Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: No Crank / Start When Turn Key On - Trailer Brake Module Failure Flashes On Screen
Feb 14, 2014
Ok 2011 ford f350 6.7. Turn key on, no crank, no start. Trailer brake module failure flashes on the screen. If you leave the key on after 5 to 10 minutes the heater kicks on and you can start it. Runs down the road, hitting every pot hole for 1000 miles fine. Shut it off, try to immediately restart, same thing. If you hook up a booster box to it it starts. Replaced both batteries, cleaned cables. Scanned it, only codes are with the instrument panel : loss of communication with trailer brake module, with abs, with heat and air, and with parking aid modules. Tried to scan abs, parking aid, and brake, scanner would not communicate. When it is running communicates fine with them. Need a direction to go from here?
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I'm having some electronic problem with my 350. I parked it and took both batteries out for about a week. I put 2 brand new ones in and hooked them up truck won't start. So I turned key on and left on and the fault that comes up is the "trailer brake module fault" also the abs light, parking brake light & passenger airbag lights are on. Sometimes if I leave key on long enough the lights go away and I can start the truck. But it shuts down during idle. I unplugged the tbc (indash) and the #22 fuse under hood and #31# on passenger side. Still showing the fault. I'm not being allowed to start the truck. I used my tuner and found one code (P0884 tcm power input intermediate)..
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Brought my truck (2012 F350) for recall service for one of the faulty exhaust temperature sensors. It took them one week to replace the sensor (!), then when I came to pick it up I got: "Trailer Brake Module Fault" message on the display.
I have never seen this message, since I own the truck (I am original owner). The service adviser said it will take a minute to reprogram the module and took the truck back to the shop. Came back after a while, saying that it didn't work and I need to leave the truck, so another technician can work on it tomorrow. Tomorrow came and I got the call that they reprogrammed the module, but the message still shows up, so they need to work on it (another day!).
As of now they still don't know what is going on. Apparently they broke something while replacing the EGT sensor and how to fix it.
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While driving into work today I noticed that when I turn the exhaust brake on the light flashes 4 times and turns back off. This definitely does not seem normal but it is cold outside. Could it being 9* have anything to do with this?
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It just came on when I ran up to the gas station followed by the airbag light and the traction control light.. truck ran fine. I've tried looking this up found some people have had this message and there truck won't start.
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I have a 15 F350 DRW 6.7 pulling a 19K fiver with 8K axles and disc brakes, I have to have my brake controller set at 10 to get the brakes to work well. The pads are good, just bled the system using a power bleeder, controller is set to electric over hydraulic with max gain. Why I need to have the controller set to max?
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I still have my 2011 6.7 f350 CC. I have a triple axle (single wheel) gooseneck tilt deck trailer that I pull my older dozer and backhoe on.
With the trailer brake gain set to 10 I don't have as much brake engagement as I would like. It actually wont lock them up at all when adjusting the gain. Loaded I don't feel any engagement when manually sliding the controller.
On my sons 99 f350, with after market controller he can adjust his output so that the brakes engaugelock at just about any adjustment (way over breaking) so I believe the trailer brakes work fine, I just don't get enough output from the factory controller.
Is there any additional adjustments the factory controller has or any suggestions to increase the output more so the brakes have a bit more engagement?
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Last night I was heading home from a two day race and found that my turn signals wasn't working. the running lights are working and obviously i could feel the brakes working.
well i hooked up some jumpers to a 12v battery and the 7 pin and the lights work. to make 100% sure it works i hooked it up to my neighbors Tacoma. it all worked. well..........
On my last f150 when it was new this happened to me too. it ended up being the turn signal fuse on my truck.
I hooked right back to my truck again and just made sure my plug was all the way in and still nothing so i know its my truck side.
Now my last f150 owners manual had a section to where it told you what fuse is what and where. well i don't even see the f250 fuse box is and don't know which one it is to see if its blown.
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Love the turn signals of flashing 3 times if you just tap it. It will flash 5 times on the tap when you are pulling my rv. Is there a way to increase the number of flashes? Say 3 to 5 and 5 to 7. Couldn't find anything in the owners manual.
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My left turn signals have went out again on the rear of my truck and trailer. I replaced a body control module about three months ago and now its done it again. It has not blown any fuses. Why this is happening.
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I have an issue with my 2011 SD. When i press on the brake pedal I get a message saying I have a trailer connected and then when I step on the brake pedal again it says trailer disconnected. This happens every time I touch the brake pedal. I have replaced the trailer connector 7 way plug thinking that was the issue to no avail.
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A month ago I got into my truck in the morning and when I turned the key to Run everything lit up like normal and after the glow plugs warmed up, I turned the key and there was about a two second delay between me turning the key and the engine cranking over.
The next couple times I tried starting the truck that same morning I had to try to start it a couple times because it wouldn't try to crank over the first couple times but it would always eventually start.
It's been continuing to give me problems but never stopped running once it was started and then this morning I tried starting it for 45 minutes with no luck.
What I have tried so far is:
Resetting batteries
Jumping the truck
Checked to see if the starter is getting power. ( I put wire testers on it while someone else started and I didn't get a good reading even when it did start. New starter was put in 9 months ago.)
I also made sure wire going to starter wasn't corroded
Battery terminals are also not corroded
Checked fuses
Tried starting truck with fan clutch disconnected
Cussing at it
Tapping starter with a hammer while trying to start it
Also, everything sounds perfectly normal when I turn the key, it just doesn't even try to turn over.
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Started truck, used windshield washer and noticed High Beam Indicator was lit on dash. Headlight switch not on. Drove to Ford dealer, turned off truck, high beams would not shut off. Dealer replaced the Turn Signal/wiper/High beam switch assembly. Dealer had one in stock. Service manager said they have replaced a few of these Switches. So if your High Beams come on without the headlight switch on you cannot turn them off even if you shut off and exit truck. Also the "You left your lights on warning chime" does not sound when you exit truck.
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The truck was running fine then I shut it off one day and it wouldn't start back up long powerful cranks but wouldn't start pulled the valve covers checked branch tubes and dummy plugs all looked good (not for sure though) replaced the icp and even tried unplugging it after the hot crank no start to see if that worked because that was the only a code I threw but alas it did not work.
I did a air test and closed the IPR valve via fancy tool and was getting some minor gurgling out of the oil filter resivuar and was guided to change the hpop being that was the beloved issue I couldn't get the j-tube out to inspect but everything else was clean as a whistle ... I was getting some air flow threw the oil filler cap and the air intake box on the driver's side valve cover but was told that is normal but not sure how normal when I replaced hpop it appears it stopped gurgling as much.
When I did the following air test but it started when cold but then it struggled but it did start then my batteries died out turns out I do have a bad negative connection I getting the batteries re charged gonna pick them up today and tighten that connection along with a new air filter via reading in the hanes manual that can sometimes cause a hot crank no start .
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New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
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I have a 2004 6liter. I parked one day two weeks ago and a went out last week to move it and I will only crank over. No fire No start!!!! Have new batteries. New fuel filter and have fuel coming in to the fuel bowl. I have gone over the harness, checked my fuses. I do not have a reader or scanner. Any recommendations. I want more than just a code scanner.
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I was driving down the road and suddenly lost tons of acceleration power had to almost flour it to move at all so I pulled off the road to stop and check it out. After I stopped I couldn't get it to start again it would crank like it wanted to start but nothing. So I had I towed home and it sat for a little while and then I tried to crank again, and it started and idled like crap and when I pushed down on the gas pedal there was no reaction, rpms didn't go up or nothing but still would idle like crap.
Symptoms stayed the same for about a day and no I have a crank no start. So then I did what little I could do just to see if it was an easy fix I changed the ICP sensor, IPR sensor, and EGR valve needed to be replaced so I replaced that too. Headstuds and gaskets have been done as well by previous owner but not I think it might be an HPOP problem? I am unable to read codes at the moment as well just FYI. Could this be a fuel filter issue even tho the secondary housing fills with diesel?
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ok, so after all the work done (headgaskets, head bolts, egr valve, ipr valve, egr cooler, oil cooler, blue spring kit, new ficm injector harness connectors), this is what I'm left with on start up. I am now getting no SYNC -0
I had ficm sync before i changed the connectors on the injector harness (last thing i did besides blue spring kit). Has this motor turn this way? And my glow plug light now comes on during and post crank along with a weird fuel light with 3 teardrops I've never seen before. I need to check this out.
48.0 ficm KOEO, 48.3 crank
IPC 3 KOEO, 1100 crank
IPR 14.1 KOEO, 46 crank
IPC volt .23 KOEO, 1.23 crank
Passed bubble test
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2003 6.0, all stock. Crank, no start with an occasional sputter when it actually shows FICM SYNC = YES.
It had the following relevant DTCs when I scanned it:
P0261, P0270, P0276 and P0279 - Cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7 - Injector circuit low
P132B - Turbocharger/Supercharger boost control A performance
P2614 - CMP Open circuit
P2617 - CKP Open circuit
CMP/CKP SYNC transitions to and maintains YES while cranking, however FICM SYNC transitions back and forth between YES and NO while cranking. When it transitions to YES, a cylinder or two will fire when FIPW comes up, but FICM SYNC almost immediately transitions back to NO.
Based solely on the scan tool results, Cranking shows IPR DC at about 50%, ICP PSI ~1500, ICP V ~2.0. These are stable and steady. FICM main power is at 49.5v and drops to 49.0 when it fires the occasional injector while cranking. RPM reads above 150 while cranking.
I'm thinking that since CMP/CKP SYNC stays YES and is stable and RPM reading is consistent, the CMP & CKP sensors and circuits are most likely good. I'm thinking with the codes for injectors 1, 4, 6 and 7 it probably points more toward a FICM issue.
Another thing that may or may not be relevant is the pre-cycle clatter sounds off to me. With an ambient temp of about 70F, the pre-cycle seems to repeat 3 times. The second and third cycles sound worse than the first. This is in the video below.
I work on far more 7.3s than I do 6.0s, so I'm looking for anything I may have overlooked, a second/third/fourth opinion, or if there's a flaw in my logic for someone to point it out.
6.0 No Start - YouTube
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Brother in law company 6.0 died on him in his driveway after a night of plowing
It stalled out, his boss sent out a "tech" and he said it doesn't have "nearly enough" oil pressure
Now I want to further diagnose the truck myself with my scan gauge II but haven't used it for that......yet......
What should I check for IPR pressure psi or %?
I know I can get ICP pressure in PSI on my SCT x4 not sure about the Scan Gauge......
I assume a blown IPR or failed STC fitting......
Truck is a 2005..... I can figure out the scan gauge I just need to know what to look for for an idea of a blown IPR or STC or ICP.
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05 6.0 will only start if I cycle the glow plugs, crank 3 seconds shut off glow again then it starts immediately. If I try to glow 2 cycles with out cranking it won't start either. When he truck is hot it seams to start easier. I have new batteries new alternator running 5-40 synth. New glow plug control module. It does it hot or cold weather.
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