It has happened towing my work trailer and also not having the trailer connected to the truck.
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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I have a noise in the front end that is only happening during suspension travel. It is really bad on bumpy roads. I thought it was my sway-bar end links but they are a year old and tight. I have checked the shocks and they are tight. It sounds like a clunking noise. Could the front drive axles be making this noise while not locked in?
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Well about 4 days after my HPOP replacement, the ol Ford is at it again. Apparently, one of my power steering lines has been rubbing on the top of my driver side front shock mount. It let loose in a giant black plume of black smoke and grinding gears as I was pulling into the corner store. Limped her home and inspected it. From what I see, its not a terribly expensive hose and shouldn't be too terrible to replace. One thing after the other [URL] .....
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What's the best way to remove front rotors from the hub without damaging them on my F350 4X4?
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Bought this truck back in September. I thought the ball joints were going out. So decided to replace everything i would think of. The ball joints, hub bearings, all the tie rod end parts, sway bar links & bushings, and the seals around front u-joints. Now i still have the same rattle. Sounds like a piece of metal rattling in a tube. Really it sounds like the ball joints are out, which i know they are not. Also i greased them again (Just to make sure) and no change.
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My new truck has developed a squeak in the front suspension every time you go over little dips and bumps in the road.Which is all the time.
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Is there an easy How To write up on how to remove the front grill? I want to install some grill inserts I picked up.
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Since I bought my F350 last Jan. I have several times had prolonged instances of a severe grinding noise coming from the front end, seemingly the left side. At slow speed in a turn (shallow or steep) a horrible grinding sound is apparent as well as a vibration in the steering wheel. At 9k miles a dealer said it was the wheel bearings and replaced both sides. I now have 12.5K and it is worse than ever. My local dealer says it is normal but that has to be bull. It is is worse after I drop my fiver after towing. It is a 4x2 with the 6.7 diesel. I love the performance but this front end issue is a real problem.
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My Front axle wont go back in! It kinda was a pain to remove too; but getting it back in is like mission impossible! I've tried turning the driveshaft, the other wheel, all kinds of stuff short if beating it with a hammer.
In an hour or so I am going to take off the diff cover and see if there is anything obvious, Id rather not but... I took it apart due to noises I was hearing up front on that axle / hub. I have all new seals and such just in case anything needed it.
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I have noticed my truck makes a front end noise when I make turns, like from a main road to a side street. What seems to cause it is if there is a little dip or bump during the turn. The noise it makes sounds almost like a tire rubbing a splash guard or something. It comes from the drivers side. It he truck is stock with stock tires and wheels and has 4300 mi on it. I was maybe going to take it to the dealer...
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I recently replaced the front wheel hub and upper and lower ball joints on the the driver side of my 2004 f250 CC SB 6.0 fx4. Now when I put into 4 wheel drive I get a grinding noise that sounds like a worn out break pad from that side only. It didn't do it before and it only happens in 4x4. I have replaced the wheel hubs before and it was fine. Also The needle bearing race on the axle is good.
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How many of you put a screen in front of all your radiators to keep bugs and stuff from clogging them up? Is there much of an air flow restriction (from the screen)? It is about the first thing I always do when I get a new vehicle.
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So I have had this happen 3 times so far. As I am driving, and step on the accelerator, I get a very bad shudder in the engine. The whole front of the truck is jumping up and down. Once I slow down it stops and is fine.
It has happened on the following three occasions but it is intermittent and does not do it all the time:
1. driving up a long grade at 45 mph for 5 minutes. I stepped on the accelerator to speed up and it happened.
2. Getting on the highway from 45 to 70 fairly quickly.
3. Once I got on the throttle heavy and got up to 80 MPH. I laid off the throttle to slow down and when I stepped on the accelerator again it happened.
I was not towing at any of these times. I do have warranty still but since I cannot always replicate it, I have not taken it to the dealer yet.
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Fabricated own receiver hitch for the front? The ones available exit under the bumper and hang way to low, severely limiting approach angle.
I am planning on building one that exits through the large hole in the middle of the bumper, similar to the 99-07 style. I will use it for my custom generator mount and/or a small winch.
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I replaced all my shock and the last one front passenger side gave me fits. The lower mounting bolt stripped and I am unable to secure the shock. My question is..is it safe to drive around without the front shock to get over to the parts house? I plan to use back roads and low speeds. 20 mile round trip.
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