Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Muffled Pop Sound - Intercooler Boot Failure
Jun 8, 2014
I was pulling our 14k fiver home after a weekend at the lake and I heard a muffled pop sound. About a minute prior I had checked the gauges and everything was normal. It honestly sounded like a chinabomb tire on the ttrailer had popped. Puled over and all tires were good so I popped the hood .....
Here's the bottom half. Is this possibly a warranty item? 2011 with 61k. And no mods. Plus a lot of oil on everything is that normal?
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just installed all my intercooler boots with plenum inserts. Had a torque wrench set at around 14 lb/ft and all of a sudden POP! the inside of nut on clamp stripped out. of course its on the boot going to the plenum. Any one have this happen? Brand new clamps from riff raff. Am I cranking to hard, maybe torque wrench isnt accurate, i don't know but didn't seem like i was getting on it enough to do that. the threads came out on the bolt looking like a heli coil. not to cool. Google it and another forum popped up , everyone was saying to crank em down. apparently you cant do that , not even 14 lb/ft. Anyways went to hd and threaded the bolt into their thread gauge. the only one that seemed to fit was 1/4-28 fine thread( which they don't carry in a nylon thread lock nut). Is this the correct size? How to gauge how tight to tighten the nut?
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I didn't realize the 6.7 had two places that you need to monitor your coolant level. I've kept an eye on my coolant reservoir for the rad due to radiator failures reported but just today noticed there was another one for the intercooler. Mine was quite low. I'm sure most of you knew it was there but for those that didn't, keep that baby topped up I can't imagine having a hot intercooler is good.
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2011 6.7 F350 .... 120,000 miles ....I have been smelling anti-freeze for the last couple of months but have been unable to find a leak. Going through a minor amount of fluid but no indication on the ground ...
Searching deeper today I see the bottom of my intercooler is wet - remove the air hose and there is some fluid. I am assuming there is NOT supposed to be fluid in the air intake hose - correct?!?!
Any thoughts or history on these intercoolers letting-go and leaking internally?
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I've been having transmission fluid leak from my truck for a while now. Very slow leak. At first I thought it was a hard line and replaced it but it was still leaking. Then I think I found where it was coming from. It looks to be fluid dripping on the bottom of both sides of my intercooler? On both identical spots. I am guessing perhaps I had a crack on my transmission oil cooler and driving blew it into the fins of my intercooler. I took my old one off and couldn't visibly see one. I have a brand new trans cooler installed now. Haven't drove yet as I am waiting on brake parts? I couldn't think of anything else on why it would leak off the intercooler?
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2005 6.0 SuperDuty ... I was driving my truck on the freeway, no issues. Started hearing a very faint ticking sound, then the engine died. Pulled off to the side. tried to start it, and it turned over very rapidly, with no compression. I'm thinking "Timing Gear".
Had it towed to a Ford dealership near the incident. I told them what i thought it may be, and the mechanic thought it "May be possible". not very confidently....
I authorized them to remove the engine, and look. Sure enough, the gears were toast. This is the difficult part.
The service manager is a young kid, (I can tell from talking to him a hundred times on the phone), and is telling me "My Cam(s) are ruined, and the valves are bent, because the metal from the gears went through the motor. I told him to stop. put the truck outside, and wait. So, I have a couple of questions. other than i don't have Cam(s).
1. Is the 6.0 a clearance type motor? (will the valves impact the pistons, if the timing gears fail).
2. Will the metal from the timing gears get into the motor, or fall into the oil pan?
There were no loud noises, when the engine died. I had the engine bullet proofed at 101,000 miles, it now has 250,000. The truck is still solid, so worth fixing?
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My friend is working on a 2004 6.0 F-250 and it has used 75% of the coolant in the overflow bottle in 5 days. Can't smell coolant either. The inside of the tailpipe is wet soot black and there are wet spots on the tube coming from the intercooler to the turbo at the turbo and the intercooler. He's thinking EGR cooler.
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How to get the boot or hose off the egr delete tube without having to tear everything apart? mines leaking i have new hose to replace just not sure how to get the old one off...
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I have coolant leaking from under my degas bottle. There was a spot on the driveway this morning and upon investigation, I saw a drip hanging from the bottom of the degas. No liquid on top at all. Where this is coming from? Bottom hose?
Also, the boot that connects the tube (right side while looking at front of truck) to the elbow that goes into the intake is leaking oil and making a mess. Whats the best way to fix? Remove boot, clean up, and put back on? Or replace boot? If replace, where can I get that boot?
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My truck had to be towed to the shop today. The wife and I were stranded for 2 hours and to say I was upset is a understatement. My truck has 13,800 miles and this type of failure is unacceptable. Is it necessary to carry extra sensors around in order to get your truck off the side of the road? BTW, my truck didn't even make it to the side of the road, we had to push it to a narrow shoulder on a busy side road.
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Had CEL light and took truck to dealer and they replaced Bank 1 sensor 4, two days later, CEL again Bank 1 sensor 3.
I've trouble shot many EGT sensors on Airplanes, and we could tell if there was a failure coming if a couple failed by testing the sensors themselves. My Service Manager told me there is no way they can check the others out. That sounds like Bull to me.
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So I have a 2006 Ford F-250 6.0 that broke down about 2 months ago due to an EGR failure. Took it to the dealership got it fixed along with a new injector everything has been running fine only thing I notice is a big split in EOT and fW(218 EOT and 192 fWT). Well yesterday on the way home my wrench light comes on I tried to scan it with the scan gauge but it said no codes found and when I got home and turned the truck off and back on the light went off. What could cause this?
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I'm at 76K miles and I had another exhaust sensor go bad. This time the check engine light came on and the truck did not shut down. I was prepared this time and had an extra sensor / code reader handy.
It was the last sensor in line and very easy to get to. It took me less than five minutes to complete the job. I did use anti seize, but as easy as it came out it probably wasn't necessary.
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I only get random TPS failure messages when I am hauling my cab over camper and towing a horse trailer. Other than Murphy's law which dictates that these type of events only happen at the worst times (fully loaded w/ kids, dogs, horses, steep grades, no shoulder, 110+ temps, etc) I figure that the big metal box is disrupting the TPS signal reception. Not sure where the antenna is for the TPS system. I stop and check pressure/temperature just in case but all is well. My Lance has a sheet metal skin and blocks satellite completely and terrestrial radio somewhat, which I don't use anyway.
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Having issues with the instrument cluster and lost communication trouble codes. My truck has been having issues and it loses comm with all the modules. All the warming lights the truck has come up on the LED screen in the dash and if I turn it off it will not start. Most recently my traction control light stays on and my tranny is locked into 5th gear. I have park, reverse & 5th gear. Most recent DTC's are lost come with TCM & ABS control module. It seems to be getting more consistent but was very intermittent. Spent a week at ford with no progress. Truck wont start for a full day and then will start the next morning? When its bugging out it wont even prime the fuel system of turn over. Cab was off last fall to install SPE diesel STG 2 short block, Industrial compound turbo kit & water/meth kit. truck has been amazing and insane power until recent electrical/computer issues. When truck is bugging out tuner will not communicate with the truck and cannot read codes or remove programmer.
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Early 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
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So I am happily driving my 2011 F250 Powerstroke and the water in fuel light comes on. I drain the filter and drive about 10 miles and it happens again. Drain again and 5 miles later the engine dies. Had it towed to my dealer who found an exploded high pressure diesel injection pump. They talked to Ford and found out that they needed to install an all new fuel system from the injectors to the tank! The bill was 18,000 and no warrantee. Bad stuff gets right by the filters!!! I have two of those trucks and since the dealer used exactly the same parts as the broken ones, it can happen today again.
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Started truck, used windshield washer and noticed High Beam Indicator was lit on dash. Headlight switch not on. Drove to Ford dealer, turned off truck, high beams would not shut off. Dealer replaced the Turn Signal/wiper/High beam switch assembly. Dealer had one in stock. Service manager said they have replaced a few of these Switches. So if your High Beams come on without the headlight switch on you cannot turn them off even if you shut off and exit truck. Also the "You left your lights on warning chime" does not sound when you exit truck.
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My friend has a 2006 6.0. Blew up the egr cooler and oil cooler and now the oil is full of coolant. Brown muddy messy muck. Oil cooler is out but I'm sure the coolant oil mixture has circulated so it's probably in the HPOP and the rails to the injectors and probably in the injectors too. Everything after the oil cooler is probably contaminated.
So, aside from draining the oil from the pan and sucking up the oil mix from the top of the block, (under the cooler. ..it's out but not the hpop) how do we get this flushed out without destroying anything else?
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My hpfp just blew up 2 weeks ago. I'm still waiting to hear if my ford extended warentee will pay for it. What was weird for me was I had a p0087 code thrown about an hour before the p21b0 code. I had a 5sec warning of reduce power, then pull over now message, then it died before I could get over. All service down by ford, 48k miles on my 2011. I'm not happy that the truck left me on the side of the road with the 5th wheel in tow. Having a second failure? Not sure if I want to keep the truck now or not. Sounds like even the newer trucks are failing as well. I would have thought they would have this fixed by now.
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3 and I had started to notice I wasn't making as much boost I thought I should have been. I looked around and found a tear in the cold side CAC boot. My question is what is the best option for replacing it, something like RiffRaff or oem? Also should I look at replacing all the boots or just the two up top?
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