Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Lower Knee Panel Removal Under The Steering Wheel
Jul 11, 2015
I know that to remove the lower knee panel under the steering wheel all that has to be done is to pull it off and the attachment snaps will pop free. However, How do I go about removal of the dash panel to the left of the steering wheel? This would be the narrow panel that also houses an ac vent, headlight and I believe it is the adjustable pedal control.
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So I have a 1999.5 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again. Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again.
I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal? The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
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Having searched I believe that I need to remove two torx screws from the back of the wheel to remove the air bag. These have that damned protrusion in the middle so I'll have to find and buy a torx driver just for that job. What size is it?
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Trying to replace my steering stabilizer and in the process I broke the nut close to the steering box. Would not budge so used a bar and well I broke it. Now I can't pop it out am I doing something wrong? Here are a few pics. I'm totally bummed nothing seems to be working for me.
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Was on the way home today and was taking a long sweeping left-hand curve at 60 and got a horrible shake in the steering wheel. Kinda scared me a bit and let out of the throttle a bit. Didn't happen after and never has before. I'm under the impression it is more shocks maybe then steering, Reason I say that although I don't get a lot of bounce if the road isn't perfectly smooth I can really tell it. What do ya'll think?
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I've got a 'new to me' 4" Lift 6.0L PSD Diesel, 2005. At 60 mph, especially 75 mph, there's some 'play' or float feeling in the steering wheel. Is that a normal thing for a 4" lift? and nothing to worry about? (the dealer that sold it said they put new ball joints in it. No cheap shock problem, right?)
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I have a 2015 Platinum Superduty that came with a heated steering wheel but cannot figure how to turn it on and off. I have looked for a dash switch and in the climate portion of the touch screen with no luck. My wife's car has a simple dash mounted switch and also a temp sensor that cuts it on automatically when cold. No such luck with truck.
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Trying to remove all the lower trim on the dashboard. Have everything but the lower right portion on the drivers side. The carbon trim on there seems to be tucked under the upper part of the dashboard itself and I can't remove it. I assume there is one final screw under there?
I can pop it loose a bit on the left corner but feel if I force that trim something is going to break.
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Replacing Steering Wheel position sensor. How hard of job is it?
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Looking to swap out the vinyl wheel with a leather-wrapped one from a Lariat. I assume that this will be a direct swap but wanted to poll the audience to make sure I'm not overlooking anything.
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2013 F250 with 36K miles. Just in the past 2 months I've noticed my steering wheel is disintegrating at about the 12:30 position. No possibility of diesel/chemical transfer to the surface.
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I have been ignoring a slight aggravating shake in the steering wheel for quite some time. I just assumed tire out of balance or slightly warped front rotor or some ball joint work due to approaching 80,000 miles. Well the slightly warped rotor became much worse so i dove into the front brakes. Long story short it ended up being the rear brake rotor/caliper sticking transferring the vibration to the steering wheel. With two other vehicles to maintain i missed/neglected the rear hardware on the truck. So keep the rear brake hardware on your radar for a front end shimmy. Its gone now and a pleasure to drive again. I do have the crew cab and 8' bed which gives the rear end a long lever.
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I have an 04 6.0 psd and if I am stopped in drive with the brake pedal down I can't turn my steering wheel at all. If the truck is in park and my foot off the brake pedal I can turn the steering wheel both ways just fine. When I am driving I don't have any problems with the steering. I have checked the power steering fluid and it is full. This makes it kind of hard when I am trying to pull in and out of parking spots. What could be causing this and what the solution would be to fix it?
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This may sound petty, but I would like to have the radio controls on the left side of the steering wheel of my 2012, instead of the cruise control. I guess the main question is how the wire harness is set up. Do the wiring can be re-routed to accommodate the switch?
Also, I want to smooth out the ride a tad so as to lessen the amount of griping from from the passenger seat. What is acceptable in lowering the tire pressure to allow a better ride without compromising tire wear? The factory specs are 65 psi. My truck is a 2012 fx4 Lariat with the 6.7
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I have an 8 inch lift with 37x13.5 inch tires and dual front steering stabilizers. when I'm stopped I can barely turn the wheel. my buddy has a 6 inch lifted excursion with 35 inch tires in his is easy, one hand no problem. Would the difference in tire size really make that big of a difference or am I having a steering pump issue?
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Issues with your sync/radio that in the lower right corner it says to "connection error-see delear"?
My controls on my steering wheel will no longer change the channel or adjust the volume. When it does change the channel it goes crazy and changes multiple channels.
I have also noticed my GPS arrow seems to drift off the road I'm traveling on and then will jump back to where I'm driving.
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4450 - Literature Program 09L02: Customer Maintenance Reminder
Some owners of certain F-Super Duty 250/350 4x4 vehicles have experienced severe steering and front wheel vibrations and oscillations after traveling over a bump or dip in the road. As a result of a study with NHTSA regarding shimmy, Ford sent a Customer Maintenance Reminder letter to owners back in March of 2009. In addition, Ford agreed to send reminder letter to owners.
Although there is no service action required by the dealer, customers will be informed if after setting the tire pressures on their truck to the Ford specified levels, they believe the vehicle needs additional service, to contact their local Ford dealer. Letters will be mailed starting the week of 12/09/13 and may result in increased customer service inquiries.
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For the past month or so I have had something strange going on. When driving between 65 to 70 on the highway, I've turned my steering wheel slightly to the right and if there is a cross wind or head wind there is a vibrating sound. And it does get loud. I don't really feel it in the steering wheel. Only when there is a wind. I haven't done anything new to the truck since winter.
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I have my 2005 F-250 6.0L Powerstroke. Thing is, I have this issue where when I turn the wheel at a dead stop or at low speeds. I get this weird feedback in my steering wheel of a shaky vibration, like it's skipping. And frankly, feels like the whole cab is shaking. I've replaced the power steering pump, and tightened the steering box. What could it be?
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The steering on my truck has become a little heavy after making a turn and bringing the steering wheel back to center. The steering feels heavy like I had a front tire half way down. There's a lot of drag then once on center it's gone. Could it be the beginning of the end for my ball joints?
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So I have a 1999 F350 diesel and the fuse panel under the steering wheel is acting up. I was driving my truck home the other night and I lost power and my truck shut off. I have had a problem in the past with the #30- 30 amp fuse ( controls the PCM and glow plugs from my understanding) that is under the steering wheel, I replaced the fuse and everything started working normally again.
Until the other night when my truck shut off, so I replaced the fuse the truck drove again for 20 feet died again, I was able to hold the #30 fuse and allow my truck to start up again but would eventually killed the PCM and shut off again and would not start up due to what I believe the fuse location shorting it out and killing the power to the PCM preventing me from starting it up again. I had my truck towed home and charged the battery and it started up fine the next morning. If I push on the #30 fuse my truck the shorts out and kills the power, I do not know if this is normal?
The fuse is sitting loose in the fuse holder is there anyway making it fit tighter to prevent it from being so loose? I have read every other post online about the problems and tried everything they have recommended but still can not figure out what was wrong with my truck. I disconnected the fuel filter heater, and also the wastegate solenoid to see if that would prevent the truck from shorting out if I pushed the fuse it did not work.
What the problem could be causing the #30 - 30 amp fuse to be shorting out preventing everything from working? Or how to test the fuse panel and all the relays?
View 2 Replies