Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Max Speed On Interstate In 4 High
Jan 7, 2014
I have a 2012 F350 I keep the hubs in auto all the time. In the winter I just flip the switch to 4 high when I hit snow conditions. I know to shift in or out I need to be below 55mph. How fast can I safely drive in 4 high on the interstate? I drive hundreds of miles at a time in the winter. Some times if the roads clear I will cruise at 70-80mph. This is a question of mechanical safety on truck components not driving safety.
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While I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
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I get what I can only describe as a "missing" when Im on the interstate just cruising along with rpms below say around 1900. That seems to be when I have noticed it. It is not very frequent but often enough to not let me forget about it. Happens when I'm towing it seems more than when not. Seems the rpms have to be below 18-1900 and in 5th speed. You can just feel the truck ever so slightly missing like in the old days of points and distributor caps. No tunes
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2013 CCLB, 33,500 miles, stock emissions
While towing a 9000 pound trailer at interstate speeds (75 to 80 in Wyoming), when pulling a hill, the truck downshifts to 4th gear, boost is about 18psi, eng and transmission temps in the 230F range, EGTs around 500C or 935F. RPM increases normally to 3000 then the turbo gets very loud and boost drops to about 10psi. The truck shifts to 5th gear, noise decreases but is still present, shifts to 6th and noise goes to normal after a couple seconds and boost builds normally.
This just started today. I have about 8000 miles towing this trailer and never had this before. I have about 350 miles until I'm home so I'm headed back out. Will play around with manual mode and see what it does. I also took a video of the gauges while this happens. Audio is difficult to discern. I will try to get better audio and post when I get home.
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I have an 03 Excursion with 220,000 on the clock. Started getting harder starts randomly about a month ago, maybe a little more, pulled codes got p2290. Reset everything, changed the oil, oil filter, both fuel filters, eventually the ICP sensor itself and rebuilt the IPR with new screen kit and rings. Hard start went away for about a week but ICP pressure was dropping drastically during hard throttle or even trying to go up a good sized hill. I had a bypass oil filtration kit on and noticed that the connection on top of the oil filter housing was weeping at idle and leaking enough at throttle to possibly cause an issue. Replaced with new OEM filter cap and fill cap, and ended up with a no start and low ICP pressure.
Got it started today after a long crank (15+ seconds), ICP and IPR at idle both warm and cold are mid 600's and low 20's (I can get actuals if needed). After reaching operating temp starts fine after shut off (both immediate and after sitting for 20 minutes). I picked up a selection of parts and tools including an ICP air test tool. Also grabbed a hpop gasket kit and the updated O-rings for the whole system. Live scanning wise I have an Edge CTS and also an SCT x4 that I can use.
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My f350 6.0 has seem to have lost its power, while I was driving home it would only accelerate at one constant speed, and driving up hill it would not accelerate at all, I also noticed an elevated exhaust temperature.. There are no warning lights or dash lights indicating any problem.....
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Saturday while moving some items for the inlaws my truck, while moving at slow speed, reduced power to the point where it almost stalled, anti lock brakes were growling, right rear tire was dragging the brakes skidding the tire. maybe ten seconds then ran normal. got to stop sign and made a right turn and at about 30 mph started doing the same on and off for maybe 30 seconds. All the time Advance Track light blinking 3 times then pause, and repeating.
Stopped in a parking lot for a couple mins, did not shut off but drove the rest of the way home normally. At home we could smell brakes cooking, right rear brake disk was very hot. Drove to dealer Sunday morn with Advance Track over-ridden and ran normal. What would happen at highway speeds or towing my fiver? Bet they cant reproduce the prob, left no code etc. You know what that means.... I will update later.
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My husband is on the interstate on his way home from work. His brakes went out, completely!!! No e-brake either! he replaced master cylinder about a month ago, brakes worked ok for about a week and started messing up again. Now he has no brakes what-so-ever... is there anything he can do to get home safely? I believe he has hydroboost unit.. he mentioned before a tiny leak from ps pump... brake pedal goes all the way to floor... no stopping..
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When I turn on my fan for the AC or vent or heat, it works just fine on the first and second settings. When I move the fan speed to the third and last speed, I hear this sound that sounds like the blower fan is hitting something. I turn the speed back to the lower two settings and noise goes away. Sometimes I turn it back to the higher settings and the noise actually will go away but most of the time the noise is there.
I pulled the blower motor out yesterday and set it to where I can turn it on while out of the compartment and I didn't really notice a noise. I wonder if the noise is there but I am just not hearing it since it is not enclosed in the compartment? I also noticed there is a crack in the fan where it mounts to the shaft starting at the shaft and extending out one direction and also 180 degrees the other direction. Thoughts on if the motor is bad or just the fan? Or even something else that I may not be seeing?
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I believe I am having spooling issues with my 2000 f250 7.3 automatic truck. I now am running a 67mm billet compressor wheel with a 1.00ar turbine housing and high flow outlet so basically a thrust bearing 38r . I'm running oem sticks and PHP tunes on my hydra. On the 140 tune egts top out at 1200* uphill. So egts are not a problem. Boost tops out at 29-30 psi and 1-3 down the interstate. I see a lot of trucks that can hit 20+ psi in second by just squashing the skinny petal and I could also do this with my oem turbo. Mine takes awhile to get psi up like I said it will hit 30 if I'm petal to the carpet for a few and get going but I feel like it's not spooling as quickly as it "should ".
I completely built this turbo with new parts nothing was reused down to the heat shield behind the turbine wheel inside the turbine housing. I used all American And Canadian built parts . 360 thrust and a banks 1.00 turbine housing. When I bought the turbine shaft and compressor wheel it stated that they where pre balanced and I could clearly see the balancing marks on both but the shaft and compressor wheel are from two different manufacturers so there was no way to be sure that everything would align and be balanced. Basically my question is do you think it would to be wise to have the assembly balanced? Could this be the reason the turbo doesn't spool as fast as my oem gtp38 did . I've been running the turbo for four months now .
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My 7.3 will cough randomly on the interstate not towing or anything. It has a new turbo and filters...
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2011 6.7 with 3.55 gearing. Just got the truck. And it seems when its cold the truck will rev high in 3rd gear and then sort of fall into 4th gear sort of losing power for a split second. If I gas it hard, its not as bad. Usually only happens like I said when its cold. Check the trans fluid its full and looks clean. My guess is some sort of sensor or the computer???
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What makes a 6.0 or 7.3 "clack"? I am not experienced enough with internals of a diesel to understand it.
Reason I ask, is my 6.0 is clackier than ANY other 6.0 or 7.3 that I have encountered. I mean it really cackles. Injector timing?
the engine was "bulletproofed" and (as the seller stated to me) was "flashed with a custom designed tune made by a Powerstroke specialist"... to which I have no further information on. This I assume was done for longevity and not performance.
Its quiet on the highway, but in town and stop-starts or low-speed acceleration it is crazy crackly.
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I was taking a trip the other day and needed to pass some slow traffic and found that the engine quit making power at around 95 mph. From 45 to 95 comes fast. Not good to have power stop when passing.
I know it is not safe to be driving our trucks at around 100 mph, but for a short burst to pass traffic, it is more dangerous to have the engine quit making power while you are trying to pass.
We purchased our truck new in 2012 so since I just found out about the problem, I have not had the truck up to 95 before now.
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So my fan speed sensor popped up on Torque. I almost never hear the engine fan in the first place. But once in a while I do. I've only ever heard it when I'm laden with enough weight to really strain the engine. It sounds like a freight train when it does kick on. Should I be worried? I've done the EGR delete. New oil cooler. 4" straight pipe from turbo to just behind the cab. 130k on the works. 6spd manual.
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I know they're supposed to be within 15 deg of each other. How bad is this? Pulling a small trailer with a polaris rzr on it. Running 75mph
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I have a 2001 F350 Dually 7.3 w/260K miles. Hard starting, it has to be plugged in all the time. Occasionally/most of the time, blows white smoke at 50 to 60 mph or at high rpm. Replaced TPS and now runs totally different on starting, still hard to start but better throttle response on starting. Once started, I have to pedal it to keep it running, which seems to have little response as it would as if it was a direct throttle linkage attached to a carburetor...follow me? After a while, it will idle by itself. However, it still has flat spots when out of idle and at high rpm. Has gotten to the point that I can't trust to drive it.
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I've been getting a surge or revs when getting up to cruising speed before it drops into overdrive or or a constant speed. Happens around 1800-2200 rpm before up shifting to the next gear. More noticeable if under a load or going up a grade when it will hold gear longer before shifting. Only thing I can think of that would be related is the truck does lack some power on a cold start for the first couple miles before getting up to temp. I've cleaned the ebp sensor and it appears to be working correctly, reading within .1-.2 of BAR/MAP key one engine off. VGT solenoid is clean but have no real way to tell if it's working correctly. Other values icp/ipr temps fluid levels appear to be correct. Just changed the oil and it continues, changed the transmission oil and filter about 3000 miles ago. I've had this going on for about 1000. Started about the same time I changed tunes to PHP. They haven't been able to find anything in the tuning yet that could be causing this or if it is just making it show up now.
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I have an oscillation in the steering wheel at speed in a turn. Feels like the pump is trying to straighten the wheel then gives up then trys again then gives up etc etc..... The oscillation is slow so its not like the wheel is shaking or about to fall off. The faster you go the more pronounced it is the tighter the turn the more pronounced it is. Doesnt matter left or right. Seems like its there at any speed but just gets worse the faster you go.
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While driving I went to speed up and heard a bang. I lost all drive. I have no movement in any gear. I got the truck home and looked around. Trans fluid looked and smelled ok. I couldn't move the rear drive shaft by hand with engine in neutral. I drained the transfer case and that fluid looked fine also. What it could be or what else to look for. The truck is a 2006 f350 with 6.0 and 185,000 miles. Up to this point I had no trans issues.
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I've been searching and searching but I just cant find out the location of the Transmission Speed sensor, It would be the one that controls your speedo and Transmission pressure? Is it located on top of the rear differential?
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