Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Metal Particles In Antifreeze
May 3, 2016
I have a 2011 Ford F-350 with 6.7L I have had cooling issues when pulling a trailer up a grade it heats up where it hadn't in the past. I had it in the shop 4 times before it went out of warranty and they changed the oil cooler and thermostat. The last time it was in the shop was November which it was to cold out to duplicate problem. It's heating up on just about every grade and now it's out of warranty when it should have been fixed last year.
I'm guessing it's the water pump because when I changed the antifreeze there was metal shavings in it. I told my dealer about it and they said it was probably from manufacturing. I haven't called dealer yet because I think it should be covered under warranty since the problem was never fixed after being in the shop last year!
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This is my first personal diesel so first one I've done maintenance on.
Bought the truck with almost 15k miles, it now has just over 16k and I changed the filters when I noticed the underhood filter was the original 3 port style.
There were some very small particles in the DFCM. Maybe dirt from dirty fuel nozzles?
Guessing this is nothing to be worried about?
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I changed the fuel filters today and saw a couple of small pieces of what looked like aluminum or aluminum foil in the bottom. Nothing in the filter itself it still looked good. I will try to post pictures later but I'm not sure it will show up. I don't recall seeing anything the first filter change and this is the second. Is this normal?
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Getting the RV ready to go for the summer, and no a/c. I started to add freon, and found the leak right away.
It's on the 3/4" pipe that goes right over the upper radiator hose; obviously rubbing metal to metal caused the pinhole. Now I know where that mystery green snot came from all over my radiator hose coming back from Yellowstone last fall.
First thought was to replace the entire pipe. There's an easy threaded connector on the upper end, but way down on the compressor is a strange fitting that looks like a triangle stuck against a cube. I can't see how I'd get a wrench in there very easy anyway. What is that fitting?
I bought a Dorman 3/4" repair kit, but until it arrives in the mail I don't know if I've got enough straight pipe to work with. Do I need to add oil as well as freon once I charge the system again?
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I've had transmission issues with my truck that the dealers can't seem to duplicate. The truck makes a metal on metal screech when downshifting from 5th to 4th and 4th to 3rd on occasion. The two dealers claim they cannot duplicate the issue and there's no CEL so there's nothing they can do. The shifting is also super slow between gears and regularly hangs in 4th until I let off the pedal for a good two or three seconds. All gear changes are slow.
Now the truck is exhibiting a new issue. When coming to a stop, a second after stopping the truck faintly jerks forward. Almost like the torque converter is not fully unlocked.
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Well, today I was checking the oil in my 1989 Ford Aerostar and noticed that there was more than just oil on my dipstick! I noticed a few small little metal shavings on the dipstick! They looked kinda like tiny pieces of hair, and there were only a few. What this means? I don't hear any noise from the engine (but then again I usually drive with loud music so I may be missing something). I have been trying to listen to the engine recently though. The vehicle seems to drive good, no overheating. The oil itself is quite black, in fact it looks like chocolate syrup.
No doubt the engine could use an oil change, which I'll be doing as soon as I get my paycheck. When I bought the vehicle it needed a quart of oil (which I added) but I've been driving it quite a lot since then and it hasn't been loosing oil. But now I'm worried about these shavings. Has my engine seen better days or is this just normal tear on an engine this old. I'm not sure how many miles are on the vehicle, odometer says it has just slightly over 3000 miles, but its one of these old 5 digit odometers so I have no idea if that's 103000, 203000 or 303000.
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I have an 2007 6.0 turbo diesel with approximately 120,000 miles. I have not done any work on the truck other than change the oil and fuel filters the last 9 years. Lately the check engine light came on and every now and then I can smell antifreeze in the air vents coming out. What may be causing this? I am looking to upgrade for more power and do a few things to the engine to make it bulletproof. I have heard something about and EGR bypass or something that I need to do. Not sure I fully understand it and what does it fix or what it will cost me. I have also heard something about head gaskets and head bolts. I may do the work myself if its not too complicated. What all needs to be done on this engine to make sure it stays strong for years to come. What is the best engine tuner/chip for more power?
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I changed my oil and found some metal particles in there... not a whole lot, but if you look at the oil pan in the sun you can definitely see a "glittery" effect... the particles are nowhere near big enough to be able to feel in your finger, but you can see them....
I have already dropped the oil pan and inspected the crank bearings... they all look good.. I did not remove the rod caps, I didn't want to dig into it too far, but now I am at a point where I am thinking.. maybe I should tear it all down and find the source..
I need a new clutch, not sure why the clutch didnt last more than 9000 miles, but I was told it should be covered.. And with that.. since I need to drop the trans anyhow.. and I need to find the source of metal... Maybe I should just remove the entire engine/trans together and make one big job out of it??
I really am hoping it's the turbo putting metal into the oil since that is the newest unit of the system.. and it would be covered under warranty as well.. Tough decision really.. I admit the 3.2 VR6 is a bit overwhelming when it comes to disassembly.. not to mention all the fasteners that need to be replaced...
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I may have got a few shavings in the engine while drilling and tapping a hole for my boost gauge on the Y pipe. I am sure I got 95% of the shavings out but am now worried about the 5% that may have fell inside.
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I have a 2006 250 ford, just put new head gasket with head studs, new oil cooler, deleted the egr by welding it, ran good for hundred miles but flushed it out and filled it with antifreeze and now it's steaming, sometimes it will do it and sometimes it won't and I can't figure it out.
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2011 ford f350, 200,000 miles. I was getting an antifreeze spray on the windshield while pulling and going up a hill. It was from exhaust pressure going into the coolant system. It was building over 16 psi and blowing out the degas bottle.
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2011 Super Duty, SB, 6.7, Lariat, SuperCab, FX4 Undercover hard bed cover, Ford bed mat, and mud flaps.Traded a 2003 Expedition with 100k miles on it. It was time for a new tow vehicle, I tow a 30 foot travel trailer.(7000 to 8000lbs) The dealer offered me a deal at invoice plus all of Ford's incentives, so I couldn't refuse.
I have about 1300 miles on it and it runs fine. I have been noticing a wet spot under the right front of the truck, checking today it looks like anti freeze leaking from above the air condition pump. It makes about a 3 inch diameter wet spot, the fluid recovery bottles are still at the correct cold coolant level. I couldn't get my hand in that space to find where it is leaking from.
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So about a week ago I noticed that my 2006 6.0 with 240k miles smelled like antifreeze. I popped the hood and noticed my dega tank was empty. I added coolant to halfway between max and min. A couple days later discovered coolant had dropped to just below min fill. Went to start it this morning and the starter won't engage the flywheel. I hear the relay click and the starter is making a whirling noise. I figure I will try to manually crank it to check if it's the fly wheel. If it's not that I guess I will take the starter to get tested. And if that's not it.. I guess a mechanic.
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Had my oil changed on my 2011 F350, and the tech said that I lost one gallon of antifreeze coolant. Where could the coolant have gone? We could not find a radiator or hose leak. I am afraid that the coolant somehow got into the engine oil, and may have damaged the engine. I have 46000 miles on the truck.
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While I was changing the oil yesterday, I also changed the fuel filters. The primary filter had some debris that was confirmed by a magnet to be metal. I have seen a little bit of this all three times I have changed the filters. The filter itself is very clean, but there remains a small amount of metal slightly more coarse than filings.
I don't really have any concerns that it could be coming from the HPFP because that is after the secondary filter and would not be returned to the tank. Also anything from the HPFP would have fouled several injectors by now. I don't even think there is any iron in the pump.
I guess it could be useful to put a magnet in the water separator reservoir, but I don't even know what good that would do since the debris is large enough that it is being caught by the filter and of course the secondary filter is even less microns. It would just be nice to know where in the world this stuff comes from.
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I found 2 Ford OEM part numbers for what seems to be the same identical metal CAC Tube for the drivers side.
6C3Z-6C640-AA
and
6C3Z-6C646-BA
I wanted to place an order today for my '06 but want to make sure it's the right one. What is going on here? (maybe one is for a '03-04) I Don't know...
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Changed my filters and this was in the bottom of the filter housing. I looked on the pleats and down in the center didn't find anything. Went to two Ford diesel techs one said is was the hpfp and should do the the whole fuel system. The other said if the hpfp was coming apart the shaving would not be in the bottom of bowl and to check the filter again in 5k miles. No check engine light, drives great, no other problems.
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Are you supposed to reuse the old metal gasket or leave it out?
2006 F350 4X4
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2006 overheats and starts blowing white smoke, smells like antifreeze, added 2 gals of water to make it 1 mile home. Smokes on the way @195 temp and when I shut it off it smokes out tailpipe for another 3 min. Smells like the head gaskets just went, what should I check? The eot and ect have been 10 deg or less.
This has 225,000 miles on it ran great before this, so would it be stupid too not get a redone set of heads while I'm doing the gaskets and studs?
I was thinking of getting heads from here, UCF Machine Shop - Precision machining, engine rebuilding and more. Cummins + Ford Rebuild Specialist. And a Sinister Diesel Complete Solution For Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L. Are these the right places to deal with or should I look elsewhere?
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Just bought a used 2011 ford f350 with the 6.7 diesel engine. Coming from a 7.3 1999 f350 with 330,000 miles, still going good. Took a 1000 mile trip on the 11 truck with out pulling anything did good. Hooked my enclosed trailer to it did a trip of 900 down and 900 back. Transmission temps were staying around the 250f, almost in yellow on gauge. Highest it went was 255f. Light never came on. Yesterday on trip without trailer was staying at 230f on trans temp. This is the first concern.
Second concern, had antifreeze coming out the cap on the degas bottle. Rolled over the hood and hit the drivers side windshield. Stopped un did the cap, it hissed. Put 2 quarts of antifreeze in drove on, this at 300 miles of trip. Primary water pump went out, half way there, at about 550 miles of trip. On trip back, about 1600 miles of trip, antifreeze was on windshield again. Undid cap, hissed, did not need to add any to it. Drove on no problems since. Have bought a new cap and installed.
Transmission doesn't want to shift right when its cold. First starting out. When it warms up shifts great. That's third problem.
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I have a 2016 F350 disel with 2500 miles. It's at the dealer now they are telling me some metal shavings clogged one of the injectors. What should I be looking for?
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